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Wj Knuckles?


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Just got a set of new take off JK wheels and tires for $200, and I'm looking at wheel adapters as I mentioned in another thread. Now I'm wondering about WJ knuckles for the front and instead of adapting it to 5x4.5, just leaving it original. Does anyone know if the XJ dana 30 axles will fit the the WJ unit bearing hubs? I'm thinking that the hole in the hub is going to be too big. I don't think the spacer adapter is needed in this situation as I wouldnt be changing bearings and the turing point for the axle would stay the same in relation to the ball joints. I know different ball joints are needed to make this work, but if the hub hole is too big, is there a way to adapt this? Am I remembering correctly that there were a few WJ's with regualr U-joint front axles? I'm a Jeep dealer tech and Ive never seen any. Would one of these be needed with an adapter U-joint to the XJ axle in order for this to work?

 

I know this is a lot of questions, but throwing a brake upgrade in there with the new wheels would be another bonus. I have a set of WJ knucles already, without calipers, just sitting in storage. It will be cheaper to just buy some adapters I know, but it has my wheels spinning.

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I've got WJ knuckles and brakes and 5x4.5" hubs on my front D44, but it has D30 inner Cs :( .

 

Here's what I know, someone feel free to add or correct any info if I'm incorrect.

 

The WJ knuckles, brakes and hubs will fit fine on an XJ/MJ high pinion D30.  The WJ caliper is dual piston, bigger and and better than the single piston XJ/MJ set up.  Get the second Gen Akebeno calipers, WJs had an issue from the factory with rotor warpage and they switched from Teeves to Akebenos some time around 02'-04' IIRC..

 

If you've already got the wheels, then I'd say run the WJ unit bearings, they're a little beefier.  (but then you'll have to run adapters on the rear axle).  But if you're going to run a 5x4.5" unit bearing, then you will need a .25" spacer in between the knuckle and the unit bearing and you must run 2000 and up TJ bearings or the caliper to rotor spacing won't match up.   This is due to a change in the rotor thickness/offset.   See the difference in the offset in the second pic below...its page 9 on my build page and there's a few other links from other sites where guys have done the swap.  http://comancheclub.com/topic/22479-deep-in-the-heart-of-comanche-county/page-9

 

You can fab a spacer or get it here: http://jksmfg.com/i-9052782-fab-steering-knuckle-flange-spacer.html

M62507291.jpg

 

The 2000 and up TJ bearing is on the right, its got longer studs and you can see how the WMS is shorter.

8139376299_abe656cd90_z.jpg

 

Important! ---- The WJ D30 has a different tapered lower ball joint, use an XJ/MJ upper and a WJ lower ball joint.  That's what I'm running.  If you use a XJ/MJ lower, it will fit, but it will give you a little camber like those Japanese street donks, and you'll wear the unit bearings faster.

 

WJ brakes are a really easy upgrade.  I'd just go to the JY and find a wrecked WJ that has a decent set of brakes and take everything, buy a new WJ lower ball joint and slap it on.

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I forget all the technical minutia but what I can tell you is that the WJ brakes and proper cross-over steering are a worth while upgrade. It steers and brakes like a real vehicle instead of something from the 1970s.

 

I have WJ brakes, cross over with tie-rod flip and converted to 5 on 5.5" pattern. Works well. I also have WARN lock out hubs but I wouldn't do that again given how much it costs now. When I did it the cost was ~$750. Nowadays I think it is closer to $1500.

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All the technical details have already been covered above, so just my opinion on what I would do if I were in your shoes:

 

Use the stock Dana 30 with the WJ knuckles. The JK wheels will just bolt on for the front then.

 

For the rear get some 5 on 4.5 to 5 on 5 adapters from Spidertrax. This will allow the JK wheels to fit in the back and at the same time fix the problem with the rear wheels sitting too far back in the wheel wells like the stock setup does.

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  • 1 year later...

So it almost looks like if one uses renix unit bearings you would not need to use TJ bearings or the JKS spacer and just run renix unit bearings? I have WJ knuckles and renix unit bearings and am thinking about trying it out. 

 

I might take a spare renix unit bearing over to napa or auto zone and some digital calipers and compare to a 2001 unit bearing to see if its about 1/4" off. 

 

the last time i did a WJ swap I ran JKS spacers and 2001 wrangler unit bearings, it would be great to save all of that money if I can run the renix unit bearings. 

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  • 1 month later...

What's the word on this?

So it almost looks like if one uses renix unit bearings you would not need to use TJ bearings or the JKS spacer and just run renix unit bearings? I have WJ knuckles and renix unit bearings and am thinking about trying it out. 

 

I might take a spare renix unit bearing over to napa or auto zone and some digital calipers and compare to a 2001 unit bearing to see if its about 1/4" off. 

 

the last time i did a WJ swap I ran JKS spacers and 2001 wrangler unit bearings, it would be great to save all of that money if I can run the renix unit bearings. 

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Not going to work, the 1/4" spacer is required to space the hub unit correctly for ujoint/balljoint alignment.

 

The use of the 2000+ TJ/XJ unit bearing is for use with spacing the rotor correctly. The earlier hubs can be used with Sport Trac rotors to avoid using caliper bracket spacers with 2000 TJ/XJ hubs and Sport Trac rotors - to avoid having to redrill WJ rotors.

But the hub spacers are still needed.

 

The WJ ujoint shaft were a European option.

 

Teeves calipers work just fine, and are a better choice if staying on 15" wheels. Have yet to warp a rotor in 2yrs.

 

Only the lower ball joints differ on a WJ, the uppers are the same as those used on the MJ/TJ/XJ/YJ/ZJ D30's. The lowers however have a different taper to the pivot pin.

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