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1991 4.0L daily driver/weekend wheeler build


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For some reason, I had it in my mind that your grill and headlight buckets were going to be body color. It would be awesome if you could get them in the same hyper black to match you wheels. Regular chrome would look good too I guess.

 

They really did an awesome job with your paint. It looks fantastic.

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I have been following this build from the beginning and just realized this is my first comment on it. Congratulations!!! This truck is beautiful. Well done sir. Very tasteful and super clean. Your paint job has sparked my motivation to get the Phoenix to the body shop asap. :cheers:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks guys.

 

I haven't posted in the last week or so. I do have the flares, rear bumper trim, tailgate door handles & front bumper all mounted up. I know it doesn't sound like a lot, but everything has fought me along the way, especially the front bumper install. I bought the heavy duty tie in brackets for the front bumper. Like most similar bumper mounting systems, it installs on the outboard side of the frame rail and utilizes the three steering box mounting bolts on the driver's side. Two of the three broke off in the box. I also had a weld nut break inside of the frame rail on the passenger's side. It was one of the two sway bar mounting bracket bolts that is also utilized for the tie in bracket. I spent pretty much all of yesterday afternoon just installing the front bumper and getting the wiring all squared away for the driving lights.

 

I removed the windshield. It was going to be replaced anyway, but I went ahead and took it out to make installing a replacement dash easier. The old dash is out, so now my interior pretty much consists of a driver's side seat, steering column and the wiring harness. I also managed to fix a water leak (I hope) the was coming in around my fuse panel. The wiper gutter was leaking along the front pinch seam and water was running down the front of firewall. The fuse panel seal was bad and water was coming in there. I sealed the leading edge of the gutter and removed and sealed the fuse panel to firewall. I dumped about a gallon of water in the gutter and no water found its way onto the wiring harness connection, so hopefully that is fixed. For good measure, I also replaced the rubber seal that goes at the back of the hood just in case water was finding its way in there.

 

I'll post pics later today.

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Hurry on the pics please :bowdown:

 

Okay...here we go. I also want to share a couple of non-MJ pics. 1st, my daughter posing with my XJ (she loves all of my Jeeps) and 2nd the Honcho (just because Honcho's are insanely cool).

 

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Here is the MJ as it looks as of tonight. I don't know what it is, but the color comes out a bit light in the pics. It is darker in person. It is not quite navy, but definitely darker than the pics. Maybe soon I'll be able to roll it out into the sunlight for pics. I have to remind myself "baby steps". I want to hurry and get it done, but that doesn't fit my family life. Hurrying this project and adding stress sucks all of the fun out of it, and fun is the only reason I am doing it...so it is what it is...baby steps...a little progress every day. Tonight, I got the wiper motor assembly reinstalled and the wiper grill in place. That's not exactly ground breaking, but i was home early for dinner and scored some points with the wife....surely they will be cashed in soon enough when I can't break away from a terribly important part of reassembly...

 

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WOOW looking mighty fine it,s ganna be one sweat ride

Well done to you :thumbsup:

Also have plans to fit my driveing lights into front bumper

But won't be doing the " knee capper thing "

image_209027.gif :drool: :thumbsup: :bowdown: :clapping: :popcorn: jamminz.gif

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Also have plans to fit my driveing lights into front bumper

But won't be doing the " knee capper thing "

 

Just curious...what is the "knee capper thing" ?

 

:rotf: That would be the recovery points that stick out about 4 inches on you dudes front & back bumpers

around knee cap hight

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:rotf: That would be the recovery points that stick out about 4 inches on you dudes front & back bumpers

around knee cap hight

 

Roger that, although mine would be more like upper thigh busters and I'm not exactly short. ;)

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Made some pretty good progress today.

 

The dash is installed as well as the cluster and all of the switches, dash lights, ac control unit, yadda yadda. It actually went pretty smooth.

