Hayduke's Operation Comanche Repower - 88 To 98 Swap

[GHayduke]

I looked at the gas tanks last night and tested the fuel sender OHM range.  The sender in the 95' tank looks to have a completely different range so it looks like I need a different sender unit.  The local boneyard has some Dakota's so I'll go look for a 97-01 fuel sender / pump unit.  I'll have to see if it's cheaper to by a whole tank or just the sender.  So I'd be putting a 98' ish sender in a 95' tank.  Any tips on this?  I've seen a lot on this in other treads, but no best way to do it.

 

I also confirmed the engine turns over / runs.  I poured in a little fuel down the intake & the engine started right up with no hesitation / almost no cranking. It ran for a few seconds, so I believe the new distributor is in correctly. It sounds pretty intense with no exhaust on it!  Made me think of a top fuel dragster inside the garage.

[GHayduke]

I moved over the door seals from XJ to MJ this weekend, in preparation for the XJ donor leaving....

 

Below is a fuzzy picture of the door trim I mentioned,  I'm wondering how past conversion folk addressed this?  maybe replace it with some other generic gasket materialn as The MJ does not have the body seam it mounts on?

 

[GHayduke]

I posted the brief video of my engine running!  Just not sure how to attach / link it from Photobucket, & have it show the pic?

 

 

We added Farm & Fleet trans fluid and ran the engine a few times to flush the old fluid from the trans and torq converter.  As the gas tank is not done, I put the XJ fuel pump in a clean bucket of fuel to run it.  I think I'll get a 1998 Dakota fuel sender/pump unit?  Is this my best bet?   We did this a couple times until the fluid came out clean & stoped coming out much.  I'll refill it with Amsoil severe duty trans fluid to button it up.

 

Next I started preping the XJ for removal from the garage... Stay tuned for " Operation Cherokee Demise (sounds like genoside but it's not!) "  later today!........

[GHayduke]

Operation Cherokee Demise(sounds like genoside but it's not!) :

 

The donor Cherokee Classic I had had a title problem, The title had been signed by a buyer, whom then backed out of the sale. so the title has a wrong name on it.

So I'd have to pay to correct the title to take it to the Boneyard, who likely wouldn't want whats left of it (just the shell).

Special thanks to my friend Zack who assisted me in making a XJ take up less space. First we removed everything we could use.  Both axles will go to new homes as well.

Here's what we pushed out of the garage:

 

Here are a few additional picks for fun:

We employed 2 sawsalls, a plasma cutter, a angle grinder with cut-off wheels, and a 16 pound hammer.....

 

XJ halfs anyone? (I'm behind the hood)

 

The neighbors heard metallic cutting noises into the night........... the wife said it felt like the house was shaking....

 

 

 

And here it is ready to go to the scrap yard to be recycled into your dinner fork :

 

We cut these chunks just small enough to put in and push out of the truck...

 

 

These will go to the scrap yard along with some old exhaust systems, the old trans I can't sell, etc..... & I now have space in my garage to work! :banana:

[RyanL]

The trim you mentioned earlier in the thread is the drip edge. It is used to prevent "wind water", or water pushed by the wind when you are driving, from getting in the doors while you are moving. And the MJ has its own trim, with 5 (or 6) holes in the frame where push pins hold it in.

[GHayduke]

Thanks Ryan,  My MJ has the drip edge on one side (passeger) & it's missing on the other.  I think I might have another somewhere.  I'll have to decide if I want to go with the factory solution, or find some generic adhesive closed cell foam insulation to do the same thing.  Thanks again for letting me know what it's for.  I imagine it would help with heavy wind / wind noise as well. 

[RyanL]

It helps to a degree, but with literally square everything, the MJ was never an aerodynamic truck haha :rotf:

[GHayduke]

On to the interior... I decided to recover the back wall.  I also cut down the Chero headliner to fit in the Manche.  I started with the back wall as that will be less seen.  Stripped it with a wire brush and fiberglass brush in a drill.  Sandpaper if anal, used alcohol and a rag to prep for glue.

 

 

For cost and cleaning sake I decided to try Polar or 'Blizzard' Fleece from Joann fabrics.  It was cheaper than headliner material and came in darker colors that won't show dirty fingerprints so well. 

I researched online and decided to try 3M 08088 Adhesive, the medium strength as I couldn't find the heavy duty in the store.

Put a coat on both fabric & board in one direction, wait a minute, do a coat in the other direction, wait 1:30sec and stick em together trying not to get wrinkles....

then flip the board and glue the edges and holes the same way...

