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Sound deadening?


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22 hours ago, Sir Sam said:

Terra how many coats did you put on?

 

I did three total coats using a specific spray gun/nozzle combo that was recommended by the manufacturer.  I bought two gallons of the stuff and I think I used just about all of it.

 

Don't get me wrong, the stuff worked and I definitely noticed a difference, but it didn't match my expectations that were driven by the hype generated by my former co-worker.  Ironically both you and him were using it on VW buses/vans that have very large sheet metal surfaces, which are more susceptible to vibration phenomenons such as resonance.  My belief is that the MJ interior sheet metal is a lot more rigid and doesn't account for a lot of the road noise that many complain about.  I found that the biggest reduction in interior noise came when I stuffed the transmission shifter hole with a piece of foam.

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18 hours ago, terrawombat said:

 

I did three total coats using a specific spray gun/nozzle combo that was recommended by the manufacturer.  I bought two gallons of the stuff and I think I used just about all of it.

 

Don't get me wrong, the stuff worked and I definitely noticed a difference, but it didn't match my expectations that were driven by the hype generated by my former co-worker.  Ironically both you and him were using it on VW buses/vans that have very large sheet metal surfaces, which are more susceptible to vibration phenomenons such as resonance.  My belief is that the MJ interior sheet metal is a lot more rigid and doesn't account for a lot of the road noise that many complain about.  I found that the biggest reduction in interior noise came when I stuffed the transmission shifter hole with a piece of foam.

 

Agreed there are some really big panels in the vans. That said the roof of the MJ is like a drum, but not much noise comes from above.

 

Engine, Transmission, exhuast, and tires are your big producers.

 

I'm planning to spray the sound deadener on inside and outside surfaces to help block sound from those places.

 

Then follow up with some of the dynamat type stuff and closed cell foam.

 

Really I'm trying couple of different methods to get the sound down. Hoping each one attenuates something a little bit better so overall I am left with a quieter cab.

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I've always been hesitant to use Dynamat or one of the 100 copies that are out on the market.  My fear is that the stuff will promote condensation due to the fact it's also a thermal insulator and you'll get water trapped between the floor and the mat.

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18 hours ago, terrawombat said:

I've always been hesitant to use Dynamat or one of the 100 copies that are out on the market.  My fear is that the stuff will promote condensation due to the fact it's also a thermal insulator and you'll get water trapped between the floor and the mat.

 

I've thought about that.  I think for the floor you might better off coating it with some good quality epoxy paint or bedliner just to ensure it is sealed, then putting a rubber mat over it.  I'd say doing the trans tunnel, firewall, cab walls, roof, etc with a Dynamat type product would probably be fine, you should be able to get it to adhere with almost no air gaps, and there shouldn't be a risk of pooling water (and salt, the other big thing) getting trapped behind it.  A guy might be well off to seal up any unused holes in the firewall or whatever though, and this would be a good idea for fighting general sound intrusion anyways.  Resonance on the floor shouldn't really be a huge problem, providing it's just the footwell area that you don't cover, and like I say you have a rubber mat over it (which could even be over your rubber flooring or carpet).

 

Once you stop panels from resonating, and cut noise from leaking in through air gaps, it's mostly just adding mass that makes the difference.  Hence a thick rubber floor should do a good job.  Adding some foam type insulation can filter out some higher frequency sounds, but that's not normally the noise Jeep owners are annoyed by (we hear the lower frequency tire and engine noises mostly, because our tires and engines are loud).

 

There's good info here: https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

As you can see, they don't bother to cover every square inch of metal with a material like Dynamat, as it isn't actually necessary to control resonance.  Getting the decoupled mass loaded vinyl over every square inch does much more.

