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Autozone CPS


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Pretty sure my problem lies with the title of this thread, but I always like a second opinion to confirm my thinking. About two weeks ago my truck started to die at complete random. Total light switch effect, one second it's running the next it's dead as a door knob. Tach goes to zero and stays there even if the engine is rotating; it's a 5spd so i try to roll start it as I am coasting. On a side note, it never would start that way. It would only fire back up if I cycled and USED the key.

 

Otherwise the truck ran flawlessly.

 

It got worse everyday until driving home the third day after it started it cut out and wouldn't start at all.

 

Classic failing >>>> failed CPS right?

 

Dealership says the part is unobtainable/discontinued. So, with great trepidation, I pick one up from autozone. Right off the bat there are problems. The truck has been stalling/cutting out/hesitating under acceleration/quietly backfiring since the moment I installed the Autozone CPS.

 

Yes, I did Cruiser's CPS mod, just like I did with the last one.

 

Can a poor quality CPS make a truck run crappy or are their symptoms more narrow. I.E. light switch effect.

 

 

Where can I get a mopar/NOS CPS? Part number?

 

 

thanks

FPC

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Called and ordered, should be here tomorrow morning. Edellman brand, never heard of it, but fella at the counter spoke very highly of them. Said it was the best they offered. $40

 

 

I guess I was so set on getting mopar I didn't even consider Napa.

 

Will update in 48hrs

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I put a CPS I got from Autozone in my truck 9-ish years ago. I don't have any problems with it. My problems were other things....which were troubleshot by the dealer as a bad CPS. I'm interested on how the different CPS works out for you.

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I think you could've stopped at the word "Autozone" personally :D I had one from there die on me at about 350 miles - it failed on Christmas eve in fact.

 

If you don't want to get stuck on the side of the road, Ma Mopar is what you want.

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Borrowed from another jeep site, Cruiser's test is outlined for Renix CPSs as the second test.

 

TESTING PROCEDURE 1991 – 2001 4.0L H.O. engines

1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness.

2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (SEE Image). Ohmmeter should be set to 1K-to-1OK scale for this test.

3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if a low resistance is indicated.

b977767ddc8440b35bab3ae121f1d5b7.jpg

 

b63ea5ec2ff14ed0f96f1e09aa3331ef.jpg

 

 

TESTING PROCECURE for 1987 – 1990 4.0 L engines

Test # 1 - Get a volt/ohm meter and set it to read 0 - 500 ohms. Unplug the CPS and measure across the CPS connector's A & B leads. Your meter should show a CPS resistance of between 125 - 275 ohms. If the CPS is out of that range by much, replace it.

 

Test # 2 - You will need a helper for this one. Set the volt/ohm meter to read 0 - 5 AC volts or the closest AC Volts scale your meter has to this range. Measure across the CPS leads for voltage generated as your helper cranks the engine. (The engine can't fire up without the CPS connected but watch for moving parts just the same!) The meter should show .5 - .8 VAC when cranking. (That's between 1/2 and ~1 volt AC.) If it's below .5 VAC, replace it.

 

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

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The FSM "test" for the HO CPS is simply to check for an open across the pins. Every good and bad CPS I've ever checked had an open. Has anyone seen an ohms reading of anything else? At least with the Renix CPS you can test the output to semi-validate it; not so for the HO CPS.

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Update:

 

Napa part is 99% identical to the Autozone part down to the number printed on the part itself. There was one string of numbers that did not match, I assume batch number? Other than that and a slightly different box, it was the same d**n thing only $15 more.

 

Got it installed, truck fired up fine, took a very short drive around the neighborhood, all seems well. I should point out that I did not modify this part at all. Out of box, onto truck.

 

Maybe I screwed up the AZ sensor when I was doing Cruiser's mods? I've done it before without problems, but I'm not ruling out operator error. I need my truck for work tomorrow, so we shall see.

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Update:

 

Napa part is 99% identical to the Autozone part down to the number printed on the part itself. There was one string of numbers that did not match, I assume batch number? Other than that and a slightly different box, it was the same d**n thing only $15 more.

 

Got it installed, truck fired up fine, took a very short drive around the neighborhood, all seems well. I should point out that I did not modify this part at all. Out of box, onto truck.

 

Maybe I screwed up the AZ sensor when I was doing Cruiser's mods? I've done it before without problems, but I'm not ruling out operator error. I need my truck for work tomorrow, so we shall see.

Which mod did you do? Drill the hole out? 

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Your half right smarty pants, didnt realize it was a renix, just had my issues last week so was trying to help. It does have the ignition coil pack tho maybe the term is ignion coil. You going g to jump on onlyinajeep for putting up a high altitude cps link that's a brake line?

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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Your half right smarty pants, didnt realize it was a renix, just had my issues last week so was trying to help. It does have the ignition coil pack tho maybe the term is ignion coil. You going g to jump on onlyinajeep for putting up a high altitude cps link that's a brake line?

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

Huh?

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