Has anyone tried the D44 disc kits?

[Bonkers]

Was thinking about swapping the drums

on my D44 out for discs. Ive gotten a

headache trying to decipher which is

the right and wrong way to add junkyard

calipers to the Mj. Ive noticed a couple

of places have complete kits for the Xj

D44 (Teraflex comes to mind) - would

these work? Has anyone given them a try?

[mikekaz1]

as for junkyard finds I know people swap ford 8.8 brakes and zj disk brakes  as they are nearly identical. but has an issue with centers being too small to pass the bearing through and needing to be filed, but other then that it seems pretty straight forward. also a possibility of a liberty 8.25 working as they are disk brakes.   if you wanted to catalog buy them you could essentially buy all the replacement parts for a TJ44 and have everything perfect bolt on and new.  

 

a big problem I find with the teraflex kits and others, is many use "oneoff" parts, so replacement rotors and what not aren't part store specials, you have to buy them from the kit company

[75sv1]

Might look at the ISUZU Trooper or Rodeo, and Honda Pilot rear ends. They are a Dana 44, and some or most have rear disk brakes. I do not know if the fit other D44s. I though some of the GC had a D44, but an aluminum housing.

[DirtyComanche]

if you wanted to catalog buy them you could essentially buy all the replacement parts for a TJ44 and have everything perfect bolt on and new.  

 

That seems like a reasonable idea. 

 

I'm also not a fan of kits that use one-off parts or wear pieces that aren't available easily, it will leave you in a bind down the road.

[HOrnbrod]

 

a big problem I find with the teraflex kits and others, is many use "oneoff" parts, so replacement rotors and what not aren't part store specials, you have to buy them from the kit company

 

I'm also not a fan of kits that use one-off parts or wear pieces that aren't available easily, it will leave you in a bind down the road.

 

Not even close to true. I've had the Teraflex conversion kit on my D44 for many years. The only proprietary Teraflex parts are the backing plates. The kit rotors are the same as the ~05 era Jeep Wrangler Rubis and the disk brake pads are from the ~99 era Ford Explorers. I replaced both rotors and pads at least once using the Jeep and Ford parts and they are the same. So all you need from Teraflex to build your own rear disk brake kit are their backing plates and the correct preload spacers for your particular D30 or D44 axle. The D35 non-c-clip and D44 use the same backing plates; the D30 c-clip axle plates are different. I did this when I swapped my existing Teraflex rear disks from a D35 c-clip axle to my current D44. IIRC the L & R backing plates were around $75/ea. and the spacers were a couple of bucks each.

[Bonkers]

if you wanted to catalog buy them you could

essentially buy all the replacement parts

for a TJ44 and have everything perfect bolt

on and new.

I read both the Zj and Tj swaps require

modification of several parts to work with

the Mj rear? Are you saying differently?

 

Its not so much the cost new or used, right

no i simply don't have time to dick around

with hunting parts and modifying them to

work. If i could buy all the peices id be

great with that.

[DirtyComanche]

 

 

a big problem I find with the teraflex kits and others, is many use "oneoff" parts, so replacement rotors and what not aren't part store specials, you have to buy them from the kit company

 

I'm also not a fan of kits that use one-off parts or wear pieces that aren't available easily, it will leave you in a bind down the road.

 

Not even close to true. I've had the Teraflex conversion kit on my D44 for many years. The only proprietary Teraflex parts are the backing plates. The kit rotors are the same as the ~05 era Jeep Wrangler Rubis and the disk brake pads are from the ~99 era Ford Explorers. I replaced both rotors and pads at least once using the Jeep and Ford parts and they are the same. So all you need from Teraflex to build your own rear disk brake kit are their backing plates and the correct preload spacers for your particular D30 or D44 axle. The D35 non-c-clip and D44 use the same backing plates; the D30 c-clip axle plates are different. I did this when I swapped my existing Teraflex rear disks from a D35 c-clip axle to my current D44. IIRC the L & R backing plates were around $75/ea. and the spacers were a couple of bucks each.

 

 

I didn't quote part of his post for a reason.  In retrospect it does seem like I was talking about the Teraflex kit.  Oops, wasn't really thinking about it, since it was posted before that the TJ backing plates don't work without modification, so there's nothing to be saved going that route.

 

 

As a total aside, does anyone know what the Isuzu D44 brakes look like?  Do they look like the Isuzu 12 Bolt ones?  The 12 Bolt ones are not drum in hat, they're like the Cadillac Eldorado calipers with a lever on the side of them to actuate them manually.  I have some spare 12 Bolt stuff around since it is worth less than scrap price, it might be interesting to look at if the rotor thickness is the same as the TJ or something else that's 5x4.5.

[mikekaz1]

 

if you wanted to catalog buy them you could

essentially buy all the replacement parts

for a TJ44 and have everything perfect bolt

on and new.

I read both the Zj and Tj swaps require

modification of several parts to work with

the Mj rear? Are you saying differently?

 

Its not so much the cost new or used, right

no i simply don't have time to dick around

with hunting parts and modifying them to

work. If i could buy all the peices id be

great with that.

I've always been under the impression it's only when using the more readily available zj d35 backing plates and bracket that need to be enlarged to fit the larger seal and bearing of the mj44. I would assume the TJ 44 would already be the correct size to fit a mj44 shaft and bearing

[75sv1]

I have an ISUZU Rodeo or Trooper axle at home. It uses an internal drum brake like the Ford 8.8, KJ (?), MB 123. The cables have a regular drum brake end. Not sure if I have time to take dimensions on other stuff. Give me what dimensions are needed and I'll try.

