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Upgrading the Dana 30 – need advice…


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FWIW.....

 

I bought a Waggy 44 (LP) for $58. 4340 alloy shafts (used) with CTMs for $400. Open carrier for $50 and a mini spool for $50. Gears for $100. I cut my brackets myself and turned the knucles as well as cut off the leaf purch casting that comes on the Waggy 44. One could have grabbed a HP44 axle housing at a yard for about $100 more but I didn't have the cash at the time.

 

Since the 44 has locking hubs the spool doesn't effect me and I have 30 spline inner shafts for my time to fab it up and at a low cost of $660. I am building a rear 60 to match the front bolt pattern and 35 spline shafts for very little as well.

 

Right now I am waiting for a deal on D44 flat top knuckles as I have already bought high steer arms for $60 (used).

 

The reason I mention this is for a FAR less money than you have been quoted, you could build better if you can muster up the skills and the deals. I realy hate seeing people dumping that much money on the Dana 30.

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Got two quotes:

 

The first: TrueTrac at $595 with a total of $1,085 which includes parts, bearing kit and labor. New axles (27 spline) would be another $622.

 

The second was $1,650 all included out the door.

 

I've seen the TrueTrac advertised on-line for about $400.

 

 

How much to upgrade to a selectable locker? Maybe the one that's a posi when not locked?

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What size tires/type of wheeling?

 

Street use too, or do you just use 4wd when off road?

 

 

 

A lock right + upgrading to later axle shafts (+ carrying spares) is a good compromise that doesn't usually uncover the other, tougher to fix weaknesses of the D30

(small internals = weak lockers, R&P strength, tube/knuckle strength, etc).

 

I did the above (+ gears), then later went to alloy shafts.

At the time, I considered 30 spline's, but at some point the ring & pinion is gonna become the weak link

(and you don't want to change those on the trail if you can help it).

 

Ultimately I stayed with 27splines, so I could keep my old ones as spares.

 

Going to a Waggy 44 is a good option too, but I like having everything use the same 5 on 4.5" bolt patturn (easier to swap tires from one Jeep to another).

 

 

FWIW, generally speaking, if you need 30 spline shafts (in a D30), for what you do,

you probably won't be happy with a True-Trac anyway.

 

It's a good LSD, but 'loose' enough that 27' splines should survive almost any sane (D30) use with it.

 

Also,

It's your money,

but $1600+ is alot of coin to spend on a D30.

(though it is your money :thumbsup: )

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I wouldent spend to much $$ on a 30 but they are solid little axles , unless your going to a HP44 your not gaining to much from going to a LP44 . you loose clearance with the LP and don't gain a super amount of strength .

Truss the long side of the 30 , get a aussy locker and some alloy shafts ( or 297 shafts from a abs xj ) and call it a day

if you have a cad you have other options too . unless you are crazy with the skinny pedal thats all you really need .

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the main problem i've run into when wheeling a D30 hasnt been any breakages, but wearing stuff out.

 

the hub assemblies are the weak link in my experience, and running 35s will wear them out quickly. the only fix for that is the warn hub conversions at 1300 dollars and then you have to run a bigger bolt pattern if you want to have the big bearings.

 

FWIW its a great axle, just make sure to jack it up and check wheelbearing play at each oil change.

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Wow I wheel my D30 and it is a kinda proven formula, and no where near 1600. BUy a set of ALLOY USA shafts, and upgrade to the 760 u-joints. Through a lock right/aussie up front, add some 1/4 LCA skids, truss the lond side if you want, then wheel. As for the unit bearing issue.. buy the one with the lifetime warranty and keep exchanging them. D30 can live for a long time with proper maintence.

 

Also for the price you are talking.. you might not be that far off fron a used d44 Rubicon front axle.

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I wouldent spend to much $$ on a 30 but they are solid little axles , unless your going to a HP44 your not gaining to much from going to a LP44 . you loose clearance with the LP and don't gain a super amount of strength .

 

Overall clearance from a HP and a LP 44 is identical. The driveline is better protected with a HP and one should adjust the pinion angle on the LP fairly high.

 

As far as strength goes no one has ever proven that a LP44 is nominally stronger than a 30. The main problem with the 30 R&P is flex from the whole axle (you mentioned trying to patch this with a truss). The 44 (regardless of HP or LP) has a way stronger casting that is far superior to the dana 30 that will help prevent the broken R&P problems had on the 30.

 

The other main factor is our engines are too lame to have an issue with a LP44. ;)

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Wow I wheel my D30 and it is a kinda proven formula, and no where near 1600. BUy a set of ALLOY USA shafts, and upgrade to the 760 u-joints. Through a lock right/aussie up front, add some 1/4 LCA skids, truss the lond side if you want, then wheel. As for the unit bearing issue.. buy the one with the lifetime warranty and keep exchanging them. D30 can live for a long time with proper maintence.

 

Also for the price you are talking.. you might not be that far off fron a used d44 Rubicon front axle.

 

Alloy USA stopped doing shafts a year ago when they were bought out.

 

Consider Nitro 4340 shafts these days (same manufacturer as the old Alloy USA stuff).

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i think the bottom of the pumpkin on the 44 hangs down lower then the 30 , HP axles are stronger due to the placement of the pinion on the ring gear .the driveline angle is also better with a HP axle ( the drive shaft and pinion are up and out of the way too ) . i think the outer parts of the 44 are where you get more strength the servicable bearing compared to the unit ones . if you set the pinion angle to hing you start to starve the pinion bearing for oil and get into other problems ( in more extreme cases )

i still think going to a LP 44 is not worth the effort , imho .

Overall clearance from a HP and a LP 44 is identical. The driveline is better protected with a HP and one should adjust the pinion angle on the LP fairly high.

 

As far as strength goes no one has ever proven that a LP44 is nominally stronger than a 30. The main problem with the 30 R&P is flex from the whole axle (you mentioned trying to patch this with a truss). The 44 (regardless of HP or LP) has a way stronger casting that is far superior to the dana 30 that will help prevent the broken R&P problems had on the 30.

 

The other main factor is our engines are too lame to have an issue with a LP44. ;)

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i like my dana 30s. free is a good price if you ask me and i rarely break them.

mine as it is now:

true track

4.56

warn shafts

warn hub kit

currie skids and joints

armored.

 

they are definitly not for everyone but have served me well on 33" tires for many years of wheeling difficult trails and easy ones too.

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i think the bottom of the pumpkin on the 44 hangs down lower then the 30 , HP axles are stronger due to the placement of the pinion on the ring gear .the driveline angle is also better with a HP axle ( the drive shaft and pinion are up and out of the way too ) . i think the outer parts of the 44 are where you get more strength the servicable bearing compared to the unit ones . if you set the pinion angle to hing you start to starve the pinion bearing for oil and get into other problems ( in more extreme cases )

i still think going to a LP 44 is not worth the effort , imho .

 

The 44 dif is physically larger than the Dana 30 dif so yes, there would be better clearance with a 30. THe LP44 and HP44 have the same clearance (identical).

 

Folks are not breaking the low pinion R&P and not the high pinion for that matter. They are breaking a lot of HP30 R&Ps though. For the front a HP R&P on the 44 is stronger than a LP but the ONLY benefit with our weight and limited powerplant by going to a HP 44 is the driveline angle and protection for the front driveline.

 

You cannot starve a low pinion pinion bearing easily and 99% of the folks I know use covers with the high fill plug effectively overfilling the dif.

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