BORDENCOMANCHE Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Okay so, I'm waiting for the last of my parts to come in the mail, not the problem, truck is ready and waiting for the parts. The rig, 88 MJ 4.0 Ba 10 RWD, SWB. Now its 88 MJ 4.0 Ba 10 4x4, SWB. (I bought axles from XJ with Ba 10 of the same year). My transmission came from 88 CJ/YJ (Can't remember) but it came with the transfer case attached to it for 200 dollars. THE PROBLEM. The yoke on the transfer case is too big for my front shaft (Cherokee front shaft) and I can't get the damn nut off!!! I got the nut off the cherokee in seconds with an impact gun, except here after impacting for like 1.5 hours and a whole can of WD40 it just won't budge. I don't know what to do. I am working outside in the cold on the ground with the transmission/t-case in the truck. I have secured the yoke so that it doesn't spin like crazy when I hit it with impact. I have the new nut and the new yoke. My two options next were to: a) Cut the damn thing off, CAREFULLY! B) (This is so dumb) Attach torque bar and socket, engage 4wd and start the truck, then dump the clutch for a brief second. HELP ME! I am a noob with stubborn bolts/nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WBKrazy Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 if you have access to a torch, a little heat will work wonders.... heat it up a little bit and it should zap right off.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 What do you mean the yoke is too big? What's too big? They should use the same U-joints... and the YJ yoke allows for extreme angles. Why did you get another BA 10/5? Why not an AX-15? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Well, at least now he has a parts BA10. WD40 is great for water displacement, but not really a lubricant. Try PB Blaster, or soak in tranny fluid. Also, the stock yokes accept the same u joints. Doesn't mean the drive shaft and yoke on the YJ were stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xjrebel Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 if you have access to a torch, a little heat will work wonders.... heat it up a little bit and it should zap right off.... :agree: that really works :bowdown: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 I like the clutch idea. Much more exciting. Anybody see where it went? However the torch is more practical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Just get a hybrid u-joint. More then likely it is a 1350, and you have a 1310 if the driveshaft is stock. Measure the yoke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 what did the front driveshaft come from? the same XJ that donated the axles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BORDENCOMANCHE Posted January 10, 2010 Author Share Posted January 10, 2010 yes the front drive shaft came from the xj. More explicitly. when I try to mount the front shaft up to the t-case, the yoke on the tcase is too large in diameter, the bolt holes on the yoke are farther apart than the ones on the CV joint. Now, not to sound retarded but the cv joint is the one that flips and turns all over the god damn place and has two u joints in it? The U joint itself fits in the t case yoke just fine, but the little dingle C#*@ thing is too small. LOL. What kind of torch am I going to use? Propane, map, acetyline? The last time I used acetyline I almost cooked somebody, friggin guy grabbed my arm while I was torchin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracker Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Just get a hybrid u-joint. More then likely it is a 1350, and you have a 1310 if the driveshaft is stock. Measure the yoke. Uhh...probably not a 1350. It is probably a 1310 but intended for a NON CV front driveline. Heating and plasting it with penetrant is the best bet to get it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knever3 Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 I use a MAP gas torch. The yellow can with a auto electric trigger. It's cheap and it has lasted me a couple years now on one can, I also use it to start fires outside and in. It's not as hot as a real set of torches but it has worked for every nut and bolt so far. X2 on the WD-40, it is not a penetrant, use PB blaster or a mix of acetone and trans fluid 50/50. Work smarter not harder Scrooge McDuck always said!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BORDENCOMANCHE Posted January 10, 2010 Author Share Posted January 10, 2010 Thanks boys, the PB Blaster will try it before I go and buy a thing of map gas, but I am guessing it will be a future purchase anyways. I didn't know that WD40 was crap. hmmm.. thanks boys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue XJ Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Just get a hybrid u-joint. More then likely it is a 1350, and you have a 1310 if the driveshaft is stock. Measure the yoke. Uhh...probably not a 1350. It is probably a 1310 but intended for a NON CV front driveline. Heating and plasting it with penetrant is the best bet to get it off. x2, if i'm not mistaken, YJ's didn't run a CV shaft up front, they just had ones with ujoints on both ends. More than likely the yoke is meant to accept a ujoint, with either a strap kit or a ubolt kit, causing it to not line up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STERLING STINGER Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 if you have access to a torch, a little heat will work wonders.... heat it up a little bit and it should zap right off.... :agree: that really works :bowdown: :agree: ....heat it up...and wd40 is not a lubricant... :drool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BORDENCOMANCHE Posted January 10, 2010 Author Share Posted January 10, 2010 Okay so failing everything, and nothing works, is it acceptable to disassemble the cv joint and get two straps and run a ujoint only setup?? I will not be lifting the truck, or running disconnected sway bar links. . . at least not in the near future. You guys are pro. Thanks a million. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 even if it's possible to remove the CV, the driveshaft will be way too short afterwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 you need HEAT. the front yoke on a YJ is NOT the same as the front yoke on an XJ...as the OP has found out. it must be changed, end of story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Okay so failing everything, and nothing works, is it acceptable to disassemble the cv joint and get two straps and run a ujoint only setup?? I will not be lifting the truck, or running disconnected sway bar links. . . at least not in the near future. You guys are pro. Thanks a million. nope. your driveshaft isn't long enough to do that anyways. your impact/air gun probably don't have the cojones to break the rust loose. put the truck in 4x4 with rear driveshaft in, then use a breaker bar, socket, and some PB blaster and work it til it comes loose. you should probably block the tires on the truck while you do this...and the truck should ground Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BORDENCOMANCHE Posted January 11, 2010 Author Share Posted January 11, 2010 Roger that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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