ftpiercecracker1 Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 So as to conclude the Autozone CPS question, I believe the new (unmodified) Napa CPS has solved my sudden/random dieing issue, BUT now I have a new issue. This is the new problem. While trying to maintain speed, any speed, the truck starts to spit, sputter and pop through the exhaust. If you try to accelerate once it starts the problem only worsens. The symptoms grows worse and worse the farther you press the gas UNTIL you reach WOT at which point it accelerates normally. It is very erratic but very cosistant. It definitely seems to get worse as the truck runs. Not so much as the truck warms, because it warms up to operating temp in 5 minutes of driving, but the symptoms are still minimal. After 10 minutes or so is when it starts getting worse, BUT driving home last night (15min) it was fine. The very same drive into town just a few hours earlier was a huge PITA. Spitting, sputtering, popping, trying to stall, idle was all over the place (1100 - 200rpm). I tried disconnecting the TPS and that only served to exasserbate the symptoms. I have compulsively checked and reset the TPS about three times in the last three days, each time the symptoms get a little worse, then a little better and then worse again. Tested fuel pressure WITH a gauge. 32 w/ vacuum 39 without. Instantly jerks up a few psi when the engine is revved. Distributor cap and rotor button were trashed. I thought that might have been my problem, so I replaced them with the same thing i had on there, Echlin brand brass contacts/good stuff. There was no change to my symptoms. Plugs could stand to be replaced too, doing that sometime today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 I had some of the same symptoms once. Turned out to be a clogged cat. If you still have a cat, you may want to check it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted November 5, 2016 Author Share Posted November 5, 2016 Cat has been hollowed out long ago. Well son of a $#@!%, the random cutting out is back. Cruising in 5th doin about 35mph tach drops to zero, dead as a hammer. Coast for about 1/8 mile trying to start it, finally she cranks back up and goes on. Heading home later on, I'm about 200ft from my drive way and she cuts out again, I ended up coasting to a stop directly in front of my mailbox lol. This time she won't fire back up, I try for several minutes but she won't even cough. Just pushed her into the ditch in front of my house. She had been doing fairly well all day. In order to try and further isolate the problem I disconnected the O2 and the coolant sensor on the side of the block. It's hard to say whether or not it made a difference. For whatever reason the popping and sputtering seem to be the most pronounced when in fifth gear. With the return of the random cutting out I am leaning towards a dieing coil, but how should I go about testing it and how do I know it's not a bad module? (The thing the coil sits on) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyinthedirt Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 Did you say 5th gear and doing thirty five? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted November 5, 2016 Author Share Posted November 5, 2016 Did you say 5th gear and doing thirty five? Maybe it was fourth gear. I was turning maybe 1200rpm and was going somewhere between 35 and 40. Speedo doesn't work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted November 6, 2016 Author Share Posted November 6, 2016 Ok so as it stands at this very moment the trucks symptoms remain unchanged. In the last week I have replaced the: CPS 2x (first modded, second unmodded) dizzy cap (brass contacts) rotor button ( brass contacts) spark plugs (good ole champions) coil (oem) Replaced coil and plugs tonight. Plugs were worn, but otherwise looked great. I replaced the coil because the truck is still cutting off even with the new CPS. I figured how could it be anything else, but alas the problem persists. Gonna try the TPS next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Check the MAP and the IAT, And I hope you've cleaned your grounds and replaced the stupid bonding braid. Otherwise you're going to need to diagnose it when it isn't running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted November 6, 2016 Author Share Posted November 6, 2016 How am I supposed to check those? What values am I checking for? Also do you know how to test the ignition coil? Is there a certain ohm value? Yes, i have done all the ground upgrades, but it's been a while and they could stand to be cleaned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 IAT values are in this table: http://comancheclub.com/topic/49753-found-replacement-air-charge-temperature-sensor-or-iat/page-2?hl=iat&do=findComment&comment=513136 I'd be more concerned if it's erratic or doing weird things. You can pull it out and clean it and then test it in water on the stove. I'll have to look in the manual for the MAP stuff, but there's a few threads on here about it too. Again, I'd be more concerned that it's doing erratic things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 No plug wires replaced? That's due every 30,000 miles with plugs, cap and rotor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Have you ever done my Tips 1,3,4, and 5? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted November 8, 2016 Author Share Posted November 8, 2016 Have you ever done my Tips 1,3,4, and 5? Yes, at one time or another. I checked all my grounds, new and old, they are dirty/oily, but still tight as the day i put them in. So it seems all i needed to do was threaten my truck with lighting it on fire and all my problems went away. Not really, but it is confounding none the less. The truck was a huge PITA to drive to and from work yesterday (sunday), but after i got home i started pecking around on it again. I pulled and reconnected a few electrical connectors i hadnt messed with in a looooong time (knock and cam), completely removed MAP sensor hose and blew through it (it was clear), and totally removed and reset the TPS . . . . . again. I used my voltmeter and ran several tests checking for dead spots in the travel and only during the first test did i notice an unexpected dip in my read out. No matter how slow i went i could not reproduce the drop. So i said #@$! it and dialed it in and let it ride. For the last 48hrs the truck has ran flawlessly. Really wish i knew what the problem was though. :???: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 The symptoms your explaining sounds like the tps, I had a tps (maybe original), that would sputter, but run fine at times, then after run like crap, then finally it got to the point I could drive it more than a minute before sputtering and sputtering until I disconnected it one day cleaning grounds l/electrical connectors and it ran like new and didn't realize it wasnt plugged in till I pop the hood... I replaced itand adjust to cruisers methods and haven't had a problem since... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 Those connectors are old. That coulda been the whole issue or at least a major contributor. What do you think the ECU saw when a sketchy TPS sent a signal through sketchy connections? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted November 8, 2016 Author Share Posted November 8, 2016 Those connectors are old. That coulda been the whole issue or at least a major contributor. What do you think the ECU saw when a sketchy TPS sent a signal through sketchy connections? I thought about that and that's why I tried straight up disconnecting the TPS. I figured if the TPS was the problem and I cut it out of the ECU's calculations the the symptoms should improve. When the symptoms only worsened i figured the problem must lie elsewhere. Also, it should be known and I think I have already mentioned it, but I had already unplugged/reset the TPS multiple times prior. The only thing I did different this last time was to fully remove it from the TB and cycle it through its ROM a few times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 Keep us posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted November 9, 2016 Author Share Posted November 9, 2016 Oh I'm fired up now. Not but two hours after my last post and I'm sitting on the side of the road. Pulled out of the grocery store parking lot and clunk, she is dead as a hammer. Coughed a few times trying to start her back up, but then nothing. Now she isn't even trying. Going to pop the hood, have a look see, wait a bit, then try to start again and see what happens. If I hadn't of just had an otherwise great day I would have already lit her on fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted November 9, 2016 Author Share Posted November 9, 2016 Okay, she's fired back up. Heading home, running like nothing ever hap. . . . . nevermind literally just cut out as I post this. Breaking out the matches now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SVPete Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 When it dies, does it take forever to re-start.....like it is flooded? When my truck had similar issues, after then engine cut out (seemed like electrically it died), I swear I could hear the injectors firing more. Either crank a long time to re-start or just wait 10 to 15 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted November 9, 2016 Author Share Posted November 9, 2016 When it dies, does it take forever to re-start.....like it is flooded? When my truck had similar issues, after then engine cut out (seemed like electrically it died), I swear I could hear the injectors firing more. Either crank a long time to re-start or just wait 10 to 15 minutes. Yes and no. Sometimes 5min other times 25min. I don't smell gas, there is no black smoke and when it does fire back up it does so normally and runs/idles normally. After going through the same cycle (wait for a few minutes, start it, drive for a mile, dead, rinse-repeat) for a third time, my brother came and towed me home. I had the engine running the whole way without issue. I found out that if you pull the fuel pump relay the truck shuts off instantly, which surprised me. I expected it to slowly sputter to a stop. On a hunch I swapped relays around hoping for a miracle. No dice, truck died again just a mile or two down the road. Once I got it started again I really dug into the wiring harness, shaking it, wiggling and tugging the wires going ti each relay bucket and connector. Nothing phased it; the engine kept right on idling smooth as silk. Question: Are there any wires that if grounded could cause these sudden cut outs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 Carry a meter and test the cPS when this happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 When was the last time you replaced your starter relay? Or cleaned the connections on it? Just to be sure, make sure they are in the right spot because mine were reversed and a hell of a time trying to figure stuff out till one day I looked at pictures online and the were swapped (ignition grounding out/ and vice versa) to make sure they are in the right place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted November 9, 2016 Author Share Posted November 9, 2016 Starter relay isn't the original, but it is several years old 5+. Yes, I went through hell too trying to figure out which wire went where. I eventually got it right and didnt touch it until last night. I unplugged each wire and plugged it back in just to make sure each had a secure connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 Starter relay isn't the original, but it is several years old 5+. Yes, I went through hell too trying to figure out which wire went where. I eventually got it right and didnt touch it until last night. I unplugged each wire and plugged it back in just to make sure each had a secure connection. Good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted November 9, 2016 Author Share Posted November 9, 2016 I just tested the CPS with the truck running. I'm getting a rock solid 1.5 acv What ye cruiser? I read your CPS testing tips and it says I should be getting .5acv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now