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My D35 is Growling at me.


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Putting an XJ axle SOA on an MJ without moving the perches would cause the leafs to bend outward, and at some point something would self destruct.
Didnt know that. Reckon I'll have to take a look and do some measuring. (just read an article that said the difference is half an inch)

 

Been surfin around readin info on D44's in XJ's and MJ's. Apparently Jeep only put 44's in XJ's that had a factory tow package and in the long bed MJ's that had the "metric ton package". However, for whatever reason not all XJ's with a tow package actually received a D44 rear end. :???:

Read something about the upper end XJ models were the most likely candidates to find 44's in. That the upper end models received more of the optional tow packages than the more base models did.

I'll continue my search for a doner XJ or long bed MJ. Sure be nice to find one that has everything I need in working order. (auto trans, 242 t/c and a 44) I LIKE TO DREAM BIG!!!

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29 spline Chryco 8.25 is a pretty strong axle(near D44), and will probably be much, much easier to find.
Most likely cheaper too!!! So what Chryco vehicles have tha 8.25's in um? And, what kind of mods are required to install it?
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shortbed MJs can be found with a Dana 44 rear, independent of the Metric Ton package (which was a longbed-only thing).
Damn Pete. Is there anything you don't know about Jeeps??? LOL!!! I thought I done good finding that info after hours of surfing. :typing:

Now I know I can save lots of time by just askin you. :bowdown: LMAO!!!

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that's why I always suggest just asking questions. The collective knowledge on this board is quite impressive. :cheers:
Thats quite obvious. And for those of us who need it truely appreciate yalls help. I just don't wanna be a pest asking the same questions that have likely been answered countless times or every time somebody new comes along.

 

With that said .......... You can count on me BOSS. I won't let ya down. LOL!!!

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OK, but just remember ................. you ask for it!!!

I hope tha rest of yall fully understand what Pete just got you into. I've got a long list of un-answered question.

:doh: (if I could just remember where I put it) :???:

 

If we didn't like answering questions, we wouldn't be here. :thumbsup:

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THANKS. YOU GUYS ARE GREAT!!!

 

Now back to axles.

I don't know about tha rest of you but I'm gonna be lookin for an axle thats gonna require the least amout of mods as pessible. I'm not afraid of cutting and welding but naturally tha less that has to be done tha better.

With that said, on a scale of dificulty, which axle/axles are gonna have the least amount of mods for instalation?

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All XJ axles are gonna be the same amount of work, which is just cutting the XJ stuff off and welding the MJ stuff on.

 

Obviously an MJ axle will be easiest, unless you're going SOA, then it's the same process as doing an XJ axle.

 

I understand certain Ford 8.8s will work without much hassle, but you need to run spacers. Pete will have to correct me on that though.

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removing brackets is easy. the important thing is finding the right gear ratio in a stronger axle. :thumbsup:

 

Some guys run the Explorer 8.8 without the spacers. it all depends on the tires/rims used and personal preference. the axle is only 5/8" more narrow on each side.

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All XJ axles are gonna be the same amount of work, which is just cutting the XJ stuff off and welding the MJ stuff on.

 

Obviously an MJ axle will be easiest, unless you're going SOA, then it's the same process as doing an XJ axle.

 

I understand certain Ford 8.8s will work without much hassle, but you need to run spacers. Pete will have to correct me on that though.

Ahhhh, there in-lies a problem. I don't have any of the MJ axle stuff.
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All XJ axles are gonna be the same amount of work, which is just cutting the XJ stuff off and welding the MJ stuff on.

 

Obviously an MJ axle will be easiest, unless you're going SOA, then it's the same process as doing an XJ axle.

 

I understand certain Ford 8.8s will work without much hassle, but you need to run spacers. Pete will have to correct me on that though.

Ahhhh, there in-lies a problem. I don't have any of the MJ axle stuff.

What do you mean you don't have any of the MJ axle stuff? Isn't there an axle under your truck now? If so, you have the "stuff."

 

The XJ rear axle is set up different from the MJ. Aside from the XJ having the springs over the axle, on the XJ the lower shock absorber mounts are brackets welded to the axle tubes. On the MJ, the lower ends of the shocks mount to pins on the spring plates. When using an XJ axle, you either cut the shock brackets off and throw them away -- or you could just leave them, if you won;t be doing heavy off-road stuff.

