mvusse Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 Great thing about donor vehicles is that you get bonus parts, like spring plates ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 :agree: but its a xj tho so still don't work for him Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 I'm using XJ spring plates on my truck, and weld on shock mounts on the axle. That way I could put the shock mounts at exactly the height I wanted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 oh thats a fail for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 oh thats a fail for me HUH??? Whats this mean? CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACKED88 Posted November 3, 2009 Author Share Posted November 3, 2009 Great thing about donor vehicles is that you get bonus parts, like spring plates ;) Yeah, and everything else that comes between tha bumpers.I think for as little perches cost it'd be easier to work with new ones. I've seen some of those universal weld on shock mounts while searching for MJ plates (without any luck) and am considering going that route as well. There again, instead of cutting off and re-using the XJ mounts, tha new weld ons would be easier to work with. Did any of you see my question in the classifieds on the CJ and YJ rear plates? If not .......... Can anybody tell me what the difference is in MJ plates compaired 76-86 CJ and 87-95 YJ rear plates? Actually, nevermind what tha difference is. All I need to know is if either will work for me? Fixin to leave to go meet comanche09 and pick up my 8.25. More L8R!!! Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 I have a set from JKS on mine. IMHO WAY better then stock or many others out there.. If I did it all over I would do a UBolt flip.... CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACKED88 Posted November 3, 2009 Author Share Posted November 3, 2009 Fabbing a set of shock mounts is a no brainer. Looks like you used a pc of square tubing split in half. I was considering doing tha same thing using some thick wall trailer hitch receiver material. Gotta go. Matt (comanche09) is waitin on me and its a half hour drive. I'll be bock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 Fabbing a set of shock mounts is a no brainer. Looks like you used a pc of square tubing split in half. I was considering doing tha same thing using some thick wall trailer hitch receiver material. Gotta go. Matt (comanche09) is waitin on me and its a half hour drive. I'll be bock. YUP!! Then I added a "HELP" shelf shock mount!! I have done this on a number of axles. I have even made a few for guys here on the board!! I neede d just a bit more legnth on my MJ so a coupel short pieces of "C" channel added to the existing mounts worked very nicely!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACKED88 Posted November 3, 2009 Author Share Posted November 3, 2009 Fabbing a set of shock mounts is a no brainer. Looks like you used a pc of square tubing split in half. I was considering doing tha same thing using some thick wall trailer hitch receiver material. Gotta go. Matt (comanche09) is waitin on me and its a half hour drive. I'll be bock. YUP!! Then I added a "HELP" shelf shock mount!! I have done this on a number of axles. I have even made a few for guys here on the board!! I neede d just a bit more legnth on my MJ so a coupel short pieces of "C" channel added to the existing mounts worked very nicely!! CW Now see, there ya go stealin my ideas again. :fs1: LOL!!! I thought about channel too. I'd keep me from having to split tha square tubing. I was thinkin I'd use 3"x 2" x 1/4" material. One pc cut 3 1/2" long to be weld horizontally to the axle and another pc of undertermined lenghth to be welded vertically for drop if needed. (although I don't think I'll need tha drops for tha kind of wheelin I do.) Plannin to fab me some tortion bar drops. They'll be made outa 4"x 2"x 1/4" channel. I met with Matt and picked up the 8.25. Really nice guy. Gave me an unbeatable deal on the axle. Drum to drum plus lines and cables for $100 bucks. He even threw in tha front driveshaft I had previously told him I wanted but decided to wait on. What more can I say other than Thanks Matt!!! I really appreciate what you did for me. Robert OK guys, James (CRF136N) has offer to pick me up some MJ plates at his local j/y and ship um to me. In a nutshell, Are using MJ plates tha best way for me to mount shocks on my SOA set-up? I'm not talkin ease of instalation although it is appealing. I'm talkin whats gonna be tha best set-up? Stock MJ's or some fashion of weld ons weather store bought or home grown? If it matters, I don't really wanna have to mount um under my axle. I prefer tha clean look of haveing just the u-bolts under it. Although I don't 4 wheel very hard, another consideration would be if my travel would be limited too much having the MJ plates mounted on top of the axle. Yall should already know where I'm going with this. What would you do??? One more consideration, what about if later I decide to lower this thing about 2 inches. In other words, go back to a SUA set-up and then add back say 3-4 inches of lift. Oh hell, let me find out how much he thinks they'll cost. Shipping can't be that bad so I may go ahead and git um weather I use um or not. (just in case) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 I dunno what's "best." I know using the stock plates and flipping them side-for-side will preserve the original shock geometry and allow you to run factory-length shocks. That would be my choice, but I'm not a hard-core wheeler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACKED88 Posted November 3, 2009 Author Share Posted November 3, 2009 I dunno what's "best." I know using the stock plates and flipping them side-for-side will preserve the original shock geometry and allow you to run factory-length shocks. That would be my choice, but I'm not a hard-core wheeler.Neither am I. (a hard core wheeler) I'm thinkin stock geometry would be fine for the wheeling I do. (a few muddy ruts and pot holes) Tha way I see it, its been doin tha job for most drivers under moderate conditions for years and will likely continue to do so for me. What tha heck. I'll try um. Thanks for tha help. Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 oh thats a fail for me HUH??? Whats this mean? CW it means I'm a complete idiot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 oh thats a fail for me HUH??? Whats this mean? CW it means I'm a complete idiot Thats not true.. your smart enough to have found us!! Just look at everthing you have learned here from all your brothers on CC!!! :yes: :clapping: :waving: :brows: :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACKED88 Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 I finally recieved a couple of pics of that 89 Limited I told yall I was inquiring about for a parts doner. From what I can tell in tha pics, it actually looks pretty good other than the apparent faded paint. With the exception of tha paint it almost looks too good to part out. I had expected it to be sunk in tha mud on 4 flat tires and covered with leaves and mildew. Apparently I was wrong. Even tha leather seats look good. Might have to do as suggested by getting it running and re-sell it. I know you can't tell by lookin at a pic, but I wonder if that trailer hitch it has is that of a factory trailering package??? (gonna piss me off if it has a tow package with a 44 after just buying that 8.25) Note .... I got a feeling it doesnt actually look as good as it does it that pic. Notice tha fact that he took tha pic on the shaddy side as to not show all tha fading and oxidation like tha back hatch obviously has. Yeah, I went back and blew up tha pic. No way I'm paintin tha thing just to make it sellable. Its a $500 dollar parts vehicle that I only intend to spend about $350 on. OK, but $400 is tops. Gonna email him again to set up a time to see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACKED88 Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 oh thats a fail for me HUH??? Whats this mean? CW it means I'm a complete idiot Thats not true.. your smart enough to have found us!! Just look at everthing you have learned here from all your brothers on CC!!! :yes: :clapping: :waving: :brows: :D I disagree. You can tell just by lookin at his avitar that tha guy is definately an idiot ................ for turning what looks like a nice MJ into a lawn mower shed??? :nuts: :nuts: :nuts: LMAO!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACKED88 Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 OK boys, This 8.25 I just bought doent have any kind of spring loaded clutch plates hence no "traction lock". Without having a t/l, are both axles gonna get power? Tha reason I ask is because when I turn tha yoke only the right axle turns. We've all seen cars/trucks that'll burn tha rubber off tha right tire but never even break tha left loose. don't tell me I'm only gonna have a 3 wheel drive truck unless I spend a bunch of money replacing tha guts in this axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Silly man.... :shake: EVERY 4WD out there with open diffs is really only a 2WD!!!! The ONLY way to have BOTH tires on a given axle get power 100% of the time is to LOCK them. IE spool or Lincoln locker. Like I tried to explain to you back on pg4. :doh: The factory LS diffs (trac-loc) are not so great and should never make a difference in price or buying a used axle. For the most part, by the time any of us buys one (used) they are just that... used up!! :roll: Yea they can be rebuilt but WHY??? For the time, effort and expense its time to just up grade!! Open diffs with spin EITHER tire, not just right rear. Its simply a matter of weight distribution. Which ever tire has LESS weight, or is EASIER to spin will get the traction. That's just the way it is for a "one leg" or "open" rear axle. Even a LS no matter who makes it will be defeated if you lift one time off the ground. All power will go to wheel that is easiest to spin. Lockers, apply power to each side equally, regardless if there is any traction or not. Many lockers, like detroit's or loc0rites will allow "biasing" between the sides as long as minimal power is applied to them. That's the "clicking" that is herd in corners. The "dog teeth" over ride each other. In a turn the inside wheel is making a smaller radius than the out side. So it must spin at a different rate of speed than the other one. As far having you having 3WD, :huh???: unless your running a locked axle up front, that axle will only have power to one tire at any one time. The thing is, there is allot more weight over the front axle, so, combined with a open rear axle, its usually enough to get things moving. Its considered 4WD as the engine, combined with the T-case, can put power to any of the vehicles four tires, just not at the same time.... :D (Unless you lock them) CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 In the offroading world, the open diff is usually preferred over the posi. "Why", you ask? Because now you can buy a "lunchbox" locker and install it in place of the spider gears. :D They are 2-3 hundred bux and a couple hours of your time. Look into the Aussie locker. They are the newest and arguably the best of the cheapie lockers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 I agree with what CW said, but just want to point out one thing to diffuse the confusion before it starts. In 4wd, you still send an equal amount of power to rear and the front. So you still have to be turning two tires. It can't just send all the power to one. It might be both lefts, both rights, or one of each, but the combined speed of the front tires have to equal the combined speed of the rear tires. Unless you have a 242. But wheeling in full time isn't exactly a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 engine power will seek out the path of least resistance, in this case, the tire with the least traction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 In normal driving on a dry road, when your driveshaft turns it sends power to both sides equally, but if one tire hits say a patch of ice, that tire will then get all the power due to its lesser resistance. So normal driving in 4wd will have equal power to all 4 wheels, it just all other types of driving that gives us the need for an open diff for smooth comfortable driving especially around corners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACKED88 Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 Got it. Tha 4x4 system seems to work surprizingly well in my sons 96 ZJ. We've crawled through mud and ruts in that thing that I though surely we were gonna git stuck in. I guess I need to wait and see how well this truck does once I have a 4x4 tranny and t/c in it. Speaking of, did yall see tha pics (at tha bottom of pg 6) of that 89 Limited I want for parts? If not, go back and take a peak at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 If it's as clean as it looks, I'd say fix and sell. Yeah XJs are great for parts, but ones that nice should be saved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 In the offroading world, the open diff is usually preferred over the posi. "Why", you ask? Because now you can buy a "lunchbox" locker and install it in place of the spider gears. :D They are 2-3 hundred bux and a couple hours of your time. Look into the Aussie locker. They are the newest and arguably the best of the cheapo lockers. Correction, a "POSI" is short for positraction, a Chevy term referring to a limited slip differential. Track-loc is a ford/jeep name for the same kind of LS differential. But open is open, nothing for additional traction. 99% of the "lunchbox" lockers out there need this open carrier to fit into. They will not fit a LS carrier. Here is some reading.. http://www.nagca.com/grandtech/carriers ... ndmore.htm CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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