TheCodeMonk's 91 MJ - Rocky's slow build

[thecodemonk]

One of the things that people talk about with LS swaps is that the intake needs to be lower. A bit of time searching ls1tech's website told me that the LS6 intake was the one I would need to avoid the cowl hood.

A trip to eBay and a few days of waiting showed me why. This thing is way shorter and looks like it has a lot more room for air to get to the engine!

 

This is a comparison with the truck's "glamour plate" (to hide the uglyness underneath)

 

For comparison, even without the "glamour plate", this thing is REALLY tall compared to the car intake.

Also, looking inside, the truck intake has a tiny hole for all the air to go through...

 

I couldn't get a clear shot but it seems like there's less restriction on the LS6 intake (though more things for the air to go around).  

Tonight, I'll be poking the borescope into the engine and checking things out there.  I'll try and post some pics up of what I find since I don't really know what I'm looking for/at in there (beyond just checking for scoring or buildup).

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[thecodemonk]

Man I am horrible at keeping this up to date...

Not much had changed...but I've been slowly taking the suspension apart to install the iron rock three link kit (looks great).

 

That said, I found something different about MJs than XJs...the fuel and brake line routing around the extra brace for the cross member!

The brace comes right off but the hard lines are formed around that shape still.

 

Passenger side brace as an example:

 

The lines on the driver side with the brace removed:

 

If they we're flush along the rails, it wouldn't be an issue but since they're not, they're right where the upper link mount goes...any thoughts? Can I just pushthem out of the way? Is there another solution I am missing?  I'm thinking I can just pull the clips that hold them to the frame and pull them so they go around the link for now (and redo them completely during the engine swap later).

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[thecodemonk]

Well, the front 3 link went in like a dream! Huge props to Iron Rock Off-road on their three link system and how easy it was to install!

 

It tucks up pretty well underneath: 

 

 

As for the lines, there's enough give for them to just sit out of the way for now (after pulling away their plastic mounts from the uniframe).  Even at full compression, it doesn't interfere with them and doesn't seem to rub much so I'll leave them this way until I can get to a shop to get those lines replaced with new ones (I don't feel comfortable enough to bend new line myself).

 

 

 

Here is how it sits with just the front lifted with the Rubicon Express 4.5" lift coils...seems smaller than I expected but bigger tires may help with that feeling.

 

 

Now to move onto the back and I already encountered my first problem...oi!

 

Minor update on the V8 engine: It looks good...I forgot to snap pics from the borescope but the crosshatching is still there and it turns freely.  Once July hits, I should start digging into that and this thread will be a bit more active.  Until then, the plans are just to get this lift done and a bed rack done for the roof top tent.

 

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[Pete M]

best part of running new lines (aside from the fact they won't be all brittle like the old) is that you don't have to follow the factory curves.   just make sure nothing will get snagged or crushed.  

[thecodemonk]

best part of running new lines (aside from the fact they won't be all brittle like the old) is that you don't have to follow the factory curves.   just make sure nothing will get snagged or crushed.  

Yeah! That's a good point. Most of the lines don't seem like the runs are too convoluted to me...just that one spot.

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[thecodemonk]

Some new goodies came in today...they won't get put on for a bit but I got the parts at least!

T&M stiffeners and a headliner board and fabric from SMS (getting tired of hearing the rain and hail at max volume and of the heat coming off the bare metal roof).

I'm not a proficient welder and certainly not good enough for welding upside down or all along the MJ so I got on the schedule at Hazzard Fab for early June for that.

Once I get the SOA done, I'll get to work on the headliner.

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[Pete M]

13 minutes ago, thecodemonk said:

Yeah! That's a good point. Most of the lines don't seem like the runs are too convoluted to me...just that one spot.

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and if you're nervous about flaring them, I've redone 2 trucks so far, one where I flared my own, and another where I used the pre-made straight lines from the auto part store.  Just be sure to use the proper bending tool so they don't kink.    

 

while you're replacing lines, it's also a good time to remove the rear prop valve and upgrade to the dual booster from a late model Jeep.  Just do it all at once.   

