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Door Hinge Pins


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Doing a little work on Mosby and noticed that when I close the door it lifts up on the latch pin.  Tells me either the door hinge pins or the holes in the hinges are worn.  I'm hoping it's the pins as that should be an easier fix IF pins are available.

Does anyone know of a source for the pins?  Has anyone had this problem and how did you fix it?

 

BTW - just put a Grand Cherokee door seal on the driver's side.  The seals are very close in overall length (I had to cut about 3/4" from the GC seal to fit in the MJ opening) but the GC seals have a thicker cross section.  Not sure if the seals were from a WJ or ZJ (pulled them a good while and I suffer from CRS).  Closing the door now requires a FIRM pull to get it to latch.  I'll try to post a side by side photo when I do the passenger side.   

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The part number is 4638276 Fred. Still available on-line from several sources but they look like they are $25-$30 each.  :eek:

 

I replaced some worn out door pins on an old 93 XJ I had years ago using 1/4" stainless bolts. They worked great.

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I had the same issue with our jeeps.

Just go to the local pull it or person parting out on C/L and get the REAR door pin brackets, pins and the 'holding' arm assy in the door.

 

Since they don't get used that much, it tightens up everything. And while you're in there, grease it all up with a water resistant grease.

 

OR if that's not an option for you, drill out what's left of the hole in holder and arm and drop in a short 1/4" bolt.

Since 1/4 is a bit bigger than the 10mm, that 'should' tighten it up too. Also, if the pin is worn some, you can pop it out and widen it with an awl some and drive it in upside down.

 

(maybe that would be a good thing to stockpile from the pull it's)

 

Errol

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  • 3 months later...
I replaced some worn out door pins on an old 93 XJ I had years ago using 1/4" stainless bolts. They worked great.

 

That.  Cheap, effective, available locally, and less likely to break than the OEM style roll pins.

 

 

Or, if one was interested, now would be the time to do quick release hinges.  I have them on my XJ just so I can get the doors off for maintenance.

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My hinge pins aren't roll pins. They have a flat head about 1/16" thick. I've tried driving the lower driver's side pin out from below with no joy. There's not enough room to get a drill to it. Might be able to drill it if I took the door off, but that's not gonna happen.

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My hinge pins aren't roll pins. They have a flat head about 1/16" thick. I've tried driving the lower driver's side pin out from below with no joy. There's not enough room to get a drill to it. Might be able to drill it if I took the door off, but that's not gonna happen.

That's too bad.

 

Grind the head off with a die grinder. A rolock pad with 40 grit would make quick work of it. Get a good 1/4" pin punch and a little 2lb sledge and go at it from the top. Dousing the hinge with oil and working the door back and forth while doing this will help.

 

Otherwise, pull the doors. It's not a big deal. Just make sure you have a good quality torx bit that goes on a ratchet. They will be much easier to drive out with the doors off since the hinge is unloaded and you have more room.

 

That's me, YMMV.

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I do have the roll pins... every attempt I've tried to remove them though has failed.... anyone have tricks or advice to doing this?

See my last post. You just don't have to do anything to the head. Don't be afraid to use a BFH. I've had more than a few of the roll pins come out in pieces...

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Subscribed, my driver side hinge pins are worn out also. I've thought about going to the JY and grabbing some door shims from another XJ and slipping them into the bottom hinge to buy me some time, I figure it will tilt the door in the right direction and get a bit of the load off of the top hinge for now. 

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Subscribed, my driver side hinge pins are worn out also. I've thought about going to the JY and grabbing some door shims from another XJ and slipping them into the bottom hinge to buy me some time, I figure it will tilt the door in the right direction and get a bit of the load off of the top hinge for now. 

 

If you're going to break the Torx that hold the door on free, you might as well back them right out and fix the hinge properly.  The longer you leave the messed up hinge pins in, the harder they are to remove.

 

Just make sure the Torx are clean and you use a good bit when you go to take them out.  If things look crusty, you might want to pull the door panel and feed some WD-40 or equivalent onto the threads from the inside of the door.  Personally I've found they always come out, eventually.

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