spence Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 Okay. So I got sick of trying to find a rollpan and airdam for my street (2WD) Eliminator. Being in the custom boat business, the most logical thing to do was build my own. So I did. Made them out of foam core, 18oz. biaxial cloth and West System epoxy. Very labor intensive, but it allows you to get exactly what you want. And STRONG! Now, I couldn't build them like THIS at any kind of reasonable price, but what I'm considering doing is popping a mold off of these if there's any interest (actually, I was thinking of doing it anyway, just in case I crunch one. I don't want to do it the hard way again!). So, I guess I'm asking if anyone out there that would be interested? The molded versions would be gelcoated mat and biaxial polyester resin construction (epoxy's too dagone expensive). The color would be white. Rollpan would probably be in the $100 neighborhood and the airdam about $125 ($150 w/ aluminum brackets and stainless hardware). There will probably be some trimming and fitting involved, as Comanches and Cherokees are only CLOSE in fit due to twenty-some years of being tweeked and knocked around. The airdam will fit XJ's. I'd like to post some pics, but I'm a 57 year old computer illiterate without a clue. I read Taz's how-to on a thread and thought "Wha?"! So, your 2 cents? Thanx!
Automan2164 Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 I'd be interested in a roll pan, but would have to see one. You have an email you can send pics to me with? I'll post them for you... Rob L.
spence Posted March 3, 2011 Author Posted March 3, 2011 Yeah, Rob. nameless4@msn.com will put you in touch. I just took the pics this morning, before I started putting the surfacer on them. Spence
veritas4156 Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 When you're done post pics on here. I was actually just taking measurements earlier today to make a roll pan. Odd how that happens at the same time.
mnkyboy Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 I made a rolled pan for mine,looks pretty good on the MJ.
Pete M Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 pictures posting is easy once you get the hang of it. :D keep trying. :thumbsup: in the meantime, if you email them to me, I'll host them for you. :cheers: comancheclub@hotmail.com
SubSonic Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 Yea, I've had the bumper off a few times. (In my mind the damn thing can't ever be too straight, and it was slightly tweaked when I bought it.) Always thought a rollpan would look awesome, just hope you don't get hit.
veritas4156 Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 Yea, I've had the bumper off a few times. (In my mind the damn thing can't ever be too straight, and it was slightly tweaked when I bought it.) Always thought a rollpan would look awesome, just hope you don't get hit. The roll pan I've been drawing up will be pretty solid and tie into the frame. Hopefully. Still trying to work that part out.
SubSonic Posted March 3, 2011 Posted March 3, 2011 Yea, I've had the bumper off a few times. (In my mind the damn thing can't ever be too straight, and it was slightly tweaked when I bought it.) Always thought a rollpan would look awesome, just hope you don't get hit. The roll pan I've been drawing up will be pretty solid and tie into the frame. Hopefully. Still trying to work that part out. My point exactly. As opposed to having the crumple of a bumper (if properly designed), you now have direct impact to the frame. So a hard hit would cause more structural damage. Don't get me wrong, I love the look, and have always considered one... just always kept that thought in the back of my head. Correct me if you see it differently, however.
Automan2164 Posted March 5, 2011 Posted March 5, 2011 Got them this morning, finally got a chance to sit down here... Enjoy. Air dam really isn't my bag, but that roll pan is pretty sharp. I would want the plate centered though... Rob L. :dunno:
streetjeep2.5 Posted March 5, 2011 Posted March 5, 2011 Hey! What about a couple of slots to put some Nerf Bars on! :brows: Or, attach a couple of rubber bumpers.
cody4359 Posted March 5, 2011 Posted March 5, 2011 roll pan looks good but I'm my head steel would be better than fiber glass. the front needs a design where it elimantes the front bumper for a more flowing look, again just my opnion
Boilermaker Posted March 5, 2011 Posted March 5, 2011 that roll pan is pretty sharp. I would want the plate centered though... That is really nice work. i agree with automan tho...I'd also prefer to have the plate centered. I'd definitely be in line money in hand for a plate-centered roll pan. I don't know much about the process or if it is worth your time to do something you would wouldn't be using for yourself and just selling...but if you ever decided to do rear flares that matched the 97+ front flares there, i'd guess there would be lots of interest in that also.
streetjeep2.5 Posted March 5, 2011 Posted March 5, 2011 Did websearch for nerf bars, and what I used to know as nerf bars ain't no mo!!
spence Posted March 6, 2011 Author Posted March 6, 2011 The problem with the centered license plate inset is clearing the spare tire well. Now it would be possible to mold a centered positive flat for a plate. I had considered doing that, but I liked the lines of the insert. When I've finished the mold, I'll pop an airdam to make a modified plug. As for fiberglass vs. steel, fiberglass can take a pretty good tap without damage. Steel (sheet metal) dents and stays deformed (stretches). I'll be doing two oval nerfs, a longey for the long side and a shorty for the short side. I'm having them made from brushed finish anodized aluminum. In south Florida there are a lot of talented aluminum fab shops that make stuff for boats and trucks. Most use 6061-T6 alloy/heat treat, which acts a lot like light weight spring steel. Streetjeep2.5, nerfs (classic hotrod style) are either oval or "weak "S", right? I'll see if I can find a rear hit '97+ at the U-Pick for referrence. I included the bumper in my design to maintain the handsome, classic Squareokee/Comanche look. Even the Street Comanches kept these lines in their airdams. Thanx, Spence
JeepcoMJ Posted March 6, 2011 Posted March 6, 2011 The problem with the centered license plate inset is clearing the spare tire well. Now it would be possible to mold a centered positive flat for a plate. I had considered doing that, but I liked the lines of the insert. When I've finished the mold, I'll pop an airdam to make a modified plug. As for fiberglass vs. steel, fiberglass can take a pretty good tap without damage. Steel (sheet metal) dents and stays deformed (stretches). I'll be doing two oval nerfs, a longey for the long side and a shorty for the short side. I'm having them made from brushed finish anodized aluminum. In south Florida there are a lot of talented aluminum fab shops that make stuff for boats and trucks. Most use 6061-T6 alloy/heat treat, which acts a lot like light weight spring steel. Streetjeep2.5, nerfs (classic hotrod style) are either oval or "weak "S", right? I'll see if I can find a rear hit '97+ at the U-Pick for referrence. I included the bumper in my design to maintain the handsome, classic Squareokee/Comanche look. Even the Street Comanches kept these lines in their airdams. Thanx, Spence the roll pan would look better with a positive flat, for one...for two... i work on semi trucks. fiberglass doesn't hold up to much of anything when it comes to collisions. and what do you mean "long side" and "short side" do you mean long bed and short bed? there is no side which is longer than the other, the only difference would be long bed and short bed...and that's only if you're going all the way from the front wheel well to the rear wheel well.
spence Posted March 9, 2011 Author Posted March 9, 2011 Hey, Jeepco. I guess, when you're talking about a truck collision, nothing much holds up! Most of the "fiberglass" stuff that's out there for cars and trucks is either thin chopper gun stuff or the Detroit version of fiber reinforced plastic (once again, thin). It's made this way to save weight and money (petroleum products are getting expensive, ie: that 55 gallon drum of polyester resin that was $400.00, is now over $1,000.00). I'm referring to normal, low speed "bumping" into things, where metal would bend and stay bent. It's kind of a moot point anyway as if, say, you backed into a tree with a rollpan equipped vehicle, the rollpan might flex and be okay, but the beauty of the undamaged rollpan would certainly be diminished by the crunched tailgate and bed floor! Anyway, a positive flat wouldn't be too hard to do, so I'll see if I can work one up. Stay tuned. Thanx, Spence P.S. By "long side" and "short side", I was referring to the offset license plate insert on the rollpan I made. The driver's side would be the long side, and the passenger side would be the short. S
beaterjeep Posted March 16, 2011 Posted March 16, 2011 My attention has been piqued. Loving both, especially the air dam. :yes: If they can be done as Jeepco suggested, with a positive centered flat for the license plate, that would be about perfect!
dakal Posted March 17, 2011 Posted March 17, 2011 your stuff looks good spence. nice fiberglassing. dave
maddzz1 Posted March 17, 2011 Posted March 17, 2011 I like the off-centered plate. That rollpan looks nice.
earl*t Posted March 21, 2011 Posted March 21, 2011 Thanks Rob. Just applied two coats of primer this evening.
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