Rockfrog Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Just wanted to add that I have been running the stock shafts in my 8.25 since new in 2000 (bought it bone stock in 2002, you know back when XJ's had value). Another plus for them is ... Both shafts are the same. Only one is needed to be carried if you wanted to carry a spare. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekaz1 Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Just to give you a ball park. Since I'm running pretty much what you just described. 3" HD coils upfront. Hell creek Metric ton out back with a 1"shackle. 33" tires and Napier flares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 You sir, just made my decision harder. I like how your truck sits. I hate choosing lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjy_26 Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 See that's where we're different... I'm still running the 300,000 mile original springs and they need replacing. I was really only wanting around 3-4" lift, and not planning to do more than longer front arms. I also don't want anything bigger than 33x10.5's, 32 if I can find them in a severe-snow rated AT (want to keep the stock wheels), and at 5" that's getting a bit much. Check BFG. Their AT/KO's used to come in 32's and 33x10's. Maybe their KO2 is still made in those sizes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Not a big fan of the KO2. They put them on all the 4x4 trucks at work and they don't do so well on gravel. Keep getting rocks pushed through them... But I haven't found them (or anything else) in a 32x10.5 yet, and they're the only ones I've found so far in a 33x10.5. If I've got my lift and axles sorted out before someone comes out with a 32, I think I may end up going with the 33's. My current tires still have lots of life left in them so it's not hugely urgent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 If you open up to an 11.5 wide tire, your options for a 32 are much higher. Would that extra inch of width be that big of an issue for your truck/build? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Traditional wisdom is that your tire width shouldn't exceed 150% of wheel width. On a 7" rim that works out to 10.5". There are a couple 32x11.5 options (Grabber AT2 for one) but it's pushing limits. Perhaps a modern tire would be more tolerant of a narrower rim? But at the same time I don't want it to look too much like a balloon, which I think I'd be risking. And a wider tire isn't always better for snow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjy_26 Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schardein Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 I ran BFG MT 32x11.50s on factory 15x7 rims on a CJ7 and 30x9.50 tires on 5.5" wide rims on a CJ5 for years without issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 I have yet to see a tire manufacturer spec anything wider for a 7" rim than a 10.5. Sure, there are factors of safety and litigation reasons and all kinds of stuff to push recommended numbers lower than what you might be able to get away with, but those numbers have to come from somewhere, and very few companies wouldn't jump at the chance of gaining a slight edge over the competition by widening their specs if there was nothing wrong with doing it. Yes I realize most people would either suck it up and get new wheels or ignore it and just run the wide tires, but when every single manufacturer is using the same specs... Those numbers don't just come from nowhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 I've been looking for 32 x 10.5 all-season tires too - no joy. The only thing I've found are mud and off-road stuff. Dick Cepek, Mickey Thompson, Super Swamper, etc................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 About the only way I can see to open up a lot of tire choices in a 32x10.5 size is to step up to a 16" wheel. Then you have boundless options in 265/75-16 sizes, which are bascially 32x10.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 That would mean getting rid of my turbine wheels. Don't want to do that........... 32x9.5x15 tires would be even better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Yeah. 32x9.5 might be getting a little too pizza-cuttery for me, partly why I'm not hugely keen on the 33x10.5's. As to wheel choice, I only have the D-windows or whatever they're properly called, but I haven't seen anything I like better yet. Not even the turbines or Eliminator wheels. Maybe the ZJ snowflake wheels, but those are still a 15x7 as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekaz1 Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 I love my 235/85r16 pizza cutters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjy_26 Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 FWIW, the TJ Canyons and Grizzlies I believe were 15x8's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue XJ Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 I've been beating the piss out of my stock (albeit regeared) 8.25 for years, last three on 35's. Never let me down. I ran one in my XJ and then put it in my MJ. Beat the snot out of it with a stroker motor and 35's with an ARB. I never had a single issue, I did upgrade to chromolly shafts after a few years, just for piece of mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Well, this thread and question just became more poignant after doing a diff oil change today. Front was fine, but the rear is now number 1 on my priority list. The fluid came out with some glitter to it, and when I wiped out the housing the rag looked like I just wiped up small confetti. It's not making any noises yet, but i now know it's only a matter of time. Hopefully the Redline 75w-90 Synthetic I pumped in there will buy it a little more life, but if I don't hear back from this guy soon I am going to go pick up whatever I can find that suits my needs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xjrev10 Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 I've been beating the piss out of my stock (albeit regeared) 8.25 for years, last three on 35's. Never let me down. I ran one in my XJ and then put it in my MJ. Beat the snot out of it with a stroker motor and 35's with an ARB. I never had a single issue, I did upgrade to chromolly shafts after a few years, just for piece of mind. Pretty much my exact report. My axle was built over a decade ago with 4.56s and an ARB. It's run 35s most of its life, now on Hutchinson bead locks and 34in tires. No worries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 After my D35 started showing problems (with stock sized tires) I upgraded to a 99 8.25". It lived with me through 33s, then 35s, then locked on 35s. Trying to climb a steep ledge I ended up doing a rear wheel stand, while bouncing due to spring wrap. On the third or fourth bounce the driveshaft gave up and twisted in half like a pop can. The axle survived that stunt just fine with stock shafts. I ran it like that for three years before I went to one tons. As for disk brakes, the 8.25" came with disk brakes under the KJ Liberty, so brakes off one of them should be bolt on. You can also get the disk brakes that were optional on 93-98 ZJ Grand Cherokees and drill the center hole out to 3". The backing plates will bolt on to the 8.25" flange without any other modification, that is what I ran after I got tires of my drum brakes being eaten up by sand from my then favorite off road park. It took me two months to go from brand new shoes to metal. The junk yard brake pads (granted, they were ceramic) I got with my disk brakes lasted more than 2 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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