Rocky Road - Comanche Lift Kit

[JeepcoMJ]

longarms only screw up your geometry if you're an idiot who couldn't design them to have proper operating angles.

 

 

longarms take road forces, which at stock height push back on the frame but with short arms and a lift push UP on the frame, and set them back to factory characteristics. they make for better handling, a more comfortable ride, more flexibility.

 

 

based off of your ignorance of longarms as well, I'm going to completely blow off everything you've said about RRO.....you have no idea what you are talking about.

 

 

 

moral of the story, don't buy RRO regardless. it's not a complete kit, what it lacks is what you need the most, and what it has you can buy for cheaper and better. I know of only one person who is happy with RRO....mnkyboy

[mnkyboy]

If you bend the long arms to correct geometry wouldnt you have accomplished the same thing as the drop brackets, so what makes the long arms better if its doing the same thing?

 

You don't have to be a fool,the MJ/XJ suspension is fairly new to me but I'm far from ignorant.

 

I have a tube bender and could make my own long arms but the reading ive done says that the drop kit with adj arms will handle better on road.

 

And yes i am happy with my lift,it rides well works pretty good off road and i can upgrade it as i go.

 

What "complete" kit is cheaper and better? i have about $650 in my lift with shipping and long travel shocks. from what ive seen i can add the drop kit and arms or the long arms and still be way under other kits?

[james750]

The drop brackets do help on road driving, but not as much as long arms will. Long arms give a better angle just as the drop brackets do but with the longarms you can have a higher lift with less affect on the angle of the arms, so that when you hit bumps your truck isn't pushing upward on the control arms, instead of strait forward (truck trying to run over its axle is the best way I can describe it). Drop brackets are a cheap solution to avoiding longarms. Yes, they are better than just short arms alone. No, they are not as good as long arms. Longarms also allow for much more flex both upward and downward than any short arm setup. Most people even need limiting straps with longarms because it will flex too much and the coil will pop out or the shock will get damaged due to being too far extended. Short arms limit flex because once it gets to to steep of an angle, the lower arms will hit the shock bracket and stop moving.

 

Rocky road calls their kit complete but it isn't. So almost any other kit will be more expensive but will also be more complete. As for the price, we were talking about RRO and MOR's Bolt on SOA setup compared to doing SOA the right way. It is in fact cheaper, stronger, and better to do an SOA setup the right way.

 

We aren't trying to be a$$holes about it either. Just trying to clarify some ignorance with brutal honesty. As with all brutal honesty, it can sometimes be more brutal than honest.

[mnkyboy]

My point on the SOA brakets is they are not junk and are a good alternative to the weld on perches, especially if your not building a wheeler. they are easy to install and anyone can install them at home.

 

about the long arms,the stuff I'm reading says opposite but after more research I'm seeing they are compairing straight long arms which seem pretty common.

I can see how the bent arms would help fix geometry but then i was reading of some of theses arms having clearance issues like the drop brackets do.

 

so maybe when telling some one to buy long arm it needs to be clarified.

 

Looks to me that drop brackets are better then straight long arms on the road,but straight long arms are better off road then the brackets making the bent long arms the best of both worlds. would this be correct?

 

 

Seems that all my kit is missing is the arms,I'm at $650 and complete kits seem to be $1700+

so by doing the RRO lift then adding arms i should be saving alot of money over buying a full kit. I figure if after i finish the front if I'm having issues with the pinion angle i will remove the SOA bolts cut off the alignment tabs and weld them on but so far everything looks good.

 

The RRO kit seems to be a good value to get started or for the average person that wants a lift but don't really wheel their truck it could be a complete kit. For normal off road driving i can't see were you would have any problems with it they way it comes, as i abuse the crap out of it with no trouble.

[ScottyDog]

To the OP Scotty...

 

When I did my SOA, I got the MORE perches and had Hellbilly weld them on after we set the pinion angle. Billy's in HB, so he's not too far from you.

 

Whats up Johnny... Yeah we finally got the MJ street/Fwy worthy. Now the kid wants to lift it. Fruit don't fall far from the tree....

[Darren]

about the long arms,the stuff I'm reading says opposite but after more research I'm seeing they are compairing straight long arms which seem pretty common.

I can see how the bent arms would help fix geometry but then i was reading of some of theses arms having clearance issues like the drop brackets do.

 

so maybe when telling some one to buy long arm it needs to be clarified.