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I've thought about that.  I think for the floor you might better off coating it with some good quality epoxy paint or bedliner just to ensure it is sealed, then putting a rubber mat over it.  I'd say doing the trans tunnel, firewall, cab walls, roof, etc with a Dynamat type product would probably be fine, you should be able to get it to adhere with almost no air gaps, and there shouldn't be a risk of pooling water (and salt, the other big thing) getting trapped behind it.  A guy might be well off to seal up any unused holes in the firewall or whatever though, and this would be a good idea for fighting general sound intrusion anyways.  Resonance on the floor shouldn't really be a huge problem, providing it's just the footwell area that you don't cover, and like I say you have a rubber mat over it (which could even be over your rubber flooring or carpet).
 
Once you stop panels from resonating, and cut noise from leaking in through air gaps, it's mostly just adding mass that makes the difference.  Hence a thick rubber floor should do a good job.  Adding some foam type insulation can filter out some higher frequency sounds, but that's not normally the noise Jeep owners are annoyed by (we hear the lower frequency tire and engine noises mostly, because our tires and engines are loud).
 
There's good info here: https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
 
As you can see, they don't bother to cover every square inch of metal with a material like Dynamat, as it isn't actually necessary to control resonance.  Getting the decoupled mass loaded vinyl over every square inch does much more.


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I saw a show on the tube were they used the CDL tiles they defiantly worked. They appeared
To be more effective then products that covered the entire surface. I don’t have my headliner in and it sounds like I’m driving around with a pot on my head. I think I may do some research on exterior methods too ie exterior Fire wall and under the cab as an additive to the cab if it’s not quiet enough. Not sure what’s out there but it would hurt to find out. A quiet car makes the ride so much more enjoyable. I’m using ear buds half to listen to music and half to block out the outside noise.


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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/12/2018 at 1:25 AM, jeeppapa said:


I saw a show on the tube were they used the CDL tiles they defiantly worked. They appeared
To be more effective then products that covered the entire surface. I don’t have my headliner in and it sounds like I’m driving around with a pot on my head. I think I may do some research on exterior methods too ie exterior Fire wall and under the cab as an additive to the cab if it’s not quiet enough. Not sure what’s out there but it would hurt to find out. A quiet car makes the ride so much more enjoyable. I’m using ear buds half to listen to music and half to block out the outside noise.


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When I bought my '92MJ the headliner and backing board were long gone.  Drove it 7.5 hours back home from OH to NJ so I got became pretty familiar with the interior road noises.  To make matters worse the upper rubber bushings on the front shocks were completely shot so whenever I hit a pothole, the front shocks would clang against the shock mount and the interior seemed to amplify the noise.  I replaced the spring bushings and installed a new headliner around the same time and the difference in cabin noise was night and day.  

 

I wound up buying one of the first prototype headliners w/backing board from a member on these forums.  I remember his company was SMS Headliners and I believe his name was Steve.  Not sure if he's still making them, but he was excellent to work with.  The first batch of headliners he made had a little too much material in the rear of the cab which cause the backing board to get pinched and crease.  There was also no way to get the plastic trim to fit without hacking up the headliner.  I sent him pics of the problem areas and he immediately saw the problem, modified his template and sent me a new one out ASAP completely free of charge even after I offered to cover some of the cost because he gave me a big discount on the first one since I was essentially a beta tester.  http://smsheadliners.webstoreplace.com/

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  • 10 months later...
On 3/6/2018 at 11:35 AM, jeeppapa said:

 

Anyone found fairly inexpensive way to deaden the road noise in the cab? This may sound crazy but has anyone tried spray foam. I’m not talking about drain areas. Maybe upper B pillar and the like. It’s just an idea. Not to enthusiastic about paying for the higher end mating. Just looking at other options and want to hear any other ideas that have had some success. Its really driving me nuts.

 

 

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 So I've read through this thread and there seems to be quite a few options on how to deaden the cab noise. I'm brand new to the Comanche world and from what I can tell the only way to really do any of these is to remove seats, carpet, liners, etc.  Any suggestions on where to start with that process?

 

Thanks, sorry it is a pretty simple question just trying to do it the right way rather than paying to do it twice or more.


