Jeepman Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 Thought I threw a Rod and Figured perfect timing to install my 4.7L Stroker Engine I have been building for a while now but just wasn't in a Hurry to finish... Took the Engine out to see how bad the Rod was and low and Behold it was not the Rod... So Its Time for this to go in... The Engine has been installed into my truck for maybe 5 years now and ran beautifully with no hiccups except I was always loosing coolant and could not find where it was going so my guess is someone before me must have cooked it a few times and somehow damaged the cylinder wall and most likely cracked the wall which is where my coolant was going all this time... Changed my oil and not even a week later I fire her up and a rat tat tat tat she a went... So time for some more upgrades to the Old MJ... Will try to take assembly pics but I am sure you have all seen the inside of an engine or two... Just waiting on some 505 performance parts and some Hesco parts to arrive but then I will be down south in Arizona/California and Nevada from the 10-the 24th good thing I am flying or my vacation would be in trouble... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8valvehero Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 Holy smithereenes, Batman! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 Well... there's your problem. :smart: I'd love to see your face once you get that stroker up and running... Gonna be a huge difference when you butt-dyno it haha. :wavey: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeepman Posted August 2, 2014 Author Share Posted August 2, 2014 Yes it will be a good jump in power. My current 4.0L with bolt ons was very powerful as it was with bolt on upgrades but the stroker is going to be at least 100HP over stock. I plan on Supercharging it as well but not till later on as I was planning on fabricating the stroker while the engine was in the build stage so I will have to find another down the road to use as the donor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 What bolt-ons did you have, if you don't mind me asking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeepman Posted August 2, 2014 Author Share Posted August 2, 2014 OBDII upgrade with upgraded exhaust front to back 2.5" with high flow cat, Rugged Ridge Header, 99+ intake manifold, 62MM Throttle Body, dual 10" electric fans, Ford Mustang 24lbs injectors. There maybe a thing or two i am forgetting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeepman Posted December 16, 2014 Author Share Posted December 16, 2014 Empty Post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeepman Posted December 16, 2014 Author Share Posted December 16, 2014 Next a Proper Electric fan bracket Image Not Found Then on to my Exhaust... Magnaflow Hot Rod Kit... Magnaflow XL Muffler and High Flow Cat Collector Tailpipe Time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Pioneer Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 That looks like a lot of work. I like how the exhaust exits on an angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeepman Posted December 16, 2014 Author Share Posted December 16, 2014 Thanks and yes it was... Cutting and piecing the Mandrel bent Hot rod kit took about 2 days of fiddling with which includes the welding and grinding but since you can not just go out and buy a full mandrel bent kit to bolt on I had to make it... I debated on OE 90 out the side or the 45 and I have since installed a Nice Polished SS truck tip... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Any problems with the install and clearance of the roller rockers? Was there and special machine work needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeepman Posted December 16, 2014 Author Share Posted December 16, 2014 No problems with the install and no machine work either, just had to remove the baffle in the Cover... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 No problems with the install and no machine work either, just had to remove the baffle in the Cover... Was curious because I read this on their web site: " Must machine head .400 for guide plates and drill & tap for a 3/8 X 3/8 rocker stud.." So I guess you used the stock 5/16" studs with the stock springs, lifters, and push rods? And lastly, which head are you using? I thinking I'll be installing the Harland Sharp rockers very soon. BTW your engine looks great. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeepman Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 Interesting as I never read anything like that but I just bolted them in place but due to my stroker and no I am running a Comp Cam and lifters and custom 505 pushrods... The head I am using is the 0630... I just copied this from their site... Special Notes: * Harland Sharp original series, pedestal mount, Jeep 4.0L Inline 6, roller rockers are designed to be a replacement for the factory rocker that fits under the stock valve cover. Simply remove the factory rockers and rocker stands and replace with your new Harland Sharp roller rockers. * These non-adjustable rockers are designed to the factory specs. If you change camshafts or machine the heads, you will have to correct your pushrod length. Always check before installing. * We recommend