 

I got the window trim on the diver's side...that was a bit of a pain, but it's on and I managed to do it without scratching anything. I have '97 up style exterior mirrors and had to trim the one I installed to get it to fit properly. I will do the passenger's side later. Right now, a new window regulator for the rh door has shipped and is on the way and the trim for that side will wait until after it arrives.

 

Lastly, I POR15'd the firewall below the fuse panel down to the floorboard. It had a fair amount of rust beginning at the base of the fuse box. The infected area made a wide delta shape flowing out from there. The floor pan itself has been repaired before and is in good shape, but the bottom portion of the firewall below the fuse panel looked kind of ugly.

 

Nothing really picture worthy today, but I am optimistic that it should be on the road in relatively short order. I have to go out of town for work this week or I would be shooting for this next weekend to get it wrapped up.

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Been following this thread for a while like Backdraft, but haven't commented until now.

 

First off, I have to say that that is one beautiful MJ. The color is absolutely gorgeous, and everything about it just makes me jealous. :yes: :drool: I'll have to go back and have a re-read through the thread to remember everything else I have to give you props for, but then my post would probably take up a whole page. :roll: ;)

 

Keep up the good work man!

 

 

Also, a Honcho with a Pignose AND a brow? For shame. :no: Just kidding, that is one sexy truck. :brows: :yes: What kind of Engine/Tranny combo you have in there?

 

EDIT:

Nevermind, don't know how I missed it on page 6 :doh: :fool:

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First off, I have to say that that is one beautiful MJ. The color is absolutely gorgeous, and everything about it just makes me jealous. :yes: :drool: I'll have to go back and have a re-read through the thread to remember everything else I have to give you props for, but then my post would probably take up a whole page. :roll: ;)

 

Keep up the good work man!

Thanks...I appreciate the compliment. BTW, the brow is about my favorite part of the Honcho. To me, it looks like it's ticked off and coming to kick your rear.

 

It's amazing just how helpful these types of forums are. Even though my build is moving at about half the pace of most of the guys on here, I'd probably still be scratching my head if I weren't able to draw on the experiences of the the people in this forum.

 

I got my new passenger's side window regulator yesterday and installed it last night. It actually went pretty smooth. I am starting to see a little light at the end of the tunnel. Part of me wants to throw it together and get it on the road, but I am trying to stay focused and do a nice job. It sill needs more poor man's Dynomat on the inside of the door skin as well as a few spots on the floor and to the rear of the lock pillar.

 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_154017-81326-PS625_0__?Ntt=peel+seal&productId=1018733&rpp=16

 

http://www.ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3226

 

It's funny, but if you read the reviews on the Lowe's site, almost everyone who is buying this stuff, or at least reviewing it, is using it for automobile sound insulation...not roofing.

 

I can't remember if I first read about Peel & Seal here or on the Cherokee Forum, but it works well and is relatively cheap. It takes about 4 rolls in the cab to do it all...floors, doors, rear bulkhead, firewall & overhead. I drove the truck for a while with the floor covered & zero interior except for the dash and a driver's seat. It was amazing how much quieter it was than before it was on the floor. Hopefully, with the carpet and all of the rest of the interior in place, my tunes will be nice and clear.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Great work man, on the MJ and the Honcho. :thumbsup:

 

Thanks.

 

Last week I got the carpeting, center console (out of a '96 XJ), driver's seat, headliner & a lot of the interior trim installed. I held off on a few pieces because I was waiting on a new stereo, speakers and amp to arrive.

 

I do have one question for those of you with bucket seats. My truck was originally a bench and I assume it was that reason that it didn't have a trim panel behind the seat. Either that or it was just plain missing. Regardless, it looks like I will have to make one as MJ's are scarce at junkyards around here. I plan to use expanded pvc board to make a piece and cover it with carpet to match the floor. I saw on another thread that there were brackets at the bottom that attached it to the floor, but how is the original made on either end where it meets the rear cab corner interior pieces? I assume at the top it simply tucks under the lower rear window trim, but the sides have me a bit perplexed.