 

You could cut the XJ spring pads (perches) off and re-use them. Or you could buy new ones. The best deal going for spring perches, if you buy new, is the pair from the Mopar Performance Catalog. They are beefy, slightly longer than the stock ones, and less than half the price of anybody else's. If they are still available, the part number is P4120074

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Considering I don't expect to find a XJ/MJ with a 44 still in it, I need to know which axle (8.8 or 8.25) is gonna have the best traction control, limited slip, locker or whatever you wanna call it. I'm not really into doin axle work. Not that I don't think I could, I just can't want to.

I just wanna drive this thing. I don't think I should need a bunch of H/D or special parts just to drive through a little mud now and then. I don't climb mountains, crawl over big @$$ rocks, git airborn or see how fast I can go through a mud pit. All I need my truck to do is git me down some muddy trails on flat ground.

I aint sceerd of doin tha work, but tha more we talk about it, tha more I think changing axles is gonna cost me money I don't really have. I know yall say 35's are weak but they've been gittin people down muddy trials for years. For my application, do I really need to go to the expence of changing axles?

Yes, getting back where all this started my 35 is making noise and I know I'm gonna have to replace or repair it. IF, I can replace it for the same cost as fixing it, then by all means I'll replace it. Yall have already made me aware that my XJ axle isnt set up properly and I need to do all tha same mods to it that I'd have to do to a replacement axle.

I think if I can repair my 35 for less than replacing it, I'd rather save tha money and put it towards a tranny and t/c so I'll actually have a four wheel drive truck to git down those muddy trails in. Not to mention I also need to git my front end set up properly before I connect power to it. (6" springs, adj track bar and adj control arms)

Basicly it comes down to $$$. Which am I gonna be able to do tha cheapest??? Repair or replace? I wouldnt think a used 8.8 or 8.25 would be very expencive. But then neither should be a set of bearings for a 35.

Sorry this is so long winded. I'm apparently thinkin outloud and hoping yall bare with me till I figure out what to do.

Can yall tell me what bearings and seals cost for a 35? How bout gears? (4.11's or 4.27's) I think 4.56's would be to low for hwy use.

I'll call around tomorrow and see what axles are goin for but I need to know what all I'm looking for. I'm sure their gonna ask me what make and model I need it for.

Yeah,,,,,,,,, its a 19?? or 20?? Chryford 4x4 with an engine. :huh???:

 

So far we have ........ a 97+ XJ with a 8.25, any year Liberty with a 8.25, a Ford 4x4 Explorer with an 8.8 (need to know what years on tha Ford) What about a 4x4 Dodge Dakota or Durango? Do they run 8.25's? (if so, need to know what years)

 

---------------------------------------------------------------

 

OK, I just found this spec sheet on tha Country model XJ. (note it claiming they came with the "trailer towing group" and "Trac-Loc" dif) If what this says is true, what axle and gears will a Country have? Aslo, what all year model will have this axle setup and would one be a candidate for my replacement?

 

1997 Jeep Cherokee Country

by Nick Hromiak

 

SPECIFICATIONS

 

ENGINE: 4.0L OHV 6-cylinder

HORSEPOWER/TORQUE: 190-hp and 225 ft/lbs of torque at 3,000 rpm

TRANSMISSION: 4-speed electronically controlled automatic

FUEL ECONOMY: 15 city, 21 highway mpg

WHEELBASE: 101.4 in.

OVERALL LENGTH: 167.5 in.

OVERALL WIDTH: 67.9 in.

OVERALL HEIGHT: 64.0 in.

CURB WEIGHT: 3,153 lbs. (4-door)

FUEL CAPACITY: 20.0 gals.

LUGGAGE CAPACITY: 34.06/71 cu. ft. (rear seat up/down)

TIRES: P225/75R15 Goodyear Wrangler RT/S

INSTRUMENTATION: Uncluttered, easy to read with large dials

for HVAC

 

EQUIPMENT: Leather/vinyl seats power driver seat,

Country Package includes A/C, tilt wheel,

cruise control, trailer towing group,

full size spare, skid plates, HD radiator,

special shocks, Track-Lok Differential,

4-wheel ABS, overhead console, Select-Trac 4WD,

sunscreen glass, rear window defroster,

dual power heated mirrors, fog lamps,

AM/FM stereo cassette/CD, six premium

Infinity speakers.

STICKER PRICE: $27,970

 

 

Thanks guys. I know this is a lot to keep track of. Hell, even I've had to go back and read it about a dozen times. :???:

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Considering I don't expect to find a XJ/MJ with a 44 still in it, I need to know which axle (8.8 or 8.25) is gonna have the best traction control, limited slip, locker or whatever you wanna call it. I'm not really into doing axle work. Not that I don't think I could, I just can't want to.

