Cooter

Hmmm, Chewy the offical NAXJA MWC 'U-boat' captain. That is an 'earned' snorkel. That is from the Badlands. Pete didn't you guys run the tubes at ComancheFest? GLJT's Summerbash- always a good time. :popcorn:

They came in 2wd Comanches- heck, I have one here right now that came out of a 2wd.

The cover will only say when the cover was made. Pretty sure there should be a B.O.M. on it, but I have never checked.

In any racing effort there are plenty of spares, including spare vehicles, heck, I wouldn't doubt that there were over ten overall for a 2 vehicle team. But Chrysler Historic could certainly pay to have the number "restored" on the tailgate to match the rest of the truck.

I find it interesting that is is numbered 33 on the front and side, but 31 on the back....

Can a mod move this to PirateJr, please? :D Get a non disco D30 out of an '86 XJ with the fulltime case- instant 4.10s in most cases. The 2.8 leaks enough oil that rust insn't an issue. ;) Then swap everything from the knuckles out from your rig. (Now is a good time for new ball joints, BTW) Swap in a LockRight or Aussie, pocket the $300-$400 you save and call it done. :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

...and I live about 3 miles sw. :brows:

D44s will live with 38s, just have to be smart and pick lines correctly. I know of several friends with D44s and 38" Boggers witout issues. (Either locked or spooled) Run a 38.5x11.00 Bogger, or 18x12.50 Swamper TSL

Stauns are legal, and about $160/set. I tested a set before they were sold here. Clicky for thread I have been running weldons since '02 on my DD with absolutely no issues at all. The main reason I run them is because I found my tires slipping on the beads when I would climb sheer rock faces. If the Jeep pitched a tire off the rim in this situation, I would have ended up with an end over end rollover. (Not something I look forward to) As for price, I have done several sets for myself and others, and the cost is $250 or less total. You already have the wheels, so there is no extra cost there, and cheap steelies can be found for $50 or less for a set if you are running aluminum wheels. I say do it- the people telling you not to don't appear to have actually run DIY beadlocks. As for a CO2 tank, tell that to the guys who have run The Cliffs without beadlocks (Including the Ultimate Adventure)- there is no way to reseat a bead when you have 10lbs of mud in it. There were 4 lost beads on trail #12 alone.

You can find them with many other common gear ratios. D44 v. 8.8 is much more fun than something as ambigous as how much is a D44 worth :banana: I'll buy that for a dollar. :chillin: If you're staying with 4.10s it may be a decent swap, if you're going lower, then it is all a wash. I get my 8.8s for the same price as my D44s, and I still prefer the D44. (Actually, I prefer the 8 3/4, but that is a whole 'nother story)

The rear needs to be narrowed on the long side the center the diff, and the front needs to be centered on the short side to move the diff out of the oil pan. (The diffs are barely offset, just enough to cause trouble) The YJ under the sami in this pic has 404s under it- they haven't been narrowed, and the diff "clearanced" the oil pan even SOA with RE springs. Trust me, Mogs are a PITA to swap. (I plan on swapping some soon to my CJ6, but I expect it to be a PITA)

Still have to discuss the tubes in the axle housing. also- I have sold over 25 XJ/MJ D44s, and about 12 8.8s. Whenever I go to the JY I see about 10% of the 8.8s with broken axleshafts. I have yet to see a broken D44 shaft in the JY. Torque in a fixture isn't real world. (And I highly doubt the 28 spline would have a real world torque rating over a D44)

Are you getting them narrowed? If not, I forsee some oilpan clearance issues. Also, the extra leverage from the portals will dictate a custom suspesion.

Because the MJ D44 is bolt in. Much stronger is highly debatable....

So- You're planning on a 8" lift in addition to the 5" the portals will give you??

They can be found for less, but they are worth about $300-$400

GM has a 5 on 4 3/4" lug pattern, so you can't use the rotors, and eldo calipers are notoriusly unreliable.

Check the rear- it may have an AMC M20 w/4.10s.

Front housing narrowing is cake. (well, cake and sweat) Here is an old write-up, I did one for my CJ6, and it really isn't rocket science. BB's writeup on a 1/2 ton Ford

Pretty sure it is the range fork or sector- some of the 2wd Low kits are supposed to give a true neutral, and those are the only pieces replaced in the kit.

Ditto on Eagle's reply- the YJ changed in '93/94 to a true neutral, but not sure on the XJ. If it does have a true neutral, then T-case in N, tranny in first- friction will still turn the tranny in neutral, and the AX15 doesn't oil well in neutral from what I have gathered. If it doesn't have a true neutral, same as above but drop the Front driveshaft- much less messy, and does the same thing as far as the front axle is concerend.

Kinda my feelings on it- when I upgrade, I will either go '60, or go portal. As far as the R&P, I have seen them fail on D60s and 14 bolts, usually with the guy saying "I just set it up, so I know it is OK"

Not very likely in a '90- my bet is on a D35

I have 3 different D30s under my rigs, and I haven't hurt a R&P or carrier yet. (Running 34x9.50 TSLs, 35x14.00 Boggers, and Q78 Swampers which are 35.5"x11 wide) I haven't even hurt a 297x joint yet, and I have been wheeling my TJ since 2001. You can get a HP non disco D30 dirty cheap, and it will bolt right in. You will get the same money out of it if you ever decide to sell...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the 8.8 have a cast steel center section? I know the Dana stuff is cast iron, but have heard otherwise on the 8.8...