[thecodemonk]

Got the rear off yesterday evening...so far the simple things that should be easy have all been a pain in the butt and everywhere I expect difficulty, things just come off easily (rear leaf spring bolts and u-bolts came right out without any struggle, but all brake related items took way longer than they should have).

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[HOrnbrod]

On 4/19/2018 at 9:32 PM, thecodemonk said:

That said, I found something different about MJs than XJs...the fuel and brake line routing around the extra brace for the cross member!

The brace comes right off but the hard lines are formed around that shape still.

Passenger side brace as an example:
The lines on the driver side with the brace removed:

 

If they we're flush along the rails, it wouldn't be an issue but since they're not, they're right where the upper link mount goes...any thoughts? Can I just pushthem out of the way? Is there another solution I am missing?  I'm thinking I can just pull the clips that hold them to the frame and pull them so they go around the link for now (and redo them completely during the engine swap later).

 

If you ever get your rig up on a lift one day, please post some full pics of the Iron Rock Off-road 3-link frame mounting details from below. Would love to see some full span shots right to left frame rails. 

[thecodemonk]

Sure thing H0rnbrod! 

 

Fun fact: They clear the stock control arm mounts even with the suspension fully compressed. (I haven't cut them off yet...may do that tonight while waiting for the paint to dry, if the welding goes well for the perches).

[HOrnbrod]

25 minutes ago, thecodemonk said:

Sure thing H0rnbrod! 

 

Fun fact: They clear the stock control arm mounts even with the suspension fully compressed. (I haven't cut them off yet...may do that tonight while waiting for the paint to dry, if the welding goes well for the perches).

 

[thecodemonk]

Whew!  What a week...why does it feel like it takes me 50 times longer to do anything than anybody else?

 

I got around to measuring the angles and tacking up the leaf perches, then dragged my axle over to a buddy's place and he burned them in (along with shock tabs).  They should hold nicely now!  

 

 

Next we got it home and lined it up...and found it wouldn't go in.  While I test fitted the new center pins before welding, something about them was too snug afterward...so I drilled them out a smidge bigger and it went right in.

 

 

Next up...new rubber (and wheels).  The old wheels seemed to be too snug around the hub nub and were difficult to get off (and nearly impossible to get back on once off).  So it was time for new wheels (and with new wheels, comes new rubber...because why not?).  Got some 33x12.5's that should fit nicely.

 

 

With the rear on the floor...it certainly added to the rake haha!

 

 

Now that the rears are done, time for the fronts!

 

 

 

 

 

It's a good feeling to have it all supporting its own weight again...after seeing the rake (not near as bad as the picture makes it seem), I realized I still need a bit more in the front, so I've got a small spacer coming to help that (I still like a little rake in my truck).

 

That said, the rear brake line hates me and won't come loose from the splitter block...so I guess I'm learning how to make hard lines afterall for the axle side.

 

On the short list of things to do before I take it back on the road:

- New Shocks all around

- Front brake lines extended

- Rear brake lines extended (and axle hard lines made)

- Bleed Brakes

- Front coil spacers (the 0.75" ones from Daystar)

- Remove or relocate front sway bar with extended lines

- Cut off stock control arm brackets

 

Tomorrow, I'll tackle the brake hard line...and if I get too frustrated with that, I'll start cutting the control arm bracketry (laying towels/blankets over the nice new control arms to protect them from the sparks since all I have is an angle grinder)

[thecodemonk]

Bending and flaring hard brake lines are a lot scarier in concept than practice, it turns out.  Got the rear hard lines in and bled...no leaks! One step closer to being back on the road.  

 

Here's the old lines out on the ground and a few pictures of the new ones after install.

 

 

 

The ebrake cables are long enough to get into the bracket but I'm not sure that they'll withstand much flex...probably need to think about how to extend those before doing any wheeling.

 

Tonight: Front brake lines and bleeding those...hopefully the shocks will arrive today or tomorrow and I can start driving it again!

[thecodemonk]

He's back on the ground and driving around! 

 

I got the front brake lines installed and bled, found that even at almost 5.5" of lift, the 33's rubbed the front of the wheelwell.  I moved the axle back and then it rubbed the back AND the front of the wheelwell, so I returned it to the original position.  

