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Horn mystery


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Background : replaced signal & wiper switches a while back . In the process of re-assembly I bent the lock-ring plate (had wrong side up & compressed too much with lock ring tool ) :dunce: 1/2 @$$ straightened it out . The horn ceased functioning at that point. I recently bought a new lock-ring plate , signal canceling cam (part of horn circuit), horn contact spring and new C-clips . ........ :typing: Yesterday, carefully dis-assembled wheel & removed the inards , inspecting for damage , contacts ,as I proceeded . Re-assembled . Tried the horn....nothing :( ,tried turning the wheel lock to lock while tapping on the horn button . Now here's the Mystery...The horn works only near full lock left or right :huh???: Any ideas where I screwed up this time ? :dunno:

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Ya it's a sour dill at that :( Seems I'll be tearing into it one more time (too many ) I'm wondering if I forgot the thrust washer or who knows what ? I'll definitely be checking out the wire harness for pinches this time as you suggested. The wierd part is why the horn works at near full lock , but now where else in the wheel rotation :wall: If all else fails I could direct wire a secondary horn button but I really hate bandaid fixes :ack:

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I'm guessing you may have put the horn spring plate in upside down. It may have gotten flattened out when you put the lock plate in upside down. I stole this picture from someone. It's from a Chevy Nova but it's the metal spring in the center. If it got flattened out it could cause your problem. They sell the spring plate at NAPA. When you push your horn button the spring compresses and touches the steering column and supplies the ground for the horn. You can test it by touching a screw driver to it and the steering column. If the horn works it's probably a bad spring.

 

 

 

You didn't say what steering wheel you have. This is for a Sport wheel.

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Are you sure your horn worked before this rework. I had a similar problem with my horn and found that I had no ground continuity up the rotating column. The entire rotating part of the steering column was isolated, no ground. I used small ground jumper wires over the column U-Joints and now my horn works! I think I found this fix on the forum somewhere. I have a picture of my rework I can post later tonight.

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Easy fix.

 

Just swerve before you honk and wave. :clapping: :D

:clapping: :clapping: :clapping: Here in B.C. I could just display a " L " plate (new driver) and most people usually get the heck out of the way . :thumbsup:

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Are you sure your horn worked before this rework. I had a similar problem with my horn and found that I had no ground continuity up the rotating column. The entire rotating part of the steering column was isolated, no ground. I used small ground jumper wires over the column U-Joints and now my horn works! I think I found this fix on the forum somewhere. I have a picture of my rework I can post later tonight.

Yes the horn did work before , I think /thought the circuit closed the ground wire to the relay to actuate the horn . I'll search out the column ground you referred to ( chime in anybody who knows of it )... :shake:

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diagram shows "horn brush ring" which jeep calls a signal cancelling cam ( I re-placed that along with the new lock plate ) also the horn switch in the steering wheel is not bent and circuit test confirms its working . Full tear-down seem be my future :wall:

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You could always install a big truckers air horn. My friend has a small air horn on his bike (not a motorbike} that has a 2 litre pop bottle to hold compressed air. It is loud! :cheers:

I got one of those aerosol game horns laying on the seat (w/ear plugs ) as a back-up :banana:

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