90eliminator

open radiator and open tank, moved the tank to the area next to the rad, where the airbox used to be, put a new air filter on it... so there was space for it.

did not burp the system....how do I do that....?

Well the system has been converted I think, the old radiator for a new one from a 97, new heater lines to the heater core, bypassing the control valve, but It now overheats. Do I need to change the coolant neck to a newer neck, or should I do simple things first like change the thermostat and then the water pump which is only a year old or so. The system slowly heats up, and then just continues till it overheats, never draws fluid from the overflow tank, and there is no heat when I turn the heat on. So my assumption is that coolant is not getting into the block at all? sound correct. Thanks for any advice!!

I am going to upgrade my cooling system to the open system, but should I flush the system before I do the switch, or just wait and do it after....opinions? Thanks

What is the best way to flush the system. My MJ also has brown coolant. I have a all new parts to upgrade to a open system. Can I just put a pressure washer into the inlet and fire away till the system come out with clean water....??? might try it tomorrow night, so if thats a bad idea...let me know..thanks

hey guys, got a 90 comanche...cranks cranks cranks, then starts and dies... it will continue to do this until the battery dies, or it just decides to stay running, no rhyme or reason... So whats the first thing you think of, CPS, replaced it, ok TPS, replaced that, no change, replaced the coil, again no change... I'm confused and now have dropped $150 into this thing that have made no difference, and the spousal unit is getting ticked off.... please does anyone have any ideas....thanks

mine stumbles all the time, at idle, and during acceleration. I have tried putting cleaners through with no difference... so my next step is to replace the injectors....so I figured I would upgrade them as I went... seen some 19lbs mustang injectors on ebay, just need to know if they would work....thanks

I did a quick search, but nothing that satisfies me completely. I have a stumbling HO 4.0 , Its in a dedicated Offroad Rig, so I would love to put some bigger injectors in it...but what exactly am I looking for. Any Ford ones that fit a 5.0? Do I have to worry about the connection, or any length, or even color? Thanks guys. Shawn

Hey guys, got a 90 eliminator...4.0 aw4, 231... It now cranks but does not run. I jumped in it to go to work the other day, and started it, back out of my driveway where it died, I pushed it back into my driveway and took the other truck...but whats up with this thing. It has done this before but it has always started back up. Any ideas on where to start. How do i check my Throttle sensor, or Crank sensor....thanks in Advance....

Hey guys, got laid off so the company truck went away, so the comanche is back up on the road. its a 90 4.0 aw4, 231 pretty much stock. Here are the two things its doing that I would love to fix. 1. heater fan is noisy, most likely needs a drop of oil or two, is there a location to oil them, or do i need to drill a hole to get oil in the mechanism....? 2. sometimes she doesnt like to start. ie: cranks over fine catches then when the idle is coming down, she stalls, then cranks again, idle drops till she stalls, this will happen three to five times, then she will stay running fine after that. Just somewhat embarrassing at a gas station, or maybe future jobsite. Any ideas on that one... thanks in advance.. Shawn

sorry man, if you look on the bright side, that plastic dash trim piece is replaceable... as well as it looks like they did not cut any wiring....so there is an extra bonus, they could have and really screwed you...still blows, but now you can upgrade....or use it as an excuse too.

Ok, the coolant bottle blew up, so I replaced it with one from Napa, but now the new coolant bottle is pushing coolant out the cap through the blow out valving built in. I noticed that the aux fan is not operational, need to fix that...but that should not it to overheat sitting at idle...should it. Also I guess I need to know what the next step is. Radiator, thermostat? thanks in advance

calipers are brand new....well from advanced auto parts...so I don't know? there released now... Is it just the calipers or is the master cylinder...I would assume that since both locked up that it was something in the master cylinder/ brake booster...???

went wheeling last weekend..my front brakes ended up locking up, both calipers were dragging and not releasing. What do I need to replace to fix this problem.... Should I do any upgrades at this point, Its a 92 xj with a 4.0 and it has an 8.8 rear end. so its disc disc. The truck was stopping fine before, but any upgrades would be much appreciated...thanks

So i just installed the sye on the np231, all went well I have a 6" lift.... but now I'm into the driveshaft problem...its a 92 xj with again 6" lift and an 8.8 rear... I've heard that I can reuse a front driveshaft from a xj/mj and have it lengthened... any problems with that...? or any other ideas out there....thanks y'all......

def. not a hack and tap, I believe it is a complete replacement shaft...

that I do not know....is there any sort of ID on it...?

Ok got a xj I'm working on, the transfer case that is on it has the original slip yoke, I have another transfer case that has a slip yoke eliminator kit installed. The spline count is different between the two. What is the best way to make this work for me... The original T-case has all electrical connections on it, and the T-case with the SYE kit has vacuum lines on it... if this makes a difference... I guess is it easier to change the input shaft or change the SYE kit over to the other case......thanks

power applied to it...This is a none power unit.... just a bolt in with the carrier..... I guess I could just drop the front driveshaft....and I will be towing with a 3/4 suburban..... thanks y'all

So I have a jeep xj, with a lunchbox locker in the front....can I flat tow this, or does it have to be on the towdolly...? any help would be much appreciated...thanks.....

this is good information....... thank you.....

I guess the power steering pump has shifted closer to the radiator...rather then closer to the engine.... and it bolts to the radiator side of the water pump...

Ok here goes.... serpentine belt let go.... Looks like it was close to original.... 4.0 174k on it.... so belt was on it for probably since 120k? guessing there.... so I had to use lots of wd-40 plus extra love to get the bolts loose... Ever since I put the belt back on it looks like the Power steering unit...Bracket and housing plus the pulley looks to be just a little out of line with the other pulleys... I have tried and tried to tweak the bracket and pull the housing back in line...but to no avail.... So then there is the squeal. It is loud at idle...and then louder and louder as you accelerate. I discovered today that when I push the belt toward the motor with a screwdriver (while the truck is running) the squeal goes away...so the pulley on the waterpump is causing the noise... Totally cleaned the pulley after I installed a new waterpump. Option A: shim the waterpump pulley out an 1/16" to 1/8th" to accommodate the wp problem... Option B: take it to a professional..... Option C: ???? please fill in the blanks... Thanks in Advance.....

driving down the road....headed home....and the truck just died, shifted into neutral and started it back up like normal... ran the rest of the way fine. It has done this once before. Any ideas....things to check.??? thanks

I guess first things first....Check your getting battery power at the starter... Check your ground as well.... power at the starter is good....then check the little wire to the starter....Then also the main fuse area....should be able to check in there as well.... best of luck....could be the dash (guage) fuse...could have blown at battery installation time, and also a bad connection...so you could very well be looking at two problems......