attaboybob Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 I purchased my 87 Pioneer in April this year. I noticed an extremely dirty air filter - so, I changed it. Then when putting on my lift. I noticed snot looking stuff all along the underside on the drivers side. Well, I have learned it may be called "blowby". The MJ feels sluggish passing and up hills. So, I need help diagnosing the problem. I am also wondering if I may have a clogged catalytic converter. All suggestions are welcome! ...BOB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 You have to pull of the valve/head cover and clean it out to effectivly stop it. And change all the PCV lines ($$) or clean them out if you're cheap. Or so I hear. There's tutorials. I've never bothered - mine isn't too bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cooter Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 Good luck. There are a couple things you can do to clean the PCV system, but true blowby is combustion blowing by your rings. Sticking rings and other things can cause it, but usually "Black death" isn't curable without a rebuild. Do a compression test and a leakdown test to find the true health of your engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 Everything the said above is very true. I have found a way to minimize it, and keep my heap running w/o a total rebuild. I used a 85 CJ7 PVC valve, and grommet. Needless to say remove crappy stock parts and install these into the valve cover. Then where the stock unit connects to the intake, remove that fitting and replace it with a brass air chuck. It will screw right in. The connect the 2 using your favorite type of hose, zip ties or hose clamps. It will not stop the blow by, but it wil help a lil. Total cost under 15 bucks.. You w ill save that much in oil if you drive your rig a lot :shock: :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 A clogged CCV system probably won't affect performance much, if at all. It just dumps oil in your air filter. A clogged catalytic converter robs power, more so at higher RPM. If your truck feels "lazy" the cat is a likely suspect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 25, 2005 Share Posted October 25, 2005 Mine was so bad I gave up trying to cure it and ended up adding a catch bottle to collect the oil. This was the first one: But I found I needed to upgrade it slightly: It's an incredibly common problem with Jeep engines. Sometimes the simple things can cure it, sometimes you just need to work around it. Jeep on! --Pete[/img] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bounty Hunter Posted October 25, 2005 Share Posted October 25, 2005 If you've got oil blowing out the front of the valve cover into the airbox, the CCV system is clogged and working in reverse. The front hose is supposed to pull from the airbox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 25, 2005 Share Posted October 25, 2005 Only up to a point. Mine pushes oil laden gasses out of every port it can. I was going to try a larger vacuum line in an effort to increase the flow, but decided that there was so much oil coming out along with the gasses, that it was better to find a way to capture it rather than let it foul up the system. Hopefully his engine just needs a cleaning. 8) Jeep on! --Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cooter Posted October 25, 2005 Share Posted October 25, 2005 Why is everyone so afraid of a compression/leakdown test?? It is the best way to check the health of your rings/valves, and much better than guessing at cures. High mileage engines get blowby- it isn't an Jeep Only thing. It is best to figure out how worn your rings are without blaming it on the way the crankcase is ventilated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 25, 2005 Share Posted October 25, 2005 My compression test averaged about 120psi or so with all the cylinders being roughly the same. Not as bad as I thought it would be, but not all that great either. Jeep on! --Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cooter Posted October 29, 2005 Share Posted October 29, 2005 Thank goodness. I thought I was the only one left who uses a compression tester. Makes me feel old(er) :? Didja do a leakdown to see if it was just rings? (Doesn't sound like it since they are all down together, but....) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whowey Posted October 29, 2005 Share Posted October 29, 2005 I did a compression test on my MJ. About 125 on 1-5, about 120 on 6. So well within the 75 % standard. I don't have a leakdown tester. So its just keep the oil bottle in there like Pete, and keep with the empty/refill cycle for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 30, 2005 Share Posted October 30, 2005 I merely wanted to make sure there wasn't anything drastically wrong with any one of the cylinders in mine. I don't really need to know if the rings are bad (I'm pretty sure they are shot), I won't be tearing that block down anytime soon. I have another that will be going in as soon as I can afford the kit and machine work. Jeep on! --Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanchedude Posted October 31, 2005 Share Posted October 31, 2005 All the other suggestions outstanding, You can try a product that works well it is called "engine restore" and it will help seal up the piston rings due to wear try it and you should feel an improvment in power and a reduction in cylinder blowby,I have used it for years on older engines and have noticed the improvment everytime In normal driving, friction and wear cut scratches in the metal surfaces inside every car's engine. This causes compression and power loss and increases oil consumption as cars get older. Restore Engine Restorer fills these scratches and improves the seal between piston rings and cylinder walls. This means better compression and more balanced compression across all cylinders. Independent road tests prove Restore brings back power to near original levels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whowey Posted October 31, 2005 Share Posted October 31, 2005 All the other suggestions outstanding, You can try a product that works well it is called "engine restore" and it will help seal up the piston rings due to weartry it and you should feel an improvment in power and a reduction in cylinder blowby,I have used it for years on