 

Where are you reading this at?

 

Drop brackets are essentially are poor-mans long-arm. But the trade off for price is a loss of ground clearance. Since you are currently running stock control arms by the time you add up adjustable uppers and lower, and drop brackets, you could buy long-arms and have beer money left over still.

[JeepcoMJ]

james, don't steal my thunder. I AM trying to be a fool :thumbsup: :rotfl2:

 

mnkyboy,

 

your geometry is way wrong.

 

 

bending a long arm is going to do nothing but gain you ground clearance.

 

the point of a long arm is that the mounting points (let's call them A...axle side, and B....body side) are further apart than with the factory short arms.

 

 

the point of a control arm (other than keeping the axle on and centered) is to transfer road forces from point A to point B. the goal is to transfer it back along the frame rails, rather than up into them. at stock height to mild lift (mild being less than 2"), they do this fairly well.

 

however, as lift increases, they act in the opposite way of what they were designed for...i.e. transfering road forces from A to B and up into the frame rail rather than back along it. this makes for a bumpy ride.

 

the reason that you want road forces transferred rearward, is that the entire length of the frame rail takes the stress. by the whole frame taking stress, less forces are sent directly up and into the driver area, which makes the bumps less noticeable.

 

 

there are no differences in the transfer of road forces from point A to point B in a bent vs. straight long arm. as stated, the only benefit is ground clearance. long arms decrease the angle from point A to point B and allow transfer of said road forces to flow as it is supposed to...back along the frame rail, not up

 

as for piecing together a lift...

 

RC 6.5" coils run roughly $130 to $160, depending on how good you are at getting deals, what kind of sales they are having, etc.

RC fully adjustable 4.5" to 6.5" upper and lower control arms run $350 to most, but again, depending on how well you know people, you can get them for $300.

RC adjustable 6.5" track bar is right around $120. again, same thing as the previous two

1995 YJ front brake hoses (quite a bit longer than stock) are $50

early 90's dodge dakota rear brake hose is around $25

spring perches around $25

Ubolts around $40

having perches welded is around $50, but free/case of beer if you know a cool local who can do it

 

for rear shocks you can re-use your factory rear shock plates, modified to be between the spring perch and the spring (of course you will need a longer center bolt for your rear springs, to keep it from hopping). this allows you to retain stock rear shocks....not ideal, but easy to upgrade to a different mounting system at a later date.

 

the spring plate to go above the rear springs can be had out of any cherokee at the junkyard for next to nothing, or free from someone like me with tons of parts...I'm sure you have a local or someone closer to you who can accomodate

 

RC front shocks are around $70 to $100 depending on which ones you get

 

so that puts us at $884 at most, and the kit is DONE on the first try. no real need (other than addiction) to alter it. it's complete, finished, with every aspect of the lift taken account for. The only upgrade from here that should be done is extended bumpstops and maybe a better rear shock setup in the future. However, it will ride well enough and be perfectly useable.

 

So, you're at $650 with perfectly functional rear SOA bolt-on plates (as stated, functional but less than ideal), a set of shocks, I'm guessing a track bar, front coils, and brake hoses?

 

...

 

for another $234 you could have been done already. you're gonna dump another $250 into control arm drops and have yet another thing to hang on. not to mention that the only place which makes braces for MJ drop brackets produces braces and brackets that don't even fit right, and have poor customer service.

 

*shrug* to each his own....but from those of us who have been there, done that, it sure is nice having about $300 invested in a 6.5" lift using a little time, inginuity, and some cheap, used parts.

[mnkyboy]

Isnt the point in having a flat control arm to send the energy up to the springs and shocks not the frame.

 

the long arms put your suspension at an angle sending the energy into the frame rails instead of the suspension.

 

i would think that with the drop brackets you would direct the energy upward to your springs/shocks instead of back into the frame creating a smoother ride on the road.

 

 

here's what i got for $650

Old Man Emu front springs

Bolton SOA spring pads

Rear Brake Line Extension

Parking Brake Extension

Front Adjustable Track bar

Proportioning valve riser kit

Ubolt hardware pack & replacement mounting kit

Swaybar relocation kit

long travel shocks

 

now the drop kit and adjustable upper/lower arms is $523 this only puts me under $1200 with shipping which is alot cheaper then any full kit. If i go without the drop kit as you suggest I'm still under $1000 total for a complete matched kit instead of peicing something together.

 

have you installed anything from rocky road? I have and havent had problems with things not fitting.

