Bonkers Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 Tried Brute Performance PF9069 (arrived leaking) and Centric 13667512 (could not bleed.) Ordered three Omix-Ada 1690705s but discovered that the company mis-labeled an entire shipment with the wrong parts. Finally installed a Sachs SPH011 which also could not be bled correctly but worked well enough to drive... until now... 1,000 miles later and the slave has given up... This Ax15 swap has been, hands down, the single biggest disappointment of my automotive life. I feel like Ive ruined my truck... Anyway, does anyone know if Omix has fixed thier shipping issues in the past 3 months? Ive shopped around but it looks like most venders still have them removed from stock. Or does anyone know a good quality Master/Slave kit? Any other suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Mesa XJ Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 Mopar 52104110, I believe is the correct # 94-96 XJ 4.0 with ax15 and external slave. I’m keeping a eye out for a proper mopar one for my conversion.From the reviews it seems for this set up the mopar set is the way to go. Even better name brand are not the quality you’d expect.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 You've got to spend the money..........just the way it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 Internal or external slave? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonkers Posted October 8, 2017 Author Share Posted October 8, 2017 External. I was hoping to avoid the NOS $200+ setups, but if everyone agrees thats the best route then sobeit. Appreciate the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 External. I was hoping to avoid the NOS $200+ setups, but if everyone agrees thats the best route then sobeit. Appreciate the help! The original system wants Castrol GTLMA brake fluid. If your clutch pedal is even slightly bent then it will cause a leak from the clutch master and make bleeding them near impossible. I have done it with a suction tool. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Mesa XJ Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 External. I was hoping to avoid the NOS $200+ setups, but if everyone agrees thats the best route then sobeit. Appreciate the help! Unfortunately all the brands in clouding omix-ada and crown are cheap Chinese manufacturers, mopar is the way to go. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonkers Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 $225 paid and gone... thanks again, ill let you know... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 1 hour ago, Green Mesa XJ said: Unfortunately all the brands in clouding omix-ada and crown are cheap Chinese manufacturers, mopar is the way to go. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Omix is generally on par with whatever the cheapest generic is for quality, but priced much higher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 Yep, and you have to watch out because both them and Crown like to give their inferior copies the OEM part numbers too. That's bitten me a couple of times when I was younger and more naive... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertRat1991 Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 On 10/8/2017 at 5:17 AM, Jeep Driver said: You've got to spend the money..........just the way it is. NOS hydraulics seems like just as big of a gamble. Don't those things ship pre-filled / pre-bled? I'm skeptical as to how that thing can be fit for service after nearly 10 years on the shelf filled with brake fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 How many cars out there on the roads do you think actually get their brake fluid changed more than every ten years? At least the stuff sitting on the shelf is sealed against the not-very-harsh elements of indoors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 1 hour ago, DesertRat1991 said: NOS hydraulics seems like just as big of a gamble. Don't those things ship pre-filled / pre-bled? I'm skeptical as to how that thing can be fit for service after nearly 10 years on the shelf filled with brake fluid. Flawless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 I do my own bleeding and rebuild kit if I can. External slave seals were $7 last I bought. Some Chinese ones were assembled backwards (seals facing wrong way)I took several apart and reseated them correctly with a dab of PBR rubber grease or Castrol GTLMA fluid. The number of reman calipers with the pistons in backwards was crazy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 I want to pull apart the slave that failed on mine just to see if it was assembled wrong or just a really $#!&ty part. GTLMA is Dot 4, which is an odd choice for a clutch system, I guess next time I might try it or a Dot 4 fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 I want to pull apart the slave that failed on mine just to see if it was assembled wrong or just a really $#!&ty part. GTLMA is Dot 4, which is an odd choice for a clutch system, I guess next time I might try it or a Dot 4 fluid. It’s also synthetic low moisture absorbing. I wonder if I still have an Oem cap on my clutch master? They were built originally by Girling for Toyotas. I had the same cylinder on my 1.6L ‘72 Corolla and Hilux pickup with just a different rod coming out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 My Lada also calls for dot4 in the clutch. I'm guessing it's more for convenience. It probably doesn't need it, but it's also what's in the brakes and the reservoirs are right next to each other... It's also one less fluid you need to keep around this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 7 hours ago, carnuck said: I do my own bleeding and rebuild kit if I can. External slave seals were $7 last I bought. Some Chinese ones were assembled backwards (seals facing wrong way) No one rebuilds stuff anymore. Back in the day you could purchase a rebuild kit usually provided by the original manufacturer for about everything; master cylinders and slaves, wheel cylinders, starters, alternators, generators, carbs, about everything that could be rebuilt w/o specialized tools by a competent DIY guy. These rebuild kits are basically NLA now, and if you can find one it's a C.R.A.P. that may or may not work. Sometimes it cheaper just buying a new C.R.A.P. because the originals are NLA. I guess that's progress........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnj92131 Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 Progress indeed. I just did a rear brake job on my old Corvair. Purchased new wheel cylinders. One was packaged wrong - marked for right side but was left side. Got a replacement that was packaged correctly, That one leaked bad right out of the box. Going to put the old wheel cylinder back in tomorrow. It was still tight when I decided to be "smart" and just replace it with new. I guess 1 good wheel cylinder out of three purchased is not all that bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 No one does their own work anymore. It costs less in labour to throw a new part in than it does to rebuild the old one. Ship the core off to someone who makes 30 cents to rebuild it. Gotta send trucks (boats) back to the plant anyhow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Mesa XJ Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 I’ve rebuilt my clutch slave and master before, supposed to be a good quality kit but it didn’t work. I figured they were too worn out after 13 years. Haven’t been happy with remain anything for the last 10 years at least. If oem is not available or cost too much I start looking for reviews on any aftermarket parts I’m considering. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonkers Posted October 14, 2017 Author Share Posted October 14, 2017 Just noticed this on the instructions "do not break shipping strap prior to instillation, strap will break on its own when you depress the clutch pedal the first time." Um... how importantant is this? Ive always removed the strap before installing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 Just noticed this on the instructions "do not break shipping strap prior to instillation, strap will break on its own when you depress the clutch pedal the first time." Um... how importantant is this? Ive always removed the strap before installing. If it’s external slave, it’s tougher to bleed. If integral slave then it can pop apart before the trans is fully mounted. It’s almost self bleeding with the strap on it. Just watch the master stays full. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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