Comanche SS - LS, Locked, Long Arms...

[HOrnbrod]

No, I sure don't. He passed away when I was pretty young and I have no idea what happened to them.

[Comanche SS]

So, what happens when your GF has a jeep that will out wheel yours? Geometry happens.

 

I was at my new builders shop discussing some necessary upgrades that my jeep needs in the near future. Tons, links, tires, rims..the lot. And I derived a list of what this jeep is going to have. After looking at the "poster" comanches that I like, I decided my jeep is going to be the ultimate daily driver, weekend wheeler, and some road trip worthyness. I took M1A1, H3RESQ, and Zone's Killer into my thoughts and have all the geometry for my rear link setup I will be installing. Like H3RESQ I will be doing a 3 link and Pan hard bar, with 35s and built dana 44's. I have one dana 44 already, and my junyard has a handful of ford and dodge ones for 125$ d to d. Reason behind a 3 link and not a 4 link is simply put, I have a 23.5 gal fuel cell, with a HO fuel pump, I do not want to get rod if. I already have the battery relocated under the bed (will be going in the bed) and my exhaust is getting hacked and shortened. With that in mind, I have over 50 inches lengthwise to put a 3rd link from the top of my axle and the t case. It will be getting bilstiens (14 in) and here is my link specs so far....insight is appreciated. 

 

GOAL Link setup:

 

Tire size - 35in

Wheelbase - 119.5

axle link seperation due to 35 tires - 8.75 in

lower link - no more than 10* of angle

upper link - 0* 

upper arm length - 70-100% of lower length

lower arm length - UNDECIDED

Link Seperation Angle - 50* +-10*

Anti squat - 80% with multiple mounts 

 

 

With these Goal variables in mind.I am going to research and brainstorm with my builder as to what lengths are necessarry. Also, the reason I do not want tons is becasue I want to keep this jeep sitting on 35s and DD able. If I get tons, big tires are tempting and eventually inevitable, MPG will $#!& the bed, and sheer size with not a huge lift and tires. Trussed and chromoly with possible sleeves on Dana 44's will handle 35s and my power reasonably well. My goal for the rear suspension is to keep it under 2k and I have a price list as follows:

 

RS 3 link w/bolts/DOM-865

Stock XJ Coils-60

Bilstein 33-185569-150

RS Shock Hoops-60

Axle Shock Brackets-15

Coil Mount Link Bracket-60

Coil Top mounting plates-30

Rear cost(stock axle)-1240

 

This totals 1240 excluding tax and other odds and ends, I am going to DD this. My D30 will be on the jeep till it breaks or I have time and money to build the front axle. don't yell at me for running it with 35s. as I have done it before on a non locked, geared, or chromolied D30 before. This one is all of the above with a mini truss...its only temporary...

 

 

So all in all, I would love some insight, this is my first time doing a link setup on anything and I would like nothing more than to do it once and do it right. My main question I have now is length of arms...I have up to 60" of room, but I think a 60" arm  would be way overkill. Most build I see are between 35-50 inches. Whats a good sweetspot retaining the stock wheelbase, with good flex, and not going to run anything higher than 6" over stock hieght?

[neohic]

Lots of questions and numbers in there that really don't make much sense unless you're laying under the truck with a tape measure. Most of the time you can really only work with the room you have to dictate control arm length. You're right though that a 60" control arm is pretty silly unless you're building a monster truck. Too long and it'll just drag over rocks. Too short and you'll sacrifice flex and make for goofy pinion angles. Run what ever your builder thinks.

 

Better put some good sway bars on your list. If you're running coils front/rear things are going to get tippy if you want a decent daily driver. That goes double when you're running long arms.

[Comanche SS]

Lots of questions and numbers in there that really don't make much sense unless you're laying under the truck with a tape measure. Most of the time you can really only work with the room you have to dictate control arm length. You're right though that a 60" control arm is pretty silly unless you're building a monster truck. Too long and it'll just drag over rocks. Too short and you'll sacrifice flex and make for goofy pinion angles. Run what ever your builder thinks.

 

Better put some good sway bars on your list. If you're running coils front/rear things are going to get tippy if you want a decent daily driver. That goes double when you're running long arms.

I knew I was forgetting something up on that post, Do you know of any JY sway Bar options? an xj 28mm? Or is custom my only route? also, the arms location is really flexible on this jeep, thats why I don't know where ot begin, as I don't know whats best. I have complete clearance for a 10" all the way to 60" for all three arms, so I am at a loss as to where to start. Looking for a general rule of thumb or a perfect equation..anything really. The lower arms are going to be the frame rails obviously, and the upper is going to be to the inside of the passenger frame rail. For DD what is the best arms lengths? These are all questions I have been looking on pirate for and come with no resolve. 

