JeeperjohnfromPA Posted June 25, 2007 Author Share Posted June 25, 2007 Well seems that a welder worth owning isn't in my budget for the near future. :cry: I'm gonna try getting a new pack of welding rods for the arc welder I mentioned earlier in this post. See what I can do with that, maybe atleast I can weld some sheet metal for the cab floor. I'll have to see If the Brother of this guy I know can make a house call for the heavier stuff on the frame. If not I'll rent one. Just can't afford to layout $500+ at this time... Thanks again for all the advice/input. You all rock! :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 Home Depot rents MIG welders. Flux-core only I think. FLUX CORE IS NOT MIG! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 I'm gonna try getting a new pack of welding rods for the arc welder I mentioned earlier in this post. See what I can do with that, maybe atleast I can weld some sheet metal for the cab floor. Sheet metal for the floor is probably the only thing you CAN'T weld with an old stick welder. They're fine for heavier stuff, but you probably won't be able to avoid burning through sheet metal. If that's what you want to try, be sure to explain to the guy at the welding supply shop what you'll be welding and have him tell you what sticks to buy, and what power setting to use. Use big sticks and high power and you'll blow right through sheet metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86FUBAR Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 IF its not mig then what is it :hmm: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twisty Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 MIG stands for Metal Inert Gas. MIG welding is when you use a shielding gas that consists of a combination of argon and CO2. When using flux core wire, you are using a wire feed welder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86FUBAR Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 o i know that its just the big red lettering made me think he knew somthn i didnt/ i was just curious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 MIG stands for Metal Inert Gas. MIG welding is when you use a shielding gas that consists of a combination of argon and CO2. When using flux core wire, you are using a wire feed welder. Thank you. Beat me to it, but that's the answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 The actually core flux core wire welding FCAW ( flux core arc welding) Most ppl think of it as "MIG" welding cause they are often used on the same style welding machine. MOst of the flux core machines are 110v and only suitable for sheetmetal, light steel welding. Since you have to chip slag, you might as well use a stick welder. As Eagle pointed out they make welding rods for everything, and I am sure they have a rod that can do sheetmetal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 6013 works for sheetmetal. There is other rod that works well (better probably), but it's harder to come by. 6013 can be had anywhere. The trick is to use small rod and low heat. If you're trying to do a bunch of spot welds, pilot the hole in the top peice first with a small (1/16~) drill bit. Then make sure it is clamped damn tight. If there's any gap at all you'll be screwed. Then it's just a matter of striking an arc and holding it to the hole for a couple seconds. YMMV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 I loved my Lincoln till these last two months. I dunno what model it is, but it's 220v, I think the WeldPack175 or something. It did great on everything but sheetmetal because I run such thick wire and it doesn't turn down enough. My only issue is this recent one where my wire speed has become inconsistent and the heat becomes inconsistent. It feels like someone's turning the knobs as I weld. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 6013 works for sheetmetal. There is other rod that works well (better probably), but it's harder to come by. 6013 can be had anywhere. The trick is to use small rod and low heat. If you're trying to do a bunch of spot welds, pilot the hole in the top peice first with a small (1/16~) drill bit. Then make sure it is clamped damn tight. If there's any gap at all you'll be screwed. Then it's just a matter of striking an arc and holding it to the hole for a couple seconds. YMMV. the easy way to eliminate gaps and to drill holes at the same time it to secure the floor using sheetmetal screws. Works great. It really does eliminate fitting problems and gaps in metal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeeperjohnfromPA Posted June 26, 2007 Author Share Posted June 26, 2007 OK I took Eagle's advice. I looked up a local welding gas and supply shop. I went there, talked with the guy a bit, got a few pointers and a 5lb box of 1/8th rods, 45-80amp. was only $17and change. So it took me a bit to get the setting right on the welder. It took me a bit to get the technique down. The welds aren't pretty but they seem strong enough. Geuss the other rods were just too old/crumy. Yes, Eagle is right it's hard to do sheet metal with an arc welder, as it's too easy to burn a hole through the sheet metal. However, I had fabricated a couple of pieces to patch the floor in the cab, these pieces have about 1" overlap with existing metal, so when I did burn through here and there, it didn't matter Being as I never used an Arc welder before, I'd say I'm rocking now! Thanks everyone for your advice/opinions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 I know, you got to use what ya got :D But one tip, if you can get a Copper backing plate (alumium will work in a pinch) the plate will displace the heat, and help with burn thru, plus, if you burn thru, you can fill on top of the copper, as weld will not stick to the copper plate. I know it's not posible to get to the back side of every weld, but over all, it will help you, and if your doing over lay work, drill/punch some holes in the new piece, and "plug" weld it to the piece under, this will help you get the piece set, and aligned. Plus, do short, 1/2" - 1" runs, and jump around the piece to help with distortion. For other tips, check out this site- But this link is kind of what your doing- http://www.autobodystore.com/door_rust.htm And we want to see PICTURES when your done ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeeperjohnfromPA Posted June 26, 2007 Author Share Posted June 26, 2007 Yes, I'll definately put up some pictures. 