 

Once I buttoned everything else up, I broke out the painters tape, marker, cutting wheel, and large clippers.  My wife took lots of pictures while I was cutting but this is all pretty standard stuff, so I'll just include one that highlights the experience (no lights in the shop so I just have my battery powered flood lights and the glow from the sparks to go off of):

 

 

I still haven't cut off the old control arm brackets, but got the Bilstein 5100s installed.  Man do they ride good...this jeep rides better and absorbs the bumps way better than my XJ.  I should probably go back and work on that.

 

Now that I can daily drive it again, updates will probably slow down again as my bank account recovers from all the parts buying (though I do still have the RuffStuff steering kit to install).

[thecodemonk]

Wow this build got quiet...

 

Minor update/excuses as to why it dropped off the map:

- Made a bed rack...went camping!  Drove great to Banff and back in June 2018, so I figured we were good for a drive down the west coast (through OR and to SF, CA and back up). 

 

In between trips, I bought a pair of sliders from @krustyballer16 and got those welded on.  They work and look great!

 

 

On the west coast trip, we made it down and had a blast camping with the jeep.  The bench seat is surprisingly comfortable for a long trip!

 

On the way back home...it made it most of the way but developed a REALLY loud knock on the way back...about 300 miles from home.  So there I was...loud as hell knock in the engine, almost no oil pressure (dipstick still showed plenty of oil), and the old 4.0 was down on power with 300 miles to go.  Also, my wife was with me and was pregnant.  With all of that, the jeep still powered through and made it home on it's on power.  However, it wasn't going to be going anywhere for a while.  So...it sat...I ran out of time to work on it (prepping for baby, grandma's funeral...life stuff).

 

Then...about two weeks before my baby's due date, I got t-boned in my XJ.  The damage was....extensive.

 

The front driver's side frame is pulled in significantly...

 

 

The unibody is separating from itself under the rear seats...

 

and it mostly ripped apart the lower control arm mount, and a bunch of other things.

 

Needless to say, that XJ is totaled and now I'm borrowing my wife's car to commute to work.

 

The silver lining is, my wife said it'd probably be better to get the blue MJ back up than for me to go buy another car for my commuter.  So this project will pick back up.  The downside is...with a newborn, work responsibilities ramping up, and other things...I won't get to do most of the work myself (mounting the motor, wiring, etc).  I'll be doing as much as I can to prep the motor, trans, and t-case (donated from the wrecked XJ), and then it will go into Hazzard Fabworx next month for the actual engine swap.  Once that's done and things settle down again, I should be back to modding it.

 

[thecodemonk]

Speaking of work on the MJ...yesterday morning I got some bonus time to work on things with the jeep...

 

I got the NP231 out of the 01 XJ to be modified to mate up to the 4L60e.  

 

I went with the AA adapter kit over the novak one because it'd be easier for me to open up and work on the NP231 than the 4L60e.  The new Input gear looks a lot longer than the old one...but it fit just fine all together (no finished shots since it doesn't really look different other than the longer input shaft).  That said, the swap was pretty straight forward (I double checked against the bleepinjeep video for swapping a NP231 input to make sure I didn't miss anything).  

 

I also got the new intake test fitted on the engine...it sits nice and low and should clear the hood now!

 

However, it looks like I'll need to tweak the fuel rail input to clear the coil packs...a few places indicated that going with aftermarket rails eliminated that problem.  I'm going back and forth on whether I should do that or just tweak what I have.

 

Hopefully, I'll be able to make a bit more progress on Saturday.  In the meantime, I'll be trying to think of the best way to handle the gauge cluster problem.  Nobody really makes a cluster for the older style...but dakota digital has a few that look promising (potentially small enough that I could fit it in the existing mount if I did a little careful dremel work).

 

The clusters I'm looking at so far (with plans to mask/paint the front chrome to something more dull and fitting of the rest of the interior).

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=211/category_id=233/mode=prod/prd211.htm

 

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=846/category_id=69/mode=prod/prd846.htm

 

I'm leaning toward the digital one as it's just a hair less tall and will be easier to fit.