 

Also i have contacted them before and thier customer service is fine.

[Automan2164]

Not to kick this any further, but you could have just got a kick a$$ kit from rubicon express for $1200. With EVERYTHING you need.

 

http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Jeep/MJ/P ... art=RE6500

 

All the engineering is done. Just bolt the (female dog) on.

 

Rob L.

[james750]

Isnt the point in having a flat control arm to send the energy up to the springs and shocks not the frame.

 

the long arms put your suspension at an angle sending the energy into the frame rails instead of the suspension.

 

i would think that with the drop brackets you would direct the energy upward to your springs/shocks instead of back into the frame creating a smoother ride on the road.

 

 

 

Also i have contacted them before and their customer service is fine.

There ain't no way in hell your gonna send the energy we are talking about into your springs unless you are going in reverse! :rotfl2:

Coils/Shocks only absorb upward and downward force.

We aren't talking about upward force/travel here, we are talking about forces trying to shove your axle backwards into your frame, the forces that the control arms take and avoid. If there weren't these forces there would be no reason for control arms. Think of it this way, what would happen if you didn't have control arms in your truck and you decided to drive it forward? The axle would be shoved backwards off the springs. This is the force that the frame must absorb, if the control arms are pushing upwards, that force has about 3 inches of frame rail to diffuse, the rest of the force is transferred to the driver compartment; if these forces have the entire 100" or so frame (length depending on LWB or SWB, but according to RRO it is the same) so there is very little that is transferred to the driver compartment. Drop brackets will push the force both upward and back into the frame leading to a result between a short arm and long arm. Its not rocket science. It should be obvious that there is more than just upward and downward force in a suspension system. There is up, down, side to side, and back/forward forces to deal with. and because coil springs are flimsy and uncontrollable unlike leaf springs, we must use CONTROL arms to CONTROL the forces of the road against the axle. Just in case you were wondering, the track bar controls the side to side forces of the axle.

 

No, their customer service is not fine, they have no idea what they are talking about, Customer Service is supposed to be knowledgeable on their own products, and know to a point the vehicles that they are trying to sell parts for.

[mnkyboy]

if your control arms are flat it takes less force to push the wheels over something then if they are at an angle.

 

this ---O is less stress then this \

.......................................O

 

Ive been reading a bit on other forums about long arm vs arm drop brackets w/adj arms and most people seem to like either about the same, looks to be a matter of opinion more then ones better.

 

now your theory of just using the RC adjustable arms without the drop brakets looks to be far inferior to either set up.

 

 

AUTOMAN the problem with that lift is when I'm done for a little less money i will have about the same thing but with adj arms instead of fixed arms.

[whowey]

Several years ago I ordered from RRO twice. Two bad experiences were enough to convince me to NEVER do business with them again...

 

Their quick disconnects.. certainly aren't. The square design makes them hard to line up and reattach unless you are on perfectly level ground..

 

Second... their customer service and order packers can't tell the difference between leaf spring bushings and control arm bushings....

 

Mnky.. I realize you are a RRO fanboi... but for the same money... I'd rather have the lift without the half-assed crap like brake line relocators and prop-valve risers. That mickey mouse crap belongs on cheap @$$ lifts like Rusty's or Rough Crap.

[james750]

if your control arms are flat it takes less force to push the wheels over something then if they are at an angle.

 

this ---O is less stress then this \

.......................................O

 

Ive been reading a bit on other forums about long arm vs arm drop brackets w/adj arms and most people seem to like either about the same, looks to be a matter of opinion more then ones better.

 

now your theory of just using the RC adjustable arms without the drop brakets looks to be far inferior to either set up.

 

 

AUTOMAN the problem with that lift is when I'm done for a little less money i will have about the same thing but with adj arms instead of fixed arms.

:shake:

 

You get what you pay for comes to mind here. It is not even a matter of opinion at this point, Longarms do perform better than drop brackets in any and all aspects from on road to off road performance. Drop brackets do not have as much flex, do not ride as well on the road, lower your ground clearance, and are considered a cheap fix by most people. I would take short arms with no drop brackets over drop brackets because of the clearance issues.

[mnkyboy]

I'm not a RRO fan boy. I'm just saying i have yet to have any problems with them or their products.

 

your feed back on the disconnects is good to know,i eventually want to get some but not sure were yet. i may just make them.

 

I don't mind if some one has tried something and didnt like it then voiced there opinion.

 

 

James750 thats your opinion,i did alot of reading on the subject and it seems pretty divided.

I found alot of XJ owners like the brackets and some had went from the brackets to long arms and noted little if any improvement,some said they drove onroad/offroad the same with either set up.

 

as for clearance issues from what i read its only an issue coming down onto ledges, but most people don't experience any problems with the brackets, i did find alot of complaints of long arms getting stuck on stuff though.

[JeepcoMJ]

Isnt the point in having a flat control arm to send the energy up to the springs and shocks not the frame. nope. not even close. besides, you DON'T want a flat control arm. there needs to be upward angle, or road forces WILL be directed straight up to your coils and shocks....resulting in rapid failure

 

the long arms put your suspension at an angle sending the energy into the frame rails instead of the suspension. correct

 

i would think that with the drop brackets you would direct the energy upward to your springs/shocks instead of back into the frame creating a smoother ride on the road.

you thought wrong

 

 

here's what i got for $650

Old Man Emu front springs decent

Bolton SOA spring pads halfass and expensive

Rear Brake Line Extension WAY redneck, just plain stupid, and more effort than they're worth. you got charged for something that would literally take 5 minutes and a quick coat of paint to make

Parking Brake Extension unnecessary...I've never run into p-brake issues that couldn't be fixed with just unmounting them from their factory center tie-downs

Front Adjustable Track bar I'm surprised this is included

Proportioning valve riser kit wasted time and effort....most prop. valves on MJs havent functioned in years

Ubolt hardware pack & replacement mounting kit ooooh. short for ubolts and spring plates

Swaybar relocation kit halfass OK for a first-timer, but frankly it's worth the $50 for RC quick disconnects

long travel shocks also probably cheapos

 

now the drop kit and adjustable upper/lower arms is $523 this only puts me under $1200 with shipping which is alot cheaper then any full kit. If i go without the drop kit as you suggest I'm still under $1000 total for a complete matched kit instead of peicing something together.

 

have you installed anything from rocky road? I have and havent had problems with things not fitting.

 

Also i have contacted them before and thier customer service is fine.

 

 

as james750 says

control arms control rearward/forward forces, trackbar controls side to side force, and the shocks/coils control upward/downward force.

 

when working together, they're making a smooth ride.

 

I have not and never will install anything from Rocky Road. I (sorry to say this but...unlike you) have done many modifications to cherokees/comanches, and recognize chintzy crap lifts when I see them...rough country is the cheapest lift I would go, but to be honest I would go with Rubicon express any day of the week if I could afford it.

 

BTW,

my front coils came off of a previous project but cost me $100 new (know RC dealer...got at his cost less as a scratch was on it)

control arms I bought new...$300 shipped. spoke directly to jason @ RC and he gave me a paying naxja member discount

track bar I bought used...RE with heim upper joint for $60

brake lines (front and rear) were $70 all told. asked for a discount at advance, and they gave me a discount

RC shocks I bought the front ones for $70, rear were free from a local jeeper. I've since upgraded to a set of edelbrock extreme remote IAC shocks which were $270 shipped

spring perches I got from a jeeper for $5

used a set of chryco 8.25 cherokee rear spring plates for my dana 44, they were free from my scrap pile

ubolts were $38

swaybar discos were used RC discos from 89eliminator...$20. IDK what I'm running now...I took them out because they got worn and loud so now there's just a set of nondisco RC's in it which I will modify

 

that's $665 for the original lift, and with the new shocks it's $935. Mind you however that the RC coils and front shocks were used on a previous project which I sold for more than I had invested, so that negates $170 worth of cost. seems like I'm ahead of the game...

[JeepcoMJ]

if your control arms are flat it takes less force to push the wheels over something then if they are at an angle.

 

this ---O is less stress then this \

.......................................O

 

Ive been reading a bit on other forums about long arm vs arm drop brackets w/adj arms and most people seem to like either about the same, looks to be a matter of opinion more then ones better.

read up more then try concepts and ideas to get a basic understanding of geometrical function and directional forces. it's a matter of fact. of course each has it's ups and downs, but longarms have more ups than downs

 

now your theory of just using the RC adjustable arms without the drop brakets looks to be far inferior to either set up.

 

 

AUTOMAN the problem with that lift is when I'm done for a little less money i will have about the same thing but with adj arms instead of fixed arms. not even close to true. you can't argue with quality....and RRO does not have ANY product on the same standard as RE

 

as for my *theory* about RC adjustable control arms...

