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1992 Comanche Build


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Several months ago. I was lucky enough to find a 1992 Comanche Short Bed, with a 4.0L, AX15, NP231, a couple of dents, and no rust. Unfortunatly, I didn't take any pictures of it in stock form. At the time I was wanting to build the Jeep on a small budget... however my priorities have since shifted a bit.

 

I'm currently about 1 month into the build up (with the help of a friend that has a local fabrication shop), and I'm begining to see the light of completion.

 

The end result of our time spent fabricating and wrenching will be the following:

-Jeep Cherokee Vinyl Bucket Seats

-Jeep J10 Dana 44 Front (has 3" tubes), with Ford Knuckles and Brakes, a Lock Rite, Chromolly Shafts, CTM's and 5.13's

-Ford Explorer 8.8 Rear, with disk brakes, a Detroit Locker, alloy shafts, and 5.10's

-TNT Customs Long Arms and Transfer Case Skid Plate(heavily modified)

-Bilstein 5125 14" Travel Shocks

-~6" of Lift

-NP231 (Box4Rocks) coupled to a NP241OR (Rubicon Transfer Case); which allows for use of the NP231 low range or the NP241OR low range or both combined

-Custom Built Gas Tank utilizing the factory fuel equiptment

-Custom Tube Bed (w/ skins), Steering, Rock Sliders, Cage, Front and Rear Bumpers/Crossmembers and Rear Traction Bar

-38x12.5r15 Bias Ply Super Swamper TSL's

 

Beyond this list, I'm building in mounts for a front and rear winch. I'm also considering selling the Ford 8.8 in favor of a Dana 70.

 

All gearing considered, my final maximum crawl ratio should be about 213:1 (using both transfer cases which amounts to 10.88:1 low range).

Wheel Base is currently 116", I think I will shorten up the front to make it 115" before all is said and done.

 

Anyway, here are some of the pictures thus far; there will be more to come after this weekend.

 

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-Andrew

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Is that 2x6? do you think there's room for 2x5 for a more flush fit? I'm going to be doing that soon, any tips or better pics?

Yes, it is 2x6, 3/16" wall. I've got a friend that runs 2x4, it certainly provides a more flush fit. I went with the 2x6 for my cage mainly (the cage is all based off of the rockers), it also seems like it will protect the doors a bit better.

I have not got any better pictures of the rockers right now, but I will take some for you on Saturday (should have them posted by Saturday night). I'll raise the lift to try to get some good points of reference for you.

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Care if I steal some of your ideas? jamminz.gif

Steal away man.

 

I'm thinking the front crossmember/bumper and rear bumper/tailgate will make or break the overall image of the truck.

This weekend's prioirty will be to get the transfer cases squared away so that we can build a front drive shaft and order a rear one. Perhapse we'll have time to mess with one bumper or the other aswell. Or start on the front part of the cage.

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Here are some pictures of the rocker panel replacements as requested...

comanche048pe4.jpg

 

comanche049us7.jpg

 

comanche050av0.jpg

 

comanche051jv6.jpg

 

comanche052dt9.jpg

 

Disaster stuck this weekend. My passengerside rear speaker caught fire due to a spark from the plasma cutter. As far as we can tell, nothing other than the speaker itself and the plastic trim piece was damaged. It would seem the Jeep will need hosed out before it ever sees a trail after its encounter with the fire extinguisher.

 

comanche062me4.jpg

 

comanche061kc2.jpg

 

Aside from that, a big hole was cut in the floor and the patched (forgot to take pictures) in order to fit the NP241OR behind the NP231 (a new seat mount was also built), the transfer cases were assembled into a unit, and I finished putting skings on the bed and building my intergrated tool boxes.

 

comanche055sc1.jpg

 

comanche056bb5.jpg

 

More pictures to come...

