AMCJeepMJ Posted August 1, 2011 Posted August 1, 2011 Due to lack of air tools, I'm removing both leaf springs and D35 in one piece by hand. I am finding that the 21mm bolts that hold in the leaf springs are nearly impossible to get loose, and when I do manage to get one loose, it takes a breaker bar [18" section of 1" diameter pipe] on a 1/2" ratchet just to turn the nut on the bolt! I have used PB Blaster on one bolt and then WD40 on the next, and they are still way tough to remove even after soaking for several hours and tapping it with a hammer to 'convince' them to loosen up. I'm sore from doing just the two rear bolts! :grrrr: Any suggestions to ease the removal of the two remaining bolts?
cody4359 Posted August 1, 2011 Posted August 1, 2011 pb blaster is junk in my opnion. i like aerokroil, we just call it kroil. grainger sells it up here but i don't know if there are any near you. to work best you want to give it a good spay a few times a day for 2 days. but just a few hrs soaking will help. working the bolt back and forth alot helps break up the rust inside, and if your not afraid of melting the rubber bushing on the leaf you can use a little propane torch to get the nut fairly warm, then rub a candle around the threads. the heat sucks the wax in like when you flux/sodder copper tubing.
87Warrior Posted August 1, 2011 Posted August 1, 2011 Yes, they are that tough. If you do not have an impact wrench you will need cheater bars. If you can, borrow a compressor and buy the CH impact wrench from walmart. Trust me. It will make your life much easier!
Blue88Comanche Posted August 1, 2011 Posted August 1, 2011 Yes, they are that tough. If you do not have an impact wrench you will need cheater bars. If you can, borrow a compressor and buy the CH impact wrench from walmart. Trust me. It will make your life much easier! :agree: my cheater bar was a 5 foot chain link fence post the impact wrench was very nice with any luck you won't have mine... on page three is where i did my leaf swap viewtopic.php?f=7&t=29859&start=30
Incommando Posted August 1, 2011 Posted August 1, 2011 I end up using the hollow handle from my large floor jack as a cheater bar. If all else fails you can usually get a sawzall blade between the shackle and the bushing.
AMCJeepMJ Posted August 1, 2011 Author Posted August 1, 2011 I don't want to sawzall the bolt [even though I'm tempted]. PB Blaster is apparently good for nothing apart from stinking up the garage and melting styrofoam. Looks like I better buy stock in Elbow Grease to finish the job. Once I get these little jerks out, what's the recommmended torque to put them back in when it comes time to put leaf packs back on?
mvusse Posted August 1, 2011 Posted August 1, 2011 They are not supposed to be THAT hard, but 25 years of rust will make it so.
Pete M Posted August 1, 2011 Posted August 1, 2011 I wouldn't even try to reuse them. they are the same bolt as the lower control arm bolts on the front. I've found those to be in better shape at the junkyard than the ones in the leaf springs.
Pete M Posted August 1, 2011 Posted August 1, 2011 also, be prepared for the possibility that the bolt has rust-fused itself to the steel bushing in the rubber bushing.
Blue88Comanche Posted August 1, 2011 Posted August 1, 2011 I got lucky with mine... they where rust free and just had a build up of dirt and clay on the threads making it a pain to remove
AMCJeepMJ Posted August 1, 2011 Author Posted August 1, 2011 also, be prepared for the possibility that the bolt has rust-fused itself to the steel bushing in the rubber bushing. Haven't had that problem yet with them rusting to the bushing... fortunately and knock on wood. I have a replacement set to use; I don't intend to reuse the crusty ones.
kyleag89 Posted August 1, 2011 Posted August 1, 2011 If you already have the replacement bolts then why don't you save yourself the time and just cut them out??
mjtjnj Posted August 1, 2011 Posted August 1, 2011 Agree with Kyle, get out the angle grinder. They're probably rust-frozen into the metal bushing.
flint54 Posted August 2, 2011 Posted August 2, 2011 Sawzall can be your best friend for this job. You've probably burnt up more in spent time that the value of a couple blades and a couple new bolts. Mine were frozen solid to the bushings. Whoever takes these out again some generations from now will thank me for greasing the new bolts liberally.
COMJNUT Posted August 2, 2011 Posted August 2, 2011 yes they are hell to get off, even after just ten years after install. Here is what I had to go through: http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthread.php?t=180559 my bolts were seized to the bushings, the nuts came off with a cheater and breaker bar combo. then they had to be cut out to get them off. :wall:
87Warrior Posted August 2, 2011 Posted August 2, 2011 This is why I will use Anti-Seize on every bolt when I put the 92 back together!
AMCJeepMJ Posted August 2, 2011 Author Posted August 2, 2011 I will make another attempt with the breaker bar after a few good whacks with a hammer on the remaining two that have been soaking for a few days. Should I get frustrated, the Sawzall will come out and at that point all bets are off.
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