 

is it ideal? no.

is it better than drop brackets?

ride-wise, no...trail-wise, yes.

is it better than longarms? no. longarms are the biggest improvement you can make on the ride, flex, and overall performance of our unibody vehicles

 

BTW, this isn't *theory*. it's pretty much what I'm running, save a few mods

 

they were cheap, functional. they actually flex way more than you would think. so much so that with 6.5" of lift and trimmed fenders, I was able to wreck a good set of 33x10.50's by flexing them into the fenders and cutting straight to the belts.

 

I just bent my front axle offroading (that was fun BTW) and so I'm trussing up a new one.

 

at the same time, I am removing some of the angle of the short arms by relocating the axle-side control arm mounts up by 2.5". at the same time, I'm also raising the coil buckets by 1". that will cut my operating angles down (albeit minorly) to the angle of a 5" lift, while giving me around 7.5" of lift.

 

remember, my aftermarket adjustable arms are longer than your factory arms so my angle is less severe then yours...thus it is a better ride quality.

 

add my nice edelbrock remote reservoir shocks on (cost was $270 for all 4, but it is normally $239/shock. love those closeout deals!), and I don't hardly feel the negative effects of short arms even at 6.5" operating angles.

 

 

putting together a lift kit is all about asking questions, and understanding concepts properly...then shopping around instead of buying the first thing you see

[JeepcoMJ]

I'm not a RRO fan boy. I'm just saying i have yet to have any problems with them or their products.

 

your feed back on the disconnects is good to know,i eventually want to get some but not sure were yet. i may just make them.

 

I don't mind if some one has tried something and didnt like it then voiced there opinion.

then you shouldn't mind someone who's screwed up/screwed around with enough lift kits and combinations of them telling you that the RRO kit is a pile of crap

 

James750 thats your opinion,i did alot of reading on the subject and it seems pretty divided.

I found alot of XJ owners like the brackets and some had went from the brackets to long arms and noted little if any improvement,some said they drove onroad/offroad the same with either set up.

yeah, but here's the difference....it's easier to put a complete drop bracket kit on a cherokee. cause companies that are actually worth their while make complete kits for the xj with bracketry that reinforces the drop bracket. this reinforcement bracket allows for rearward forces to be dissipated through the frame rail. comanche LCA mounts are NOT the same as an XJ's one, and thus this reinforcement bracket is not useable on a comanche.

 

as for clearance issues from what i read its only an issue coming down onto ledges, but most people don't experience any problems with the brackets, i did find alot of complaints of long arms getting stuck on stuff though. maybe you should get out and use your jeep more for what you are trying to build it for, rather than web wheeling. then generate your own opinion?[/quote]

[mnkyboy]

My main point on the RRO stuff is its working fine on my truck and the quality isnt what people make it out to be.

I really can't see from the pics how that RE kit is any better then mine.

it uses fixed arms where I'm gonna do adj arms,it cost a little more then I'm gonna have in mine and doesnt come with shocks. only other difference is it uses a weld in perch instead of my bolt in perch kit and comes with quick disconnects but no sway bar relocation bracket

 

and if you look at the kit contents part you will see this (RE9900 - XJ CONTROL ARM DROP BRACKETS) i sure hope thats a typo.

 

JeepcoMJ on your comments on my lift

"Rear Brake Line Extension WAY redneck, just plain stupid, and more effort than they're worth. you got charged for something that would literally take 5 minutes and a quick coat of paint to make" this BTW is a Extended brake hose not a bracket.

 

"Swaybar relocation kit halfass OK for a first-timer, but frankly it's worth the $50 for RC quick disconnects" RRO says its good to drop the sway bar and move it forward.don't know if its true as ive never ran my MJ without them.

"Once again, a Rocky Road first that really is required. When you lift your Comanche this high, even with sway bar disconnects, the top of your sway bar mounts will push forward INTO your springs. This will cause banging and bumping to no end. Our kit moves the mounting point forward an inch to eliminate this complication."

 

"Parking Brake Extension unnecessary...I've never run into p-brake issues that couldn't be fixed with just unmounting them from their factory center tie-downs" RRO says this is inspector compliant for people who have to mess with that.I would guess the proportioning valve bracket is probably the same deal. this could be good depending were a person lives.

