Jump to content
Alexia

5.5" $600 Mj Lift - Cheap, High Quality, 100% Complete Lift [Please Read Note]

Recommended Posts

The factory mounts on the spring plates when SUA actually place the lower loop of the shocks a few inches below the axle tube IIRC.

Yes, but imagine my axle is still SUA. Now place the stock shock mounting plate under the leaf spring where it's supposed to be, and that is roughly where my new shock mount is is placed. See what I'm saying? The diameter of the axle tube is larger than the stock d35, so it's probably a quarter inch lower at most, but still would retain stock length shocks with decent articulation. Your thoughts? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you can get stock length shocks to fit with the current setup then it'd be fine for the road, however I don't think you'll get much articulation out of them. Mine's still SUA and when I was recently just under it putting in the 2" drop shackles in the rear I disconnected the shocks to let the axle droop further and they would only extend just a few inches past the axle/ubolt mounting point. While you may have some up travel available in them the down travel is what would limit you as the shocks would bottom out before the axle drooping all the way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mopar Sells Spring Perches cheap P4120074 so I would check with your local Dealer on the US pricing

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They would be fine for SUA but the longer ones not only combat spring wrap but the good ones allow you to adjust the axle location when going SOA

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

About the Rubicon Express control arm drop brackets, I've been told they require some modification to actually fit on an XJ/MJ, and to just go with the rough country brackets (over $200). I doubt he was bull$#!&tin me, but I'd like to make sure before dropping the extra cash on those rough country ones. With the amount of research that went into this list, I'm sure you'd know better than he would on those specific brackets.

The RE9900 drop brackets fit fine. The RE9905 bracket braces technically do not fit, but can be made to fit. An extra hole needs to be drilled for the forward cross member bolt position and some minor trimming around the Comanche's extra LCA bracing may be required. I have held it up to my Comanche's frame and noted those minor differences they would prevent it from fitting. I have not yet done those modifications to install them or completely test fit them.

 

I bought a set, I'm sending them back.

It will be easier to make braces from scratch than to try and make these fit.

With the angle of the MJ LCA bracket the tail end of the brace would end up in a very awkward to deal with place. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good to see this - it's great timing.

 

Thinking about spring under instead of over.  What else would need to be changed?

 

I have been working with a shop to rebuild/upgrade front and rear axles (D60 rear / D44 front) and lift my long bed MJ so 33s or maybe 35s would fit underneath it.  I am not a hard core wheeler by any stretch, but I do want something that can haul some weight on some nasty funky fire roads.  He's recommending a bunch of parts out of the Clayton Manufacturing 6.6" lift kit, and with springs it's $2700!  no way I can go that much.

 

i don't have any place to do this work myself but I'm looking really hard.

 

I am open to ideas, criticisms and suggestions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you're having axles built go with the front end parts in this lift setup, then order a set of hell creek metric ton leaf springs. Have the shop weld on spring perches for SOA and that will get you the suspension strength in the back for hauling stuff and the height you need.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just pieced this kit together I went with Rustys off road shocks, yes I said it Rustys! I couldn't afford and am not to concerned with ride quality! I also found 2.75x9 1/2 inch U bolts from rubicon express on Amazon! But here's a picture Of the kit I'm outing it on this weekend! Thanks so much Alex!y4emu6aj.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nothing wrong with Rusty's IMHO.  Those shocks are most likely just like everyone else's  white-bodied shock and are made by Tenneco who also makes  Rancho.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Nothing wrong with Rusty's IMHO. Those shocks are most likely just like everyone else's white-bodied shock and are made by Tenneco who also makes Rancho.
I just always hear people down talking rustys, rough country, ect... And didn't want to hear any complaining!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Lets see an overall shot! And what did you do about drive shaft lengths?
gybaby3a.jpg I have a longbed so the driveshaft was long enough! These are 28 inch tires I plan to upgrade to 33!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Nothing wrong with Rusty's IMHO. Those shocks are most likely just like everyone else's white-bodied shock and are made by Tenneco who also makes Rancho.

I just always hear people down talking rustys, rough country, ect... And didn't want to hear any complaining!

 

I put the plain jane rustys on the little beast, ride is decent.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Lets see an overall shot! And what did you do about drive shaft lengths?

gybaby3a.jpg I have a longbed so the driveshaft was long enough! These are 28 inch tires I plan to upgrade to 33!

 

 

 

Looks like you need to pick the front end up a good 2" or so, that is unless you like the the forward rake look.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Lets see an overall shot! And what did you do about drive shaft lengths?
gybaby3a.jpg I have a longbed so the driveshaft was long enough! These are 28 inch tires I plan to upgrade to 33!

 

 

Looks like you need to pick the front end up a good 2" or so, that is unless you like the the forward rake look.

spacers are on their way here do you know of a easy way to put them in?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do one side at a time. Disconnect the shock. Jack up the body on that side to allow droop. The proper way is to use a coil spring compressor but just do it however you removed the stock spring when you did the lift. You may be able to compress the spring enough to slide the spacer on top and then re-install it all. If not remove the spring & put the spacer on top. Re-install. Check and see if the shocks are still long enough or if they need replaced/limited. Check alignment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What are your experiences with that iron rock double shear track bar? http://ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-STBCK&Category_Code=PFX

 

I need a new track bar to replace my other new track bar that's crap, and it can get a bit overwhelming with all the options. Price isn't really a problem, it just needs to fit tight and strong. I'm sick and tired of my current track bar shifting when I turn steeply, or hit the trails. The bolts are tightened down so much I'll need to cut em to get em back off, I swear. I've heard mixed reviews about this bar, saying the holes aren't properly matched to the bolt size. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I actually went with the double sheer Rubicon Express track bar and bracket in the end. Looks beefy and was easy to install.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I actually went with the double sheer Rubicon Express track bar and bracket in the end. Looks beefy and was easy to install.

 

What means "double sheer" pertaining to a track bar?   :hmm:    I'm using the Teraflex bar because you can adjust it like a drag link w/o removing an end .

 

file_12_14.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What are your experiences with that iron rock double shear track bar? http://ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-STBCK&Category_Code=PFX

 

I need a new track bar to replace my other new track bar that's crap, and it can get a bit overwhelming with all the options. Price isn't really a problem, it just needs to fit tight and strong. I'm sick and tired of my current track bar shifting when I turn steeply, or hit the trails. The bolts are tightened down so much I'll need to cut em to get em back off, I swear. I've heard mixed reviews about this bar, saying the holes aren't properly matched to the bolt size.

Installed just fine for me and matched the hole size at the axle. However, if the mounting hole is wallowed out at the axle then it needs to be repaired.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

What are your experiences with that iron rock double shear track bar? http://ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-STBCK&Category_Code=PFX

 

I need a new track bar to replace my other new track bar that's crap, and it can get a bit overwhelming with all the options. Price isn't really a problem, it just needs to fit tight and strong. I'm sick and tired of my current track bar shifting when I turn steeply, or hit the trails. The bolts are tightened down so much I'll need to cut em to get em back off, I swear. I've heard mixed reviews about this bar, saying the holes aren't properly matched to the bolt size.

Installed just fine for me and matched the hole size at the axle. However, if the mounting hole is wallowed out at the axle then it needs to be repaired.

 

Nope, wasn't wallowed out, just the bolt that came with the bar I have now and the hole on the axle side of the bar are odd sizes. No matter how tight you get it, the track bar will still shift side to side, but the bolt stays stationary. So you do recommend this track bar with no issues?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...