thejum57 Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 Wow !!! I got the right nut right off, then the left.... I got the wrench on it Image Not Found but couldn't turn it Image Not Found this side wouldn't even get on it, so a socket is out of the question Image Not Found the wrench fits this way, hummmm, I saw a post on the IFSJA a while back, and thought I'd try it Image Not Found Worked like a charm, getting it off, and back on. Still on the subject of who designed this thing, what genius decided to locate it directly above the fuse box. Of course it leaked fluid onto/into the box. Image Not Found Removal, cleaning (hopefully enough) then re-assembling this little sweetheart was REALLY fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 Welcome to MJ :cheers: It's a whole new learning experience :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 don't' forget to highlight the picture addresses and click the IMG tag above the text box. Otherwise your pictures won't show up. (I fixed the post for you this time) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Car RamRod Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 I used a crows foot socket to get mine off. It's a PITA, like your pictures show. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qui Gon-Jinn Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Just did this on my 87.. Best tip for cleaning the Fuse Block is to disconnect the battery.. put some paper towels on the floor board.. and spray the living daylights out of the fuse block with some contact cleaner that leaves no residue. let it dry.. do it in a well ventilated area.. make sure you let it dry though. I check mine daily for the last week and a half.. no leak.. no issues.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted November 14, 2008 Share Posted November 14, 2008 I use a socket on extension to get it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted November 14, 2008 Share Posted November 14, 2008 No trouble getting right on it with a socket......but then again 95+ dual diaphragm boosters rock! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redramman Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 Did not have too much trouble on the 1990 but I think the nut was on the inside of cab I remember holding the bolt head while Son took nut off with socket under dash.Replaced it before it leaked all over fuse block Just a few drips in boot. Removing the line first might help, the reservoir can be removed to get to the line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 If I remember right I used a few extensions on the inside and held a wrench on the engine side. Then reached around and took the bolt off standing either in front of the door or behind.. I do remember thinking it wasnt hard and I was surprised that I could do it like that.. It was fairly simple. Like my left hand was in the engine compartment and my right hand was under the steering wheel.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redramman Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 :agree: Good Idea for when nobody is around :agree: After looking at pictures again I notice that reservoir looks like it's not removable on that year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bermsurfer230 Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 :agree: I also did the wrench in right hand, reach over the door, socket with extension in left hand when I replaced my master this summer. PITA to clean the fuse box though! Sorry to get off topic, but my master seems to be leaky again...? Anyone ever had to replace a master after only 5-6 months?! Causing problems and shorts with the fuses again :headpop: Sorry, just wondering. BTW no serious offroading here. Just daily driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bn6339 Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 :agree: I also did the wrench in right hand, reach over the door, socket with extension in left hand when I replaced my master this summer. PITA to clean the fuse box though! Sorry to get off topic, but my master seems to be leaky again...? Anyone ever had to replace a master after only 5-6 months?! Causing problems and shorts with the fuses again :headpop: Sorry, just wondering. BTW no serious offroading here. Just daily driving. I have a 92 Comanche, which I think has a slightly different design (the bolts are vertically mounted.) I needed to replace the clutch, as the PO replaced the engine, but left.....the clutch.........while researching a replacement, I discovered TOO MANY people suffered the following issues: 1. POS internal slave design, requiring xfer case/trans (HEAVY items) removal for a "simple" release issue. 2. Immediate replacement parts failure (ie less than a year) of same. 3. High-priced dealer replacement parts, which seem the only ones which last long enough to sell said rig. (or convert to automatic) 4. Plastic hydraulic line which exhaust heat tends to soften after a few years. 5. Chryco's external slave setup, while better than the earlier internal design, still failed enough (more research) that I decided I wanted something almost bulletproof. Trying to find gears while city driving.....draw your own catastrophic picture! :eek: :oops: :mad: :help: Consequently, I researched the following items, which I am hoping (still on jackstands, waiting for some welding) will at least solve some issues. I modified the Comanche: 1. Converted to a 1994-newer external slave bellhousing and such (if you would like a basic parts list, I'm sure I can dig receipts out of the file) 2. Wilwood p/n 260-1304 3/4" dia master cylinder. 3. Braided steel hydraulic line. 4. Special 3/4 dia slave cylinder I found on another website. Now, my upgrade might be slight OVERKILL, since its 4x2 and for long road trips, but I see it as basic safety/insurance, since it probably won't fail when I need it. I am planning to post some pictures when I finish this project.....just need to figure how to resize and post, since I spend more time fixing vehicles than posting photos.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Sorry to get off topic, but my master seems to be leaky again...? Anyone ever had to replace a master after only 5-6 months?! Lots of people. Did you buy it at Auto Zone or Advance Auto? The prevailing wisdom is that aftermarket cluch masters ypically last about 6 months. This is one of those things where you should spend the dollars for a genuine Jeep part, or don't even bother doing the repair. I have no idea why an aftermarket won't last -- except that they are probably rebuilts rather than new, and honing them out probably leaves the bore too large to get a good seal on the wiper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bermsurfer230 Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Aaaahhh... Young grasshopper learning much from wise masters! :cheers: Ya, I got it from Autozone...Thought it was OEM cuz it matched the one I pulled off EXACTLY. The seal on "my" first one failed, and I figured, what the heck, got the new one here, just swap it all out, it'll be kosher! Guess the previous owner had the same problem...And didn'y go with original Jeep! Ha ha So how do I go about getting original Jeep, good quality master cyclinder? Again, sorry for the thread hi jack ;^) And thanks for extremely quick responses!!! So looking at my leaky master again this morning with a lil sunlight out, it's definetly leaking from the little black rubber o-ring that seals the rod thats connected the the clutch pedal (IDK what that rod is called?) but it's the exact same leak issue as before. So everybody needs to buy original Jeep!!! or just replace that o-ring everytime it leaks :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 OEM masters should be available at your local Jeep dealership. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 I find the aftermarket master cyls to be the same as dealer purchased ones. The main reasons for master cyl leaks is A: Wrong fluid (Only Castrol GTLMA in mine!) B: Clutch arm is bent so the pushrod is on an angle (went through 3 masters in a month till we figured that one out!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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