 

"long travel shocks also probably cheapos" i can't remember what brand they are but thay are a name brand OEM type shock,They were $150 for the set and i needed new shocks anyway.

 

 

here's the RRO bracket whats so cheap about it?

 

BTW even though you guys are dicks i am learning from this thread,both from you guys and my own research.I'm not stupid but I'm sure i don't have the same experience with this stuff as some other people on here.

[JeepcoMJ]

I'm going to work, so I don't have much time to dick with this.

 

basically that bracket set DOESN'T FIT RIGHT.

[mnkyboy]

Its hard to believe it doesnt fit right when everything else ive got from them has fit fine.

 

I have seen threads on XJ forums were people have had problems installing other companies drop brackets,maybe drop brackets in general are a pain to install.

 

Here is a link to Jeep reviews feedback page for RRO

http://www.jeepreviews.com/where-to-buy-jeep-accessories/280/rocky-road-outfitters/

most people either love them or hate them. most of the complaints are customer service and shipping related which i can agree thier shipping takes forever. But alot of the people that gave negative feed back also said besides customer service and shipping issues the products they recieved are well built and work good.

[mfpdm]

Wow.

 

I'm not sure what half of you are smoking and where the other half are getting your info from but I must say, a lot of it is just CRAP.

 

Basic principles of the control arms are to keep it in positioned in the wheel well seeing that you no longer have the leaf spring to do it, but that is just part. The lower arms allow up and down travel of the axle. Where all this force absorbtion came from is beyond me. The uppers are for controlling braking and driving force. You no, if they were not there your axle would want to roll forward or backwards. And YES, you want to have your lower control arms as close to horizontal (which if you look at a stock jeep they are ) as possible. This improves ride, handling, and allows more flex (droop).

 

Think of it this way, Your pushing a full wheelbarrow and keeping its handles low (horizontal with the ground) and you hit a bump. The wheel rolls over the bump without much trouble. Now, same situation except this time your handles are inclined and you hit the same bump. OH, what happened. The wheel barrow flipped over because the bump drove the wheel back instead of up.

 

Same thing happens to the front axle. When you increase the angle on the control arms, the force is driving the axle back instead of up.

 

Now the drop brackets help bring the angle back down to stock position (horizontal). Long arms achieve this as well by increasing the length of the arm resulting in a lower angle.

 

Now, back to the OP question, I personally have dealt with RRO and will not again. I have the drop brackets and really like the design and concept, however the quality control is poor. I waited forever to get them and then they sent the wrong hardware. Called one day and they had not made them yet even though they claimed to have 82 of them in stock, and the next day they were shipped two days ago. They lied to me and then tried to make me out as the bad guy. Go look in my build thread "Wrenches Gone WILD" and you can see all the trouble I had with them. If I did it over again, I'd go with REs drop brackets and fab up my own braces.

 

 

:cheers:

[mnkyboy]

I have read your build,nice looking truck. :thumbsup:

 

I did see you had some issues with them,but ive seen on the XJ sites people having issues with other brands of drop brackets as well.

 

I can't find enough people with them to determine if your problems are common or isolated.

everywhere i look i find complaints on customer service and very slow shipping,which i will say it did take about a month to get my lift.

 

But it seems that otherwise most people are usually pretty happy with RRO products,even people who said they would never use them again liked the parts they recieved.

 

I havent had any issues with their customer service, but ive found alot of people that say the opposite.

 

my point on RRO is their products seem to be pretty good and not junk as some people seem to think. My lift went in easy and works well,the parts i got fit correctly and were constructed well.

 

As long as someone isnt in a hurry to get something i don't see an issue with ordering from them.

[whowey]

here's the RRO bracket whats so cheap about it?

 

BTW even though you guys are dicks i am learning from this thread,both from you guys and my own research.I'm not stupid but I'm sure i don't have the same experience with this stuff as some other people on here.

 

 

Thanks for posting a picture of that drop bracket. I wondered if it was an actual Comanche-specific brop bracket or another XJ one, where you have to hack-up the factory reinforcement.

[mnkyboy]

It is comanche specific.

 

check out mfpdm's build "Wrenches Gone WILD" he has some good pics of it in various stages of the install.

[Pete M]

Quality and customer service issues aside, it's still not a "kit" until they include the drop brackets or longer control arms into the package. It's only part of a kit. Stock lower arms should not be used above 2" of lift and stock uppers should not be used above about 4". The arms won't be long enough to center the tire or correct caster.