I just wanna drive this thing. I don't think I should need a bunch of H/D or special parts just to drive through a little mud now and then. I don't climb mountains, crawl over big @$$ rocks, git airborne or see how fast I can go through a mud pit. All I need my truck to do is git me down some muddy trails on flat ground.

I ain't scared of doing that work, but that more we talk about it, the more I think changing axles is gonna cost me money I don't really have. I know yall say 35's are weak but they've been gettin people down muddy trials for years. For my application, do I really need to go to the expense of changing axles?

Yes, getting back where all this started my 35 is making noise and I know I'm gonna have to replace or repair it. IF, I can replace it for the same cost as fixing it, then by all means I'll replace it. Yall have already made me aware that my XJ axle isn't set up properly and I need to do all the same mods to it that I'd have to do to a replacement axle.

I think if I can repair my 35 for less than replacing it, I'd rather save the money and put it towards a tranny and t/c so I'll actually have a four wheel drive truck to git down those muddy trails in. Not to mention I also need to git my front end set up properly before I connect power to it. (6" springs, adj track bar and adj control arms)

Basically it comes down to $$$. Which am I gonna be able to do the cheapest??? Repair or replace? I wouldn't think a used 8.8 or 8.25 would be very expensive. But then neither should be a set of bearings for a 35.

Sorry this is so long winded. I'm apparently thinking out loud and hoping yall bare with me till I figure out what to do.

Can you tell me what bearings and seals cost for a 35? How bout gears? (4.11's or 4.27's) I think 4.56's would be to low for hwy use.

I'll call around tomorrow and see what axles are going for but I need to know what all I'm looking for. I'm sure their gonna ask me what make and model I need it for.

Yeah,,,,,,,,, its a 19?? or 20?? Chryford 4x4 with an engine. :huh???:

 

So far we have ........ a 97+ XJ with a 8.25, any year Liberty with a 8.25, a Ford 4x4 Explorer with an 8.8 (need to know what years on the Ford) What about a 4x4 Dodge Dakota or Durango? Do they run 8.25's? (if so, need to know

 

OK, Yes the D35 can and does survive for some people. Mine is still good and sitting in the back of the garage. I swapped in a D44 form a XJ some years back. My D35 in the TJ was toasted on the street with 31"s!! So wanna keep it, just roll the dice and hope for the best.

 

What everyone is saying to you is you NEED to spend money, don't spend it polishing a turd. Spend it upgrading to a better axle.

 

For the cheapest option here in CT, I would be looking for a '99+ Cherokee (XJ) 8.25 axle. It gets you the correct width and a much stronger housing and a slightly better axle shaft. Overall its as strong as the highly touted D44. Remember the weak point for most axles is its housing, NOT the axle shaft or carriers. the 8>25 is a very strong housing with 3" tubes and a large carrier housing. Then remove the perches and shock mounts. Weld of new MOPAR perches and bolt it in, using the MJ lower spring plates and call it good. Be sure you get the correct axle ratio for the front axle and FORGET about factory traction devices. They where all LS units that are more slip than traction, NOT WORTH EVEN CONSIDERING.

 

The 8.8 is narrower by 5/8" EACH side. So aft market rims or spacers will be needed. Then its a flanged mount, not a yeke like or MJ/J's. So you will need that too. Its a good axle, but you need to consider the short comings.

 

As for the Dakota axles, the early ones are the 27 Spl variety. the later ones are the wrong 6lug rims. Not a real option IMHO.

 

The Liberty's 8.25 is a good axle, but its a coil spring setup. Lots of stuff to chop off. Unless its free or really cheap look for a XJ axle. Again, not a worthy consideration IMHO.

 

How close to CT are you? I'll make you a good deal on my Mj D35! Its got new brakes 3:55 gears and a lock rite installed!! :brows: :brows: :brows:

 

CW

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From 1987 on, ALL 4.0L XJs came with 3.07 gears behind the 5-speed manual tranny, and 3.55 gears behind the automatic. That's what will be in the Country Edition XJ you found. I believe the Country Edition was only available with automatic, so the axle will be geared with 3.55s.

 

The Trac-Lok is a decent, clutch-type limited slip. Those Ford Explorer axles that have a traction device also used a limited slip. Might even be the same one; if not, it's very similar.

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