Rear Brakes-Main Hardline Broken Above Gas Tank

[JWARNE]

Would it be easier to just take the bed off instead of removing gas tank?  Also I have zero experience bending lines and flaring ends so any advise on this issue would be great.

[MJRemi]

I think you have to remove the tank in order to remove the bed. If not, it's a lot easier to remove the tank than the bed. There are several youtube videos and web threads that explain flaring and bending but if you are not confident you should have a shop repair the line and properly bleed the brakes. Safety should be first priority.

[JWARNE]

I was afraid that the tank would have to come out.  Really didnt want to remove the tank in case of creating fuel line issues. Seems like everytime you want to fix one thing you end up rebuilding several other things.  I guess its a good thing since i need to clean and prep for a flatbed later this summer.  I will not be paying any shop to fix anything on this truck the rates these days for mechanics is to high.  I guess learning to do the harlines isnt a bad idea more then likely Ill find more then just the one broken/corroded line to fix. thanks

[Biotex]

You can purchase pre flared brake lines. You can also get it so that it can be bent by hand. The problem is length. You may have an extra foot or so, and would reguire you to loop it to take up the extra unneeded tube.

Take the old one off, measure it, and see if you gan get a new one withing a few inches longer. You can pre-bend it also, matching it to the old one.

Another thing I did once, was to get one too long, and then cut it to length. This way you only have to make one double flare.

[KYMJ]

I didn't remove bed or tank to replace my brake lines. I had to use several short lines for mine, just get some unions for connecting sections.

[HOrnbrod]

Double flare unions, not compression unions which I'm sure is what you meant. Compression fittings in brake lines are a no más for state inspections.   :thumbsup: 

[KYMJ]

Correct, sir.

[Mountain Dude]

I had the same problem...blew 1 brake line next to the fuel tank. Fixed it by doing the load sensing valve bypass and using the other brake line which, fortunately was not rusted out.

[Eagle]

I was afraid that the tank would have to come out.  Really didnt want to remove the tank in case of creating fuel line issues.

 

You don't have to remove either the bed or the tank. Above the gas tank is where they always break. I've repaired two of them that broke there and I didn't remove the bed or drop the tank either time.

[phenryiv1]

Bumping this rather than making a new thread...

 

So I have a break in the line where the line goes vertical at the front of the tank.  The lines came out of the carrier/holder and friction with the gas tank skid rubbed a hole in the line.  I removed the skid and loosened the tank (giving a bit of room to move) but I still lack the clearance to cut and flare in that section.  It sounds like replacing that line that runs up and over the tank is my best option.

 

Is there a tip or trick to getting the line up and over the tank?

[Incommando]

I replaced mine without removing either, you just have to work with it.  And yes the tank does mount to the bed so if you went that route you would just drop the tank. Those bed mounting bolts can be a bear to get out without busting either the bolt off or the captive nut loose. Sometimes you can remove the tank by placing a board about the size of the tank on you floor jack and gently jacking it up. I got lucky and could slip the j-hooks out of the bed mounts this way. 

[Rockfrog]

When I replaced my rear brake lines I didn't touch the tank or bed.

I pulled the whole rear circuits, of which pretty much everything behind the tank to rear was crumbly rotten. I used a section of the rear line running from the dist valve the just forward of the Crossmember, had that flared and used a union and a 60" pre-fabricated length. Bent to suit, another 36" pre Fab length, bend and cut to length. Had a local brake shop do my flaring, $5 a flare when they remembered to charge me.

I also used the opportunity to swap in an XJ prop valve and delete the load valve.

But now, if I have a rear line problem it's all easy to get at and replace with off the shelf prefab lengths ... I also snagged a double flare kit for the future.

[jimoshel]

I had a cracked fuel line 6 inches from the tank. Out came the torch and coat hanger. Maybe I should have drained the tank first. Haven't seen an explosion like that since I got out of demolitions in the Army. Wife said I was so ugly to start with, the scars on the face will probably be an improvement. :doh:

[64 Cheyenne]

I had a cracked fuel line 6 inches from the tank. Out came the torch and coat hanger. Maybe I should have drained the tank first. Haven't seen an explosion like that since I got out of demolitions in the Army. Wife said I was so ugly to start with, the scars on the face will probably be an improvement. :doh:

 

Hate it when that happens! :rotf:

[phenryiv1]

So I got it replaced but am having bleed issues.  I ended up wiht a hole in the gas tank so that needed to be relaced.  It was not obvious until I removed the skidplate but there was a distinctive smell of gas on th einside of the plate.  Inspection revealed a small hole in the tank at the rearmost strap.