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Georgia: '92 4.0 Ho, Ax-15, 2Wd


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Put POR-15 on the pass floorboard.  They were in good shape overall, with one nickel size hole in the pass floor pan

 

 

Also cleaned up the pass fender.  Removed the black vinyl tape stripe, the "sport" decal, and panted the bottom of the fender red (as opposed to black from the donor Cherokee sport).  Not perfect but a lot better:

 

Before:

 

After:

 

 

Also a glamour shot with the '91 I found for sale:

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
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  Finally had a chance to clean & POR-15 the driver's side floor.  There was a fair amount of rust hiding under the seam sealer and the clutch MC had been leaking for quite a while but, overall, the floors were pretty decent.

 

 

 

Note the random corner of sharp steel Toledo #2 left sticking out of the floor:

 

 

 

Finished product:

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 Did adding the foam to the bench help? My bench is in great shape, but when I sit in the drivers spot I sink a good 4 inches. The passenger side still sits like new.

  :)  And before any comments about going on a diet I only weigh 160.

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In order to make the new pump fit you have to cut 2 tabs off the top retainer for the fuel pump.  When finished the retainer should look like this:

I had to make the same modifications to fit my Airtex "direct replacement" pump.

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Did adding the foam to the bench help? My bench is in great shape, but when I sit in the drivers spot I sink a good 4 inches.

 

  It helped to a certain extent (no more hole to sink into) but the seat was less pliant with all the foam filling the hole.  I think I added too thick a piece of foam.  I took the bench apart and it turns out the bottom cushion is replaceable (seat back foam is bonded directly to the frame).  The ideal solution would be to find the bottom foam at the jy and replace just the foam.  The fabric can be ripped/stained as long as the foam is ok.

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I had to make the same modifications to fit my Airtex "direct replacement" pump.

 

  I'll be curious to see how the Airtex pump performs over the long haul vs. the Bosch.  Did your instructions chronicle the need to trim the retainer plate?  The Bosch instructions were *&%^

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  • 4 weeks later...

 Changed out Georgia's diff stock this weekend.  The side gears & diff pins were starting to give out but the R&P looked good.  I was debating what to do with the axle but decided that with stock tires & no thoughts of towing dropping some parts into the OE D35 was an ok option.  Also the Yukon Gears kit uses redesigned side gears & diff pins for greater strength.

 

Yukon gear kit:

 

New side gears have greater support in the backface & a bigger radius at the root of the gear.  Diff pins (spiders) are about 0.015" thicker in overall height too:

0

 

 

New diff stock installed.  R&P look pretty good:

 

Diff pins were spalling out.  Georgia had a hitch when I got her so I wasn't surprised:


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 Put new ball joints in Georgia this weekend.  The OEM lower ball joints were scary (3/16" play :eek:).  Took her for a short test drive and she tracks a lot better.  Unfortunately there's still some popping in the front, though the scary (deep) pops seem to be gone.  I was thinking about grabbing the drag link & tie rod assy at the jy if I find a nice one.

 

 

 

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Scary looking ball joint :ack: .  I was originally worried that the upper pass ball joint wasn't 100% seated but, looking at the old ball joint, it appears part of it had a small gap on the top of the knuckle too (0.005" on one side, flush on the other).  Must be machining variance in the axle.

 

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Update on Georgia's popping in the front end.  I'm hesitant to say I completely fixed it but she hasn't made any popping/clunking noises in 24 hrs :banana:

  I found 3 different issues:

 

1.  Tie rod boot on driver's side was broken and the grease was gone.  The TRE casting would periodically hit the steering knuckle.  New polyurethane boots (and a thorough flushing of the joint with grease) took care of that. (more clunking than pop but quite loud)

 

2.  Scary looking ball joints. (popping on expansion joints, uneven driveways, etc)

 

3.  Defective track bar :doh: .  That was one of the first things I changed but the bushing was C*&^.   (popping on turns, start/stop)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hit the jy this past weekend and found a few things for Georgia.  Her old wiper transmission was shot (replaced the bushings, wipers still slapped the cowl) so I picked up a nice tight one from a 2000XJ.  Put new bushings in it and dropped it in:

 

 

 Also grabbed an accelerator cable (throttle sticking shut), gray console lid, & a few other odds and ends.  Also happy to report that the popping is still gone :banana:

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  • 3 weeks later...

Have to pick up a few appliances this weekend and noted that, with the OE bedliner, there are no provisions to reach the cargo tie downs.  After some measurements, partial bedliner removal, and some drilling with a 1/2" bit I now have access to the tie downs :D

 

 

 

  In case anyone is wondering, the tie down hooks are level with the 5th molded rib in the OE bedliner.  Also, surprisingly, the front tie downs are about 3" back from the front corner of the bedliner

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hit the jy this weekend and found a few interesting things.  Saw this '89 4X4 in the parking lot at the U-Pull-it and spent a few minutes talking with the guy. 

 

 

 

Went to the 2nd U-Pull-It (only 20 min drive from the first one) and found an XJ Waggy with a nice front clip.  It was too nice to leave behind...this one is going to OneOverZero for his MJ.

 

 

Pulled the woodgrain dash trim from the Waggy for Georgia and put it in tonight:

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Georgia is the first MJ I've owned with decent paint so it only seemed right to give her a wash & wax.  This is the first time I've ever waxed an MJ and I'm on #3.  Other than the white road paint (from the PO) I'm pretty happy with how she turned out.  Some glamor shots:

 

 

 

 

 

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 I tried household paint thinner, lacquer thinner, Sherwin Williams "Shur Will Clean" paint prep, and kerosene.  Nothing touched it.  The only thing that seems to work is the passage of time...ever so slowly it seems to get brittle and crack/come off.  At the current rate it will take about 50 yrs for it to all come off :doh:

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  • 1 month later...

Fixed 2 of my 3 interior squeaks/rattles.  Picked up another glove compartment latch at the jy which cured the squeaky glove box door.  Also grabbed the 2 plastic spacers and metal receiver for the horn button which fixed the rattling center.  Still trying to figure out what the center console lid needs to stop squeaking...

 

  Georgia has been pulling her weight around the house.  Had to pull the trans out of the car to get it rebuilt and she's been hauling parts for me. 

 

 

Pulling a RWD trans is soooo much easier than FWD.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Santa brought Georgia a USA made clutch master cylinder to replace leaking Chinese clutch master #2.  I can now change Georgia's clutch master cyl in 45 mins though I'm trying to get out of this particular business. I sent the Chinese one back to the mainland via Auto Zone with my regards:

 

 

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Thanks!  I picked her up from a guy in Snellville, GA and could see Stone Mountain in the rear view mirror as I was trailering her home.  I like the subtle, OE look as well.  Though the build sheet doesn't reflect all the options on the truck she could have been ordered the way she's sitting now... 

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