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brett

i used 2x4 when doing mine because that is what i had around

my rockers were destroyed, i hate NE, but the 2x4 sits nice and flush to the pinch seam on the bottom and sticks out 1/4" from the door on the top

 

 

andrew

you def need to ditch the 8.8, i don't see it lasting with 38s unless you just go to the mall, which i assume isnt true

also, if you want to shorten up your wheelbase i would try to do it from the rear and not the front, moving the front back with make your approach angle worse and give less clearence to the firewall for your tires

and lastly, i would suggest you get hydro assit, my stock box with no assist and 38s was horrid and i only drove it around on the street before realizing it wasnt going to work on the trail

 

def a sweet rig tho

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you def need to ditch the 8.8, i don't see it lasting with 38s unless you just go to the mall, which i assume isnt true

also, if you want to shorten up your wheelbase i would try to do it from the rear and not the front, moving the front back with make your approach angle worse and give less clearence to the firewall for your tires

and lastly, i would suggest you get hydro assit, my stock box with no assist and 38s was horrid and i only drove it around on the street before realizing it wasnt going to work on the trail

I agree with you completely on all counts. Trying to see what I can do financially about running another rear axle before I get a rear drive shaft built- I'd really like to run a dana 70, but I want to find a narrow one. The hydro assist was always in the plan, forgot to mention it though. The wheel base however, I think I will try first and see how I like it. If it ends up being a bad experiance for me, it'll get shortened in the future if I end up running a rear 4 link. ;)

 

Also, here are more pictures from the past weekend, as promised.

 

Transfer cases assembled (1330 yokes on both ends).

comanche057kf4.jpg

 

comanche058ja6.jpg

 

Mock up of my shovel mount. Matching axe mount will be on the other side.

comanche064ae6.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Additional Photo Request

 

I am also interested in a shot of the rocker panels looking down with the door open, and I would like to see one with the rocker horizontal, taken from under the tranny or t-case looking out at the old pinch weld and one that it straight from the rear wheel forward looking up, and from the front wheel looking back.

 

I am going to build rockers like those very soon for my XJ, but my problem is that I don't have EXO CAGE to attach them to. I am thinking about cutting out a portion of the tubing and placing braces in the cut open tubing to make it rigid. Then I am going to run at least 2 brace over to the frame that will be flat L shaped braces that will run flush with the floor, over to the frame and down along the frame. Then I will either bolt, or weld them to the frame. Probably bolt to avoid burning the primer off the inside of the frame rails and creating weak rusty spots.

 

Furthermore, I will be starting construction on a tub bed that will be a very good copy of what you did in the next few weeks.

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  • 3 weeks later...
what are you running in the rear for springs?

Those are stock springs in the rear, just put on top of the axle.

 

how do you do 2 transfer cases into one unit? that is crazy

I bought a kit called a "Box4Rocks" from a vendor on pirate4x4.com. It's basically an adaptor plate and a new shaft for a 'donor' transfer case. With a bit of cutting and welding on the donor case, you can then bolt another transfer case to the back of it. Transfer case linkage is something the kit does not address, and is also something I have yet to address myself.

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love the design of the whol thing it looks great. i was wondering if u could post some close up shots of plate conecting the exo to the pinchseem above the door , also any suggestions on stichin the plate in would be nice .thanks

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Is the cage in the front portion going to be endo or exo? I'm looking around for people with exos that are narrow. I'm the same width as you, and I've found the exo'd XJ guys get caught up on everything.

 

I figured mine isn't going to be doing the best job of saving the sheetmetal. But that's okay.

 

 

 

As far as your axle strength goes... I think the 8.8 will do alright; depending on what your final weight comes in at. That tube bed doesn't look the lighest (did you say what wall size it is?). I know of many 8.8s in relatively light jeeps running 37s and 38s that are successful. I think if you're going to be really worried about the 8.8 you should start worrying about the D44.

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You said you want a narrow rear axle. I don't remember if it's the dually or non-dually rear axle but whichever it is 14 bolts are around 64" out of one and 67" out of the other. Is 64" narrow enough? They are all 8 lug. Certainly beefy enough to take whatever tire you throw at it. You can shave them quite a bit too. Like my old one......

 

14bolt.jpg

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