BORDENCOMANCHE

96 XJ with a four litre. For some stupid reason its running rich and lean at the same time. I can't figure it out for the life of me, it eats gas like theres no tomorrow. I replaced the feul filter and ALL IGNITION COMPONENTS. It gives me code 11, 12, 51, 52, and 55. Can't figure it out. The 11 code is for the CPS, but its brand new, less thank 400 kilometres on it. Please help.

Why is the Hell Creek website locked? Apparently I need a password to get in?

Just checked out my ignition switch, no dice, everything looks okay, blower motor runs, all accy's work. However I just remembered something that might have been critical. In the box that my winch came in was some kind of circut breaker I was supposed to attach to the positive terminal of my battery ... I never did, and right after I did some heavy winching, the truck died.

I have replaced the cam sensor. Took me two minutes with a philips screw driver and a butter knife. ALL ignition components replaced including the battery.

I have replaced ALL ignition components and all it does it crank, The only thing I haven't replaced is the computer, I can't get it to give any codes, not even the one that says everything is okay.

oh Forgot to mention I swapped ASD relay with A/C relay because it had the same numbers on the top, still no fix.

Okay guys, I'm sorry I know its not an MJ issue, but its an XJ, so its def close enough. I have a 1996 Cherokee SE, 4.0L, 231 with Ax-15. Bone stock, except for my winch. here's the problem. I was wheeling in the local mudhole, it was more watery then mud and at one point it came up to the bottom of the grill. I got stuck and had to winch out with the motor running, I was sure to take breaks on the winch, but the battery light did come on a few times. but it never died. So I continue wheelin and wham, the $#!& just dies in the middle of the hole to not restart. I had it towed home because trail fixes didn't work. So I started by checking for spark, there wasn't any. I replaced the Ignition Coil, still no spark, I replaced the CPS, no spark, I replaced camshaft position sensor, no spark. The feul pump runs before cranking. She can turn over forever and ever and ever without even a hit of a catch or a bite. Before all of this crap I did notice that I had to try three times in a row to get her started, but when I did, she ran like a champ. Sidenote.. When I click the key forward and back three times (for trouble codes) it used to display that the batt was disconnected 50 key starts ago (cause it was) and code 55, which is end of code sequence.. NOW IT DOESN'T do ANYthing at all. nO BLINKS, NO FLASHES... Soooooo, I'm wondering, funked computer? Please help me, I am losing MY god damn mind... P.s. Sorry for long post.

thanks man, I will tackle that in 45 minutes.

I took the volt meter the the O2 sensor and followed what the haynes did, and everything appeared okay. I am going to disconnect the battery and unplug the o2 sensor for the mean time. It should stop the buckin bronco?

PMS?

Okay the comanche is Dead, I cracked it in two and showed it no mercy once I did. I figured 1.5 years to get it on the road and its gonna break my first time out? Scrap. I did however remain kind of faithful. I bought a 1996 XJ with 4.0L, ax 15, and 231 transfer case, it was purchased for 300 dollars not because of the shape it was in but because of the owner. It had a rough idle when I bought it, so I immeadiately replace the plugs with the correct brand and make and the wires, the cap and the rotor, I even replaced the ignition coil, the feul filter. here's the problem... For the first 3.5 minutes of driving it runs great then when I come to a complete stop and turn a corner it starts bunny hopping like crazy and tries to shake itself apart, however momentarily turning off the engine and restarting it will correct the issue for about 3.5 more minutes. I am stumped as all hell here. The computer says that there is a short in the o2 sensor wiring I checked it, its all good. Even if the O2 sensor is fried, it should still run in dummy mode should it not??? Thanks in advance.

Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack the thread. Will a ba10/5 survive 31s with light duty wheeling little baby mud puddles and various trails?

I also want to install a 3 inch lift, what are the maximum sized tires I can run with D35 and D30 axles?

The morning after.... So hung over, head pounding, can't hear a thing... yeah that was pretty much it last night, I had a couple of brews and got crazy then it finally dawned on me, all the work I actually have done to this thing. Thats alot mate, alot of time...

*Shifty eyes* Not that I have encountered this before, but I have seen great success in many other issues with old parts, I would disassemble them, clean and reassemble. Check bushings as neccessary.

Muah

WOW! Apologize again, I am totally ripped so if this doesn't make sense.... I understand the Jeep so much better when I am drinkin.. almost makes the hood look good enough to sleep on. RockAuto in the process of sending me new master, just a waiting game... To all, thank you for the advice and I will update you guys soon, maybe I will even take pictures Two more things, just to rack your brains some more, exactly how does a master work? and I need to choose a name, two possibilities are, Vagabond and Thunderdome (or other madmax inclined adjective) .... Dunnno I'm ripped, love you guys. I am sure you will understand when you see the pictures.

Was looking at the old Clutch/PP and I noticed that if the disk was put in backwards it would make bolting the unit to the flywheel rather difficult, so once again I am leaning on my Master Cyl.

Shrug, I don't know man, clutches ain't my thing, it didn't come in the kit, so I didn't think it was necessary. LOL The clutch line is 9 months old. Should I replace it anyways? I mean, this truck has sucked the better part of 6,000 dollars out of me already.

Yes, bands were in place and no I did not resurface the flywheel, I did however clean it with brake cleaner. I knew the scale of work involved going into the repair so I was extra careful with all dealings in that matter of installing the new clutch. I do believe that my master cylinder might be on the fritz. Picture this: The seal on the resevoir cap is old and coroded and gone, the thing looks like crap and when wifey is bleeding the system I get different strengths of squirt each time coming out of the bleeder. Also it was $#!& easy to bend the splines on the old pressure plate so I wonder if my master doesn't have the cohanas to operate the new equipment. Either way a new one is on the way and I will be installing it before I rip that tranny off again. Any body else agreed with my diagnosis? In the mean time, I am fabbing up some tube doors. Gotta love my little $#!&box welder :D LOL

Or you can do like I did, 4x4 it with a cherokee of the same year and model AND slap a huge winch on it.

PAIN IN THE F***in @$$!!!! Just did mine during the winter and spring, it worked out great but unless your ready to ditch your friends for some SERIOUS wrench time and some SERIOUS dollars in nuts and bolts then I wouldn't do it. SLAP a huge winch on that thing and go play with the rest of them.

So the wife and I bled the slave through a whole bottle of fluid and it doesn't seem to be getting us anywhere, I am going to try filling the tranny with fluid to see if that helps. I just don't understand how this is happening. The clutch disc says right on it, this side towards flywheel (Actually says, FLYWHEEL SIDE) and there is a detent that goes into the pressure plate, the whole kit and kaboodle is brand new. Guess I know what I am doing tomorrow. Has anybody ever successfully remvoved the tranny with the Cross member still on???

brand new slave

Okay, I didn't bleed it more yet, wife got me to cut the grass instead, however I snuck another quick diagnostic. With the truck on level ground, break off I can push in the clutch pedal and attempt to force the truck into gear, when I do, it looks like it SLLLLOOOOWLY rolls forward. Rolls better in second gear. Ryan,.