8) Thanks for the copper backing plate idea, might come in useful, I have a decent sized piece of Brass that should work too? Can't wait to get home today, crack open a beer and get a couple more welds done. This Comanche needs to be road ready ASAP. Mainly so I can take my YJ down for some much needed repairs, ( rear springs are VERY tired and need the add a leaf kit I bought a couple years ago installed! Not to mention some gaskets, etc, etc, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 1/8 rod :eek: I am suprised he didnt recommend some 3/32 rod I know it isnt much smaller but requires less heat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeeperjohnfromPA Posted June 27, 2007 Author Share Posted June 27, 2007 Actualy the guy recomended 3/32 or 1/8. :smart: From the conversation we had, I gathered that the 1/8th rod might be a bit better when I actualy started on the frame. Did I few more welds last night. perfecting my technique. :brows: :cheers: Wife is into this truck. She is actualy letting me work on it at night when I get home!, (she sure must wanna drive it!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 yeah on the frame it will be.. on sheet metal well it might be too big. Make sure you store your rods so they stay dry... by a plastic rod holder, or get an old tool box and put a 60 watt light bulb in it and turn it on for a few hours before you go to weld... it evaporates the moisture in the rods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Toaster ovens work great for drying rod. Just don't let the lady catch you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJCanadian Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 I'm Using a 90amp Cannox Firefly MIG with Flux Core wire, I was too cheap to buy gas and its my dad's welder, he doesn't use it. I find its working perfect for my floorpans. I'm putting in 24guage and it is tricky to control the heat, sometimes theres not enough when its spitting and kicking and at other times it will burn right through. You just have to play around with the voltage setting. The welds are impossible to make look good, but for welding on the cheap and to just put in floor pans in MIG with Flux Core is pretty resonable. Oh and I havn't tripped on breaker yet 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Yes, Eagle is right it's hard to do sheet metal with an arc welder, as it's too easy to burn a hole through the sheet metal. However, I had fabricated a couple of pieces to patch the floor in the cab, these pieces have about 1" overlap with existing metal, so when I did burn through here and there, it didn't matter John, that overlap is a mixed blessing. Assuming that you are welding from the top, you are leaving an open seam on the bottom, and that's going to attract dirst and moisture -- and in PA, salt in the winter. Before you get the truck back on the road, I strongly suggest you get underneath and seal all those edges with caulk. Otherwise, you'll be practicing your welding skills again in a very short while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeeperjohnfromPA Posted June 28, 2007 Author Share Posted June 28, 2007 I strongly suggest you get underneath and seal all those edges with caulk. Otherwise, you'll be practicing your welding skills again in a very short while. Oh yeah Eagle Don't I know it! :headpop: I had figured on giving it a coat of paint, then sealing it up with some realy thick roofing tar, or maybe some sort of caulk. Any suggestions on what to use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Try to use something that cures and turns hard (and does so in a reasonable amount of time). The roofing tar I used in my 88 is still soft and sticky even now. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche-man22 Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 6013 works for sheetmetal. There is other rod that works well (better probably), but it's harder to come by. 6013 can be had anywhere. The trick is to use small rod and low heat. If you're trying to do a bunch of spot welds, pilot the hole in the top peice first with a small (1/16~) drill bit. Then make sure it is clamped damn tight. If there's any gap at all you'll be screwed. Then it's just a matter of striking an arc and holding it to the hole for a couple seconds. YMMV. i have used 6013 like twice for sheet metal i use 6011 instead. and of course i live in oregon and that is the easiest thing to come by here but whatever works i guess! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 I strongly suggest you get underneath and seal all those edges with caulk. Otherwise, you'll be practicing your welding skills again in a very short while. Oh yeah Eagle Don't I know it! :headpop: I had figured on giving it a coat of paint, then sealing it up with some realy thick roofing tar, or maybe some sort of caulk. Any suggestions on what to use? Would be a good job for POR 15 ;) But for some type of caulk, use a Polyurethane base material, sticks to anything and everything, dries simi-hard, and still flexable, and will out last, well, everything. You can pick some up at any big box home center. And color's too :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 6013 works for sheetmetal. There is other rod that works well (better probably), but it's harder to come by. 6013 can be had anywhere. The trick is to use small rod and low heat. If you're trying to do a bunch of spot welds, pilot the hole in the top peice first with a small (1/16~) drill bit. Then make sure it is clamped damn tight. If there's any gap at all you'll be screwed. Then it's just a matter of striking an arc and holding it to the hole for a couple seconds. YMMV. i have used 6013 like twice for sheet metal i use 6011 instead. and of course i live in oregon and that is the easiest thing to come by here but whatever works i guess! 6011 penetrates much deeper than 6013. 6013 is ment for low-strength applications in the flat position. So, it works pretty well for welding in floors and not a lot else. But, it is a lot about what you're comfortable with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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