DirtyComanche Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 Clean it out with brake cleaner and then acetone. Find a bolt or fitting that fits nicely in there and has a head or enough meat protruding to put a wrench/pipe mangler on, clean it up really good with sandpaper and acetone. Flux paste both sides, stick it together, then silver solder it with a propane torch. You'll either make it so you can back it out, or screw it up so bad you'll be pulling the motor for a rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertRat1991 Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 4 hours ago, Swampy said: Its frustrating because I can't get it out and I feel like I have tried everything Have you fubar'd it worse than before? Post a picture of the current situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 FWIW https://www.ebay.com/itm/282902080457?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Would definitely help him buying your used street ell fitting if he manages to extract and clear the threads of the broken original. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinkrun Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 I have had great luck with these , https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mac-Tools-screw-extractor-set-of-10-with-case/263625262128?hash=item3d614a4430:g:zVYAAOSwNhpa29db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 I would crank and possibly fire it up for a (messy) second to push out the brass bits that got in there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 22 hours ago, DirtyComanche said: Clean it out with brake cleaner and then acetone. Find a bolt or fitting that fits nicely in there and has a head or enough meat protruding to put a wrench/pipe mangler on, clean it up really good with sandpaper and acetone. Flux paste both sides, stick it together, then silver solder it with a propane torch. You'll either make it so you can back it out, or screw it up so bad you'll be pulling the motor for a rebuild. I may try this. But trying at all cost to have to pull the motor. I know if I get metal pieces in there I'm screwed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 9 hours ago, carnuck said: I would crank and possibly fire it up for a (messy) second to push out the brass bits that got in there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk This sounds like a good idea. Just for a split second. I don't want to resort to cutting out the remnants abd getting more metal in the oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 16 hours ago, HOrnbrod said: Would definitely help him buying your used street ell fitting if he manages to extract and clear the threads of the broken original. I bought a fitting at home depot brand new and it looks like the one in the link. I'm just trying to get it out with out ruining the engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 4 minutes ago, Swampy said: This sounds like a good idea. Just for a split second. I don't want to resort to cutting out the remnants abd getting more metal in the oil You can clean it out and dry it with brake clean, then stuff a foam ear plug (decidamps are my favorite ) in past the fitting, then run a vacuum cleaner on it while cutting/drilling/mangling the pieces. Just make sure you have a small pick or grabbers to pull the earplug back out after. Edit, you can also pack grease in behind it, but it will catch material... Kinda depends how much access you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 20 hours ago, DesertRat1991 said: Have you fubar'd it worse than before? Post a picture of the current situation. Current situation looks just like the previous pictures. Hasnt gotten any worse or any better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 17 hours ago, Jeep Driver said: FWIW https://www.ebay.com/itm/282902080457?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 $6? What is it made of, gold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 13 minutes ago, DirtyComanche said: You can clean it out and dry it with brake clean, then stuff a foam ear plug (decidamps are my favorite ) in past the fitting, then run a vacuum cleaner on it while cutting/drilling/mangling the pieces. Just make sure you have a small pick or grabbers to pull the earplug back out after. How would this work? Having some diificulty visualizing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 2 minutes ago, Swampy said: How would this work? Having some diificulty visualizing You use brakeclean to get the oil out, because it will catch the shavings/chips otherwise. You take a foam earplug and compress it until it's 1/100th its normal size, then ram it through the fitting so it goes past it and then expands. This will block the passage behind it from chips entering. Then you can cut away without risking contaminating the oil system. Since it's now dry you can stick the vacuum cleaner hose right by it and it will suck the pieces out instead of them being pushed in. Once you've mangled the fitting out of there, you can then vacuum it again and pull the earplug out, it will likely take any remaining chips with it since it will be tight. You can also melt the earplug out with MEK or something like that if it gets stuck. Like I said, filling it with grease works too, then just brake clean it out after and try not to force any metal pieces in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 30 minutes ago, DirtyComanche said: $6? What is it made of, gold? Brassadium. Ebay and PP take 15%, I've got to print a label, put it in a box or yellow padded envelope, drag my happy-ass to the PO, pay USPS $3.50 which is the minimum First Class with tracking. In the end, I make like $4.00 for my bother. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 or... now hear me out... you wrap a ton of teflon tape around the appropriate bolt and drive it in there and pretend you never had an oil pressure gauge in the first place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 43 minutes ago, DirtyComanche said: $6? What is it made of, gold? I don't know why I feel I have to defend myself here................? I've sold quite a few parts lately, just sold my block and rods 30 minutes ago and gave the guy a crank for free. Most of what I've sold on Ebay I've accepted the offer made and did not get my asking price. A few times the shipping was over, way over, and it actually cost me money to ship the item, IOWs it cost me to sell it, I lost money. Just last week I shipped a member here something and I paid shipping and told him not to worry about it. So, Swampy, send my your addy and I'll ship to you, no cost, it's yours. PM me. Nothing is ever what it seems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 28 minutes ago, Pete M said: or... now hear me out... you wrap a ton of teflon tape around the appropriate bolt and drive it in there and pretend you never had an oil pressure gauge in the first place. Yeah, just turn the hactackery up to 11! I'm surprised you didn't suggest welding the hole shut with an old coat hanger using a couple car batteries and some jumper cables. 1 minute ago, Jeep Driver said: I don't know why I feel I have to defend myself here................? No idea, it's not like you were forcing him to buy it. I'd never have listed something like that for sale due to the effort involved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 51 minutes ago, DirtyComanche said: Yeah, just turn the hactackery up to 11! I'm surprised you didn't suggest welding the hole shut with an old coat hanger using a couple car batteries and some jumper cables. oh, that's even better! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 There's a chance someone JB'd the elbow in the block, serious about that. I'd get a buddy to run the oil pump while I drilled and tapped. Bleed out the wound to keep it clean. It would take two guys who knew what they were doing, and even then there is always a chance of contamination. I'll agree with someone above, there's a chance you may have to pull the engine and strip out the block.........might as well rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 At least it’s brass. I would heat up the fitting area (Not with a blow torch which could catch the oil on fire) and stick an “icicle” (or use freeze-off) and the reverse-out bits or square cut easy out tapped in then turned after spraying with the freeze-off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy Posted April 23, 2018 Author Share Posted April 23, 2018 17 hours ago, Pete M said: or... now hear me out... you wrap a ton of teflon tape around the appropriate bolt and drive it in there and pretend you never had an oil pressure gauge in the first place. winner winner chicken dinner. We found our solution haha. But in all seriousness, I am probably going to try the foam ear plug, or with a cotton ball and a fish hook as Walt suggested file away and take out the old fitting, and when I am done I may crank the engine to flush the passage way. I don't want to have to pull the engine as I am moving away for school july 1st. and the plan as to have the comanche done before then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy Posted April 25, 2018 Author Share Posted April 25, 2018 Got some supplies, we'll see if this works Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy Posted April 28, 2018 Author Share Posted April 28, 2018 So good news the broken fitting is out. With some help from Walt and an accidental stroke of good luck we got the fitting out. First and foremost of this happens to anyone with a 2.5l the fitting I bought from home depot fits perfect so that is a plus! Secondly the way we got it out was buy customizing one of the saw blades to get it to fit deeper into the hole, and remove the alternator and a/c compressor And with your new custom blade cover it in grease and cut two grooves opposite of each other, either top and bottom or left and right (personally opted for left and right) Once your grooves are set get a screw driver that fits in the opening in the grooves and start backing out the fitting Thats what worked for me, and Walt and I got the accessories back in place and I am going to turn it on tomorrow and make sure the newish sending unit works and the new fitting isnt leaking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 28, 2018 Share Posted April 28, 2018 that's great news! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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