BORDENCOMANCHE

If you have a working parking brake, can you run outside real quick, apply it then turn on the vehicle, I want to see if your tail lights come on or not? I think my e-brake is FUBAR. Thank you in advance, ryan. Oh, I know you guys will probably wanna see pics of my rig, soon, I promise.

What a PITA!!! The front exhaust port had burned through the gasket about 5 years ago minimum I am guessing, so I was tired of the MJ sounding like a dive bomber. Bad news, I mistakenly allowed the CPS wire to rest on the exhaust and I cooked the wire beyond all recognition. Its okay, I have spliced this on a buddies XJ before and it worked beautifully for the life of the vehicle, just gotta do mine. Would recommend to anybody if your going to do the replacement of the manifold gasket, don't cheap out, this wasn't an easy job.

I should also mention That I don't have the pull handle for the e-brake installed and my battery (which has been ever so faithful) has suddenly required boosting in the last couple of days whenever I don't start the truck every 8 hours.

Nope, bulb only goes in one way, also I just noticed that my E brake light or brake warning light if you will is on, I don't have front signal light markers or my rear tail light regular driving lights, when I put 4 ways on, they work fine, except for previous mentioned socket!!! God damn truck!! I was having rough idle issues so I went to my local hardware store and bought some multi-strand copper wire (thick stuff) and ran a main lead off the firewall location for the ground to five other spots under the hood that I could easly access, it looks like crap but damn she starts up Fine and runs to normal idle within 2.5 seconds. (2.5 seconds from key turn of course) Not bad for an 88 w/303,000 KM. Now if I could just get the running lights working.

Turns signals, issues before: No blink to the left, slow @$$ blink to the right (pass side). I replaced the Flasher unit under the dash with one from crappy tire, now all blink normally fast except for driver front, which doesn't blink at all!!! Before the unit would come on as a marker light, but now not at all. Could my plug where the bulb sits be screwed in addition with having a bad flasher.??

I have many friends in the navy, I am army myself, after talking to them. They say one of the most labourous and painstaking tasks is constantly repainting the boats. Everytime they pull into harbour they repaint the boat with this stuff you were talking about. And as a personal opinion, anything you put on the underbelly of your baby could get scraped off anyways. Find the even balance between price and suitability. My two cents.

I also agree, you should see the MLVWs we use in the army, that "OLD" detriot diesel does not wake up for NOBODY!!! At least without some TLC and some serious harsh language :mad:

first thing I heard that makes sense all day!!! hey you boys have any good ideas to clean the terminals in the fuse block itself? Without all the pain the arse of removing it?

Friggin idiot, you figure he would have payed some more attention. Ya bro, check your grounds as much as you can, anything that looks discoloured, change. Oh, have you unhooked your battery yet, I don't know what it does to our trucks, but I know on my grand prix, it resets EVERYTHING. Maybe she just needs a breather without power for a while?? Had an incident a while ago while riggin up underglow, and I pinched the wires, there was an assload of smoke, but only because it grounded, I checked the grounds and everything was good.

yeah, I am having a major issue with my lights, the turns to the left only come on to stay on, the running lights come on also. The blinkers to the right blink really really really slow, like "DUH" slow. I took the flasher rig out and cleaned it, made no difference. Could it still be F****ED!?

I drilled out the holes and will be replacing the stock studs with 1/4 inch bolts until I can purchase this fancy smancy U-Bolt kit. Took me 5 and a half minutes to drill out 4 holes. Thanks for the help guys. Will post pics of my riggins soon.

Okay just as I connect everything in my 4x4 swap I decided to test the comanche in the 2 and a half feet of snow in my back yard, I put it in 4 hi, drives right into the snow no problem. I go to reverse and back up, BOOM! I snap the yoke strap bolts on the front to one side of the U-joint. The result, I now have a UJoint Cap in one side of my Yoke still strapped down and on the other side I have two studs with no heads in them, jammed into the holes. Can I simply drill out my busted studs and replace the U joint?? Bell.

Oh an one more thing, don't break the little tabs off the new slave and if your reusing your slave, make sure you use the slave mounting pin and that you reset it (squish down) the throwout bearing and lock it in place with the little tabs, this is essential in properly lining up your setup.

