james750 Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 Going to the pick and pull this week to get a steering box (power steering if that matters) for the mj. I tried to tighten it last week and the adjustment screw bottomed out. How do I remove the steering box? is it just the three bolts on top of the box that I need to remove or is there something else to it? Thanks, James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 Pull the three that go through the frame right in front of the wheel, pull the DLE off the pitman arm, undo the two lines, and loosen the bolt for the coupler at the input end on the steering box. Don't do it in that order. Undo everything else before the frame bolts! Life will be easier... Although, you don't have to undo the lines if you take a hacksaw with you (my preferred method, normally they're seized and aren't worth the swearing). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
project88mj Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 sounds right to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 and DON'T take the bolts on top of the box off. you'll need a pickle fork and hammer, or a hammer and cro-bar to get the tie rod end off of it. grab the spacer between the box and frame rail as well. you may find that yours disintegrates when you remove it, so having a spare is a good thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 and DON'T take the bolts on top of the box off. CORRECT! You want to remove the steering box from the chassis -- that's the three bolts through the frame into the side of the box. The three bolts on top just open the box up to work on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 You want to remove the steering box from the chassis -- that's the three bolts through the frame into the side of the box. The three bolts on top just open the box up to work on it. and, in my opinion at least, if you ever need to work on your steering box, it's just time to replace it...cherokee and comanche steering boxes are EVERYWHERE and easy to replace. or you can upgrade to a durango steering box :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDXJ Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 you'll need a pickle fork and hammer, or a hammer and cro-bar to get the tie rod end off of it. If you don't have a pickle fork, take 2 hammers. Hold one on one side ot the pitman arm where tie rod end is and whack it on the other side with the other hammer. A few hits and it should pop off. Won't bugger up the rubber boot that way either.(Of course do this afetr removing the cotter pin and nut) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exjay33 Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Not sure what you want to spend but a reman at advanced auto is only 140.00 with your old one . Junk yard you might end up with the same problem. Just something to think about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 You want to remove the steering box from the chassis -- that's the three bolts through the frame into the side of the box. The three bolts on top just open the box up to work on it. and, in my opinion at least, if you ever need to work on your steering box, it's just time to replace it...cherokee and comanche steering boxes are EVERYWHERE and easy to replace. or you can upgrade to a durango steering box :D What Durango years fit?? Is there any mods that need to be done? I like to read a write-up if anyone knows of one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 this is a write-up from a TJ and i'm fairly sure that they bolt the same as an xj http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/forum.php?page=durango-ps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reson46 Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 this is a write-up from a TJ and i'm fairly sure that they bolt the same as an xjhttp://www.jeeps-offroad.com/forum.php?page=durango-ps I don't see where he mentions what year TJ he has. I know there were at least two different steering boxes with different bolt patterns used on TJs. Do you have any other info about this swap? Thanks, Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 A guy at NAXJA swapped a durango box into his XJ, but it appears that the photos are gone. :redX: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71626 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 no, i don't. the only thing i know is that they're supposed to use the standard 3-bolt mounting plate, and many people upgrade to them then crossdrill the output side so that they can add a power steering cooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reson46 Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Looks like the '98-'99 Durango boxes will work for XJs according to the NAXJA thread. That would mean they would also work for early TJs. I know at least '03 (maybe earlier) and later TJs use a different box with the top mounting bolt in a different location. I was able to find the pics missing from the NAXJA thread here. Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james750 Posted September 23, 2008 Author Share Posted September 23, 2008 now it is looking like I cannot make it out to the pick and pull this week, and I am a little worried b/c ever since I tightened the box (at least I don't think that this happened b4) I have been hearing a pop, or click noise when ever I start to turn left (just one click when the steering wheel is at about 10 degrees left) do I need to worry about this and should I quit driving it until I get a new box? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche87 Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Hey. How much different is the durago box different to the jeep box? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 now it is looking like I cannot make it out to the pick and pull this week, and I am a little worried b/c ever since I tightened the box (at least I don't think that this happened b4) I have been hearing a pop, or click noise when ever I start to turn left (just one click when the steering wheel is at about 10 degrees left) do I need to worry about this and should I quit driving it until I get a new box? Tightening a steering box is almost always a bad thing. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reson46 Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 Hey. How much different is the durago box different to the jeep box? Check out the thread on NAXJA. It is a very detailed write up about the differences and what needs to be done. I also posted a link to the pics that are missing from the NAXJA thread. A lot of good comparison pics between the Jeep and Durango steering boxes. Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james750 Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 now it is looking like I cannot make it out to the pick and pull this week, and I am a little worried b/c ever since I tightened the box (at least I don't think that this happened b4) I have been hearing a pop, or click noise when ever I start to turn left (just one click when the steering wheel is at about 10 degrees left) do I need to worry about this and should I quit driving it until I get a new box? Tightening a steering box is almost always a bad thing. :( Just to be clear, I meant to say that I adjusted the gear on the top as explained in a recent thread by jtdesigns. The screw bottomed out b4 the slack was adjusted out and I just reassembled it in the bottomed out position, and that was when the clicking started. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james750 Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 Is it the box binding up and should I just adjust it back a few turns for the time being or do I need to get a box b4 it can be driven again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Back off the adjusting screw maybe 1/4 turn and see if the click disappears. If so ... drive it and see if the steering is at all improved. When you adjusted it, you were careful to have the wheels pointed straight ahead, right? That is VERY important. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james750 Posted September 25, 2008 Author Share Posted September 25, 2008 Back off the adjusting screw maybe 1/4 turn and see if the click disappears. If so ... drive it and see if the steering is at all improved. When you adjusted it, you were careful to have the wheels pointed straight ahead, right? That is VERY important. Yes I was VERY careful to have the wheels facing forward. I noticed today that the noise goes away when the steering box is cool, its after about 10-15 minutes of driving when the noise becomes audible. I try adjusting it tomorrow after I get home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Check your fluid level? Maybe what you think is "clicking" is the pump cavitating (pumping air). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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