91 HO or Renix 4.6? Getting mixed advice.

[HOrnbrod]

5 minutes ago, 75sv1 said:

Also, very generous with advice.

 

That's for sure. I called him once for some advice regarding an aluminum cylinder head. Two hours later I was thoroughly educated.  

[johnj92131]

Russ Pottenger builds complete engines himself for customers.  How much money?  Did not seem too much when I spoke with him several years ago.  Depends on what you want to do.  He is in West Covina, California.  That is the Los Angeles area.

 

Contact information from Stroker Board below:

 

Bishop-Buehl Racing Engines
531 N. Lyall Avenue
West Covina, California 91790
Work (626) 967-1000
Cell (626) 673-2203
Email/PayPal: RussBnBracing@yahoo.com

[Bonkers]

Ill look more into it over on the stroker websites,

I really appreciate the help guys. Ill keep you 

posted on where i land.

[75sv1]

Just want to add, that that price also included balancing of the parts. I'll probably look into what a head cost from him. My plans are ever changing.

[cruiser54]

On 4/7/2018 at 9:06 AM, HOrnbrod said:

 

After thirteen years with zero problems, I can't complain.     And amazingly, all HO parts are still readily available. 

So, what parts are unavailable for Renix? 

[johnj92131]

Cruiser,

 

I am "thinking" most of the electronics are NLA.  Just like Monday when I called the dealer looking for a new Mopar master and slave cylinder - the are NLA.

 

One advantage to the Renix engine control system is the knock sensor, generally good for better mpg by at least 1 mpg.

[HOrnbrod]

40 minutes ago, johnj92131 said:

I am "thinking" most of the electronics are NLA.

Just like Monday when I called the dealer looking for a new Mopar master and slave cylinder - the are NLA.

 

One advantage to the Renix engine control system is the knock sensor, generally good for better mpg by at least 1 mpg.

 

Sometimes you can find a hit-or-miss C.R.A.P. Renix sensor though.  

 

Knock sensors aren't only a Renix thing; they're used by many other manufacturers. Even the craptacular 3.8 Wrangler engines had knock sensors, and there are many aftermarket knock sensor kits available. They are a good to have and provide a little extra engine protection especially with today's fuel additives. They all operate under the same basic principle.

 

https://www.rubitrux.com/omix-ada-17223-50-knock-sensor-4-7l-91-06-jeep-wrangler.html

[Jeep Driver]

1 hour ago, johnj92131 said:

Cruiser,

 

I am "thinking" most of the electronics are NLA.  Just like Monday when I called the dealer looking for a new Mopar master and slave cylinder - the are NLA.

 

One advantage to the Renix engine control system is the knock sensor, generally good for better mpg by at least 1 mpg.

NOS master and slave units are still available you just have to hunt them down

[75sv1]

I would think it was the EGR system for a few more MPG.

[FrankTheDog]

Stock gearing for wranglers with 30” (29.5”) tires was 3.73’s. If you’re not going over that size of a tire it would work fine.

 

[DirtyComanche]

17 hours ago, johnj92131 said:

Cruiser,

 

I am "thinking" most of the electronics are NLA.  Just like Monday when I called the dealer looking for a new Mopar master and slave cylinder - the are NLA.

 

The only thing that theoretically isn't available is the IAT.  Use a GM one.  Same with everything else that's "not available."

 

Keep your AMC Jeep free of Chrysler garbage and it will keep you happy for a long time.

[cruiser54]

Yeah. I'm not seeing a ton of unavailable Renix stuff. Even in a thread on NAXJA, they're stumbling around trying to put a list of stuff together that they can't find. It ain't even a list yet. 

[PCO6]

19 hours ago, Jeep Driver said:

NOS master and slave units are still available you just have to hunt them down

Are rebuild kits still available?   I used to get cylinders (different vehicles) sleeved and rebored and that always worked well. 

[dvitha]

I have never had Problem getting parts for the Renix. Sensors never a problem, just need to search for the good makers. I have 18 crashed mj's between 86 and 90 at my yard up in Forney. The renix years in my experience have been most reliable. The only must to keep them going is regular wiring maintenance. The 4.0 is rock sold as long as you keep it cool and oiled right.

I have found out, as long as you change your o2 with a ntk ever 80k or so, have stable wiring, and a good alternator the sensors last almost forever. I have 4 MJ's I used daily and one old 84 XJ.

[Bonkers]

So... i am removing everything for paint, its all coming

out of the truck regardless of decision... 

 

1) Keep the 88 Renix setup, stroke motor.

