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Towing With My Mj


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I think center of gravity has a lot to do with how the MJ will handle trailers. I rented a rock saw once, the kind you ride on, with a 6' diameter saw. Don't have a clue what that sucker weighed, but I made the mistake of letting my speed get up over 45 MPH, and the rented trailer that I was hauling it on started swaying so bad that it took all four lanes (two of which were opposite direction) to get it back under control. I was just lucky not to have any other vehicles around at the time.

 

For the last 5 years or so, I've been pulling a 4000 lb load, boat and trailer, on 500 miles of interstate at 60-65 MPH 7-8 times a year. The boat trailer is very stable, and the MJ pulls it very well, so brakes become the biggest concern. I've added disc brakes to the second axle on the trailer (surge brakes), and that has helped a lot. It was originally equipped with disc brakes on just one axle. Now I plan to get some Power Stop Z36 discs up front of the truck, and do the booster upgrade. Meanwhile I use the lessons learned while driving big rigs....I leave plenty of room in front of me.

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I think center of gravity has a lot to do with how the MJ will handle trailers. I rented a rock saw once, the kind you ride on, with a 6' diameter saw. Don't have a clue what that sucker weighed, but I made the mistake of letting my speed get up over 45 MPH, and the rented trailer that I was hauling it on started swaying so bad that it took all four lanes (two of which were opposite direction) to get it back under control. I was just lucky not to have any other vehicles around at the time.

 

For the last 5 years or so, I've been pulling a 4000 lb load, boat and trailer, on 500 miles of interstate at 60-65 MPH 7-8 times a year. The boat trailer is very stable, and the MJ pulls it very well, so brakes become the biggest concern. I've added disc brakes to the second axle on the trailer (surge brakes), and that has helped a lot. It was originally equipped with disc brakes on just one axle. Now I plan to get some Power Stop Z36 discs up front of the truck, and do the booster upgrade. Meanwhile I use the lessons learned while driving big rigs....I leave plenty of room in front of me.

 

Your trailer started swaying because you did not have the trailer loaded properly.  You had too much weight on the tail of your trailer and were light on the nose of the trailer.  That is why it started swaying.  And you did DAMN good to get it back under control!

 

You need to have about 10% of the total trailer weight on the tongue as tongue weight.  So if you are towing 4000 lbs, you need a tongue weight of about 400 or 500 lbs. Your boat trailer tows straight it is properly loaded.

 

"I leave plenty of room in front of me."   VERY Best advice when towing anything!!

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Inadequate tongue weight is often the cause of trailer sway, as you point out. I think in this case, the rental company loaded the tractor (that's what this rock saw was) on an inadequate trailer. The whole rig stood about 8' tall, and the tractor was all the way up against the front rail. The trailer had some pretty weak springs, and the tractor probably outweighed my MJ by a good amount. Add that to the fact that I should have put more air in my rear tires.

 

Actually 7-10% of total weight is what is called for on the tongue. I have 295 pound tongue weight on my 4000 lb boat trailer load. When I first bought it, there was over 700 lbs on the tongue. I had to move the axles forward about 8 inches to correct it.

 

My MJ is a '90 4x4 heavy ton, with the auto and an aux xmsn cooler and temp gauge, and of course a hitch receiver.

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  • 1 month later...

i towed my comanche home on a flatbed trailer with an 88 xj 4,0 aw4 on 35s with 456 gears fully locked drove 65mph about 90%of the time and could stop like no tomorrow. no trailer brakes eather. but had bb upgrade and 8.8 used ebc yellow stop on rear and their quick stops on the front. i could lock them up. but I'm in florida its kinda flat here so easier to tow.

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Just because you can do it does not mean you should. You got lucky that you did not have to stop in a hurry. That trailer would have pushed the XJ right through whatever you were trying to avoid.

 

I was towing a Mustang on a car trailer behind my WJ. The WJ had a V8, 4X4, discs on all four corners and a brake controller for the trailer. The trailer had brakes but I did not know they didn't work. I was cruising along with the Mustang in tow and all of a sudden a light changed from green to red. I hit the brakes to slow down and there was very little stopping going on. Getting closer to the intersection I really stood on the brakes. The ABS went retarded and the trailer just kept shoving the heavy WJ forward. I eventually got it stopped half way through the intersection, just missing a car that was turning in front of me.

 

The WJ wieghs a lot more than  an MJ, the brakes are far better and it still was not up to the task of towing a trailer. If you are going to do it. You better make certain that the trailer has brakes and they work properly.

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Just DON'T DO IT.

 

I've towed a much lighter trailer and (stripped) XJ behind my '88 MJ. I on;y did it once, and I won't do it again.

 

As noted, stopping is the problem. But it's a lot more than just brakes. The MJ simply isn't heavy enough. I found the trailer was pushing the tow vehicle all over the road.

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Tried to tow a 2006 Camry with the following results. Had towed a parts MJ (minus engine) on a dolly with no problems so thought the truck would handle this. Also had used the trailer on a long trip with the truck once prior but only had an arcade game and kids playhouse on it. Obviously did not have the proper setup, was planning to stop and get a weight distributing hitch in about 6 miles from where i ended up facing east on westbound lanes. Only made it three miles after loading the car. Six months after this i was flagged down by another driver, apparently I had a bent axle on the right rear that I attribute to this as well. Good news, duct tape holds taillights in well as I still have not had the chance to replace the bed yet, but its only been a year. lol

 

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That doesn't count. Any bumper pull, especially on thin wall tube bumpers (they all are thin), is going to be weak.

 

 

I have towed KJ, MJ, xj, TJ, and various small cars behind an xj and an MJ.

 

Latest one was a complete 02 KJ behind a 99 2dr 5 speed xj that was stroked and had a 242 on it. It was out of necessity.

Had to take the interstate for about 10 miles. To make this work, I could not use 5th gear, I had to be in full time, and I could not go past 55mph. Also slowing down required much downshifting, though the brakes seemed to be working well. No trailer brakes either.

 

 

 

But I've also rear ended someone going 2mph in misty conditions coming to a stop using that dolly, a 97 xj, and an MJ with 4.10 and 35" tires.

 

It's all in the conditions on the road, and taking it verrrry slow. Even then, they are still under rated.

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I understand the need to know the proper setup and most here have nailed it...

 

Most important thing is the trailer brakes setup properly because the load is heavier then the vehicle towing it (Just like any Semi out there)

 

I Run a 97+ XJ Booster and a WK SRT8 rear D44 (for the 4 piston Brembo brakes as I am soon to install my Stroker and I tow a lot) and a WJ Front D30 (dual piston Calipers Soon to be Brembo 4 piston)

Custom Heavy Duty receiver Hitch Bolted and Welded to the X Frame...

 

You don't want a lot of Sidewall on your tires either because it will allow too much side to side float when braking hard which is commonly overlooked and Is likely why most get scared when braking

while towing and think it is a problem with the trucks towing capacity...

 

Properly distributing the weight in the trailer and the proper hitch receiver height to keep that tongue weight is very impotant...

 

I have towed LOTS with Both my Lifted CJ7 and My MJ and just by observation I see far too many people out there with improper setups

Just like the Post before me as you can see by the side shot too much tongue weight or box is loaded down to heavy or week rear leafs Etc Etc Etc...

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Tried to tow a 2006 Camry with the following results. Had towed a parts MJ (minus engine) on a dolly with no problems so thought the truck would handle this. Also had used the trailer on a long trip with the truck once prior but only had an arcade game and kids playhouse on it. Obviously did not have the proper setup, was planning to stop and get a weight distributing hitch in about 6 miles from where i ended up facing east on westbound lanes. Only made it three miles after loading the car. Six months after this i was flagged down by another driver, apparently I had a bent axle on the right rear that I attribute to this as well. Good news, duct tape holds taillights in well as I still have not had the chance to replace the bed yet, but its only been a year. lol

 

 

Snakedoc67's MJ is overloaded due to excessive tongue weight or a combination of tongue weight and load weight. That is evident in the pictures posted. Add in the possibility of a significant mechanical failure? I am sorry you wrecked the MJ but from here it looks like the MJ was an innocent party. :) The 5,000 towing capacity of an MJ was not with a D35, either. That may have helped it die. A quick Google shows an automatic Camry at about 3,200 #'s. I can't estimate the weight of the trailer. Your max tow capacity was 3,500 #'s *new*. I have no way of knowing if your truck was near "like new" condition but it looks like the tow rating was exceeded with the car & trailer plus any cargo.

