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project "why can't i leave things alone"


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I started on the passenger side upper radius last night and had it tacked it. I was having some binding issues and it ripped the tacks off the passenger side upper tho. My tacks werent that great either but was still kinda worried. when it broke lose i noticed that the upper would be about an inch or so away from where i originally had it. Flexed it other way and it moved an inch the other way. 

 

Got to reading on radius set ups and finding out this is normal and that metal cloak makes a upper that unlocks which is pretty cool.  I also ran an iron rock set up years ago on a xj and it didnt have the upper on passenger side so might just run the driver side right now and beef it up a lil. Id love to go true 3 link right now but just want to get wheeling and i already welded the crossmember to stiffeners so trying to get in there to weld a new upper on  with drive train in would be a huge pain. 

 

At first i thought my uppers were to long or my lower mount was out to far away from center line of axle and causing this problem but unsure. reason i had to make to uppers cause the rustys ones were not long enough to get the upper mount to the top of axle where i wanted it. 

 

Maybe some gurus on here can shed some light with what they think.

 

here is some pics 

 


 


 


 

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i think I'm going to end up making something like yours because it sit to close to my spring right now. and needs to be moved over about an inch. How u like just bolting it on? i was planning on welding to stiffener

 

its only bolted on for now, I'm going to weld it as well. its nice being able to take it on and off for the time being though haha 

 

originally mine was pretty close to the spring too and after i moved it forward i decided to drill holes for plugs welds since the track bar attaches so far from the bolts now

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started on some steering last night. got my ballistic set up in. my angles look good but tie rod touchs track bar mount on axle just a lil so going to move that and also need to add a couple inches to it. Track bar is 26 and drag link is 31in right now. 

 

Here some basic ideas of what I'm going to run i think with some track bar adjustments. angles look decent


 

no way to double sheer i guess


 


 

shouldnt be banging rocks this hi lol


 

could be my pcv having some curve to it. prolly mess with it a lil tonight to

 


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i need to burn in the upper and get this back on its own feet so i can determine all this at ride height. prollly work on that tonight . Need to move spring perches over the wedges. right now its riding on frame stiffener and just to far in.

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my frame mount for track bar needs to go in toward the spring but its already about touching it and not sure if i go under frame that ill be able to make up the lenght of the track bar to be same as drag link. as u can see in pic it isnt straight and out to far. guessing my axle is pushed out a couple inches.

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I did get to play with jeep a lil last night. Got the axles in and did a full compression and ride height run. looks good i think but still need to figure a few things out with it. 

 

Had to pull the slingers off my other shafts, guess there werent included in my seal kit.


 


 

fully compressed up to where i think ill have bump stops and all looks to clear everything


 

Spool is in and tq for last time 


 

This would be ride height. was just coming off jack stands. looks decent


 

this is some knuckle pics


 

Really trying not to drop this thing into jeep. its my blazer motor i built. 408 ls fully built callies rotating stroker assembly weisco piston, trick flow 235 cc cnc ported head and big cam with all arp studs haha

 


 

I got the spindles on last night and almost back to a roller. going to do my final track back measurements on the ground. 
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Looking good ive done nothing with the bed you sold me other than put it in my storage unit. Oh yeah that reminds me of what I found in there while putting it into storage. All ive done is get mine started again half of exhuast ran, 4.5" lift, and started on wj brakes your smookin me but my tm frame stiffeners are on their way for the short and long box can't wait! Oh and I lost the motor in the long box and my 96 xj had a bad one found that out and my trans went out in 91. So I guess its 91 motor in 96 goodbye 91 and a project I just hate to crush it since its rust free with a factory undercoat.

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Haha whats going on Will. Was wondering the other day if that bed got put to use yet. Sucks about your drivetrain. Those T and M are nice but kinda a pain in the @$$ to install lol. I need to order my short bed portion so i can tie slider into some decent steel behind my cab. lol 

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last night i got to messing with trying to get it back on its feet. Got the hubs all assembled and started on brakes. the damn high steer arm hits on my bonjo bolt on caliper so need to mill some off of it but not alot. 

 

This was a mezzy job. so used to sealed unit bearing front ends lol. The the bearings packed, the inner spindle nut tq to 50 and back off 1/4 turn, lock ring and outer nut tq to 150. seen a bunch of dif method and tq specs on this so hope that is right

 


 

lock outs on


 


 

Then i started to assembly brakes which was a puzzle cause i had no idea how any of this came off so good ole youtube saved me. 

