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Long arms??


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I have been toying with the idea of upgrading to long arm front in my MJ. Currently i have a full rustys offroad 4.5in lift with 1.75in spacers in the front. I'm only running the aftermarket lowers an stock uppers. What is the better kit to get? For now i been running moastly all Rustys off road. But the rustys upgrade is close to $800 an compaired to the $660 Rough country kit don't look like you get your coins worth... The RC kit includes a t case skid an crossmember looks stronger... any ideas?

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Read the install thread of the rc longarms on naxja.... The tranny bolts hang down and are unprotected and it gives you a 1" tcase drop. For the extra ~2-300 dollars I'd get claytons or TNTs upgrade.... I've personally taken off and installed a TNT setup it's pretty beefy and that skidplate-crossmember is a sweet setup but to do any tranny-tcase maintenance you have to take the whole thing off as one piece which is somewhat of a pain lining back up... Which is why I'm getting claytons when I cough up the mula

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Personally, there are only three kits I would look at:

 

1) budget. Iron Rock Offroad. $600, and pretty solid. I hear good things about it.

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant ... y_Code=PFX

120908%2011.JPG

 

2) Knock the daylights out if it tough. TNT Customs. $980

http://www.tntcustoms.com/Jeep_Cherokee ... grade.aspx

DSC00527.JPG

tnt-tt-1210-1.jpg

 

3) Custom. Poly Performance. 3-link (weld on) is $940, 4-link (bolt on) is $1120

http://polyperformance.com/shop/Synergy ... -1311.html

PPM-XJ-4-LINK-KIT-BASE-400.jpg

vs RE arms

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Even better then a kit, what all does it take to make a "long arm" kit?

 

Brandon

 

Links, ends, and mounting points.

 

Poly sells just the brackets if you want to burn/bend your own links.

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rough county don't have a kit for a MJ, A xj kit will not work The skid plat sits closer and the Long arm need to be shorter

 

The skid will only sit closer on vehicles with pugeot transmissions. Any 87+ auto or 89+ manual should be the same as XJs.

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I shuldent have too much trouble with the rough country. My 88 MJ has a compleat drive train out of my old 90 MJ. Reinx 4.0, AX15, and the NP231. I looked at the Claton but seems pricy for not having any skids. I do know the claton works good my freind just picked up a 95 XJ with a full Claton front an rear long arm. But that full suspention is over $2500!

 

58583_102009463196751_100001630926627_13715_4232150_n.jpg

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I shuldent have too much trouble with the rough country. My 88 MJ has a compleat drive train out of my old 90 MJ. Reinx 4.0, AX15, and the NP231. I looked at the Claton but seems pricy for not having any skids. I do know the claton works good my freind just picked up a 95 XJ with a full Claton front an rear long arm. But that full suspention is over $2500!

 

58583_102009463196751_100001630926627_13715_4232150_n.jpg

:drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:

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This jeep is the reason why i want long arms! I'm still pissed he got it turn key just like it is in the pic with bald 33s for much less than that full Claton kit cost. Evean has locked 44s front and rear, 4.0HO an AW4 auto.... :bowdown:

 

72568_109623902435307_100001630926627_75783_1864092_n.jpg

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Even better then a kit, what all does it take to make a "long arm" kit?

 

Brandon

 

All matters which setup you want but pretty much what mkbruin said. I built my 3-link long arm kit (you can see it in my build thread) but 3-links need all hard joints. There's a bunch of geometry in the control arms that you will need to figure out in order for the suspension to function as desired. If you're a novice at fabricating and welding, I would steer clear of building your own.

 

If I didn't build my own, I was looking at purchasing either the RockKrawler 3-link kit or the TnT Customs kit.

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  • 13 years later...

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