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Pronounced Shake At 60+Mph: Tires?


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Those of you who keep up with my build know I put new tires on the MJ last week. The tires have about 140 miles on them. They're Cooper Discoverers in 235/75 and I like them, but the shop that put them on is a different story. They broke two of my hubcaps, but that's not the problem I want to address.

 

At 60 MPH and above, the truck shakes pretty badly. It seems to me like the tires are pretty severely out of balance. I do need an alignment, but all front suspension components seem tight from a quick check. The driveshaft u-joints seem to be tight, eliminating my other guess. I'm planning on going to have the shop check the tire balance, but I wanted to make sure I eliminated every other option before. I really, really don't like working with shops.

 

Thanks for any and all answers! . :MJ 1: .

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Ditch that shop if they don't use a Hunter Road Force balancer and find one that does. 

 

Very strongly considering it. This has been my first interaction with this particular shop and I'm very disappointed.

 

How is your steering stabilizer ? That can make it seem like the tires are out of balance . What tire size did you have before?

 

No clue what shape it's in but it looks like it's original to the truck. The previous size was 215/75/15.

 

Also: Tire pressure is 32 PSI all around.

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Seems pretty simple to me. Did it shake at 60 MPH with the old tires? No?

 

Shakes at 60 MPH with the new tires? Yes?

 

That's what we call a "clue." FWIW, tire balance problems (as opposed to true death wobble) seem to almost always start to kick in somewhere between 55 MPH and 60 MPH, and then disappear above 65 MPH. If your shake is in the range, IMHO there's about a 99.87 percent probability that the issue is tire balance.

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The problem could have occured due to you changing to a bigger size tire . The stabilizer could have been strong enough the accommodate the 215s but not the 235s . Do you see any signs of it leaking? And if you have steel rims jack the truck up and spin the tires to make sure the shop didn't bend a rim .

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Seems pretty simple to me. Did it shake at 60 MPH with the old tires? No?

 

Shakes at 60 MPH with the new tires? Yes?

 

That's what we call a "clue." FWIW, tire balance problems (as opposed to true death wobble) seem to almost always start to kick in somewhere between 55 MPH and 60 MPH, and then disappear above 65 MPH. If your shake is in the range, IMHO there's about a 99.87 percent probability that the issue is tire balance.

 

It starts shaking at an indicated 60mph (~62.5 actually) and starts getting a bit better after indicated 70 (~73).

 

The problem could have occured due to you changing to a bigger size tire . The stabilizer could have been strong enough the accommodate the 215s but not the 235s . Do you see any signs of it leaking? And if you have steel rims jack the truck up and spin the tires to make sure the shop didn't bend a rim .

 

Good thought. I didn't look at it in detail (but I will tomorrow) but it looked like it could have been leaking. They aren't too expensive so I may order one later on.

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I do run a OME stabilizer, but if the tires are properly balanced ( and the rest of the front end is squared away) a stabilizer does very little. While waiting for the OME stabilizer to arrive, I removed the original, and ran my truck a couple of weeks, including plenty of freeway driving w/o one. All was well, no shaking or vibrations. I think a stabilizer is kind of a band aid mainly to mask other steering/suspension system problems. I do consider it a necessary band aid to have installed however to cover imperfections that come along as the tires wear.

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No mud INSIDE the lip of your wheels? I used to have those same wheels on my ZJ a long time ago and they had a tendency to collect crud in the inner lip where the rim meets the face. It would shake pretty horribly until I would wash em out.

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No mud INSIDE the lip of your wheels? I used to have those same wheels on my ZJ a long time ago and they had a tendency to collect crud in the inner lip where the rim meets the face. It would shake pretty horribly until I would wash em out.

 

My stock "Turbine" Rims collect dirt like its gold.

 

had to use a pressure washer to remove it all..

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I would recommend getting a different shop to check the balance of the tires and also perform an alignment. When they do an alignment they will tell you if any steering parts are worn and need replacing. Recently had my 97 with death wobble rotated and balanced and when doing alignment they said the tre's and ball joints were worn. They showed me the play in the ball joints and it was pretty bad, replaced all ball joints and all front steering and ditched the steering stabilizer. Had them do an alignment after and all death wobble is gone and drives smoothly without the stabilizer now, and theres plenty of potholes around that would introduce death wobble if it was there.

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I do run a OME stabilizer, but if the tires are properly balanced ( and the rest of the front end is squared away) a stabilizer does very little. While waiting for the OME stabilizer to arrive, I removed the original, and ran my truck a couple of weeks, including plenty of freeway driving w/o one. All was well, no shaking or vibrations. I think a stabilizer is kind of a band aid mainly to mask other steering/suspension system problems. I do consider it a necessary band aid to have installed however to cover imperfections that come along as the tires wear.

I agree with this. A stabilizer is there to mask any little issue. I have not ran a stabilizer for the last 8 years and I do not have any wobble or vibration from the front end. If something is worn, you'll get a wobble, but the stabilizer might mask it.

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Pretty sure that when the OP had his new tires mounted and balanced, any substantial mud debris was removed. Unless the shop was really bad.........

I have seen shops that ARE that bad. Besides, he might have hit a few puddles in the past 140 miles.

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I've been using airsoft bb's to balance my tires for about 10 years now. You need to figure out how much weight is needed to balance the tire, then throw in some extra bb's. Ive used them on 30's, 32's, and 35's with no issues on any of them.

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LTBs are bias ply. They flat spot when they sit more than 4 hours. You have to drive on them for about 45 minutes to warm them back up and take the shake out of them. I ran them for about 3 weeks on my old truck. They are a horrible tire.

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  • 3 months later...

Time for a little update. This morning, I took the MJ to a different, much better shop (that does have the aforementioned Hunter wheel balancer) for an alignment (which it needed badly) and tire balancing. The alignment is great now and the steering feels much better, but the shaking at speed continues. This leads me to believe it's a driveshaft/U-joint issue. Any suggestions?

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When I find out a tire dude mounts my wheels with an air gun, they never see me again.

I've never seen a tire shop that didn't use burp guns, for removing and installing tires. Which is why I never take my car to a shop for tires. I take the wheels (with old tires, if applicable) to the shop in the back of another vehicle and have the shop mount the tires and balance them. Then **I** put them back on the vehicle, by hand. With a torque wrench.

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