 

Just because you can do it does not mean you should. You got lucky that you did not have to stop in a hurry. That trailer would have pushed the XJ right through whatever you were trying to avoid.

 

I was towing a Mustang on a car trailer behind my WJ. The WJ had a V8, 4X4, discs on all four corners and a brake controller for the trailer. The trailer had brakes but I did not know they didn't work. I was cruising along with the Mustang in tow and all of a sudden a light changed from green to red. I hit the brakes to slow down and there was very little stopping going on. Getting closer to the intersection I really stood on the brakes. The ABS went retarded and the trailer just kept shoving the heavy WJ forward. I eventually got it stopped half way through the intersection, just missing a car that was turning in front of me.

 

The WJ wieghs a lot more than an MJ, the brakes are far better and it still was not up to the task of towing a trailer. If you are going to do it. You better make certain that the trailer has brakes and they work properly.

No matter the vehicle panic stops when loaded and/or pulling a trailer will be more involved than in an unladen vehicle. Does a D3500 make better panic stops unloaded or when pulling 30,000 #'s? Does an MJ make better panic stops when unladen or when carrying 1,000 #'s in the bed? Don't underestimate the advantage that a longer wheelbase will give you in towing & control of the vehicle. The WJ's is about 104-105", pretty short. The V8 in an of itself does nothing for stopping while towing neither does a non-or barely function brake controller so don't get hung up on those things being any kind of aid in your towing experience that time.

 

 

A properly equipped MJ in like new condition should have no problem carrying a properly loaded trailer at the maximum recommended weight. For those of you with the owner's manual go check what that weight actually is. Now be realistic about your MJ when compared to a properly equipped MJ in like new condition.

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Just a disclaimer, I haven't read the whole post, but would an np242 help or hinder towing? I'm referring to being able to use 'full-time' 4x4.

 

Neither 2 wheel drive nor 4 wheel drive makes any difference at all in the ability of the truck to tow anything according to the factory.  A properly equipped 4x4 has the same max tow rating as a properly equipped 4x2.  Check out your factory manual and you will see the same max tow weights. 

 

Lots of good information in the last 4 or 5 posts. Mostly, what is over the towing limits of the MJ.  Post 35 shows why you NEED a frame mounted class 3 hitch WEIGHT DISTRIBUTING hitch.  Post 38 has the trailer brakes, hitch height, and weight distribution nailed.  Post 39 has good information in the last 2 paragraphs about your 25 year old truck's condition and the advantage of the long wheel base.  If I recall correctly, the factory only rates the LWB truck part of the factory "properly equipped" requirement for a 5K tow rating.

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Just a disclaimer, I haven't read the whole post, but would an np242 help or hinder towing? I'm referring to being able to use 'full-time' 4x4.

 

Neither 2 wheel drive nor 4 wheel drive makes any difference at all in the ability of the truck to tow anything according to the factory.  A properly equipped 4x4 has the same max tow rating as a properly equipped 4x2.  Check out your factory manual and you will see the same max tow weights. 

 

Well of course yes I understand that. I was just wondering if it would help pull...better-er. And potentially stop better when you downshift. You know, 4 tires gearing down instead of two. Same for speeding up. No reference to tow rating.

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A 3/4 truck towing a 5000# trailer has a hell of a better chance of stopping it than a 4000# MJ stopping the same weight.

 

My days of towing unsafely are gone and over. I have a CTD 2500, 4x4, CC, Long box for that duty. I also has a brake controller, WDH and a sway controller. Is my Cummins a bit too much truck to tow an MJ or my 6000# travel trailer? I say no. Just like a torque wrench, you don't want to be on the either end of its limits. I choose to purchase the right tool for the job, instead of making one work at its limit.

 

Take all the advice that was given in these posts and draw your own conclusion.

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A 3/4 truck towing a 5000# trailer has a hell of a better chance of stopping it than a 4000# MJ stopping the same weight.

 

My days of towing unsafely are gone and over. I have a CTD 2500, 4x4, CC, Long box for that duty. I also has a brake controller, WDH and a sway controller. Is my Cummins a bit too much truck to tow an MJ or my 6000# travel trailer? I say no. Just like a torque wrench, you don't want to be on the either end of its limits. I choose to purchase the right tool for the job, instead of making one work at its limit.

 

Take all the advice that was given in these posts and draw your own conclusion.

There is no such thing as overkill when it comes to things like this.

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