Preferred Oil for our "older" engines???

[1986Comanche]

Firstly, you should NEVER break in new rings with synthetic, secondly the only actual issue with synthetics in old engines is it will cause them to leak, cause they will break down sludge around seals

 

Synthetic oil does not cause leaks. If you do not have any leaks now, you will not have any leaks with synthetic oil. Break in is not a problem either. Brand new vehicles come with synthetic oil from the factory.

[kro10000]

The leaks arent caused by the synthetics directly, sludge buildup around leaky seals will stop a leak, but a synthetic may break it down, exposing a leaky seal

[1986Comanche]

The leaks arent caused by the synthetics directly, sludge buildup around leaky seals will stop a leak, but a synthetic may break it down, exposing a leaky seal

 

Well, if all you have holding your engine oil in is sludge you have an engine that wasn't maintained very well. Your seals were already shot.

[kro10000]

And I will state it again, NEVER use synthetics to break in an engine, New cars may come with synthetic oil, but were broken in with dino oil

[boardmanMJ]

i actually herd that the engine break in is best done with regualr oil (herd it on horsepower i believe, well that was atleast before royal purple came out with break in oil, which is essentially regualr oil in royal purple bottle) and switching regular to sythentic ive herd causes leaks because it does clean out the sludge that seals the rings in older unmaintained engines. once again ive only HERD stories ive never experienced it (i take care of my motors) myself so until i experience it myself I'm going to be like switzerland and stay neutral. just giving my 2cents though.

oh and also, sorry for hijacking this thread.

 

Josh

[kro10000]

Could be a coincidence, but when I just bought my dak, I had no leaks, but with Mobil 1 I suddenly had front crank and RMS leaks, its not the only case, this "myth" has some traction

[1986Comanche]

And I will state it again, NEVER use synthetics to break in an engine, New cars may come with synthetic oil, but were broken in with dino oil

 

New engines are not broken in on regular oil. There is not much break in on these new engines today and they have synthetic oil in them since day one.

[kro10000]

Yeah, except there definitely IS a break in period on a 4.0... And as I am not an expert on new industry practices I can't argue the point of 2010 engines, but I have doubts

[1986Comanche]

Yeah, except there definitely IS a break in period on a 4.0... And as I am not an expert on new industry practices I can't argue the point of 2010 engines, but I have doubts

 

I don't have doubts. I know. There are two new 2010 vehicles sitting in my driveway right now.

[kro10000]

Well no, I know that they roll in and out of a dealership with synthetics, but for the engine break in at the factory I believe dino oils are still the standard

[1986Comanche]

Well no, I know that they roll in and out of a dealership with synthetics, but for the engine break in at the factory I believe dino oils are still the standard

 

Breaking in an engine is a thing of the past. Break in on new vehicles is almost non-existent.

[kro10000]

I'm sorry, but this is just untrue. Every engine has a specific break in cycle at the factory, the break in procedures after the vehicle is recieved are no more, but they are definitely broken in

[comanche09]

The ZDDP that is in diesel engine oil damages catalytic converters. That is why they quit putting it in engine oil for gas engines.

 

May or may not - there's equal pro and con depending on what you read. I don't care. ZDDP doesn't hurt mine at all for sure. :D

 

Image Not Found

 

LMAO My Alabama cat involves a section of flex hose and a couple exhaust clamps.

 

I'm currently running Rotella-T 5w-40 Syn for the ZDDP. I switched from M1 10w-40 High Mileage. FWIW the M1 stopped my small oil leak. I noticed no change in engine noise/performance between the two or the regular old dino/slick 50 the PO was running in it.

[ComancheKid45]

Alright well i scanned through all the Oil selection today at work (Advance Auto Parts) and only came across 3 types that DID NOT have the API-SM code on them somewhere. Those 3 were...

 

Castrol Diesel 15w40 Not the Techron, just plain old diesel castrol, only available in qt

Shell Rotella Straight 30w (the Rotella 15w40 now sports the API-SM code)

Penzoil HD 30w (this also mentioned it contained Z-7, idk what that means)

 

Every other brand and weight from Vavoline to Quaker State sported API SM on it somewhere, so if your looking for an oil and are worried about this lack of Zinc issue it seems those are the only 3 choices left :doh:

 

Now my next question is, Should i stick with the 15w40 weight or start running straight 30w? :dunno:

[rcturgeon]

:hijack: after reading some I'm thinking about doing the diesel switch next oil change (this weekend if i have money for oil) but I'm wondering how the 2.5 will react i run a valvoline 5w-30 now, anyone want to give me some info.. or is it the same deal as the 4.0

 

 

o I'm thinking about the switch becasue i can hear some tapping someitmes when i stop at lights, any opinions?

[manche75]

:hijack: what about full sythentics like royal purple? I'm doing a 4.6l stroker in my 89 and ive always been told to never switch over an engine that has been run on regular oil for years to full synthetic, but I'm having it bored and machined so its basically going to be a new motor and I'm worried about the oil. regular MJ recommended oil is designed for 4.0l and with the 4.6l its going to be producing alot more power and with more power comes more heat so i figured full synthetic? could i be wrong? ive been having this "debate" (full synthetic vs. regular oil) with my dad for a long time now and he insists that regular is better. Also by the way i run 10w30 whatever-is-the-$12.99-oil-change-special-at-advance-autoparts-or-autozone with a can of restore. i believe it has zinc added in it and it seriously worked miracles on engines of mine. every oil change i will EVER do i will always put a can of restore in there because it works and ive seen it work first hand.

 

Josh

 

 

I agreeI believe the engine restore also works. I always run it. It freed up one of my sticky lifters.

[comanchedude]

I run Brad Penn racing oil it has the goods in it for the Jeep engine

 

http://www.bradpennracing.com/Zinc.aspx

[whowey]

Alright well i scanned through all the Oil selection today at work (Advance Auto Parts) and only came across 3 types that DID NOT have the API-SM code on them somewhere. Those 3 were...

 

Castrol Diesel 15w40 Not the Techron, just plain old diesel castrol, only available in qt

Shell Rotella Straight 30w (the Rotella 15w40 now sports the API-SM code)

Penzoil HD 30w (this also mentioned it contained Z-7, idk what that means)

 

Every other brand and weight from Vavoline to Quaker State sported API SM on it somewhere, so if your looking for an oil and are worried about this lack of Zinc issue it seems those are the only 3 choices left :doh:

 

Now my next question is, Should i stick with the 15w40 weight or start running straight 30w? :dunno:

 

 

SOPUS.. the maker of Pennzoil,Quaker State, Super tech(China Mart), Shell and several other brands also owns/produce a bunch of other additive products. One of them being Slick 50. I have a sneaky feeling that Z-7 additive in that Pennzoil oil is probably one of those additives. SOPUS has been aggressively marketing some of those additives by combining them with their other products.

 

One of the biggest concerns with single weight oil is going to be cold weather. If your local temperatures are cold enough, a single weight oil may keep an engine from even turning over due to its high viscosity.

[A-man930]

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.ph ... s_articles

 

I just ingested this the other day. Who knew it could be so complicated!?

Upon reading this article I'll be changing to the 5w30 or possibly a 0w30 of a different brand with a ZDDP additive.

That being said I currently run Valvoline "Not Street Legal" 10w30 racing oil. This was suggested to me by the Valvoline product rep during a training session at work (NAPA). He says it has "higher levels" of zinc that the old hot rodders coming in to the store would be asking for. I just sold some to my buddy with an old IH 304 and will be carrying some in the store from now on. However, upon further investigation it seems that its lack of detergents is a problem for a street engine... here's the valvoline info pages.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consu ... otor-oil/9

http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/

So it seems SYN power, "not street legal," or VR1 racing all have adequate levels of zinc and phosphorus for our engines.

[kro10000]

VR1 oil does not have the ZDDP levels needed, at least the stuff we sell is SM rated, syn power is also SM

[whowey]

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles

 

I just ingested this the other day. Who knew it could be so complicated!?

 

Dr. Haas is a very talented man... But when reading his studies, remember he is applying them to high performance, high compression, roller rocker motors. You are applying the information to a low performance, low compression, flat tappet motor. I wish he had published more information regarding his Expedition. Its requirements are closer to what we need rather than his Ferrari collection.

 

Low detergent oils are intended for limited usage. They are designed for motors that see brief periods of hard usage between changes, like circle track racers or drag racers.

[kro10000]

Just some updates, I have found that the Delo 400 oil is SM rated... And I found a common oil that is SL, peak oil, but Id never ever run peak... Luckily I found some old school valvoline that is SL

[87Warrior]

I will only run a ACEA A1/A5 or A3 10w-30 oil in my Jeep 4.0 engines. You can see my reasonings here:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19409&start=0&hilit=ACEA

 

I always ran Castrol SynTec in my Jeeps but used Castrol Edge last time since I could not find the 10w-30 SynTec. Both meet my desired specifications and work well in my 100k TJ and 190k MJ from -20 degrees to 110.

 

I did notice when changing the oil in my girls Camery that the Valvoline Synpower met the ACEA specification.

 

If you do fall in love with an oil, be sure to watch the lables. The manufactures change the formula and specs more often than most change their underwear.

[glundblad]

I found this article helpful. It supported what most were already saying.

 

http://www.aa1car.com/library/api_motor_oil_classifications.htm

 

I am gonna try Mobil 1 synthetic Diesel 5w-40 and see what happens. 1100ppm phosphorus/1200ppm zinc.

[A-man930]

Dr. Haas is a very talented man... But when reading his studies, remember he is applying them to high performance, high compression, roller rocker motors. You are applying the information to a low performance, low compression, flat tappet motor. I wish he had published more information regarding his Expedition. Its requirements are closer to what we need rather than his Ferrari collection.

 

Low detergent oils are intended for limited usage. They are designed for motors that see brief periods of hard usage between changes, like circle track racers or drag racers.

I was mainly interested in his explanation of viscosities and how they relate to a xW-xx labeled oil, as well as his explanation of synthetic v.s. conventional oils. But yes if you read the whole thing he definately blows off the whole notion that a "new" oil formulation could in fact be bad for an old engine (it sounds as if the article was written before the latest API rating...)

The more I research this topic the more I seem to find, again, who knew there was so much to it!? :eek:

 

I definately am sold on using synthetic oil in any vehicle I own, and now with a better understanding of motor oil viscosity ratings I am very hesitant to run anything rated 15Wxx or even 10Wxx for that matter. Unfortunately pretty much all diesel oils seem to be rated as such.

This leads me to believe that an additive may really be the best way to go (so far...)