[thecodemonk]

Continued minor progress while I wait to take the MJ in.

 

Knock sensors replaced and RTV applied around the seals (leaving a tiny bit of room on the back in case there's some kind of odd pressure thing)

 

 

Took the trans cooler off of the XJ (took a picture of it dangling before I went to the store to pickup more kitty litter for the inevitable puddle)

 

 

I put the intake back on to check some measurements...man that thing sits really tight to everything (doesn't hit though, even after I cinched it down).

 

Valley cover bolts just barely clear...was worried I'd have to go get some special kind.

 

Throttle body just barely clears the top of the water pump.  Whew!

 

I ended up using a socket to bent the fuel line out of the way of the coil plug...it has a really small kink in it now.  Hopefully that isn't a problem later down the line (if it is, guess I'll be springing for those fancy aftermarket fuel rails -.-)

 

UPS brought a present in the mail today...after measuring 300 times, I went with the Dakota Digital's VHD-1010 and hoped it would fit (measurements said it would fit barely, height-wise).

 

 

...turns out, it fits! 

 

Just barely...but it sits between the mounts without any difficulty.

 

Just need to do a little cutting of the old structure for the warning lights to let it sit flush (and also cutting a small frame for it to sit in and to fill out the sides).  Since I have a spare unit (when I swapped gauges out to get full gauges instead of just id10t lights), I will probably see if I can't do that myself.

 

Going to talk to a friend about making a flush frame in his new fancy 3D printer and see if that will do the job.

 

I also measured and ordered some accessory brackets...went with the holley set for both A/C and PS/Alt in the corvette high-mount style.  While cruising around and looking at what other people did, I noticed some were able to keep the A/C compressor in the original spot (passenger-side down low).  I'm hoping I can do that too as that will be an easy dual compressor setup (A/C and OBA).  Anybody else have experience on whether or not that will fit?  If not, I'll find out in a few weeks when we drop the motor in.

[thecodemonk]

Well...I got started on the gauge fitment.  Test fitted and took a measurement (the gauge unit is just 1 inch thick, so I figured if I cut down to 1.25 inches, I should be safe).

 

Picked up a dremel and started going to town.  

 

I'll spend some time cleaning it up more later (it's my first time using a dremel and cutting/melting plastic with it).  First...test fitment!

 

As a note, I ground away a little of the inside edge to make room for the screws, but it fit perfect otherwise!

 

It sits nice and flush...

 

With that done and confirmed, I marked where the screws are and (roughly) where the bezel ends on the Dakota Digital unit.  I may look at cutting this up as a model for my friend to use for measurements.

 

I also got this in the mail...a bracket for the PS pump and the alternator from Holley! 

 

Just gotta wait on the spacers to make it fit for truck spacing now (supposed to arrive on Monday).  

 

[thecodemonk]

The bracket spacers from holley came in and, so, I got the accessory brackets mounted up.

 

Everything fit pretty well, other than having to take the water pump back off to get one of the bolts on (for the A/C bracket spacer).

 

In addition, the sidewinder shifter came in...going to visit RADesigns (since he recently moved up here to Spokane) and pick up some cool additions to modify this into a manual shifter.

 

I set it in the jeep to see if it would fit there...may or may not be the permanent position, but I like it so far. :)

 

Lastly, some scribbles of an idea for framing the gauges...I sent it over to my friend with the 3D printer and will see if I need to adjust the sizes, but it should get me close (made it in two halves because a single piece would be too large for his printer).

 

If it works out, I'll post up the final design files for people to use if they have a 3D printer of their own, or even for use with a CnC machine (for the few people who, like me, prefer the older interior over the 97+).

 

The remaining pulleys should come in tomorrow and friday to finish this up.  Saturday, I hope to get to the junkyard to source a SD508 off of one of the old XJs there.

[thecodemonk]

It's been a few days and the thread will probably get quiet again for a few weeks.  But I thought I'd post an update (as well as something I hope the V8 guys might find useful, if they want to run the Dakota Digital cluster I did).

 

First off...I went to the junkyard and, after a bit of searching, found a SD508 off of an old XJ.

