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Looking for opinions - Rear axle.


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Just wanted to add that I have been running the stock shafts in my 8.25 since new in 2000 (bought it bone stock in 2002, you know back when XJ's had value).

Another plus for them is ... Both shafts are the same. Only one is needed to be carried if you wanted to carry a spare.

 

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See that's where we're different... I'm still running the 300,000 mile original springs and they need replacing. I was really only wanting around 3-4" lift, and not planning to do more than longer front arms. I also don't want anything bigger than 33x10.5's, 32 if I can find them in a severe-snow rated AT (want to keep the stock wheels), and at 5" that's getting a bit much.

Check BFG. Their AT/KO's used to come in 32's and 33x10's. Maybe their KO2 is still made in those sizes.

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Not a big fan of the KO2. They put them on all the 4x4 trucks at work and they don't do so well on gravel. Keep getting rocks pushed through them... But I haven't found them (or anything else) in a 32x10.5 yet, and they're the only ones I've found so far in a 33x10.5. If I've got my lift and axles sorted out before someone comes out with a 32, I think I may end up going with the 33's. My current tires still have lots of life left in them so it's not hugely urgent.

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Traditional wisdom is that your tire width shouldn't exceed 150% of wheel width. On a 7" rim that works out to 10.5". There are a couple 32x11.5 options (Grabber AT2 for one) but it's pushing limits. Perhaps a modern tire would be more tolerant of a narrower rim? But at the same time I don't want it to look too much like a balloon, which I think I'd be risking. And a wider tire isn't always better for snow.

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I have yet to see a tire manufacturer spec anything wider for a 7" rim than a 10.5. Sure, there are factors of safety and litigation reasons and all kinds of stuff to push recommended numbers lower than what you might be able to get away with, but those numbers have to come from somewhere, and very few companies wouldn't jump at the chance of gaining a slight edge over the competition by widening their specs if there was nothing wrong with doing it.

Yes I realize most people would either suck it up and get new wheels or ignore it and just run the wide tires, but when every single manufacturer is using the same specs... Those numbers don't just come from nowhere.

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Yeah. 32x9.5 might be getting a little too pizza-cuttery for me, partly why I'm not hugely keen on the 33x10.5's.

As to wheel choice, I only have the D-windows or whatever they're properly called, but I haven't seen anything I like better yet. Not even the turbines or Eliminator wheels. Maybe the ZJ snowflake wheels, but those are still a 15x7 as well.

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I've been beating the piss out of my stock (albeit regeared) 8.25 for years, last three on 35's. Never let me down.

I ran one in my XJ and then put it in my MJ. Beat the snot out of it with a stroker motor and 35's with an ARB. I never had a single issue, I did upgrade to chromolly shafts after a few years, just for piece of mind.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, this thread and question just became more poignant after doing a diff oil change today.  Front was fine, but the rear is now number 1 on my priority list. The fluid came out with some glitter to it, and when I wiped out the housing the rag looked like I just wiped up small confetti.  It's not making any noises yet, but i now know it's only a matter of time.  Hopefully the Redline 75w-90 Synthetic I pumped in there will buy it a little more life, but if I don't hear back from this guy soon I am going to go pick up whatever I can find that suits my needs.

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I've been beating the piss out of my stock (albeit regeared) 8.25 for years, last three on 35's. Never let me down.

I ran one in my XJ and then put it in my MJ. Beat the snot out of it with a stroker motor and 35's with an ARB. I never had a single issue, I did upgrade to chromolly shafts after a few years, just for piece of mind.

Pretty much my exact report. My axle was built over a decade ago with 4.56s and an ARB. It's run 35s most of its life, now on Hutchinson bead locks and 34in tires. No worries.

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After my D35 started showing problems (with stock sized tires) I upgraded to a 99 8.25". It lived with me through 33s, then 35s, then locked on 35s. Trying to climb a steep ledge I ended up doing a rear wheel stand, while bouncing due to spring wrap. On the third or fourth bounce the driveshaft gave up and twisted in half like a pop can. The axle survived that stunt just fine with stock shafts. I ran it like that for three years before I went to one tons.

 

As for disk brakes, the 8.25" came with disk brakes under the KJ Liberty, so brakes off one of them should be bolt on. You can also get the disk brakes that were optional on 93-98 ZJ Grand Cherokees and drill the center hole out to 3". The backing plates will bolt on to the 8.25" flange without any other modification, that is what I ran after I got tires of my drum brakes being eaten up by sand from my then favorite off road park. It took me two months to go from brand new shoes to metal. The junk yard brake pads (granted, they were ceramic) I got with my disk brakes lasted more than 2 years.

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