[neohic]

I think Pirate4x4 is a really bad place to be trying to find solid information for a daily driver. Sure, there's tons of builds and information, but that only forces you to sift through it all to find what you actually need. I'd say that most of the "four/three link for dummies" webpages out there will say something along the lines keeping your arms as close to the same length and have your upper link(s) as close to parallel to the ground at ride height.

 

Whenever I get around to building my next wheeling rig I want it to be streetable as well. If you were to measure for front links and figure that you could be using a beefy transmission crossmember as a frame mount location, use that as the numbers(ish) for the rear too. That'd make for a closer balance for street driving. What my plan will (probably) be is to not have a stupid long set of control arms in the front. Maybe halfway between the factory mounts and the trans crossmember?... call it a "mid arm"? With that though, I have no intent to have a sway bar. I'll be keeping leafs in the rear in an attempt to keep some stability. I'm sure I (you too) could find a junkyard swaybar that'd work, but I just have no interest in it. Lots of good aftermarket options though... expensive too.

 

You're still talking about a lot of variables. Having a daily driver/wheeler/road trip truck is a tall order to cover all those bases.

[Comanche SS]

Skyjacker had a mid arm setup kind of what your talking about.

 

https://goo.gl/images/bsRVWR

 

Kind of a CAD with longer than short arms.

 

And when I am building this, I kinda want it to be overall good at anything. I plan on keeping this truck, I also plan on moving throughout the States, and I only plan to build the truck once. So I want a rig that can do everything fairly, including daily driving and zero towing(possibly some hauling rarely) . I do understand it's a tall order, that's why I am asking and not assuming haha. Pirate had a newbie section but it was everyone comparing ball sizes lol. Thank you!

[Comanche SS]

Got a 30$ UWS bed toolbox...needs some freshening up but a great buy! and chasing down a small chirp in the drivetrain so 2wd for now...but managed to flex with the JKUR today...My Metalcloak twins ;)

 

I need to work on getting the rear to flex better, its super stiff.

 

 

[Comanche SS]

I got a new Job at an auto parts store and with my first paycheck I bit the bullet and did my tranny swap...NOT only a tranny swap though. I made my jeep even better, to the tune of a built 700r4 capable of handling 500hp/500tq, withexternal cooling, quick shift kit, low range kit,performance convertor and lokar shifting. But thats not all. I custom made HD driveshafts because my new tcase was longer, that tcase being a NP241HD thats also built, and strengthened to handle extra hp/tq. customshift linkage and bracketing. I also have an extra NP241 for parts. and locally made driveshafts and exhaust are getting re done as well. call me cliche and stupid for swapping this tranny in, doesnt bother me, this is my jeep, built my way and suited for me.

 

 

 

 

1310 vs new 1350

[Korsch_RS]

Dang, if only I hadn't just gotten my 4L70 built for my LS jeep I'd be all over that T56. 

 

Jeep looks pretty sweet! How do you like the Metalcloak coils? Are they the dual-rate ones?

 

I just ordered those for my longarm front build and I'm curious what you think of them

[johnj92131]

 

Might be a dumb question, does anyone know the relationship between tj and Xj/MJ coil springs? and also, whats a good rule of thumb of lowest I should safely go with long arms? And what is a good towing capacity for a stock MJ VS. mine. Keep in mind it has a Metric tonne package with a d44 geared to 4:10 plus the tranny and engine...

 

 

I towed the Diesel MJ from Vancouver Island to Michigan with my 91 MJ just before I picked up the Wildernest from you.  So I speak from experience.  And my 91 Comanche has all the correct factory installed equipment to meet the 5000 max tow rating. 

 

Bottom line, you do not want to use an MJ as your tow rig, to tow another MJ on a car trailer.  Be smart, get a properly equipped, half or 3/4 ton pickup.

 

The Comanche brakes and cooling system are not up to the task, period.  Sure you can get away with it for a while.  But they are just no match for a half or 3/4 ton pickup.

[Comanche SS]

Dang, if only I hadn't just gotten my 4L70 built for my LS jeep I'd be all over that T56.

 

Jeep looks pretty sweet! How do you like the Metalcloak coils? Are they the dual-rate ones?

 

I just ordered those for my longarm front build and I'm curious what you think of them

I love the coils, on my old xj I had custom springs made from Eibach, and these outperform them, they are the dual rate and it is true about not bieng able to unseat. I hope you like them and the LA kit

 

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[Comanche SS]

 

Might be a dumb question, does anyone know the relationship between tj and Xj/MJ coil springs? and also, whats a good rule of thumb of lowest I should safely go with long arms? And what is a good towing capacity for a stock MJ VS. mine. Keep in mind it has a Metric tonne package with a d44 geared to 4:10 plus the tranny and engine...

 

I towed the Diesel MJ from Vancouver Island to Michigan with my 91 MJ just before I picked up the Wildernest from you. So I speak from experience. And my 91 Comanche has all the correct factory installed equipment to meet the 5000 max tow rating.

 

Bottom line, you do not want to use an MJ as your tow rig, to tow another MJ on a car trailer. Be smart, get a properly equipped, half or 3/4 ton pickup.

 

The Comanche brakes and cooling system are not up to the task, period. Sure you can get away with it for a while. But they are just no match for a half or 3/4 ton pickup.

Thank you John!

 

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[Comanche SS]

 

 

Just a little dreaming I am doing.

[ggcnash]

I'm in process of ls1 build I'm going with 4.56 gears with 4l60 let me know your rpms are in overdrive with the 4.10's just curious, the calculator says I will be at 2500rpms on OD I'm thinking that I'll be good?

 

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[ggcnash]

Sorry should have said 70 MPh in OD with your 700r4 should be comparable to the 4l60 just curious

 

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[Comanche SS]

Sorry should have said 70 MPh in OD with your 700r4 should be comparable to the 4l60 just curious

 

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my tires are a bit small to make 4:10s as useful as they can be...So i run a little higher than I want to when I get 33-35s. I also don't have the speedo accurately calibrated yet, just one of those things I put off, but I will get an app and give you an estimate soon enough.

[ggcnash]

 

Sorry should have said 70 MPh in OD with your 700r4 should be comparable to the 4l60 just curious

 

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my tires are a bit small to make 4:10s as useful as they can be...So i run a little higher than I want to when I get 33-35s. I also don't have the speedo accurately calibrated yet, just one of those things I put off, but I will get an app and give you an estimate soon enough.

I'm running 32's which I will keep when running the numbers on the chart it says 2500rpm at 70 in OD with 4.56's seems lower than I thought it might be?

 

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[Comanche SS]

 

 

Sorry should have said 70 MPh in OD with your 700r4 should be comparable to the 4l60 just curious

 

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my tires are a bit small to make 4:10s as useful as they can be...So i run a little higher than I want to when I get 33-35s. I also don't have the speedo accurately calibrated yet, just one of those things I put off, but I will get an app and give you an estimate soon enough.

I'm running 32's which I will keep when running the numbers on the chart it says 2500rpm at 70 in OD with 4.56's seems lower than I thought it might be?

 

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I won't know anything definitively until I know my actual speed and can watch RPM's...

[Comanche SS]

Some of you may have noticed a name change for the thread....





 

[Comanche SS]

Getting one thing after another checked off my list. Got exhaust and tool box fixed up. Alignment and rotation done. Getting the yoke to get the front driveshaft back in, new 34in grabbers going on soon. Deciding to go custom tube fenders or glass like my old xj.(tube fender render attached). Gonna be doing something about the axles and suspension once I snag myself a daily mj or 2dr xj.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[Comanche SS]

The SS got two 10 inch subs and an amp today, it now has infinity subs, amp, speakers and an alpine head unit. It sounds good to say the least. It will also be getting a flowmaster on it soon...straight pipes are a bit much while cruising.

 

 

[Crash]

Are your straight pipes all the way back? And why failmaster?

[Comanche SS]

Are your straight pipes all the way back? And why failmaster?

It goes to behind the rear axle, and I just personally like the way Flowmasters sound. I have had 3 different types of MagnaFlow and a thrush, and always found myself wanting my Flowmasters back.

 

On another note, got my center Co sole. Trimmed and back into place, for anyone wanting a write up on this system let me know! I know people have asked about subwoofer and stuff before.

 

 

 

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[Comanche SS]

Found a deal on some General Grabber AT2 set of three for 120$ with 80% tread...pretty dirty so I did a deep entire clean and treatment. Thought id do a small write up.

This is the pic that was posted, as I saw.




Once I got them



Holding up to the comanche before cleaning






Size comaparison...They are 285/75/16 (compared to 265/70/16)



I took a medium duty soft bristle car washing brush and scrubbed light dirt off the surface of the tire first with car wash soap



Next was the hardest plastic brush short of a metal wire one

(repeat two steps above until bare rubber is visible like before)

Bare rubber vs mud baked rubber



first coat of tire shine to clean penetrating dirt and mud (10 mins then wipe off)



second coat of tire shine to polish and set into tire (put in an area where sun beats and lets poores of tires soak in the shine)





I wiped excess off to give it a more natural non shiny look.

Finally before and after














These tires are night and day difference, I have been searching for a good write up to clean baked tires, instead I made my own.

[Comanche SS]

 

Before and after

 

 

 

 

 

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