Cheers

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5 hours ago, RowerJim said:

 So I've read through this thread and there seems to be quite a few options on how to deaden the cab noise. I'm brand new to the Comanche world and from what I can tell the only way to really do any of these is to remove seats, carpet, liners, etc.  Any suggestions on where to start with that process?

 

Thanks, sorry it is a pretty simple question just trying to do it the right way rather than paying to do it twice or more.


Cheers

I have had all of that out recently. It's isn't all that bad there's real not allot of it there.

In believe the order I would go would be.

Console

Seats

Seatbelts

Kick panel

Scuff plate

Back panels

B pillar

Carpet

Then sounds mat and reverse. Hope that helps.

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10 hours ago, RowerJim said:

 So I've read through this thread and there seems to be quite a few options on how to deaden the cab noise. I'm brand new to the Comanche world and from what I can tell the only way to really do any of these is to remove seats, carpet, liners, etc.  Any suggestions on where to start with that process?

 

Thanks, sorry it is a pretty simple question just trying to do it the right way rather than paying to do it twice or more.


Cheers

 

If you haven’t already purchased sound deadening material, I would recommend Noico. 

 

Here is a link: https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadening-Automotive-Insulation-dampening/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=asc_df_B00URUIKAK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198084439869&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1546514469184903628&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015535&hvtargid=pla-379817158544&psc=1

 

I purchased this kit and placed it all over the floor, ceiling, behind the seat, and even in the b-pillars.

It made a HUGE difference.

 

E25B8597-C8CC-4697-8D8B-300171FC2C7C.jpeg.e44d2092d6bc6fe45c28617b2734ab8b.jpeg

542778DE-50C7-4C60-8146-2788DE6D3303.jpeg.813c84afe89002d88be923e6cb3fb1e3.jpeg

9F33335A-6FF9-46E4-90B0-68836F57DC49.jpeg.2cdba55eff3c8b9be1862e3fcfc89299.jpeg

 

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On 2/5/2019 at 8:55 PM, NEO auto said:

 

If you haven’t already purchased sound deadening material, I would recommend Noico. 

 

Here is a link: https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadening-Automotive-Insulation-dampening/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=asc_df_B00URUIKAK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198084439869&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1546514469184903628&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015535&hvtargid=pla-379817158544&psc=1

 

I purchased this kit and placed it all over the floor, ceiling, behind the seat, and even in the b-pillars.

It made a HUGE difference.

 

E25B8597-C8CC-4697-8D8B-300171FC2C7C.jpeg.e44d2092d6bc6fe45c28617b2734ab8b.jpeg

542778DE-50C7-4C60-8146-2788DE6D3303.jpeg.813c84afe89002d88be923e6cb3fb1e3.jpeg

9F33335A-6FF9-46E4-90B0-68836F57DC49.jpeg.2cdba55eff3c8b9be1862e3fcfc89299.jpeg

 

These photos are a ton of help. How much square footage of material did it end up taking?

 

Looking to buy the material before I tear apart the cab, minimal downtime is the goal.

 

Thanks

 

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13 minutes ago, RowerJim said:

These photos are a ton of help. How much square footage of material did it end up taking?

 

Looking to buy the material before I tear apart the cab, minimal downtime is the goal.

 

Thanks

 

What you see is 36 sqft. Unless you want to install some in the doors, 36sqft is enough. 

 

We put the last few few scrap pieces in the b-pillars. A little bit of this material goes a long way.

 

To speed up the installation process, use scissors to cut the material into shapes. Let me know if you have any other questions.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/7/2019 at 3:46 PM, jeeppapa said:

Biggest issue I’ve had to deal with,witch is consistently tough for me, has been the bolts holding down the seats. Lube them multiple times before wrenching on them because if you round them off,  it can get really difficult. 

Lol, probably should have read this before taking the seats out this past weekend. I came pretty close to rounding off one of them but managed to get the seat out with minimal issues. Rain hit on Sunday slowing down the progress, but back to it as soon as the weather permits.

 

Cheers

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