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8 inch lift


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That's all still up in the air as I'm jeepless atm, I'm starting a wish list. I'm in the middle of a tranfer of duty stations and am figuring out how much money i want to spend on mods. I'm thinking around 35's just to throw a number out there. I want to be able to have full flex in case I trail ride as well. As for gears and axles, I'm not knowledgeable in those areas, so I would ask for help in what you all think would work best.

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What i would do if I were to build another MJ:

 

cheap 87+ 4.0L 2wd MJ (pick your poison: stick or auto)

4wd trans (AX-15 if stick)

231 t-case

~5" lift (including shocks)

extra main leaf for the rear packs (or some sort of anti-wrap bar)

YJ brake lines up front

Dakota brake line for the rear

used 33" tires

used aftermarket rims (for less backspacing)

4.10 MJ/XJ front axle with the bigger 760 U-joints installed

v8 ZJ tie-rod up front

4.10 Explorer 8.8 with disks and open diff (non-posi, so I can easily install a locker)

1.5" rim spacers for rear axle (good ones, not cheap ones)

Aussie lockers for front and rear

front shaft

rear shaft (2wd shaft shortened to length)

custom rollbar (a real one, welded to the frame)

I'd probably add in a dual diaphram brake booster while I'm at it.

 

I imagine I can do the whole thing for around 3 grand as long as the initial truck didn't need too much work and I can find the used parts at the local pull-a-part. If there's more budget allowed, I could see myself upgrading the gears to 4.88s and doing the work to properly fit 35s.

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If I were to do it all over again, I would fix up my Comanche for DD duties, possibly mild lift (2"-3.5") with 31s. And build an XJ for a trail rig.

 

If I were building a cheap rig for mudding, I would start with a 3/4 ton full size truck as a base.

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kodiak, AK to alameda CA. your a coastie, for sure.

 

welcome to the board.

I am running with 6.5 rock krawler springs plus a 2 inch spacer. in the rear its a SAO with 2 inch longer shackles.

 

8.5 inches total with 35's= to much now that I have driven it for a while. yes a tall truck looks good, but the higher you go the more problems you have to deal with. ie drive shafts, steering angles, caster angles, general alignment issues.

 

I am dropping mine at least 1 maybe 1.5 inches and doing cut out flares.

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All the cool kids are building their rigs low and finding and stuffing big tires on them. If I were to do an MJ again, I'd do 3.5" RE Superflex kit and 33x10.50's. Dana 30 with a 44/8.8 and 4.56's.

 

 

Why tall lifts suck.

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My dream build:

 

91 or 92 mj

4.0/ax15

Soa on new metric ton leaf packs

Ford hp44 front w/ tnt truss and brackets 4.56 gears and hi-steer

14 bolt rear, 4.56 stock gears, detroit, disk brake conversion, shaved

High quality long arm t-case skid, custom arms.

 

For $5k you can build one hell of a rig.

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there's nothing wrong with rusty's anymore, they seem to have persevered through that muck. however i won't sit here and argue their side, nor argue with you about why they suck so bad. my friends and i still use them for stuff regularly, and in GA you get your products next day (ups ground) 9 times out of 10.

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37s with 6.5" is not some MINOR trimming... thats called removing the bedsides and fenders.

 

i have 6.5" and worn out 35s and they scrub pretty bad.

6.5" is about right for 33s

 

6.5" can clear 35's easy. I did it. And I think it was too tall, I wish I would have gone about 4.5".

 

I plan on running 33's on my current XJ with 0-2" of lift. There are a lot of things you can do to fit a bigger tire other than lift.

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I run 6.5" lift and 35" tires. It would be okay on the street, but for off road when the truck flexes a lot more I had to trim (quite agressively on the front) and still need to bump stop because the wheel well itself gets in the way.

 

I agree that a 33" tire is perfect for a 6.5" lift.

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