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If I remember correctly, there are a couple metal tabs that slot in behind the plastic to hold the panel in place. I didn't have one either, so when I grabbed one at the junk yard I wasn't sure what to do with the bottom brackets. I don't believe I attached them to the floor; I think I just tucked them under the carpet. You are correct about the plastic top panel covering the top.

 

At one point I had an extra rear panel. I may still have it. It was maroon and I was going to recover it, but I found another gray one at the junk yard. If you're interested, I can check next time I'm home.

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Ryan is right. The OEM is a hardboard material with carpet glued to it. On the sides are a thin sheet metal tabs that are riveted to the board. If you look at your B pillar trim, you will see notches that correspond to these tabs. Same with 2 tabs on the bottom of the board, one on each side.

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If I remember correctly, there are a couple metal tabs that slot in behind the plastic to hold the panel in place. I didn't have one either, so when I grabbed one at the junk yard I wasn't sure what to do with the bottom brackets. I don't believe I attached them to the floor; I think I just tucked them under the carpet. You are correct about the plastic top panel covering the top.

 

At one point I had an extra rear panel. I may still have it. It was maroon and I was going to recover it, but I found another gray one at the junk yard. If you're interested, I can check next time I'm home.

 

Thanks Ryan. I'd bet I could make one for what it would cost to get it here. I'll try to find some thin hardboard and pick up an extra yard of the carpet I used for the floor. Also, I noticed that my local Pull-A-Part has gotten a Comanche since I've been there last...maybe I'll get lucky.

 

Ryan is right. The OEM is a hardboard material with carpet glued to it. On the sides are a thin sheet metal tabs that are riveted to the board. If you look at your B pillar trim, you will see notches that correspond to these tabs. Same with 2 tabs on the bottom of the board, one on each side.

 

Just looking at the b-pillars I wasn't sure how the ends of the factory panel would have been made, but that makes sense.

 

Once it is all together, are the metal tabs on the end of the carpeted panel visible?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just about have all of my interior installed. The glass company is supposed to install my new windshield and rear slider either tomorrow or Monday...so I am just about on the road.

 

Here's a few pics...

 

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I mounted Polk 4x6 plate speakers in the stock rear location and Polk 5.25" components in the front doors with the tweeters flush mounted in the door handle trim moldings. The 4x6's are powered off the Alpine head unit and the components are powered by a 2x90 watt Alpine amp. They play loud and clean with very tight and punchy mid-bass, but provide very little low-bass. For a little extra depth, I am installing a self powered 8" Kicker sub that fits perfectly behind the passenger's seat. I know it won't hit crazy hard, but I'm ok with that. The music I listen to ranges from southern and classic rock to metal to adult contemporary and jazz...heck I even like some classical and folk music, but there isn't a single rap or hip hop song on my Ipod. I've used a Blaupunkt 8" self powered sub before. It sounded pretty decent and it was only 70 watts. The Kicker sub is 150 watts rms and is advertised to play all the way down to 25 hertz...we'll see how it does.

 

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I had to make a rear bulkhead panel and am happy with how it turned out. It's made from 1/8" marker board and covered with an extra yard of carpet that I ordered from the company who made my carpet set. The carpet is actually a Ford color of all things. I wanted 80/20 loop carpet (it tends to be more durable) and the Ford color matched the charcoal pretty well that was used to dye the rest of the interior. The carpet is made by ACC. They will make carpet for your Comanche out of any carpet color they have for any other vehicle, but you have to approve samples first and it is a no cancel - no return deal, of course.

 

I used spray dye on all of the interior parts. The dash is a junkyard piece out of a 1996 Cherokee that I used to replace my old cracked dash. The headliner and the center console are also from the junkyard. The seats and seat belts are new, but the rest of the interior is original. All of the pieces with exception to the seats and belts were dyed using a 1982 Corvette charcoal color.

 

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