Strokermjcomanche Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 While driving my 99 xj today I started to feel a vibration like the exhaust was hitting the crossmember . When I came home I got up underneath to look and noticed the engine was tilted quite a bit , so I figured I needed a new mount . Well I thought wrong ... The three bolts that thread in the boss' circled in the pic all sheared clean off in the block . Anyone have this happen ? I've owned this since it had 36k miles on it and never messed with these bolts at all . I'm wondering if I can even get a drill up there to drill out the old bolts and tap threads for new ones . Any help is always appreciated .
Paul Bruchal Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 I would think Lowes or Home Depot would have a kit for this case. To grip the broken bolts enough to get them out.
shelbyluvv Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 It happens pretty often. I jumped a XJ once and broke the bosses off the block. There is a motor mount vendor that has a plate that pulls in a few more mounting points. Once I remember who it was I'll link it.
Strokermjcomanche Posted October 10, 2015 Author Posted October 10, 2015 I would think Lowes or Home Depot would have a kit for this case. To grip the broken bolts enough to get them out. They are broke off flush with the boss' so I would have to use an easy out, but I don't see having enough room to use a drill . I'm going to take an actual picture tomorrow . Thanks BMX
Strokermjcomanche Posted October 10, 2015 Author Posted October 10, 2015 It happens pretty often. I jumped a XJ once and broke the bosses off the block. There is a motor mount vendor that has a plate that pulls in a few more mounting points. Once I remember who it was I'll link it. I think it's m.o.r.e , but the bosses aren't broke just the bolts are . I thought that is what the purpose of those were . Thanks Shelbyluvv
HOrnbrod Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 Yeah, even with a right angle drill there's not enough room to drill on the drivers side to drill and use easy out if they are broken off flush. The good is that the bosses are intact, the bad is that you can't get access to get the bolt remains out of the bosses. Bummer.
mikekaz1 Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 I know in 95/96 this was an issue as the factory used too long of bolts and they bottomed out in the block before they torqued down. My 95 snapped all the passenger sides off coming down the highway. Broke the exhaust and blew the fan through the radiator. Epic fail to say the least
Strokermjcomanche Posted October 10, 2015 Author Posted October 10, 2015 I know in 95/96 this was an issue as the factory used too long of bolts and they bottomed out in the block before they torqued down. My 95 snapped all the passenger sides off coming down the highway. Broke the exhaust and blew the fan through the radiator. Epic fail to say the least I wish the bolts broke on the passenger side ( or never at all ) . Good to hear it's happened before though , thanks .
Eagle Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 If the aftermarket mounting plate won't work, you're probably going to have to either pull the engine, or at least put an engine hoist on it and lift it up enough to make space for a drill. Sears has sets of left-hand twist drill bits that are good for removing broken bolt shanks.
Strokermjcomanche Posted October 11, 2015 Author Posted October 11, 2015 If the aftermarket mounting plate won't work, you're probably going to have to either pull the engine, or at least put an engine hoist on it and lift it up enough to make space for a drill. Sears has sets of left-hand twist drill bits that are good for removing broken bolt shanks. Yep, it looks like the only two options I have right now . I had the engine lift supporting the drivers side of the engine and removed the motor mount and there is no room for a drill , maybe a small angle drill but I haven't found one small enough yet . The mount that Shelbyluvv mentioned may contact the bosses , but if they do I may just cut them off for the new mount to clear . I don't have time this late in the season to be pulling the motor and hopefully plan on replacing it with another rust free xj in the near future . Thanks Eagle
Strokermjcomanche Posted October 11, 2015 Author Posted October 11, 2015 Yeah, even with a right angle drill there's not enough room to drill on the drivers side to drill and use easy out if they are broken off flush. The good is that the bosses are intact, the bad is that you can't get access to get the bolt remains out of the bosses. Bummer. I guess it wouldn't hurt to cut them to fit the M.O.R.E mount right ?Very Few options right now .
mnkyboy Posted October 11, 2015 Posted October 11, 2015 I've had good luck with cutting a line into the broken bolts with a cut off wheel and removing them with a flat head screw driver.
HOrnbrod Posted October 11, 2015 Posted October 11, 2015 http://browndogindustries.com/S2572LHX-Cherokee-Comanche-I6-Engine-Super-Bracket-Header-Left.aspx
mikekaz1 Posted October 11, 2015 Posted October 11, 2015 I know in 95/96 this was an issue as the factory used too long of bolts and they bottomed out in the block before they torqued down. My 95 snapped all the passenger sides off coming down the highway. Broke the exhaust and blew the fan through the radiator. Epic fail to say the leastI wish the bolts broke on the passenger side ( or never at all ) . Good to hear it's happened before though , thanks . Yep. Not alone! We used a reverse drill bit
Strokermjcomanche Posted October 11, 2015 Author Posted October 11, 2015 http://browndogindustries.com/S2572LHX-Cherokee-Comanche-I6-Engine-Super-Bracket-Header-Left.aspx Ordered ^^ thanks Don .
HOrnbrod Posted October 11, 2015 Posted October 11, 2015 Kind of expensive, but at least you don't have to pull the engine.
Strokermjcomanche Posted October 11, 2015 Author Posted October 11, 2015 Kind of expensive, but at least you don't have to pull the engine. Yeah , I'm up against the weather right now .
shelbyluvv Posted October 11, 2015 Posted October 11, 2015 That was the one. Thanks Don. I hope it works out for you Adam.
Strokermjcomanche Posted October 11, 2015 Author Posted October 11, 2015 That was the one. Thanks Don. I hope it works out for you Adam. Thanks Bo and everyone else for all the responses/ help .
Minuit Posted October 11, 2015 Posted October 11, 2015 WOW didn't expect that kind of price. Guess they have you by the nuts if you've got bolts broken off in your engine though.
Akula69 Posted October 12, 2015 Posted October 12, 2015 Adam - I suggest that a .40 cal wire bore brush will clean out the other boss holes in the block (or you can run a tap in them). Either way, it'll make the bolts go in easier!
Strokermjcomanche Posted October 12, 2015 Author Posted October 12, 2015 Adam - I suggest that a .40 cal wire bore brush will clean out the other boss holes in the block (or you can run a tap in them). Either way, it'll make the bolts go in easier! Will do , thanks Akula
Strokermjcomanche Posted October 21, 2015 Author Posted October 21, 2015 Well it's finally on . This is a quality product and would recommend this to anyone with the same problem . Brown dog included everything to do the job except for the tap for the knock sensor hole , which is understandable . Once I get the hole tapped I will put the bolt provided in the knock sensor hole . Here it is installed
Steve Gregory Posted October 21, 2015 Posted October 21, 2015 I sheared all of my passenger side bolts driving to work one day. Used a punch and a hammer to get them out.
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