Yeah, get one with a new slave included in the kit. and Watch out for oddities in the size of the disc/pressure plate. Most parts companies are not perfectly clear on the whole ax15 and ba10/5. I learned this when I ordered a mount for a pukey only year on my 88 and a ax15 mount showed up. But there are some nice kits that come complete.

Scrap piece of metal, a 5/8 drill bit and a welder. Tada!, weld the scrap piece of metal onto the mount, drill holes in the plate, done.

wait a second here? Just finishing my 4x4 swap with the Comanche, using XJ parts, I didn't need no 4x4 springs. Whats the dealio here?

Yep and it only took me an hour and about 5 dremel discs, a hammer and some common sense. (Which isn't too common). See I thought about smacking the plate on the rear before but I got intimidated by that big shaft, so I just left it and bought a new unit. You guys really saved my @$$. And sorry no pics, no camera, but I am sure that taking it apart again is in the very new future. Besides getting my hands on an ax-15 sounds pretty cool. (Bell)

Not only have I now converted my original ba 10/5 to a 4X4, but now the cherokee 231 will fit on an function. I have discovered something that everybody needs to be aware of. THE 1988 xj/mj np 231 is NOT the same as the YJ 231. There in lays my promblem. My 4x4 conversion is complete. You guys are INTENSE!!! Thank you very very very much! :banana: :banana: :banana: :cheers:

I also was thinking of running a corded electric impact, don't own one yet, I like pneumatic.

The noise is non-existant with the clutch pushed in.

I kept the 2wd clutch and pressure plate on there when I put the new tranny/t-case unit on as a whole, which came with an unkown condition throw out bearing. I will try the old throw out bearing, I will drain the tranny, maybe take it apart. Here are some of the things I noticed about the tranny, it works just fine, with the exception of hard shifting sometimes, it will fight to let go of reverse. 2nd gear start works just fine to. I ran it with the drive shafts off and had the same noise. will climbing under the truck with a stethascope tell me exactly where the noise is coming from??? Accurately?

Mine has never officially been on the road I have always had to trailer it somewhere to legally play with it. I live on an army base, people stop at the end of my driveway, look at the half gloss, half flat black rust paint spray bomb hillbilly paint job i did in -10 degree celcius weather. They then get out of their cars on my little 1.5 lane wide street, walk up to it, after seeing if anybody is looking of course, they poke around it, look in it, then sometimes they knock on the door and have rediculous questions like "Is that a jeep?" and "What the hell is that?" and hey can you take me in the mud? But nobody ever wants to help build it. Ya, the comanche is a real mans truck but at the same time I find its a huge idiot magnet. By idiots, I mean the ignorant people who love, eat sleep breathe and hump HONDAs, AKA lawnmower cars. (Editted for grammar)

does it really make a difference in sound?

Two points: 1) I really like the idea of chopping up the 2wd tranny, it was in good shape, I know this for fact, because I wheeled the SH#* out of it. I tried sticking the 2wd shaft into the back of the transfer case when I removed it just for *#$#s and giggles and it didn't fit in because the old tranny had a 23 spline output (I hope the number is right). 2)Here is where I screwed up. You guys are right, I should have put on a new clutch and what not, local parts guy quoted me 275 for pressure plate, clutch, and throwout bearing assembly. Problem is, I didn't have the money, I still have a mount and shaft to pay for (which by the way will be on its way soon). The Ba10/5 and NP231 came as a unit from a private purchase, the guy assured me that unit was good to go, I checked it by hand in his garage by using all the ranges on the t-case and all the gears on the tranny respectively. The throwout bearing that came with unit spun freely like a top, so I thought it was good, I just installed it. It looked in better shape then the one I had. I do have my old one, maybe I will throw it on and find out what happens, failing that, I guess I will just mix and match parts until the noise goes away, if I end up chopping the 2wd Tranny I will take pictures. FYI I was reading in my chiltons that there are two types of clutch plates for these 4.0L trucks and that each has its own hydrulic clutch. One won't work with the other, there is a difference of one and a quarter inch. The throw out bearing I put in there came out of a YJ.

the answer is always money buddy, I don't have much left in my 4x4 swap budget, I owe WildBill 100 something bucks which puts me 200 over budget. Money man,.