always checking for head and valve cover clearance and proper lifter preload. As said earlier I only had to remove the baffle which was in the Instructions to do.. Thanks Its been a long stroker build and now that is in my Trans is Crapped out on me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 ^^ Thanks for that, must have missed it on their site. I have the Hesco RVOB cam with the proper push rods. So since the Harland Sharp roller rockers simply replace the original stamped steel rockers and do not change the existing lifter preload, looks like I'll be good to go. But I'll chack with Hesco to be sure. I'm curious as to how the CCV system will operate with the valve cover vent towers removed. Maybe they can be shortened just enough as in one of Cruiser's tips to provide just enough clearance for the new rockers. :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buxmj Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 I want that. Someday stroker please!!!!!!!!! Great work. Buck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Same rockers on my 2.5 and the baffles remain. How about a pic of the inside of the VC? and show why there is a clearance problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeepman Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 Same rockers on my 2.5 and the baffles remain. How about a pic of the inside of the VC? and show why there is a clearance problem? Well I never test fitted it before I removed the baffles as the Instruction's http://www.harlandsharp.com/instructions/jeep%20ins.pdf state early on that they MUST be removed ... Sorry No pics available as the engine is all together and running... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Please visit my page and tell me if your baffles are the same or different, bottom of page, last three pics- http://comancheclub.com/topic/44902-po-boys-88/?p=462969 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Your 2.5 baffle towers look exactly the same as the 4.0, but the spacing of the 4.0 rocker studs might be different - don't remember. Thanks for the pics - will have to look into this. Just because the instructions say the towers must be removed doesn't mean they MUST. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjim Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Nice job on the exhaust! Those flat 4 bolt cat flanges like the original had aren't too difficult to fabricate with a piece of steel plate, a gasket, and a hole saw. Your system came out so nice, I wouldn't take it apart to add it now, but to anyone copying your idea of using the weld up kit like this, it really helps to have a flange like the factory set up if it needs to come apart later. BTW, the engine looks as great as the exhaust, nice job! edit; you would probably never need it, but the other benefit of having the flange is if you needed to replace that head pipe quickly (like in the middle of a 4wd trip somewhere), an off the shelf pipe would still work till you got home.... sorry for the side track :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeepman Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Please visit my page and tell me if your baffles are the same or different, bottom of page, last three pics- http://comancheclub.com/topic/44902-po-boys-88/?p=462969 Nice Build by the way... And No mine is totally different I just took these of my spare Valve cover.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeepman Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Nice job on the exhaust! Those flat 4 bolt cat flanges like the original had aren't too difficult to fabricate with a piece of steel plate, a gasket, and a hole saw. Your system came out so nice, I wouldn't take it apart to add it now, but to anyone copying your idea of using the weld up kit like this, it really helps to have a flange like the factory set up if it needs to come apart later. BTW, the engine looks as great as the exhaust, nice job! edit; you would probably never need it, but the other benefit of having the flange is if you needed to replace that head pipe quickly (like in the middle of a 4wd trip somewhere), an off the shelf pipe would still work till you got home.... sorry for the side track :) Thanks it took a long time to mess around with to get as I wanted it, if you keep looking down the page I originally used Square flanges on my old exhaust which are cheap and easy to get at any auto parts store but with the Hot Rod kit it comes with ball flanges which is what I used as the first semi completed pic was a test fit... ON stock exhaust I always cut and weld in a square flange to be serviceable as it should have been that way from the factory... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Nice Build by the way... And No mine is totally different I just took these of my spare Valve cover.. Yes, you are using the later model 4.0 steel cover. The earlier cast aluminum covers (96 and below IIRC) have the vent towers inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeepman Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Yes as I am running everything 97+ Sorry I thought that was clear in the pics where you see my Valve cover... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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