But was trying to get caliper lined up and wasnt going to  i looked at the back side and my damn ballistic histeer arm was hitting. Looking around other dana 44 had the binjo bolt at top mine tucks in by the hi steer. idk if i can swap calipers or just rock this and cut off a lil on arm. don't think itll hurt anything. 


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Got a lil done last night. got the brakes up front all done and lines on. got some hard steering tubes in there now and now on to track bar.

 


 


 

ride height angles/


 


 


 

this is my attempt to move coil perch out a couple inches and stiffing up that inner c on the 44. ill box this all in once i know if i like it or not.

 


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ive been trying to get as much length out of the pan hard to equal the drag link but just not happening. I also having issues with the tie rod hitting heim at the pit man arm at full compression. I adjusted the pinion angle a lil to make it point at the transfer case and when i did that it mess with the drag and tie rod also. Guess its back to the drawling board on this. The Po of the axles made the lower mounts and think it pushed the axle out a few inches also. I can't go out on the frame side using that bracket i have cause itll hit spring and will push it out over drag link, and can't really move the passenger side bracket out because of the spring. trying to get this all perfect is a pain in the @$$ with Hi steer.

 

here some pics of what i did last night. shoes and springs back out for more trial and error

 


 

don't mind this crappy bracket just tried to have something hold rod end


 

 

But u can see here any bracket in front of spring will hit my tie rod. I might try flippng tie rod to bottom of that histeer arm or putting heim at top of pitman arm


 


 


 


 

Idk what I'm going to try tonight. maybe flipping those parts or putting under frame bracket on and see where that goes.  as of now the track bar is 4" shorter than the drag link. I plan on doing hydro assist so that might not be a problem but its still a band aid. Might try making a bracket that will squeeze the track bar in front of the spring on passenger side and go from there. 

 

thanks

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messed with track bar some and maybe getting somewhere. The more and more i think about this the more i want to go ORI or air shocks. this rig will be driving on street but not often. 

The room id have with air shocks would fix my track bar length issues 
 
 
this is with 36s 
 
i modified that outside track bar mount to it goes under unibody 
 
hits there but can't adjust bump stop so it doesnt go this high possibly
 
this is were track bar should land if i kept the same 36" drag link length 
 
 
flipped the tie rod to  check clearance on everything and all seems good this way
 
 
 
i have not moved the steering box yet but will if i keep having issues with clearance.
 
This is my first time doing any of this so pretty much open for any ideas to assist me. I want it all to be done right the first time and want to keep it as reliable as possible 
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Well i think i got everything in there. Equal length and same angle track bar and drag link. need to do some final testing and then weld the crap out of it. If coils bind or hit I'm going Air shocks, here is some pics

 


 


 


 

looks so good u can't even tell it has a track bar. now if only it all works together lol


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last night i went out to the garage and messed with track bar more.  Got the DOM track bar tacked in and made some flex and stop to stop clearance checks. all looks good so far. 

 

this is ride height .8 degree off between track bar and drag link at equal lengths 


 

compressed clears nicely


 


 


 

track bar bracket needs a lil love but will work cause I'm not using bottom hole


 

passenger drop

 


 

turned to stop small issue at coil perch but grinder will fix that

 


 

drooped flex all good. no more pit man arm contact 


 

 

overall i think this is going to work. going to start welded all my brackets and make bump stops and coil mounts and shock mounts. pretty happy with this set up. 

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Well i got my steering and track bar links all welded up. now just need to drill the pit man arm and weld up the brackets for track bar. making some tiny progress been to damn cold in illinois

 


 


 

damn i need to push jeep out and clean lol 

 


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Nice. its been a fun build can't wait to take it places. and Ya been looking for a ls myself. almost picked up a 6.0 few weeks ago. got some bad @$$ steering parts instead hah. Novak makes the swap real nice. I have a buddy building a turbo 5.3 2wd 2 door right now. so hoping hes done before I'm ready so i can steal some of the swap ideas haha. 

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 hoping to be driving it soon. Going on  a small trip to texas for the holiday so tonight will be the last of progress this year haha.  I did start beefing up the track bar mount some still need to weld on the wedge area. Guess i need to heat it up to help it burn in. so gotta borrow a torch. but here is some pics

 

still need welded at bottom and maybe something to extend it to help with side load stress.


 

 


 


 

pretty happy with the way it turned out. got pretty decent at making paper templates lol

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