Mudzilla

That's a work in progress; the jeep isn't done yet. ;)

The rear wasn't moving around too much. A lot of it is due to weight transfer, I think (most of the weight was on the down hill side). In any case, we have yet to really address the rear suspension. The overload springs may come out eventually, and we are definatly gonna build new rear spring hangers for the leaves as well as new longer shackles. Right now the rear suspension is bone stock, other than the springs sitting on top of the axle. ;)

I suppose I didn't get a pic of it. It dumps out at the end of the transfer case skid. No stacks for me- yet. I've been thinking about them too. I figured I could route one through one of my tool boxes, and convert it into a burrito warmer. ;)

The Comanche now has a complete custom exhaust, an engine skid that ties into the transfer case skid, some unibody skids behind the transfer case skid, and a rear cross member. We also test flexed the suspension on a 53" Michelin because we couldn't help ourselves. It still lacks shocks and needs its travel limited (both up and down). Our next project is crossover steering based on some flat top knuckles, because we aren't happy with the current track bar clearances. -Andrew

You end up needing 2 shifters; the stock one can work the front T-case though. For what its worth Ryan, on mine (with an NP241OR as the rear case, np321 as front), we found that the easiest way to shift the rear t-case was to have a lever that pulls vertically up and down, rather than one that slides forward and back (both for ease of fabrication and maintaining interior room). It works well with XJ buckets. ;) Sadly, we have finally buttoned up my giant transfer case skid for what should be the last time, and neglected to take some pictures of the linkage.

You'll be the fastest thing on the road up to 20 mph. :D I wouldn't worry about it, it'll just be a bit jumpy.

I'm gonna be frank here, we've built the Jeep to be functional and unique. I posted pictures thinking people would like to see something that was a bit different, and maybe even get a bit inspired by it- which is great if it does that. I appreciate the fact that you really like the design of the bed, but I honestly can't say I'm terribly interested in the idea an identical copy of it floating around somewhere; that really just takes the whole 'uniqueness' concept and throws it under the bus as far as I'm concerned. At the point you seem to basically be looking for an AutoCAD version of it, I'm feeling like my bed may not remain too unique for too long. If you really want to have something like it, that's cool- its your truck. The pictures posted show the basic body lines for your reference. ;) Thinking outside of the box isn't that tough to do, you just need to be willing to give it a go. Best of luck building your bed. :cheers:

Which would be pretty cool, but... my low ranges come out to 2.72:1 and 4.0:1, for a t-case based low range of 10.88:1 and a final crawl ratio of 214:1 (it would be a relatively quick 53:1 without the Rubicon Transfer case). :chillin:

The long awaited picture of the top of the rock sliders. And in response to other recent comments and questions... My front axle is out of a 1980-ish J10 and is 65" wide (WMS to WMS). It has ford knuckes and stub shafts in it from a 1974 ford bronco. My cage from the cab to the front bumper will be endo and tied into the front fenders, shock hoops, and bumper. All welding to the unibody thus far has been fully welded, rather than stitch welded. Its obviously more work, but we did this to distribute any loads that the sheet metal experiances as much as possible. I unfortunatly misread the question about the rain gutters, so I took a picture of the wrong thing. However, the plates attached to them are 1/8" thick and have holes drilled in them that have had a dimple dye pressed into them to give them a 3rd dimension, which significantly increases their rigidity. They are wleded directly to the rain gutters to attempt to stiffen up the cab (it used to pop and wrinkle its sheet metal when I wheeled the truck stock, without doors on it). Recent progress has been a bit slow. We decided to go ahead and replace my rear main seal as it was leaking, and discovered it was also time for a new clutch, so both of those were replaced. I also replaced my exhaust manifold (it was cracked), and my crank shaft's harmonic ballancer (it was rubbing the accessory bracket on the front of the engine). The truck has recieved several coats of paint to keep rust to a minimum for now (not completely reflected in pictures). We went ahead and made some lids for the storage boxes in the bed. I also welded down my expanded steel for the bed surface. I finished my axe and shovel mounts, and we mounted my high lift jack. We built a new front drive shaft and installed a rear driveshaft I had made by a local drive shaft shop. The brakes have been bled, as has the clutch, and the engine has been started breifly. We are still in the process of making a custom exhaust for the truck as well as a front bumper/winch mount. I can start to see the end of the tunnel, but we're still far from it. Here are a few pictures of some of the recent developments (and no, the chrome exhaust pipe in the bed in one of the pictures is not for my truck ;)).

Those are stock springs in the rear, just put on top of the axle. I bought a kit called a "Box4Rocks" from a vendor on pirate4x4.com. It's basically an adaptor plate and a new shaft for a 'donor' transfer case. With a bit of cutting and welding on the donor case, you can then bolt another transfer case to the back of it. Transfer case linkage is something the kit does not address, and is also something I have yet to address myself.

Found it on Google.