older engines and have noticed the improvment everytime In normal driving, friction and wear cut scratches in the metal surfaces inside every car's engine. This causes compression and power loss and increases oil consumption as cars get older. Restore Engine Restorer fills these scratches and improves the seal between piston rings and cylinder walls. This means better compression and more balanced compression across all cylinders. Independent road tests prove Restore brings back power to near original levels Is that stuff, kinda a bluish-green color? If its the stuff I'm thinking of, it plays hell with the oil pressure sender that Comanches with gauges rather than idiot lights use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cooter Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 Basically there is graphite in it, it is an old trick that has been used for years. The problem is it tends to clog the minor passages in your oil filter. Here's a little light reading for anyone thinking about miricle additives- Clicky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanchedude Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 well: my recomendation was not to start some debate ,it was to offer a soulution I don't know why some feel its importaint to start a debate in this type of fourm? Actually is contains "CSL" COPPER ,SILVER ,LEAD (if you know about this product you would know this) graphite is not in this product and would not help seal rings as graphite is just a lubricant it does not cause any problems with my Comanche oil gauge or any other viecical I have used it on also it will not clog anything as the particals are smaller than the media can trap. As for you link it does not address this type of product. (more directed at ptfe) I simply suggested a product that has worked for me to improve the compression on old engines and help the blowby. I don't claim to be an expert on the subject of oil additives and would not take some web site as the ""word" on the subject either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cooter Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 ...and your information reads like it came off the side of the bottle :roll: I won't even get into what graphite is used for and what it does, or the history of it being used in engines over the years. The bottom line is this- Snake Oil won't make your cylinder walls round and scratch free, and won't bring tension back to your rings. Oil additives damage your catilytic converters, get trapeed in your filter, which then goes to bypass, which means taht your now are pumping unfiltered oil through your bearings, so not only is your top end bad, but so is the lower end. Rebuilds don't come in a can... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BarracudaBlueXJ Posted March 3, 2007 Share Posted March 3, 2007 Mine was so bad I gave up trying to cure it and ended up adding a catch bottle to collect the oil. This was the first one: But I found I needed to upgrade it slightly: It's an incredibly common problem with Jeep engines. Sometimes the simple things can cure it, sometimes you just need to work around it. Jeep on! --Pete[/img] i tried putting a catch bottle on my four cylinder to help the blow by issue yesterday. did you put some sort of vent in your bottle? cause after a short trip down the road i noticed it smelled like i was burnin oil. i popped the hood and noticed it was now pushing oil out of my oil fill cap. so for now i put a hole in the top of my bottle for a vent. the only problem with this is that it pushes what seems to be oil smoke out of my vent now, so it smells like i am burning oil. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 3, 2007 Share Posted March 3, 2007 Your engine is pushing gasses out the top, not just oil. My truck has a hose running to the catch bottle, and then a hose running out of the catch bottle. If you route this exit hose back to your air cleaner, your engine will then continue to burn those gasses like it's supposed to and the container will catch most of the oily residue. Otherwise those smelly gasses will just be vented into your engine compartment and stink up the place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketwheels Posted March 3, 2007 Share Posted March 3, 2007 ....I have to agree with comanchedude, if the rings are heavy worn "Restore" will do what he says, will not bother sending units and doesn't clog the filter. You will have to use it every oil change as it only last 3-4 thousand mile. I have driven many 60's and 70's fords that have been worn slap out and the stuff made a drastic improvement every time. I would say I have used it in at least 20 vehicles since the product was put on the market and never had any problems with it. I used to work in a parts store years ago and agree that most of it is snake oil, but not that one! 3 things I believe in "Restore" , "Lucas 80w Racing Oil" and "Bars Leak Original", kept many a dying Ford on the road for years .... PS, never put it in a VW flat 4 as it will increase the cylinders compression to the point it will damage the engine. AFTER BLOWING UP 2 BUGS THE SAME WAY,I'D SAY THE STUFF DOES WHAT IT SAYS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 I use restore on older motors. It got rid of the clickety clack of my lifters in my '87 after I switched to NAPA 15W40 synthetic oil a few months ago. I prefer oils with zinc in them to make the cyls slipperier and cut down friction (Delo USED to have zinc. The new stuff has 80% of the zinc removed for ULSD engines) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BarracudaBlueXJ Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 here are some pics of my oil catch bottle that i made for my four cylinder. i put a second hose on that runs back to the air cleaner and it now works properly. thanks guys! IMG][/img] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BarracudaBlueXJ Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 here is the other one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketwheels Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 ...thats a good looking "rig" you have created, are you sure you didn't work for Ford engineering backin the 70's?.....they really loved using coffee/bean cans for everything !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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