90eliminator Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 sorry for this, I searched but to no avail....any tips before I dig into this beautiful way to spend a sat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 1. Disconnect battery ground cable, then drain cooling system. 2. Disconnect hoses from heater core. 3. If equipped with A/C, remove evaporator/blower housing as follows: a. Discharge A/C system, then disconnect hoses from expansion valve. b. Disconnect electrical connector and vent tube from blower motor. c. Remove console, if equipped. d. Remove lower instrument panel attaching screws, then the lower panel. e. Disconnect electrical connections from A/C relay, blower motor resistors and A/C thermostat. f. Disconnect vacuum hose from vacuum motor. g. Cut evaporator/blower housing to heater core housing retaining strap, then disconnect heater control cable. h. Pry retaining clip from rear of blower housing flange, then remove the three retaining screws. i. Working from engine compartment, remove evaporator/blower housing attaching nuts, then the evaporator drain tube, Figure 1. j. Remove right kick panel, then the instrument panel support bolt. k. Pull right side of dash outward, then rotate housing downward and towards rear of vehicle until studs clear dash panel. Remove housing from vehicle. 4. Remove heater core to housing retaining screws, then the heater core, Figure 2. 5. Reverse procedure to install. Figure 1 Figure 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver88 Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 I just did this job 4 weeks ago. Here are a few more tips. First off, I don't have AC. There are 5 studs in the back of the plastic air box that contains the core that go through the fire wall with 7/16( I think) nuts. The studs may turn out of the box, rather than the nut coming off of the stud. Take care when removing the dash and lifting it over the steering column so as to not crack the windshield :doh: . I found that the bolts holding the defroster manifold to the firewall had been overtightened somewhere along the line and the ears were broken. If you have anything else you want to do that requires pulling the dash, now is a good time to do it( if you can) before putting it back together. There is a thread on here somewhere with a step by step that I used as a guide. Also, you don't need to drain all the coolant, just the bottle and the lines to the heater. If your core leaks like mine did, it drained itself on the floor. Took me 6 hrs, taking lots of breaks as I was outside in 10 deg. weather. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratrapp Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 i've did mine twice.the first lasted 4 years and i just replaced it again 3 months ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 sorry for this, I searched but to no avail....any tips before I dig into this beautiful way to spend a sat. Oooo, that seems awfully close to breaking rule #2. :no: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1239&p=10174 Rule #2: Absolutely NO apologizing for asking questions!!! That is what we're here for, answering each others questions. There's no need to feel bad because you are unsure of something or if you couldn't find what you were looking for using the "search" feature. We all start at the bottom of the knowledge ladder and there's only one way to climb up. I encourage you to ask whatever is on your mind. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90eliminator Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share Posted February 1, 2009 sorry! just kidding.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armybmbsqd Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 I thought I remembered someone doing a heater core swap without discharging the AC. Anyone know if that's possible? I have already spent a ton of money getting my AC working and don't want to have to have it charged AGAIN. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garmj Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 Its not possable to do a heater core without discharging the A/C. (unless you use a chainsaw ) The entire A/C Heater case has to be removed to access the top cover which has to be removed to get to the heater core.If anyone replaces the heater core or evap core they should replace the other. The part is much cheaper than the labor to take it apart again.The life span of a chrysler design evap is only 4-5 years ,best to go on and replace it .Just did mine altho the A/C was cold on inspection a small leak was detected. Glad I did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armybmbsqd Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Thanks for the clarification. I'm not sure where I heard that but now I know it's not possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 I have my dash off right now waiting to pull my heater box and seal up some cold air leaks. I don't think I'm going to replace the heater core like I need to, but I was thinking I could give it a good acid flush.. Think muriatic acid would do the trick, without killing the core???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy in Maine Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 How about taking the heater core to a radiator shop? For cheap money they could have a look at it and see if it can indeed be salvaged. Have them pressure test it also. A new one is $65 at NAPA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garmj Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 don't even mess with an old heater core (unless you LIKE to tear the dash out ) A new one cost me $35.00 from a local jobber.Muriatic acid will eat up the solder joints and the copper, if you were going to have a leak itwill be sooner than later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver88 Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 don't even mess with an old heater core (unless you LIKE to tear the dash out ) A new one cost me $35.00 from a local jobber.Muriatic acid will eat up the solder joints and the copper, if you were going to have a leak itwill be sooner than later. :agree: $34.00 @ Pep Boys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy in Maine Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 Question.... Symptions...not much heat coming out of the heater, fan only comes on at the high setting and the fan motor sqeals like a bearing is going out. I also get some coolant drips on the evaporative canister and I replaced a few years ago the plastic reservoir and it looks like it is slightly dripping from the bottom of the reservoir return hose at the bottom of the reservoir. The temp gauge in the dash shows engine temps of about 200º. OK so I am fixing to remove the heater core figuring it is munged up. I bought a new one at NAPA along with a new blower motor. I stopped by the dealer and picked up a new thermostat and fan resister set up also. My hoses are crimped on at the heater valve and the heater fitting and I assume they are original to the beast. Also the reservoir hose is factory crimped on the return line and "T"s back into the engine cooling system. It is this return line pipe with the T in it that is the focus of my question. My Raytek thermometer gizmo leads me to think that the 2 metal pipes should also be replaced. The "heater valve" shows up on the NAPA site as BK 6601298 ~ $34 and is sort of a "T" fitting allowing coolant to both go to the reservoir and to the heater core along with a vacuum fitting, but they do not show a listing for the "T" metal pipe that draws coolant from the reservoir bottle and from the heater core back into the engine cooling system. All they show is a "heater fitting" 90º pipe with a 5/8" hose on one side and a 3/8" NPT thread (part number BK 6601549 ~ $11). I need the "T" pipe to allow the reservoir fluid to get back into the system. I have not yet tested the vacuum fitting on the heater valve with my hand vacuum pump to see if it actually holds a vacuum, but I can do that. This pipe going to the heater I show temps about 200º and comng back only about 100º so I think that they should probably be replaced while I am in there. The temp of the "heat" at the cabin is only about 75º. So my question is ...what exactly do I need to replace the rest of the system to 1) get heat and 2) stop the dripping. I want to fix it correctly. I will also be replacing the heater hoses at this opportunity. A part number would be great. I can try to take a picture of the return pipe a bit later if that would help. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 How about taking the heater core to a radiator shop? For cheap money they could have a look at it and see if it can indeed be salvaged. Have them pressure test it also. A new one is $65 at NAPA. A new one is $35 at Auto Zone -- with a lifetime warrantee. I just picked one up about an hour ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy in Maine Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 Well I just tested the heater control valve and it will hold a good vacuum. I also tested the vacuum line attached to it and it will hold 20" of vacuum when in the "heater off" position, so I don't think a vacuum leak is the problem. Water temp into the heater is about 185º and coming out is 125º. Air temp at the heater and defroster is 90º with the vacuum applied (was about 75º previously). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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