B) Swap 91 motor/harness, rebuild motor.

3) Swap 91 harness, stroke motor.

 

So far the only reason i havent started my rebuild is

the unability to find an HO tank/pump/sending unit.

Ive literally searched nationwide for years now without

a single working example popping up. It doesnt sit well

with me having a system that i can't basic find parts

for BEFORE i even install them... however, reliabilty is

formost, i don't want to be stuck in Wyoming (not that i

have anything against Wyoming mind you, its just as far

from beach resort as i can imagine) needing something

basic and not being able to get hold of it.

[Jeep Driver]

If you are serious about what you are doing................

 

There are parts out there, one may fall into you lap tomorrow -or- it may take you a year to find one. But, two years from now...........five years from now..........? No. 

 

 You want performance, reliability, off-the-shelf replacements........aftermarket, and it will cost you. 

 

'86 tank assemblies, NOS, are still available, use an on-rail pump and reg, your Renix already has a return, simple plumbing. That's what I'm doing. 

You'll have to work out the gauge issue, I'm going aftermarket there also. 

 

Come up with a plan, execute it. 

 

 

 

[cruiser54]

I vote for option 1.

 

But, I'll muddy the waters a bit. You could build the 91 into a stroker and put it in with Renix fuel injection. 

[75sv1]

I'd use the Renix block, a 91-95 head with Chevy valves. A 99+ intake, with a bored TB dia 62mm. Also, a crankshaft main cap cradle from the latter blocks. I'd keep the RENIX for now. I'd look into what injectors to use with the RENIX system. If problems latter, then switch over to the HO wiring. I'd also update the valve cover with an aluminum one from a 93-95 ZJ. Also, see the mod to the valve cover for Blow-by.

               Then there are other updates to make. There is a discussion on the Jeep Forum on the Minimoto radiator. $$, but one guy posted his results in AZ or such. Also, if you are going to lift it a bit. Springs etc. One guy did a Dakota/Ford GT350 big brake with the earlier AMC spindles, instead of the WJ big brake. As for towing, you might look into bigger brakes and the dual diaphragm brake booster. I'd probably put in a Ford 8.8 with 3.73's to get disk brakes. Possibly cross over steering. I like mine so far. I'd also look into the TransGo shift kits. I have a HD one in my present XJ. The trans was rebuilt. Seems better. Also, a tran cooler.

[HOrnbrod]

1 hour ago, 75sv1 said:

I'd also look into the TransGo shift kits. I have a HD one in my present XJ. The trans was rebuilt. Seems better. Also, a tran cooler.

 

Seems better - how? Worth it? Been thinking about this AW4 mod for awhile....

[75sv1]

16 hours ago, HOrnbrod said:

 

Seems better - how? Worth it? Been thinking about this AW4 mod for awhile....

        This would be subjective as there were issues with the trans in both of my '98 XJs. The first one, I put in the regular TransGo kit. I was having shift problems. Learned a lot on that one. Ended up being the output speed sensor and possibly one of the shift solenoids. I replaced all of them with the cheapies off of EBay.

          On this one,  I was also having various electrical issues. Also, it was leaking fluid, front and rear seals. When running good, it was normal. I was having a bunch of other work done. I asked about installation, in and out of the trans, $200.  Then the guy recommended a guy to rebuild it, $400. I did have a bunch of work done before the rebuilt trans was installed. Ford 8.8 4.10 ratio. WJ Big Brakes, cross over OTK steering and OTK panhard bar. It was not aligned. Roughly 15 mpg hiway.

          When the trans went in, the front was regeared to 4.10. I did have it aligned. Also, the cross over pipe was redone a bit. I got various MPG from IN to Central PA. Roughly 15.5 mpg to 18.7 mpg. I lost info on one of the runs.

          I still am getting a CEL code. It is either the O2 sensor or the rear speed sensor (out put) for the trans.  The trans does shift hard once in a while. I did have a flared shift a few time, this past trip. Overall, I like it. I do not know what modulation the shift kit was done to. I think 'Truck' and not 'sports car'. So far I do like it.

          I do have the Kolak exhaust system 2.5 inch, expect for the down pipe (cross over). That is one of the next things, and the O2 sensor. I am also looking into the Isikawa-Johnson windage tray and scrappers. I was not going to do a stroker for this, but might. It was planned for the Comanche. I think I am going to complete the '03 WJ 4.0L motor swap on it. Then do a stroker latter. I know, to many changes to verify stuff.

[cruiser54]

I have the TransGo kit on my shelf......