[cruiser54]

ZJ to Dana 35 or Chryco 8.25 is a walk in the park.

 

Dana 44 to disc not nearly as simple. 

[ggcnash]

Teraflex kit installed one on dad's D44 everything HB stated is spot on nothing in it is special except backing plates which can be fabbed but why would be my question? Everything else can be purchased at your local parts store in 20 yrs if you still breathing good luck

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[ggcnash]

If interested here is a link a guy used Ford Explorer stuff and parts from teraflex

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=967146

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[ggcnash]

The reason I don't like the idea of that way to go is the fact if you ever need rotors your gonna need to grind out center hole again

 

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[DirtyComanche]

I have an ISUZU Rodeo or Trooper axle at home. It uses an internal drum brake like the Ford 8.8, KJ (?), MB 123. The cables have a regular drum brake end. Not sure if I have time to take dimensions on other stuff. Give me what dimensions are needed and I'll try.

If they're drum-in-hat I don't care.

[HOrnbrod]

ZJ to Dana 35 or Chryco 8.25 is a walk in the park.

 

Dana 44 to disc not nearly as simple. 

 

Disk brake conversion is the same process for both axles. The only major difference is in adapting the backing plates to your particular axle flange.

 

[Megadan]

Might look at the ISUZU Trooper or Rodeo, and Honda Pilot rear ends. They are a Dana 44, and some or most have rear disk brakes. I do not know if the fit other D44s. I though some of the GC had a D44, but an aluminum housing.

Rodeo axle ends are way too different, and the rotors are 6 lug.  The tabs are part of the housing end, and the bearing retainer flange is different.  The caliper mount is cast in as part of the housing end and not removable without cutting it off the tube.  So unless you wanted to swap the whole axle over to get disc brakes, it would be far more effort than it's worth.

 

I know all of this, because the Dana 44 I shortened for my project car came off a 97 Passport (Rodeo)

 

Picture for reference.  

[75sv1]

Any input on dics on an AMC 20? I have seen swaps, but have to make plates.

Also, all the other swaps are with drum inners.

[cruiser54]

 

ZJ to Dana 35 or Chryco 8.25 is a walk in the park.

 

Dana 44 to disc not nearly as simple. 

 

Disk brake conversion is the same process for both axles. The only major difference is in adapting the backing plates to your particular axle flange.

 

 

What about some spacers for the bearings? 

[HOrnbrod]

All the axles converted from drum to disk brakes will need preload spacers for the wheel bearing seals because the backing plates are nowhere near the thickness of the caliper brackets. Unless you don't mind them leaking.  :yes:

[cruiser54]

35 and 8.25 don't leak without spacers. I've run them for years. 

[HOrnbrod]

If you say so.........

[cruiser54]

If you say so.........

Seriously. 44 is the only one that needs spacers etc. 

[Rockfrog]

Both the 44 and the D35 non C-clip will require spacers. The D35 C-clip, and 8.25 do not.

The C-clip axle don't use spacers to begin with. The spacers are only there to add proper preload to the seal, something the 44 and non C-clip 35 require as the seal and bearing are retained on the axle shaft.

The 8.25 and C-clip 35 have press in seals and bearings retained in the axle housing, so the backing plates do nothing to retain the seal or bearing.

In fact when installed, both the drum and disk backing plates do not even touch the seal or bearing on the 8.25, adding a spacers would merely change the position of the rotor. Which is not required for the c-clip style axles.

The non c-clip axles however require the retainer plate to apply proper preload on the bearing and seal which is messed up by using the wrong thickness of backing for the retainer on the axle (the later disc brake D44 used a different retainer than the drum D44).

And I can assure you Cruiser is quite correct about the 8.25 (and the c-clip 35)... Mine hasn't leaked in 3yrs, and there is no retainer plate to add a spacer to in any event.

 

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[cruiser54]

Both the 44 and the D35 non C-clip will require spacers. The D35 C-clip, and 8.25 do not.

The C-clip axle don't use spacers to begin with. The spacers are only there to add proper preload to the seal, something the 44 and non C-clip 35 require as the seal and bearing are retained on the axle shaft.

The 8.25 and C-clip 35 have press in seals and bearings retained in the axle housing, so the backing plates do nothing to retain the seal or bearing.

In fact when installed, both the drum and disk backing plates do not even touch the seal or bearing on the 8.25, adding a spacers would merely change the position of the rotor. Which is not required for the c-clip style axles.

The non c-clip axles however require the retainer plate to apply proper preload on the bearing and seal which is messed up by using the wrong thickness of backing for the retainer on the axle (the later disc brake D44 used a different retainer than the drum D44).

And I can assure you Cruiser is quite correct about the 8.25 (and the c-clip 35)... Mine hasn't leaked in 3yrs, and there is no retainer plate to add a spacer to in any event.

 

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Thanks for the clarification. Pics below.

 

[HOrnbrod]

Yep, no axle retainer plates in the D35 C-clip or 8.25, thus no need for the spacer for these axles. Cruiser's pics and Rockfrog's detailed text rang my bell - been awhile since the D35 c-clip conversion. Thanks guys for the clarification, my bad 100%.   :bowdown: