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My D35 is Growling at me.


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My D35 growls when I let off tha gas. Sounds fine runnin down tha road but as soon as I let off tha gas it starts growling at me. I can also feel a vibration. I've held my hand on tha auto shifter and don't really feel much there but I can feel it pretty much throughout tha whole rear half of tha truck. What is it???

 

Thanks.

Robert

 

 

As stupid as it may sound to some of you, I've got a transfer case question ........... Whats tha difference in a NP231, a 231 and a 231 J? Are they all Selectrac? And if so why tha different numbers? If not, which one is Selectrac?

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sounds to me like a pinion bearing.
I agree that its something in tha rearend but how or why would it be smooth and quiet while its under power but not when decelerating? One would think that a bad bearing is a bad bearing regaurdless of which dirrection the torque it recieves is coming from. :dunno:

This thing vibrates pretty good when decelerating from highway speeds. Enough so that I don't like to do it. I feather tha gas to keep it from growling and or vibrating down to about 35mph.

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As stupid as it may sound to some of you, I've got a transfer case question ........... Whats tha difference in a NP231, a 231 and a 231 J? Are they all Selectrac? And if so why tha different numbers? If not, which one is Selectrac?

They are Command-Trac, not Selec-Trac.

 

NP 231 stands for New Process 231, where New Process is the maker. In some years it's NV, for New Venture Gear. Same company, different name on the door. 231 J is an NP (or NV) 231 case made for a Jeep vehicle.

 

Selec-Trac was a 228/229 for 1986, and a 242 from '87 thru '92.

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Gonna respond to all yalls replies in one post. First let my extend my thanks and appreciation to all of you for your help.

 

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No, I havent noticed any kind of a clunk when going from excellerating to braking. Nore does it clunk when put into gear or go from forward to reverse but I'll double chech it.

 

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I'll drop tha driveshaft and check tha u-joints as suggested but I think my growling is gonna be a bit more extensive.

 

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Thanks for explaining the difference in tha t/c's for me. I know how a Selec-Trac (242) works since apparently thats what I had in my 89 XJ Limited. (full time/part time 4x4) I also have two sons that own a couple ZJ's that have tha same full time/part time Selec-Trac.

Considering that we live in tha south and don't have much use for full time four wheel drive, would a 231 Command Trac be a better choice for me? Besides tha full time part time capability of a 242, is one better or more durable than the other?

Let me back up a bit. In case your wondering why I'm asking for t/c info, I'm trying to complete the 4x4 conversion the previous owner started on this truck but have yet to find a tranny or t/c for it. I wanna stay with an auto trans (AW4) but what t/c to run is undecided. I assume both tha 231 and 242 will bolt up to an AW4 behind a 4.0

I'm looking for a doner XJ to pull a working tranny, t/c, t/c shifter and linkage out of. My truck is an 88 model so what all year models of a doner do I need to be looking for? Been told 87 to 90 but won't that depend on what t/c I decide to use? Between tha two (231/242) isnt there a difference in tha number of shaft input/output splines? (21/23)

I'll definately have more ????? for ya later.

 

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Yeah, I'd like/need to replace my 35 with a 44. Tell me this, if I find a 44 for tha rear with lower gears than my front 30 has, will that burn one or the other up? How bout if I only lock in the front while offroad and likely in wet/muddy conditions? Would it make a difference if I had a full time/part time t/c inwhich allows the front and rear to turn at different speeds? And or, would that promote premature wear and eventually burn up tha t/c?

 

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I think I told yall in another thread that I don't do hard core offroading. This truck see's more pavement than it does dirt. I only need to use 4x4 to crawl around on the often muddy roads/trails where I do wild hog trapping. Thats about all the offroading it'll ever see.

 

Yalls years of experience and your generosity to share it with others is truely appreciated.

 

Thanks again.

Robert

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Back to the transfer case - the 231 is slightly stronger than the 242, but ... try to find anyone who has busted a 242.
With that in consideration, I think I'll stick with a 242. Who knows, maybe someday hell will in fact freeze over and I'll need full time 4x4 to git through all tha snow tha falls ..... in Houston. :roll: :laughin: LOL!!!
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Really the only thing the 231 has over the 242 is when you're considering harder wheeling, the 231 has less parts to break.
I don't do hard wheeling so I think a 242 will do just fine.

Still need to know what all years of XJ's I need to be looking for as a doner vehicle to pull tha trans and t/c out of. Are there any other vehicles other than XJ's that run tha same trans and t/c?

While we're at it, I need to know tha same info on what years and models I can pull a rear 44 out of.

Amongst other things, I still have concerns about running different gears in front and rear.

 

Robert

 

This has some great info on Jeep 4x4 systems http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_four_ ... ve_systems

But it doesnt help much as far as what will or won't interchange.

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I don't think the AW-4 was used in anything other than Jeeps.

 

You can pull a 44 out of any MJ and it'll bolt right in, or an XJ is the same axle, but the spring perches will need to be moved.

 

Amongst other things, I still have concerns about running different gears in front and rear.

 

There's no concern. DON'T do it.

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I don't think the AW-4 was used in anything other than Jeeps.

 

You can pull a 44 out of any MJ and it'll bolt right in, or an XJ is the same axle, but the spring perches will need to be moved.

 

Amongst other things, I still have concerns about running different gears in front and rear.

 

There's no concern. DON'T do it.

You gotta move tha spring perches or tha passenger shock mount? I know about tha XJ shock mounts being staggered where as the MJ's are both in tha rear. No problem. The previous owner put an XJ axle in this truck but never finished tha job so I had to relocate the passenger side shock mount in order to mount tha shocks he gave me with tha truck. Why do the spring perches need to be relocated? You talkin about on the frame or on the axle?

Good to know info on tha different gears. Thanks. I assume all 4x4 models with a 44 rear will have matching gears in tha front. What front axle will be in a vehicle with a 44 rear"? Another 44? Other???

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The perches on the axle need to be moved.

 

Pete's got a diagram showing the stock locations of the perches XJ vs. MJ.

 

The XJ shock mounts can just be hacked off and forgotten. The MJ uses shock plates that the U-bolts bolt through, instead of just the spring plate that the XJ has.

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The Asin Warner 4speed auto was used an a number fo other vehicles..

 

Toyota Supra & some toyota trucks for example...

 

From Wikipedia: The Aisin-Warner four-speed automatic transmission (AW4) was selected by AMC in 1987 for use in the Cherokee XJ's new inline six-cylinder 4.0 L design. It was manufactured by Aisin-Warner, a member of the Toyota group, in partnership with Borg-Warner. It shares many parts with the Aisin 450-43LE that is used in Toyota off-road vehicles.

 

The AW4 is also used behind the 2.5 L (150 in³) AMC Straight-4 engine. It has a removable bell housing with a cutout for the crank position sensor. Early AW4s used both 21- and 23-spline output shafts. In the 1991 the AW4 was changed to a 23-spline output shaft, concurrent with adoption of the High Output (commonly known as H.O.) inline six-cylinder engine.

 

CW

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The Asin Warner 4speed auto was used an a number fo other vehicles..

 

Toyota Supra & some toyota trucks for example...

 

Good to know. I used to play with those oh-so-reliable Supras back in the day, but back then I had very little knowledge of, well, anything.

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The perches on the axle need to be moved.

 

Pete's got a diagram showing the stock locations of the perches XJ vs. MJ.

 

The XJ shock mounts can just be hacked off and forgotten. The MJ uses shock plates that the U-bolts bolt through, instead of just the spring plate that the XJ has.

Will tha shock plates still work with a leaf over lift? Finding MJ parts is tough down here. Seems like most of um are up north. Not likely that I'll find an MJ with a good 44 under it. XJ's however are plentiful.

don't know "Pete" or where to find his diagram.

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You can use the shock plates with SOA, but I understand it takes a little modification to get it to work correctly.

 

And "Pete" would be the creator, owner, operator, and head administrator of this here forum.

OOPS!!! Sorry Pete.

 

Other than the obvious of moving the XJ's passenger side shock mount from the front to behind the axle, Wouldnt it be easier while your at it to just move both of the XJ shock mounts inward about an inch or so for shock to spring clearance? That lack of clearance was the only problem I saw when I installed my shocks. Though I hate to admit it, I installed tha shocks upside down so the shock wouldnt be rubbing on the inside of tha spring. I knew it wasnt right but its all I could come up that would work at tha time. Moving tha shock mounts inward an inch would eliminate that problem.

 

Details ....... the previous owner started a 4x4 conversion and installed the axles out of an 88 XJ under this truck. In the rear he did a SOA and a pathetic excuse for a 5-6 inch lift in the front. Thats as far as he got. Since I've owned it, all I've done was remove the passenger side shock mount and re-weld it on the back side of the axle in order to install the shocks he gave me. After relocating the passenger shock mount I tried to install the shocks but found that they were too close to the inside edge of the leaf spring. Therefore the only way I could install tha shocks was to install um upside down. In doing so the shaft of the shock would then clear the leaf spring without rubbing. Tha shocks just barely hit or rubbed even when installed righ side up.

So .... if the shock mounts were moved inward on the axle about an inch the shocks would no longer hit or rub against tha springs when installed properly.

By doing this I don't see any reason why the spring perches would need to be moved.

Unless I'm missing something and this won't work, please speak up and explain why.

Oh, one more thing. I did noice that the angle of the shocks was a little off. That could easily be corrected by properly aligning the shock mounts before re-welding them to the axle. They would need to be rotated downward a bit.

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