I agree with you completely on all counts. Trying to see what I can do financially about running another rear axle before I get a rear drive shaft built- I'd really like to run a dana 70, but I want to find a narrow one. The hydro assist was always in the plan, forgot to mention it though. The wheel base however, I think I will try first and see how I like it. If it ends up being a bad experiance for me, it'll get shortened in the future if I end up running a rear 4 link. ;) Also, here are more pictures from the past weekend, as promised. Transfer cases assembled (1330 yokes on both ends). Mock up of my shovel mount. Matching axe mount will be on the other side.

Unfortunatly, no, sorry about that. I will get some for you the next time I go to work on it. It'll be this weekend or the next.

Here are some pictures of the rocker panel replacements as requested... Disaster stuck this weekend. My passengerside rear speaker caught fire due to a spark from the plasma cutter. As far as we can tell, nothing other than the speaker itself and the plastic trim piece was damaged. It would seem the Jeep will need hosed out before it ever sees a trail after its encounter with the fire extinguisher. Aside from that, a big hole was cut in the floor and the patched (forgot to take pictures) in order to fit the NP241OR behind the NP231 (a new seat mount was also built), the transfer cases were assembled into a unit, and I finished putting skings on the bed and building my intergrated tool boxes. More pictures to come...

test

I will get pictures posted soon of this weekend. The picture hosting service I use is currently down, so until then I can do nothing. :redX:

Steal away man. I'm thinking the front crossmember/bumper and rear bumper/tailgate will make or break the overall image of the truck. This weekend's prioirty will be to get the transfer cases squared away so that we can build a front drive shaft and order a rear one. Perhapse we'll have time to mess with one bumper or the other aswell. Or start on the front part of the cage.

Yes, it is 2x6, 3/16" wall. I've got a friend that runs 2x4, it certainly provides a more flush fit. I went with the 2x6 for my cage mainly (the cage is all based off of the rockers), it also seems like it will protect the doors a bit better. I have not got any better pictures of the rockers right now, but I will take some for you on Saturday (should have them posted by Saturday night). I'll raise the lift to try to get some good points of reference for you.

Several months ago. I was lucky enough to find a 1992 Comanche Short Bed, with a 4.0L, AX15, NP231, a couple of dents, and no rust. Unfortunatly, I didn't take any pictures of it in stock form. At the time I was wanting to build the Jeep on a small budget... however my priorities have since shifted a bit. I'm currently about 1 month into the build up (with the help of a friend that has a local fabrication shop), and I'm begining to see the light of completion. The end result of our time spent fabricating and wrenching will be the following: -Jeep Cherokee Vinyl Bucket Seats -Jeep J10 Dana 44 Front (has 3" tubes), with Ford Knuckles and Brakes, a Lock Rite, Chromolly Shafts, CTM's and 5.13's -Ford Explorer 8.8 Rear, with disk brakes, a Detroit Locker, alloy shafts, and 5.10's -TNT Customs Long Arms and Transfer Case Skid Plate(heavily modified) -Bilstein 5125 14" Travel Shocks -~6" of Lift -NP231 (Box4Rocks) coupled to a NP241OR (Rubicon Transfer Case); which allows for use of the NP231 low range or the NP241OR low range or both combined -Custom Built Gas Tank utilizing the factory fuel equiptment -Custom Tube Bed (w/ skins), Steering, Rock Sliders, Cage, Front and Rear Bumpers/Crossmembers and Rear Traction Bar -38x12.5r15 Bias Ply Super Swamper TSL's Beyond this list, I'm building in mounts for a front and rear winch. I'm also considering selling the Ford 8.8 in favor of a Dana 70. All gearing considered, my final maximum crawl ratio should be about 213:1 (using both transfer cases which amounts to 10.88:1 low range). Wheel Base is currently 116", I think I will shorten up the front to make it 115" before all is said and done. Anyway, here are some of the pictures thus far; there will be more to come after this weekend. -Andrew

I vote a winch. However... If you insist on being responsible, US Bonds are a good safe investment. Mutual Funds are also generally a good, reliable choice. I supose the correct decision is based on what kind of a person your grandpa is, what kind of relationship you two have, and what he was looking to see you do with the money. Perhapse he wanted to see you have fun with it? Seems like if he wanted you to invest it, he could have just done it for you and left it to you when he dies. I supose the only way to know would be to ask.

It is a direct bolt in swap. The air pump for the locker runs about $60 each, or $90 for a pair from a Jeep dealership (if I remember right).

Certainly deserves a place on my list of future mods based on my goals for this Jeep. I think I'd best shoot for other things first though if its in that kind of price range (ie: drive train). Thanks for the information about it, I really appreciate all of the answers.

Those are good points. It would seem retrofitting a TJ tank is probablly a waste of time and resources. Where did you get the parts for your fuel cell/pump system (if you don't mind my asking)? Also, are you able to give me a basic list of components needed (I know nothing about fuel cells)?

My intention was to use the 97 TJ Gas Tank as a fuel cell. I was hoping that its fuel pump would be compatable with my Comanche's engine. Do you think I'm gonna be running into some issues? At about what point do the engines become "later versions"? I know in either 2000 or 2003, the engine whet to a distributorless system, AC moved, etc (a lot of changes), is that the point you're refering to?

Fuel Cell. :wink: