Jackrabbit41 Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 i got my pats vehicle. I got a ax15. I'm taking that out today. I'm going to put all new seals in it and clean it up and then I'm going to swap it in. I need to know all the stuff thats needed for this swap. I got the cross member, shifter, case, and linkage. I have no idea what needs to be changed or bought for this. Thanks all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 Get the front driveshaft, all the brackets for the shift linkage, perhaps the console (not sure what's in your MJ now), slip yoke from the rear d/s, external master/slave with hydraulic line (remove as one piece), & wiring for the backup lights in case you have to splice it in. If the front axle is good you might want to swap it for your CAD axle. Don't forget the input shaft diameter change and it's effect on the pilot bearing. How far away is the parts vehicle from where you'll be doing the swap? You may have to run back & forth to grab a few odds & ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 Get the front driveshaft, all the brackets for the shift linkage, perhaps the console (not sure what's in your MJ now), slip yoke from the rear d/s, external master/slave with hydraulic line (remove as one piece), & wiring for the backup lights in case you have to splice it in. If the front axle is good you might want to swap it for your CAD axle. Don't forget the input shaft diameter change and it's effect on the pilot bearing. How far away is the parts vehicle from where you'll be doing the swap? You may have to run back & forth to grab a few odds & ends. 10 feet lol. It's in my garage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 Really, sounds like you pretty much got it covered. IMHO, I'd put new MOPAR slave and master, new TOB if external slave, new synthetic 30wt, front and rear seals, pilot bearing. You got the "guide" for what needs to be done sitting in your garage (donor XJ). Good luck, take your time, after your third tranny and second engine this MJ stuff gets pretty easy...lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 Really, sounds like you pretty much got it covered. IMHO, I'd put new MOPAR slave and master, new TOB if external slave, new synthetic 30wt, front and rear seals, pilot bearing. You got the "guide" for what needs to be done sitting in your garage (donor XJ). Good luck, take your time, after your third tranny and second engine this MJ stuff gets pretty easy...lol What does IMHO mean and TOB? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 IMHO - In my humble opinion TOB - Throw out bearing :waving: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 IMHO: I always took to mean - In My Honest Opinion. My context anyways. And the best of all: JEEP Just Empty Every Pocket $$$$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bee110 Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 made sure you used the old flywheel and the same crank sensor for you harness and the new ax15 transmission . so if you don't it will crank but will not start. I just finish doing one hope its a help gook luck!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 Get the front driveshaft, all the brackets for the shift linkage, perhaps the console (not sure what's in your MJ now), slip yoke from the rear d/s, external master/slave with hydraulic line (remove as one piece), & wiring for the backup lights in case you have to splice it in. If the front axle is good you might want to swap it for your CAD axle. Don't forget the input shaft diameter change and it's effect on the pilot bearing. How far away is the parts vehicle from where you'll be doing the swap? You may have to run back & forth to grab a few odds & ends. do i need to use the master out of the cherokee? i just put in a new one on my comanche, will the external slave fit up to that? i don't even know how it all goes together, ill have to look also i got a pilot bearing for the ax15, can i just swap that into the comanche and it'll fit right up? i know the size changed after 91 or something like that. I'm just not 100% sure what that means for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 Yes, take the master, slave, and plastic hydraulic line out as a unit and transfer them to your MJ. If I remember correctly the master won't fit on your existing clutch pedal unless you open up the hole at the end of the pushrod just a bit. You can either do that or swap the clutch pedal from the parts truck. The input shaft diameter changed in '91. Not sure if the Renix vs HO pilot bearing hole dia in the crank changed though. Pull your existing pilot bearing and compare OD to the one in the clutch kit. I think (but don't know firsthand) that some have used a pilot bearing from an AMC 304 V8 with manual trans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 Get the front driveshaft, all the brackets for the shift linkage, perhaps the console (not sure what's in your MJ now), slip yoke from the rear d/s, external master/slave with hydraulic line (remove as one piece), & wiring for the backup lights in case you have to splice it in. If the front axle is good you might want to swap it for your CAD axle. Don't forget the input shaft diameter change and it's effect on the pilot bearing. How far away is the parts vehicle from where you'll be doing the swap? You may have to run back & forth to grab a few odds & ends. Will the comanche bread driveshaft not bolt up to the t case without the cherokee slip yoke? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 Get the front driveshaft, all the brackets for the shift linkage, perhaps the console (not sure what's in your MJ now), slip yoke from the rear d/s, external master/slave with hydraulic line (remove as one piece), & wiring for the backup lights in case you have to splice it in. If the front axle is good you might want to swap it for your CAD axle. Don't forget the input shaft diameter change and it's effect on the pilot bearing. How far away is the parts vehicle from where you'll be doing the swap? You may have to run back & forth to grab a few odds & ends. Will the comanche rear driveshaft not bolt up to the t case without the cherokee slip yoke? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 It depends on the spline count.... best to try it out.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chopper35nj Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 I have been considering a similar swap for mine as well but was more concerned with drive shaft length. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 Really, sounds like you pretty much got it covered. IMHO, I'd put new MOPAR slave and master, new TOB if external slave, new synthetic 30wt, front and rear seals, pilot bearing. You got the "guide" for what needs to be done sitting in your garage (donor XJ). Good luck, take your time, after your third tranny and second engine this MJ stuff gets pretty easy...lol So I'm in the middle of the swap right now and have two problems. First one is the electrical connections on the AX 15 look a lot different than the ones on my Comanche. Do I need to wire new plugs? Also I got a new slave cylinder and master but I could not get the new hydraulic lines is it OK to use the old ones? I'll swap it out once napa gets it but they don't have any in stock for a while Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 I cut the ends off the harnesses that plug into the trans and swap them. Soldier the BA10 end to the AX15 harness. Then Plug-N-Play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 I cut the ends off the harnesses that plug into the trans and swap them. Soldier the BA10 end to the AX15 harness. Then Plug-N-Play. So i cut off all the plugs on the cherokee and am going to wire them back in but i am confused on some things. like the breather hoses, there is only 1 on the new t case. should i just ditch the others from the comanche? maybe theres more but i couldn't find any more. and then theres this 3 wire plug. on the comanche it was 4 wires. what wire do i leave out? and what are the plugs on the t case for? this is the old t case from the comanche where the plug goes into [/url]">http:// here is the old plug with the 4 wires, while the new one has only 3 [/url]">http:// here's a pic of both the plugs that Id like to know what they do. the closet one is the plug that i was talking about above. this is the cherokees t case. [/url]">http:// below is a pic of an after market 4x4 shifter. The PO put it in, IDK why. to engage 4wd i had to pull the normal lever and then pull out this button thing [/url]">http:// is this thing part of that shifter? on the old t case, there was a port where it screwed into. [/url]">http:// thanks all! hopefully ill have it in tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Ok. Those are transfer case items. I thought you were asking about the reverse light switch on the trans. The rainbow connectors are the vacuum lines for the front axle CAD (Central Axle Disconnect) that your 87 has. The new tcase may not have the connection for the vac lines. I don't have the answer for that. Sorry. (Be sure to cap off the vac lines since you don't need them anymore.) See CAD elimination. The two wire connection on the new (?) tcase is probably for the 4wd light on your dash. (On the older tcase, that is controlled by the vac switch) The three wire is for the electronic speedo in the later XJ/MJ. The large cable is the older speedo in the Renix XJ/MJ. You will need to unscrew the connections on the tcase and swap them over. I believe (?) they will just swap over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 Ok. Those are transfer case items. I thought you were asking about the reverse light switch on the trans. The rainbow connectors are the vacuum lines for the front axle CAD (Central Axle Disconnect) that your 87 has. The new tcase may not have the connection for the vac lines. I don't have the answer for that. Sorry. (Be sure to cap off the vac lines since you don't need them anymore.) See CAD elimination. The two wire connection on the new (?) tcase is probably for the 4wd light on your dash. (On the older tcase, that is controlled by the vac switch) The three wire is for the electronic speedo in the later XJ/MJ. The large cable is the older speedo in the Renix XJ/MJ. You will need to unscrew the connections on the tcase and swap them over. I believe (?) they will just swap over. the rainbow colored lines look like electrical linesand nothing like vacuum but I'm not sure. And do I need to that elimination thing? What if I left it? And when you talked about that cable thing, that has nothing to do with that aftermarket 4wd shifter thing? I'm still confused on some stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 the colored line are vacuum lines. Look at your rt front axle for the CAD. You will see the other end of some of those lines. You will need to do the CAD elimination since you will not have the vac lines to control it. Without doing this, you will not have 4wd. The last picture above, the large nut with a cable coming out the end, is your speedo cable for your 87. The later XJ/MJ (91+) use electronic speedos. Those are the three wires coming out of the tail of the tcase. The pieces that are in the same location on the tcase (where the cable plugged into and the three wire plug) can be swapped. Then the cable will connect to the new tcase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 the colored line are vacuum lines. Look at your rt front axle for the CAD. You will see the other end of some of those lines. You will need to do the CAD elimination since you will not have the vac lines to control it. Without doing this, you will not have 4wd. The last picture above, the large nut with a cable coming out the end, is your speedo cable for your 87. The later XJ/MJ (91+) use electronic speedos. Those are the three wires coming out of the tail of the tcase. The pieces that are in the same location on the tcase (where the cable plugged into and the three wire plug) can be swapped. Then the cable will connect to the new tcase. Ok thanks. I'm probably going to wait to do the elimination because I need my truck running by tomorrow. Also, if I do that elimination will that leave me in 4wd? How does it shift into 4wd anymore? Does it hair use the linkage? And should I pull out that aftermarket 4wd shifter that is pictured earlier? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 If you're pressed for time transfer the master/slave/line as a unit and replace individual components later on. Bleeding that thing is a real PITA. On the Vacuum harness setup, pulling the lever shifts the T-case into 4WD which, in turn, directs vacuum to the CAD actuator in the front axle. Pinning the shift fork to the locked position will make the front axle operate like the later front axles. If you do nothing other than cap the vacuum lines (again if pressed for time) you can drive the truck as is in 2WD but 4WD won't function properly. The t-case will engage but the front axle won't pull. I'd pull the aftermarket linkage and put in the setup from the donor. You can install the linkage later on and manually shift the T-case into 2WD from underneath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Ok thanks. I'm probably going to wait to do the elimination because I need my truck running by tomorrow. Also, if I do that elimination will that leave me in 4wd? How does it shift into 4wd anymore? Does it hair use the linkage? And should I pull out that aftermarket 4wd shifter that is pictured earlier? If you do the elimination, you will not be locked on 4wd. You will only be in 4wd when you engage the tcase. The elimination just locks the two piece axle together. Read through the prior link. There is a lot info about how it is "supposed to work" and what the elimination accomplishes. You should use the 4wd shifter and linkage from the donor. There is a diff in the profiles for the BA10 and AX15 that the linkage adjusts for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted August 26, 2015 Author Share Posted August 26, 2015 Thanks guys got it all figured out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee21490 Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Btw jack, The guy on C'list i picked up my non disco d30 from, Had an entire box truck full of ax15's lol That guy had like 10 parted out XJ's in his front yard, And even a decent looking MJ. It was absolutely insane the amount of parts he had stacked on shelves. Told him about the site & how people are always looking for parts. Think he wanted $400 for the internal ax15, And $500 for the external. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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