GHayduke Posted June 26, 2013 Author Share Posted June 26, 2013 Thanks phenryiv1, I'm actually thinking of changing the color or the vehicle now. I'll be using new doors, hood, and likely new passenger fender. Anyone ever seen WoodGrain on a Comanche before? (like a Waggoneer) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted June 26, 2013 Author Share Posted June 26, 2013 Last night I cut down the XJ headliner and put it in the MJ. I tried measuring but eventually just had to keep taking off a little in the back until it fit. Because the MJ has a high roof (pimp top!) compared to the XJ, there's a lot of dead space. This is a issue because I want to use the xj dome light and it hangs down 1 inch from the roof. The MJ has about 3 inches of space. I was able to trim the headliner so it sits higher in the rear, but still have about 2- 2&1/2 inches of extra space. I might try trimming it a little more, but don't want to go too far. I'm also considering using the rear of the XJ headliner as a rear wall (cover), complete with the speakers and dome light. Anyone seen this before? The XJ has the speaker pod thats built into the headliner. I may need to make the headliner wider to do this. Once the headliner and wall fit, I plan to recover them before final assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted June 27, 2013 Author Share Posted June 27, 2013 I worked with the rear XJ headliner speaker pod to see if it would fit on the back wall. It would need to be recovered and tweaked, but looks like it will work if I decide to go that way.... What do you think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phenryiv1 Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 Not the most solid mounting for the rear speakers (they will probably vibrate), but it looks better than the original covering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bornindesert Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 For the rear wall covering...pretty good thinking on re-using the XJ speaker pods. I'd consider flipping it though, give some more room behind the seat near the floor and bring up the light so it can shine higher in the cab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 Not the most solid mounting for the rear speakers (they will probably vibrate), but it looks better than the original covering. Original Covering??? All I ever had was a bare metal wall! I've never even seen one covered.... Thanks for both your feedback, The pod is mounted that way so the speakers aim up rather than down. I'm leaving it mocked up awhile while I decide if I like it. In the mean time I'm working on other stuff. I mounted the engine computer like it was spaced on the XJ and started getting ready for the front Axle swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 I spent Friday attacking the XJ Axle and getting the wheel lug nuts free. Some were rusted on badly. The chrome caps poped off and I had a real fight to get the frozen nuts off. I also undid the locating arms, brakelines, steering arm, & trackbar. The sway bar links both broke. I removed the motor mounts and brakets, and the trackbar mount/bracket. Everything was so rusty it took about 7 hours. The XJ body looks ok, but the underside shows it lived here in the rustbelt where we salt our roads in winter. It's time for a few new wheels studs or just new unit bearings. Saturday, A friend and I attacked the MJ which is in much better shape and comes apart more easily. The only big issue was each jeep had a Lower control arm bolt frozen in the frame side. I ended up leaving them in and disconnecting at the axle instead. After much work the axles were free and getting draged accross the floor. We then fought the rubber bump stops that go inside the front springs. On a TJ these pop out and the's a nut to hold the mount or cup on. You have to remove the cup to add new spring isolators or spacers. On the 98 XJ these looked to be welded on. On the 88 MJ, we tried in vain to remove the rubber stop. We were torching the mount and found out you can twist and uncrew the entire cup and stop as one peice on a MJ. We then removed the bad isolator and added a spacer and a new isolator. Because the factory isolator was falling apart on one side we diched them, meaning I'll end up with a little over 1&1/2 inches of lift.... For the most part the Axle swap went well & my two wheel drive is now well on it's way to being a 4WD.... The MJ should be happy! The MJ also grew a lot! With the additional lift I'll need new Shocks and I'll have to lengthen or replace the stock size 2wd MJ swaybar links. I'm thinking I'll be looking for JK take-off shocks unless someon has a better idea.... What do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phenryiv1 Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 Not the most solid mounting for the rear speakers (they will probably vibrate), but it looks better than the original covering. Original Covering??? All I ever had was a bare metal wall! I've never even seen one covered.... Thanks for both your feedback, The pod is mounted that way so the speakers aim up rather than down. I'm leaving it mocked up awhile while I decide if I like it. In the mean time I'm working on other stuff. I mounted the engine computer like it was spaced on the XJ and started getting ready for the front Axle swap. Mine had automotive-grade carpeting over bare metal. Nothing to write home about, so yours looks far better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bornindesert Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 I did snag a set of JK Rubicon Shocks off Phx Craigslist for $50, brand new. You know they require a minor mod to press out the lower front shock mount bushing so you can install a bar pin. The rear shocks just need the bar pins pressed out. I've not installed on my XJ yet, but they should be good for 1-2" of lift, more if you buy a bar-pin eliminator for the front axle. If you move the rear shock mount up to the axle, would also give you more travel using this shock. Your project is moving right along! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 Did some more prep for the driveline to go in. I installed the brake master cylinder & proportioning valve, installed the brakelines making some new ones. The one for the rear just goes to the rear of the Jeep for now until rear axle time. I still seem to have plenty of front flex line so I didn't relocate my brake lines on the body. I then removed the stock fuel lines,vent lines, and dead brake lines including the broken looking rear weight sensitive brake valve for the rear axle. I then hotwired the fuel pump and pumped the gas out (8 gallons for the beater TJ!) and removed the gas tank. Next I'll run the XJ fuel lines and vent lines... I removed the rust from the XJ engine mount plates, detergent washed, alcoholed, and painted the mounts black... Almost ready to rock! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted July 20, 2013 Author Share Posted July 20, 2013 I removed the emmisions box, vent lines and fuel lines from the XJ. I also scored some JK take off shocks from a local garage. I'll take some pics when I install stuff tonight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted July 21, 2013 Author Share Posted July 21, 2013 I installed the fuel line & emissions lines in the MJ. The XJ fuel line I cut off roughly where the gas tank will go for now. I also found that the emissions canister will have to move forward per it would go were the gas tank goes. I'm concerned it will be in the way of the transfer case, So I'll install it after the drivetrain. I added the engine mount plates and mounts, I've ordered a new CPS, then the engine can go in! I'm hoping to do so next weekend. Once the weight of the drivetrain is in I'll see how the nose sits and can address the sway-bar and trackbar..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted July 29, 2013 Author Share Posted July 29, 2013 Update Time! The Engine compartment looked so empty we filled it this weekend. It was raining so the engine & trans went on the hoist. the truck was rolled out, hoist rolled in & truck pushed back in most of the way.... The engine hoist chain and bracket chewed up the top lip of the firewall just above the engine some, but overall no big issues.. (Shhhh..I'm hiding behind the hoist).. For the most part it went right in, accept we needed to tap fresh crossmember mounting holes to get the bolts to go in. the crossmember sits quite a ways back from the old location in previously virgin holes. the truck sits at a nice height with the engine/trans & transfercase installed.... I'm thinking of doing two inch lift springs in the rear with the Cherro axle & then see how it sits..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted July 29, 2013 Author Share Posted July 29, 2013 One more pic for ya............ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Great progress :clapping: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danbyrambler Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Wow - - - Lookin' good - - - Nothing like a yellow engine compartment to highlight the equipment :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phenryiv1 Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Looks good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted July 31, 2013 Author Share Posted July 31, 2013 I welded on the dome light braket last night. I also washed the engine wiring harness and AC hoses.... Anyone know how to put the AC system back together? I'm think I need new o-rings and I put PAG 100 oil on all the connections? Should I attempt to drain my old compressor of oil? I'm new to working on AC. I plan to put it all together & have it pressure tested and filled. Any tips or instructions would be appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 Weekend Update: I cleaned up the wiring in the cab and passed the rear lighting and fuel tank wiring through gromets in the floor. I RTV'd the MJ & XJ grommets in place and gorilla taped them so I don't bump them out before the carpet goes in. Shown is the underside wiring and fuel line in so far. Still need to finish emmisions line and rear brake line. It appears there is room behind the transfercase to put the emmisions box as planned. I then put most of the dash back together so I'm ready to see if the engine will start (if all wiring is right). I also put in the center consol. After Everything is confirmed to work, I'll put in the carpet and make it pretty, but for now I want access to the wiring. The underside of the Jeep is shaping up nicely. I use up the old paint colors I have around to do underside stuff that won't be seen. Here in the rust belt, road salt and rust are a big problem, keeping things painted really helps. I also paint all new parts light blue to track what I replaced. yes, I like bright colors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 Sunday I installed a new starter and the MJ battery tray with the batt temp sensor now in it. I also completed most of the wiring to the engine (alt, starter, grounds). I still need the ground from the firewall to intake. I also installed the new trans lines. One of the lines / fittings does not want to clip into the trans very well (stay cliped when pulled on) . I'm hoping it will seat and stay once it heats and cools? Otherwise It'll just shoot trans fluid everywhere! :doh: Do the small barrel like fittings unscrew from the trans so I can clean them out? (without causing issues) the one is rusty. I also need to take care of the rust on the underside floor starting.... This week I plan add fluids and maybe install seat belts before the weekend...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bornindesert Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 I welded on the dome light braket last night. I also washed the engine wiring harness and AC hoses.... Anyone know how to put the AC system back together? I'm think I need new o-rings and I put PAG 100 oil on all the connections? Should I attempt to drain my old compressor of oil? I'm new to working on AC. I plan to put it all together & have it pressure tested and filled. Any tips or instructions would be appreciated! Just converted my Comanche over to R134a, so here is the basic process. You'll need R134a fittings for high and low pressure side of the compressor if it was previously R22. If it was R22, you should remove compressor and dryer, drain them into something that measures ounces. I flushed mine with clean parts cleaner and blew it out before reinstalling. I'd go ahead and get a new dryer/receiver from RockAuto, they are only like $20 and don't reverse the brass check valves (they are not available). Order the O-ring conversion kit from RockAuto while you are there or pick up locally. Get some Synthetic PAG with dye already in it. Remove all the lines and TX valve, replace with green o-rings and yes you can coat them with the new PAG oil. Be very careful with your condensor, it's aluminum and you can easily strip the threads. If you do, like I did (they came apart extremely hard) it's back to Rock Auto for a new condensor. There are a few different liguid line set-ups, the ones that go all the way through the radiator support are more common than "American" or dealer installed A/C. You'll need to pull the grill, front header and top brace to get at the condensor (might be a way around it, but that's what I did). When converting from R22 to R134a, replace the old PAG oil (non-synthetic) with an equal amount of new PAG oil, plus 1-2 oz's over what you recovered. Should be looking at like 5-6 oz's. Button everything up, tight but not too tight. If you don't have a vacuum pump, or gages, or R134a charging attachment...go to a local garage and have them pull a vacuum for 30-45 minutes, see if it holds (another 45 minutes or so) and then charge with, and I may not have this totally correct...two and 1/2 cans of R134a. I started with just two cans and the air is ice cold. When I do the other Comanche, I'll splint one can between them. Good luck, let me know if this all makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted August 6, 2013 Author Share Posted August 6, 2013 Bornindesert- Yeah I think that makes sense for the most part. My MJ never had A/C before. The new 98' engine set-up came with R134a style A/C already, so I just have to get it working. I ordered a condenser and dryer, liquid line, and will likely just order the other main line as the old connection to the condeser is rusted and does now want to come apart. I'm debating if I should remove the pump and try to drain the old oil from it and start fresh. I think it only has one side plug (that I see). Do I then just pour in the (some amount of) liquid PAG100 oil before connecting up the system? Someone mentioned adding the oil to various places in the system: pump, drier, etc? My past expirience has just been recharging a weak system.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bornindesert Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 Much easier job starting with a R134a system. The pump and drier are the two components that hold oil. Not much oil came out of my old drier, but I'd still drain the old so you know what it held, then add (pour in) about 1 oz of PAG100 in addition to what you got out of it. Same for the compressor if you decide to go the extra yard and replace the old PAG100. Main reason to do the compressor is when you switch over from R22, so I think you'd be OK there. If you did add PAG, try to get it in via the side plug, not the ports. Adding 1 oz to the compressor probably would be a safe thing to do. Definitely pull a vacuum to get all the moisture out once the lines are buttoned up, that is a key step before you charge it back up. Other things you could do - get the valve kit which let's your replace the Shrader valves and Dust caps on the compressor ports. That's an easy step and should eliminate a potential leak area. I'm not a certificed AC mechanic, but have done a bit of research and just passing along what I've learned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted August 7, 2013 Author Share Posted August 7, 2013 Thanks Bornindesert- How do you drain the drier? I also know the service manual provides specs on the number of ounces of oil the total system holds. Weekday Update: last night I modified the mounts and installed the XJ seat belts. Image Not Found I also looked at the MJ/XJ door seals and it appears the main door seal will fit fine. There is a secondary front upper seal on the XJ that fits on a track that the MJ does not have. How have others done this seal? Glue it? Replace it with something else? I can take a picture later if you don't know what I'm referring too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bornindesert Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 The best you can do with the drier is take all the fittings off and let the oil run out in a pan. If you had a large funnel I guess that would work too. It drained out pretty slow in my case, and only got like an oz out of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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