JWARNE

I was afraid that the tank would have to come out. Really didnt want to remove the tank in case of creating fuel line issues. Seems like everytime you want to fix one thing you end up rebuilding several other things. I guess its a good thing since i need to clean and prep for a flatbed later this summer. I will not be paying any shop to fix anything on this truck the rates these days for mechanics is to high. I guess learning to do the harlines isnt a bad idea more then likely Ill find more then just the one broken/corroded line to fix. thanks

Would it be easier to just take the bed off instead of removing gas tank? Also I have zero experience bending lines and flaring ends so any advise on this issue would be great.

The vaccum worked great along side a small pick to dislodge the buildup of stuff. Sucked all of it up as it came off then cleaned the bore holes with qtips soaked in carb cleaner did the same in the fuel rail. I did the assembly of the o-rings onto the injectors and fuel pressure regulator then everything into the fuel rail indoors after all the parts had warmed to room temp. With a very small amount of lube the injectors and pressure regulator slipped easlily into the fuel rail. I lubed up the bore holes and bottom o-rings and the whole assembly went in with no problems. My first attempt was outside and it was cold the injectors and o-ring were next to impossible to install into the fuel rail and almost every one tore while pressing into the intake. Lesson Learned

These Hell Creek MT leafs on my jeep have two overload leafs under the main leaf. I was actually thinking about removing one of them if I did go to SOA just to reduce the lift as much as i can. Also thought about making a oversized spring perch (longer perch) to help with the spring wrap issue not sure that would work all that great though since the u-bolts only anchor the leaf down in an area the width of the axle tube. Thanks for the responses and information on this traction bar issue. I honestly didnt feel its necessary for my application but a few people who have been building 4x4's for way longer than I preached about the traction bar.

Getting ready to install a D44 rear axle and was comptemplating going spring over axle although lots of other issues arise the more i look into this option. Beyond having to build up the front suspension and steering components I keep reading and being told that a traction bar is an absolute necessity if you run spring over axle. I don't per say take my truck wheeling but i do travel off road in the mountains on old skid trails for work and out on the prairie through some hairy drainages/slough bottoms and river bluff areas . I need the clearance and floatation that 33'' tires offer and some but not extreme articulation. If truck is spring over axle is traction bar necessary? If it is then why when the truck is spring under it doesnt? the same forces are being applied on the springs via drive shaft and diff pinion moving forward and in reverse. Only thing changing is the angle on the drive shaft ends from the transfer case and differential which both can be accounted for i.e.(SYE, altering the angle of the rear axle to accomidate the driveshaft) so I must be not understanding some of the physics and geometry here. Help!! I need to get my new axles and tires under the truck before snow fly and that happened last week. I'm really only trying to gain clearance under the axles with 2'' more of tire over the 31'' tires I'm running now and by moving the leaf springs above the axle. I want to keep the truck as low as possible achieving both the spring over axle and clearing the 33'' tires. I am willing to trim fenders thats not an issue its the spring under that bothers me.

I never lock my truck unless its long term, otherwise my dog takes care of business if people get to close. She has that jeep on lock down especially if she is in the cab, sometimes I worry she is the one that will break the window out. But if you don't have a fury tag along everwhere you go take the time to place a spare key set (both door lock and ignition) somewhere on your truck. Breaking into my own truck just isn't a option in my opinion.

This mj has the xj wagoneer header panel and grille assembly on it?

Sounds like a goggles required job!! Ill will definately try that is the vaccum things doesnt work out. Is this adapter you speak of easily attainable at any parts store?

Picked them out of a two door xj at my local salvage yard. I had never seen them before either, had to have them. Had them mounted to my old bench seat brackets 2hr's later. My back thanks me for ditching that bench seat!!!

I was thinking about using a shop vac to suck up all the $#!& as i scaped it out. Going to clean the bore holes only no motor dissassembly since a rebuild is in the very near future. thanks anyhow

Had a leaking injector so to keep my truck from starting on fire I went to replace the o rings on my injectors and fuel rail assemly. I found large deposits of crud in my injector bore holes. How do I clean them without all this crud falling into my intake and running through my motor?

Maybe pictures will help! These seats need covers that fit!!!!

Install D44 with disk brake setup that has been sitting in my old mans garage for a year now, replace rocker and fix bed side over the wheel well and or flat bed my truck which could be ok while i work on fixing the bed. Install new front coils and JKS adjustable coil spacers to support ARB bumper. And finally the old man and I are going to either build a stroker with my existing block, head and kit or I'm going to unload on a new motor. Which by the way anyone have an opinion on who makes the best kits or builds the best motors? Titan or Hesco? some other jeep engine builder?

I installed them almost a year ago. I use my truck for mostly hunting and work with some daily driving so I had little worries about potential whiplash. The seats work incredibly well for packing stuff in and out of the truck. I still need seat covers though and I don't want to pay for a new uphostery job! Oh and these seats came from the factory with no headrests couldnt put them in if I had them.

Found these folding, sliding seats which will also lie back. mounted them in the truck and now I want to preserve them. Having trouble finding nice low back seat covers which do not have a slot in the top for a headrest. Anybody know of anything beyond custom seat covers?

yeah I have been looking at the rockers off the xj models though these z&m parts just seemed so much more straight forward. thanks for the info sinkrun. I think its just time to bite the bullet and buy myself a donor comanche

Wow!!!!! I havent been so excited and then let down like this since childhood. Read through this whole thread and then the second to last post just crushed me!!!! Ok so beyond the bedside panels does Z&M still sell the rockers and floor pans? please tell me they do. I can patch the bed but those rockers and floor pans are critical