 

 

This will probably be my A/C unit (after converting it to R134a) and the Denso unit that came with the V8 will be my OBA unit (since it's specs say it flows more air).

 

- Denso 10s17f: 10.8ci
- SD508: 8.4ci

 

For comparison, the York 210 that everyone likes flows 10.3ci.  So I am hoping that the Denso works well (even though I have to setup the oiling system, unlike the York's built-in stuff)

 

I got it all mounted up and, with some help from my neighbor's tractor, got the engine into my dad's pickup for transport.  We built a bit of wooden frame around it to hold it still while we drove.

 

After I got the SD508 mounted up, I noticed that the belt alignment is slightly off.  I'm notsure if it's enough to cause me problems, but I suppose I can tackle that when it happens.

 

Oh...also, the last big piece came in from Novak...their radiator and fans.

 

The passenger side fan is pretty thick...I'm hoping I don't run into any interference issues.

 

For the gauges, my neighbor with the tractor is also my neighbor with the 3D printer, so he brought over the units I asked him to for the gauge mounting.  I think it looks great and everything mounts wonderfully (I had to cut some clearance for the nuts on the cluster, but it wasn't too bad) 

 

It sits almost flush...I forgot to account for the metal housing under the front plate when I designed it.

 

I may go back later and redo them, but the sketch measurements for the two pieces are below (please forgive my inability to draw straight lines)

 

If I were to do it again, I'd make the thickness of the legs just a smidge smaller to help it sit flush.  For now, it looks good enough, I think.  If it bugs me later, I'll update the STL.

 

Speaking of the STL, for anybody who has their own 3D printer, this is the STL we worked off of (I built the design in tinkerCAD and that's what my neighbor used for these pieces).  It's two pieces because we didn't have a 3D printer large enough to make it one.  If your printer is too small, you can get away with cutting off the legs until it fits your printer.

 

Here's the file:91 MJ Guage Mount Plate for VFD3-1010.stl

 

For now...I dropped the engine and this bed full of parts off at Hazzard.  I'll probably be dropping by every few days to the "vehicle ICU (VICU)" to check up on him.  

[Pete M]

your belt is not going to be a happy camper with that misalignment.   not certain what the fix would be though.

 

those gauges are going to be awesome   

[thecodemonk]

23 minutes ago, Pete M said:

your belt is not going to be a happy camper with that misalignment.   not certain what the fix would be though.

 

those gauges are going to be awesome   

 

I'm not sure either...maybe a different clutch?  

[thecodemonk]

Update time!

 

I stopped by the shop last night and it looks like they made a lot of progress really fast!

 

Engine, transmission, and transfer case is all in place.

 

The engine looks really snug and they commented how easy the Novak engine mounts, headers, and radiator was for fitment.  It went in really easily for them.

 

Looking underneath, it looks like there's plenty of room for the OEM compressor.  

 

Also, those headers are REALLY shiney.  That probably won't last that long once we hit the trails again. :)

 

They fabbed up a transmission mount (with their HFW logo, of course) that attaches directly to the existing crossmember from Iron Rock.

 

It uses CJ leaf spring bushings, so that should (hopefully) be easy to get when they eventually wear out.

 

Lastly, I had read that the whole drive train would be shorter with the new setup, but I hadn't really understood how much shorter it would be!  This picture really gives an idea of how much farther forward the t-case is from the stock location.

 

On the way out of the shop, I spotted all the old parts in a pallet and couldn't resist taking a picture.  There's a lot of memories (from such a short time ago) wrapped up here...

 

They mentioned that getting all the big pieces in place was the easy part and that getting everything wired up would take a bit longer to do.  I'll keep updating as long as there are interesting updates to be had!  I can't wait to get behind the wheel of this!

[fiatslug87]

What brand RTT is that? James Baroud, Maggiolina?

[thecodemonk]

4 hours ago, fiatslug87 said:

What brand RTT is that? James Baroud, Maggiolina?

It's a James Baroud Evasion XXL!  I love that tent.  It's roomy, easy and quick to setup/tear down on my own.  Sadly, the wife thinks it's too cold (it's perfect for me), so it's actually for sale right now on the Spokane Craigslist.