 

Came out good for my first attempt at doing it. I have a few wrinkles but sides and top edges get covered by the back walls anyway....

[GHayduke]

Headliner time:  Exciting considering I never had one!  When it rained hard it sounded like the inside of a drum in the cab.  Probablly not the warmest choice of roof treatments either...

I cut down the XJ headliner slowly in the rear test fitting until it sit as high as I wanted.  It will still be a stretch (or flex) to push it up high enough to install the dome light from the XJ. 

 

 

First I covered it like the back wall cutting myself on the fiberglass edge... But man it looks good compared to before!

 

 

Then I glued on some Double Bubble Foil insulation to the top for insulation.  This stuff in used to wrap water heaters and in industrial buildings.  Basicly two layers of bubble wrap surounded /divided by a heavy foil.

 

 

I then glued some to the inside of the MJ roof as well.  This should stop the tin roof sound.  There will still be an air space between the two layers of insulation once installed.  Should work well I think...

 

 

Here are two pieces curing for awhile before install....

 

Woo.

[Herc]

Excellent work, keep it up the truck is looking great!

[dscowell]

Exciting considering I never had one!  When it rained hard it sounded like the inside of a drum in the cab.  Probablly not the warmest choice of roof treatments either...

I know how that goes every sound is that much louder too

[GHayduke]

Thanks guys,  I'm trying to decide if and how much of that insulation to put in other parts of the cab.  Both as insulation and sound deadening. Like the back wall / B pillars / Floor? 

 

The nice thing is, as it's foil and plastic, it shouldn't absorb and hold water like some other insulation options.

[GHayduke]

Axle Swap or Gas tank first?  pull the truck bed?

 

Should I do the XJ C8.25 rear axle swap first, before putting the gas tank in?  (easier to check driveshaft clearance (IF I had a driveshaft).  Or do I pull the old axle and fight the 22gal Dakota tank with more room under the truck (on Jackstands no axle) & worry about fine tuning position later? Hmmm. 

 

We held the 95' tank up under the truck and didn't see anything that appeared to push the tank toward the axle? I will have to space it down a Inch or 2 though.

 

I've seen some folks work on the axle & gas tank without the bed on the truck (would be nice) but I think the gas tank mounts are on the bed/ not the frame?  If this is the case then only the axle could be done.....  

 

Maybe someone who has done this before could offer advice?

[RyanL]

We had the bed off for the axle swap as well as the gas tank installation. It made it easier to be able to work from above by far, The axle swap is easy just the U bolts and the leaf spring bolts and the axle rolls out.

 

The gas tank won't fit unless you jack up the truck on one side and slide it in (at stock height at least). Both need to be done, but I would recommend doing the axle swap then the tank.

 

The gas tank mounts are on the bed but we temporarily strapped the tank to the frame rail to run it while we worked on the bed. It also helped to have the bed off when we were dealing with the clearance issues with the tank (easier to see it with the driveshaft in and the bed off).  

 

If you do the axle swap then the tank, you can hold your old driveshaft up on the new axle and check clearances.

 

Just some thoughts,

Ryan

[Alexia]

Yep, definitely do the axle swap first. That will show if there will be an issue with the gas tank interfering with the larger axle. Bed on or off is preference. I am short enough to sit up straight underneath and can squirm around rather well.

[GHayduke]

Thanks, I'll do the axle swap  first, I just ordered the parts.  Now I just need to figure out the shock mounts & If I'll move em or make new ones?

Any other advice is always appreaciated!

 

Alexia- Your MJ is also very tall!!! :laughin:

I'm trying to keep this truck a bit low so I can still easily load & unload the bed..... If I want to sit up under a Jeep I've got my trail rig  :yes:

 

I've already got two trucks that are so tall it's hard to put stuff in the back...  MJ is supposed to be my daily driver!

[GHayduke]

Operation Cherokee Demise(sounds like genoside but it's not!) ........... Continued...

 

Friday night after retuning from Elkhorn WI. to trade stuff for my new truck topper / cap,  we loaded the tow rig with what was left of the XJ and some other bits that are done.

I was thinking people behind me must have wondered what I was hauling Saturday AM:

 

 

I ended up selling over a 1200 pounds of scrap steel.  I couldn't see out the back window, but otherwise the Cummins didn't really know it was there....

 

 

So much more room in the yard now!  I still have to take all the Aluminum & Copper to another yard at some point.... But no more XJ taking up space.  I'm now down to three Jeeps.

 

 

 

 

[GHayduke]

Build progress:  I also worked on mating the XJ & MJ interior peices & installing the back wall and headliner Sunday.  I'm waiting on the carpet until I get the wiring all functional.   I'm missing a relay, etc. for the power seat heaters.  I don't want to cover the wiring too much before I know it all works.

 

Note to future builders:  Install the 'A" pillar plastics before putting on the dash end caps or you'll be disassembling to assemble later!

[GHayduke]

Interior Update:  I worked on cleaning up and fitting the XJ & MJ interior pieces together and got the driver side in.  There are a few places I want work on and fit up better but works for now.  I used more double bubble foil on the side walls to provide some insulation... some foil is inside the B pillar and some on it....

 

 

Another oops,  I think I lost the rear wall trim rings the go around the seat belts.  I'll likely be hunting those down for awhile.  I then realize I'd gotten ahead of myself.  I need to fit the rear door latches before I can install the back side walls, So I'll be pulling the one side and working on doors soon.  But the headliner is about in & the Back wall looks like is should work well!

 

[GHayduke]

I also worked on the gas tank and almost have it ready to go.  I added a brass 3/4 threaded to 1/2 hose angle fitting as the gas tank vent.  It's nutted on both sides. it cost around $10 in parts.

 

 

I then added a stock MJ vent / roll-over valve for the line going to the emmisions box.  I plan to better fasten this in before calling it done. This is now by the front handle.

 

 

I also need to find a new plug because the new 98' Dakota fuel sender unit uses a completely different plug than the 95' or 98' XJ.

[huck731]

looks good, I hope that topper turns out nice for ya.

[GHayduke]

Update:  I installed the doors last night, I still need to adjust them & don't know what I'm doing.  It seams like I don't have enough Shims from the XJ as it only had single thinkless plates or triple thick (three welded together).  Now I wish I hadn't included the back door shims with the rear doors I sold...   I guess I'll unbolt the hinges and add the MJ shims/spacer plates and go from there... no pics yet, but I don't mind the black doors look for now.... Still need to replace the passenger side fender too.

[GHayduke]

A friend came over to use the welder and plasma cuttter, so I switched tasks to the C8.25 rear axle.  I cut off the spring perches and shock mounts, and cleaned up the axle tubes. 

At one point I tipped the plasma cutter at too much of a angle cutting off a spring perch and gouged the axle tube to the point I made a small hole clear to the inside of the tube causing hot gear oil to shoot out at me..... I wouldn't recommend this! :laughin:   

No worries, I drained the oil, cleaned the area and welded it shut with the Miller 252 MIG welder. I then ground it and the axle tubes smooth.  We then removed the MJ's D35 axle, and I disassembled the spring packs and added the Rancho Add-A-Leaf.  It seemed to have about the same curvature as the main leaf at rest:

 

 

Here's the completed add-a-leaf pack in the forground & the factory pack in the back....

 

 

We installed the C8.25 Cherro axle just sitting on the new perches and tightened it down just enough so the axle would not move.  We put the wheels back on and dropped the vehicle to the ground and jounced it awhile to settle the springs as stated in the add-a-leaf instructions.  I put the old drivehaft in to see where the true shaft end point was off the transfercase.  I next cut peice of pipe just shorter than the driveshaft and put it on the axle yoke nut and held it at the transfercase end and had two friends eyeball the angle and adjusted it to straight.

 

 

We determined the add-a-leaf isn't going to give me more than a inch and longer shackles will be in my future, so we tipped the axle yolk down a hair more to account for this. I then tacked the perches in place.  We disassembled and fliped the axle 180 degrees so I could finish welding on the perches.  If not happy with the angle I could add degree shims later.

When removing the axle D35 I was thrilled to see the shock mounts are on the MJ spring plates so I likely won't need to weld shock mounts on the axle! :banana:

I gave the axle a good coat of black paint,  Next step will be to pull the cover and axle shafts.  Put in new axle seals and new brakes including all new hardware, and button the axle up..... Soon I will need to call Tom Woods.....

 

What are you guys using for a longer rear brake flexline?  I'm guessing a line from a taller vehicle?

 

[Bornindesert]

For the back brake rear center hose check out Alexia's budget lift DIY thread. I am using the Dorman H38636 from a 1989-1996 Dodge Dakota from the part list in his thread (thanks!). It's like 5 in longer than the stock Comanche.

 

You can also relocate or fab a different bracket to get a little more length.

[GHayduke]

Excellent, Thanks for the info.