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Posted

My 89 Jeep comanche was stolen this morning. Baltic Metallic (blue) with a white Jeraco Cap.  5 speed and bench seat. If anyone hears anything please contact me at 610-864-1582

 

Location West Chester, PA

Posted

Posting some pictures would be good  so if we see it elsewhere on the web we can report!  Hopefully it's back home soon! 

Posted

I have had a couple of cars stolen over the years.  It just really sucks.    Most of the time it is just some STUPID Chump who needs a ride a few miles and the car will be recovered in a week or so.  One time I found some Fellow in the middle of trying to steal my car and managed to scare the you know what out of him.  He took of running up hill and left my car with some cut ignition wires.   

Posted
45 minutes ago, Jeep Driver said:

That was stolen for the goodies.........stripped by now. 

 

Round here, they'd find the carcass burned out in a couple of weeks. 

 

About 5 years ago, my Comanche was stolen from a friends house in Tijuana. My friend's brother in law was a Tijuana cop.  Within 12 hours, the truck was recovered. Cops found 4 guys stripping the truck and managed to catch one of them.  The fellow got 7 years in prison! 

 

Posted

everyone should have a killswitch somewhere.  at least then the truck might remain behind as they steal stuff from it.  :(  thieves suck.

Posted
On 12/30/2017 at 10:27 AM, Pete M said:

everyone should have a killswitch somewhere.  at least then the truck might remain behind as they steal stuff from it.  :(  thieves suck.

 

Care to share how to do this. I read a couple of threads but not to sure on the method. 

Posted

you need to tap into a line that is important for the truck to run.  I suggest the fuel pump line where it connects to the inline resistor in the engine bay on the dr side inner fender.  (whitish ceramic thing about 3" long with 2 wires coming out of it)  Disconnecting here will allow the truck to start, but cause it to die after a couple seconds (the resistor is there for reduced noise from the pump and the computer by passes it at startup).  unlike a traditional killswitch that makes the truck not start at all and then the thief think to look for a switch, this will make your truck look like just a pile of crap and maybe he'll go away without any more damage than your doorlock and ignition.  

Posted

oh, and if you do a simple inline switch, you'll need to remember to turn it off each time or else it won't work as a deterrent.  :D  

 

the switch will need to be located in a spot that is both easy to reach for you, but hard to find for anyone else.  but since you're not using it as the cranking switch, it can be somewhere that is easy to reach as you get into the truck or before your buckle up.  :thumbsup:  

Posted

...

 

 

On my 69 el Camino, I wired a switch, in-line

with the HEI Distributor's - +12v. wire that ran

to the Ignition Switch.

Inside the cab, I installed a 1/4" jack,

like those used on the old headphones from

that 'other world'(analog-a).

Thieves look for a switch or something that moves.

The 1/4" Female Jack is flat, so trying to feel around

for a switch, the flat Female Jack will be bypassed.

 

My keychain would separate in half with the push

of a button, so My Key was the 1/4" Male Plug that

had the two leads Soldered together, internally, in order to

complete the circuit, when the ignition switch was used.

 

Without the 1/4" male plug installed into the jack, the

motor would turn but no power got to the distributor.

 

I always worried about - current draw, through the

1/4" Plug/Jack circuit which was set up for audio circuits

but it was never a problem.

 

I never lost the elky.:banana:

 

youngfred

 

 

 

 

 

Posted
1 hour ago, youngfred said:

...

 

 

On my 69 el Camino, I wired a switch, in-line

with the HEI Distributor's - +12v. wire that ran

to the Ignition Switch.

Inside the cab, I installed a 1/4" jack,

like those used on the old headphones from

that 'other world'(analog-a).

Thieves look for a switch or something that moves.

The 1/4" Female Jack is flat, so trying to feel around

for a switch, the flat Female Jack will be bypassed.

 

My keychain would separate in half with the push

of a button, so My Key was the 1/4" Male Plug that

had the two leads Soldered together, internally, in order to

complete the circuit, when the ignition switch was used.

 

Without the 1/4" male plug installed into the jack, the

motor would turn but no power got to the distributor.

 

I always worried about - current draw, through the

1/4" Plug/Jack circuit which was set up for audio circuits

but it was never a problem.

 

I never lost the elky.:banana:

 

youngfred

 

 

 

 

 

This is genius! 

Posted
5 hours ago, Pete M said:

oh, and if you do a simple inline switch, you'll need to remember to turn it off each time or else it won't work as a deterrent.  :D  

 

the switch will need to be located in a spot that is both easy to reach for you, but hard to find for anyone else.  but since you're not using it as the cranking switch, it can be somewhere that is easy to reach as you get into the truck or before your buckle up.  :thumbsup:  

 

Get a switch panel from an XJ and use the slot for the rear defogger or driving lights as the kill switch. If you have an auto tranny, hard wire the tranny power-comfort switch to "Power" and use that switch.

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